Steve
Posted a lot
Making progress in small, easy to handle chunks of awesome
Posts: 2,033
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Jan 10, 2011 14:28:54 GMT
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Jan 10, 2011 14:31:42 GMT
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one thing alsways makes pictures look more pro, getting the background out of focus, that involves playing with F numbers unless your camera has a "portrait" setting on it, that often does the same thing.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,924
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Jan 10, 2011 14:35:07 GMT
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I reckon one from this location..... But stand more to the rear of the car so the far is in the foreground, with the view of the road fading into the distance. Good start for shots though, as good as I can manage. Matt
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Copey
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,845
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Jan 10, 2011 14:36:11 GMT
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Last Edit: Jan 10, 2011 14:42:18 GMT by Copey
1990 Ford Sierra Sapphire GLSi with 2.0 Zetec 1985 Ford Capri 3.0 (was a 2.0 Laser originally)
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Jan 10, 2011 14:37:51 GMT
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Hey Dude,
2, 3, 5, 6, 7 & 8 are very good shots. Nice composition and you've used the location well.
As discussed last week, if you're still free later this week (probably Thurs) do you still fancy heading out for some shooting? I'm going to be stuck in today/tomorrow & probably Weds doing my end of year accounts, so will need to get out of the house for a break and the idea of heading out for that shoot will be perfect.
That's if you're still up for it of course?
I can show you some settings/tips that'll get you hooked on not relying on the full auto.....dead easy and you'll be wanting to get out more with the camera. Let me know if you still want to hed out?
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Jan 10, 2011 14:41:07 GMT
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I know nothing about cameras (I've tried, but it's too complicated), but it does look like the focus is out a bit. It looks like it's sort of in the middle of the scene, instead of in the foreground (the car). I've found manual focus is the best way of doing this. I think aperture has something to do with this as well? I haven't a clue.
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Jan 10, 2011 14:52:38 GMT
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Cheddar Gorge. There arent many better natural photo locations in the UK.
In Radstock you are 30mins away if that. Let me know if you come down, I'm based in Cheddar.
On the Mendips there are loads of spots, up above Blagdon and Chew Valley lakes is very good to.
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Last Edit: Jan 10, 2011 14:53:20 GMT by brettsri
87 Mk2 Cavalier SRi Turbo
89 Mk3 Cavalier SRi V6
90 Cartlon GSi3000 24v (Lotus Rep)
90 Senator CD 24v
99 Omega 3.0 MV6
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Jan 10, 2011 15:15:23 GMT
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They're all pretty good dude! I'd be happy with those. I've been having a go my self recently and it aint as easy as it looks! There is a good thread "teach me: Shooting a car" quite near the top, although i think it's page two now. I've found lots of good tips in there.
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Steve
Posted a lot
Making progress in small, easy to handle chunks of awesome
Posts: 2,033
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Jan 10, 2011 19:00:31 GMT
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Thanks for the feedback guys Bruce - I'm still up for that chap, thursday should be ok.
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Jan 10, 2011 19:27:07 GMT
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This is my fave. Composition is 99% of the effect. OK, maybe not, but it can make or break. In this shot you have an interesting composition and the background is slightly blurred. You can increase this effect by setting the lens to its widest aperture (the lowest F number) - you may need to tweak the focal length to get the best apperture for your shot. usually you find that this is at the least amount of "zoom". On your (borrowed) Canon you will need it in AV mode to do this. Pick the manual focus or set the camera so you can pick the focus point. Then focus on the part of the car which is closest. In this shot that would be the extreme left of the shot, probably on the bumper. Not sure how shallow depth of field you can get with that lens (it sounds like the one I have as my lit lens) but if you have access to a decent prime lens you could get that really sharp on the car, soft on the front wing and fully blurred on the background. Helps that you have something worth photographing there too...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 10, 2011 19:28:06 GMT
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Also: please crop or reize your photos to 800x600 or smaller for the forum... Also also: please put a space between each photo, makes them stand out better. Even better, some text explaining what the shot is.
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Last Edit: Jan 10, 2011 19:58:00 GMT by akku
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 10, 2011 20:05:52 GMT
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OK, I trust you'll forgive a little playing with your pics, in the name of constructive criticism. I thought this one was a good shot, very nearly, I like the way the car stands uneven , it looks like stored energy, like a tiger waiting to pounce... However, this nice composition can be improved a little. I prefer a close crop to the subject, so I have made the car as close to the edge of the frame as I think looks good. I have tweaked the light levels and such a little too. If I had photoshop or knew how to use Gimp or something I could doubtless make the background blurred using a post processing effect. But I don't so I didn't. I think you have maybe some camera shake here, the background is not properly focused but its not nicely blurred. If it were me I would shoot this at about 24mm and f2.8 (or wider, I think that's the limit on that kit lens though?) This should give a bit of blur to the background and this will make the car stand out more in the shot. I am not the best photog on here so maybe not the best to be saying, but that's how I'd go about that shot. All above intended in the constructive vein.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 10, 2011 21:52:39 GMT
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Had a bit of a play Steve, hope you don't mind.
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Steve
Posted a lot
Making progress in small, easy to handle chunks of awesome
Posts: 2,033
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Jan 10, 2011 22:03:14 GMT
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Course i don't mind Will thanks for improving it! Akku, all points taken on board dude. You are quite right when you mentioned camera shake, part of the reason ive never got into trying to take decent photo's and getting a proper camera of my own is simply down to me not having very steady hands never thought it would be worth spending out on decent gear when i'll never get a decent shot Steve
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Jan 10, 2011 22:16:09 GMT
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Cheddar Gorge. There arent many better natural photo locations in the UK. In Radstock you are 30mins away if that. Let me know if you come down, I'm based in Cheddar. On the Mendips there are loads of spots, up above Blagdon and Chew Valley lakes is very good to. couldn't aggree more about cheddar being great for pics taken with my fuji finepix S9500
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Jan 10, 2011 22:24:29 GMT
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me not having very steady hands One cheap answerAnd thisA less cheap answerIS will help a bit. Depends how shaky you are. Generally if you have shaky hands get the shutter speed up as quick as you can even if it means ratcheting up the ISO. A good SLR will support huge ISO numbers without appreciable noise. With shaky hands you need somewhere to balance the camera. Try tucking your elbows into your gut to make a kind of man-brace. Look for walls, posts, barriers, anything you can put the camera on. Use the timer if you are clumsy with the shutter button or get a remote button on a lead. The IR ones are a bit useless IMO as you have to be in front for it to "see" the remote. The one on a cable is much better.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 10, 2011 22:45:12 GMT
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17-85mm is IS It's only 0.5 f-stop 'slower' than the 18-55mm (f4.0 as opposed to f3.5) so there won't be a huge difference when wide open anyway. I think the biggest benefit will come from getting Steve into Aperture Priority - some of the shots above were taken at f7.1 & f8.0 which will not help A) to give the blur to the background which helps make the car stand out more and B) the shutter speed. Running around f8.0 will make the shutter speed 6 stops slower than running at f4.0 The shot taken at f8.0 has a shutter speed of 1/125. Open up to f4.0 and that takes the shutter speed to 1/500....4 times faster and therefore considerably less shake and much nicer background blur. Steve, PLEASE don't worry for one minute if all the comments I've made go straight over your head....I'll show you in the simplest most basic terms on Thursday how to get to grips with the camera. No jargon, no complication. Just simple techniques that will have you wanting to take more shots. Cheddar looks pretty good, just got to hope the pouring rain stops for a bit!
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Steve
Posted a lot
Making progress in small, easy to handle chunks of awesome
Posts: 2,033
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I think i understood some of that............ Cheddar could be on the cards then, could everyone pray for a dry day please ;D
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awoo
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,506
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if you have a bit of photoshop ability, you can bring the subject out by slightly changing the colours of the foreground/background. same as throwing the background out of focus only its more subtle. this is the only pic vaguely car related that i have which illustrates the point. note the flash on the gatso also adds to this in the same way but is a bit more obvious. in this the gatso, the cone and the temporary fence have been selected and made a touch greener. its really subtle though, so much so you can hardly see it but it makes a big difference.
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Cheddar Gorge. There arent many better natural photo locations in the UK. In Radstock you are 30mins away if that. Let me know if you come down, I'm based in Cheddar. On the Mendips there are loads of spots, up above Blagdon and Chew Valley lakes is very good to. Yep, up towards Mark, Green Ore, Priddy and Westbury-Sub-Mendip make for a lot of good autumnal shots Axbridge makes a good backdrop if you're willing to hold up traffic too --Phil
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