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Can't say i liked the idea, but he's usually got the best ideas! If DIY approach is easy enough i'll try find some big drop springs if they can be found or venture into the world of cut springs!
They are XR4i ones on at mo and XR4i's front ends are a lot heavier than mine so they are probably quite stiff springs.
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts
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Ooooh yes I remember them in the 1980's ! Along with the coil raisers
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Hitting with the stick?BenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Next question: how easy is a DIY lowering job do you need spring compressors or summat? And has anyone heard of clamps to keep on the spring to keep it lower? My mechanic mentioned em to hold the 3 door down a bit... Yeah you'll need a set of spring compressors - NEVER cut them in-situ when they're under load. I've heard of people losing fingers doing it that way. Rmad compressed the springs on Wagoneers Volvo but didn't take the springs out - this is safe as long as the part you're cutting isn't under load. Personally I'd prefer to take them out completely and stick em in a vice, but maybe sometimes it isn't that easy... Those spring clamps are lethal IMO - if one lets go when you're cornering "enthusiastically" it could be very nasty!
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Like an Eastenders crash stunt i'd imagine! On the search for -70 to -100 springs then...
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts
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The spring clamps that Rmad and I used to compress the springs as we cut them were superb. They have locking clamps to grip the spring and were about £25 from a shop advertising on Ebay. Always make sure that the spring is well secured before cutting. We had to chop the springs into little bits to get the cut sections off as we did the fronts in situ, I removed the rears and did those in a vice.
Check the link earlier in the thread to the show and tell on how we did it.
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Peugeot 307sw - Suzuki SV650S - MX5.
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Cutting springs in situ isn't the recommended method even when the part to be cut isn't under load. Wagoneer and I felt comfortable doing it after plenty thought and planning and I'm sure we'll do it again...but I have to say that doing the job on a bench or in a vice is the right way. If Sir Scrapingscrap was here that's what he'd be saying and he doesn't have 'scraping' in his name for nothing you know.
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If Sir Scrapingscrap was here that's what he'd be saying and he doesn't have 'scraping' in his name for nothing you know. I'm looking forward to seeing him doing this soon on my yellow 240K, once he's back from holiday. As it's unlikely I'll be doing anything useful at this time (other than looking gormless and vaguely nervous) I will at least try to get some pic's. Was there an answer to the question about reshaping the spring end?
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The end of the spring should be the same shape as before the cutting if it's meant to sit in the original seat.
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paul4be
Part of things
'86 Capri Laser, Frontera 4x4
Posts: 395
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It will depend on the spring seat as to whether you need to create another dead coilor not. As I understand it from other boards, Volvo's in particular don't need it, and can be cut and left (bourne out by Wagoneer's experiance). If it does have to be done, you would only need to heat part of the end coil, which would not be enough to affect the temper of the spring steel in the rest of the spring. All cars are different, but lots won't need an new dead coil forming.
Reanimation, standard XR4 springs are rated at about 100lb, standard Cossie springs are about 140lb (well the 4x4 ones are).
If you drop your Sierra to far, you will have real issues with camber angles at the a r s e end and it will handle really badly. May look good but will be utter sh*te to drive.
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Last Edit: May 9, 2006 17:57:50 GMT by paul4be
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I've been trying to avoid mentioning this because I can't remember the physics involved, but a spring mounted in a non-vertical plane (as in an independent system) will actually have it's effective rate reduced due to fulcrum/lever/geometry type changes, I'm sorry but at the moment I can't tell you more (except I found out after creating a very bouncy death trap when I chopped the springs on a Viva once!).
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Reanimation, standard XR4 springs are rated at about 100lb, standard Cossie springs are about 140lb (well the 4x4 ones are). If you drop your Sierra to far, you will have real issues with camber angles at the a r s e end and it will handle really badly. May look good but will be utter sh*te to drive. Thanks paul4be, I have heard this a lot and i'm aiming just to lower the front slightly less than the rear which sits perfectly on cossie springs and shocks. I don't really understand what the ratings 100lb and 140lb mean, doeas 140 mean its designed to accept more weight than the 100 or the opposite? The front end is so light i think is one prob. Alloy engine, Cossie gearbox, no PAS, no other toys, and limited trim etc. In theory i'd expect Non V6 Sierra springs at -40 to do the trick. Sorry to clog the thread but this might get things sorted. thanks.
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts
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paul4be
Part of things
'86 Capri Laser, Frontera 4x4
Posts: 395
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A 140lb spring is 40% stiffer than a 100lb spring. This means a stiffer spring. It also means if both springs are the same free length, the front of your car would sit higher with 140lb springs instead of the 100lb springs. You'd be best off buying proper lowering springs for a "normal" Sierra 2wd. Cossie springs seem to be about 1" lower than normal Sierra springs, as you found with the rears. Sierra springs are dead cheap, and often crop up on Ebay.
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Cheers, These I bought off the bay to lower my Sapph, They are PI springs -25, i was tempted to put the fronts in but worried it wouldn't lower it enough. if -25 isn't enough i'll look for -40's for a non sporty model sierra as you suggest.
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts
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