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OK, sorry. I really hate having to make a thread like this.
1996 Peugeot 106 1.5d TUD5 engine.
Won't start.
it is positively not battery (changed to known good one and hooked up to the 'jump starting tractors' battery for added ampz)
it is not glow plugs (one was bad, now changed to 4 new ones)
fuel appears to be getting through - disconnecting the injector pipes, and cranking over, pushes a small amount of fuel through into a collector tub. TBH I expected more would come through, but the car does 70mpg so I suppose it doesn't really need very much!
The stop solenoid was changed 2-3 months ago so that's OK
The starter motor is working OK
It sounds as though it's trying to start, been at it all afternoon and sometimes it has momentarily started but then cut right off again.
This is the same whehter throttle is applied or not.
It isn't spinning over fast enough to sound like it has lost compression.
It drove in to the spot where it is sitting on Sunday. It has been used daily for a year with no issues (apart from aforementioned stop solenoid) so it does work...
I can't figure out out to get the injectors out to test them as they have a couple of extra pipes sticking out of them and can't see how they are removed, but I'm kind of down to that as the only remaining failure point, as, although I don't know diesels well, I think all they need is compression, fuel and heat. It has the heat for definite, compression sounds good, fuel I thought was OK but it's the most likely option...
HELP!
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V-Force
Part of things
I like Hondas.
Posts: 846
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Glowplugs?
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1999 Impreza WRX typeR STI Version 5 Limited
1999 Civic VTi-S Aerodeck
2005 Bora TDI daily
Several other 90s Hondas (shhh they're sleeping)
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Have you had injector pipes off any where ? If so then you'll need to bleed them, pretty sure you will find a back rubber bulb on the feed line, crack the bleed nipple where the ine goes into the pump and gently squeeze until you get no air then re-tighten the nipple.
Next crack a couple of injector unions, 1/4 turn max and give her a crank. If it sounds better then tighten them and do the same for the other 2. Now it should go !
Easy start is a good diagnostic tool, if it runs on that (for a few seconds) then you'll be sure there is nothing majorly wrong, after that look to sort the fuel side, then plugs
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'A' series trigger wheels and sensor brackets, 205 GTi radiator brackets, general fabrication and machining - www.gsmotorsport.net |
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I'd guess at an air leak in the fuel supply.
I'd change the fuel filter and bleed it, then crank the life out of it.
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It could well still be the stop solenoid, just because it's new it doesn't mean it's not faulty. Sometimes swarf from a worn pump can make the solenoid get stuck which may have been why the original one failed. Take out the stop solenoid, remove the spring/plunger from it and refit the main body. If it the engine now starts you've diagnosed it, but you'll need to stall the engine to stop it!
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ruffgeezer
Posted a lot
Attracts french tat.
Posts: 1,252
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Get the valve clearances checked, these are prone to the gaps closing up and the valves being held open slightly, this causes a drop in compression and makes it a slag to start. Actually, second thought, did you slam the door or bonnet when it was last parked? Have a look under the bonnet for the fuel cut off button, just push down on the centre of it and if it clicks, its been tripped somehow.  Hope that helps. |
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Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
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This sounds familiar :-(
Mine was either a weal fuel pump or a split line...ran fine when you used a piece of hose into a fuel container in the engine bay.
but its not the diesel gelling is it? Its bloody cold out at mo...
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5th line in OP  Have you had injector pipes off any where ? If so then you'll need to bleed them, pretty sure you will find a back rubber bulb on the feed line, crack the bleed nipple where the ine goes into the pump and gently squeeze until you get no air then re-tighten the nipple. Next crack a couple of injector unions, 1/4 turn max and give her a crank. If it sounds better then tighten them and do the same for the other 2. Now it should go ! Easy start is a good diagnostic tool, if it runs on that (for a few seconds) then you'll be sure there is nothing majorly wrong, after that look to sort the fuel side, then plugs I would agree with you there, but there is no bleed pump on it at all. I did the usual alternative of cranking until i flattened a 760CCA 4x4 battery and still no change. If I spray in easy start, it catches, give a really laboured rotation, almost starts, and then falls away to very slow rotations or stops trying to turn. Turn the ignition again a second later and it's back to normal. I'd guess at an air leak in the fuel supply. I'd change the fuel filter and bleed it, then crank the life out of it. Been cranking away after tightening up the fuel filter housing. Fuels getting through so filter OK for now, although needs a service soon! It could well still be the stop solenoid, just because it's new it doesn't mean it's not faulty. Sometimes swarf from a worn pump can make the solenoid get stuck which may have been why the original one failed. Take out the stop solenoid, remove the spring/plunger from it and refit the main body. If it the engine now starts you've diagnosed it, but you'll need to stall the engine to stop it! That's true. Took it out and did this but no change at all... Get the valve clearances checked, these are prone to the gaps closing up and the valves being held open slightly, this causes a drop in compression and makes it a slag to start. Actually, second thought, did you slam the door or bonnet when it was last parked? Have a look under the bonnet for the fuel cut off button, just push down on the centre of it and if it clicks, its been tripped somehow. Hope that helps. A very good call, except the cut-off on this is deep in the scuttle and it wasn't knocked (I checked to be sure!) I've taken the rocker cover off now as the valves is one I was recommended yesterday as well, but can't for the life of me see any valves. Maybe it's all the oil around the cam that's obscuring them! This sounds familiar :-( Mine was either a weal fuel pump or a split line...ran fine when you used a piece of hose into a fuel container in the engine bay. but its not the diesel gelling is it? Its bloody cold out at mo... Nah, the diesel isn't gelling. Hope it's not the pump. There is fuel getting through to the injectors but I don't know if it's enough. The BMW diesels are both still running fine so it isn't the actual fuel gelling. can that happen out of the blue? |
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Fresh glowplugs are one thing, glowing glowplugs are the other. Do they actually glow? And is the fuel system self-venting? I'd guess it is - but you never know  [edit] Are glowplugs with the correct lenght fitted? |
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Fresh glowplugs are one thing, glowing glowplugs are the other. Do they actually glow? And is the fuel system self-venting? I'd guess it is - but you never know [edit] Are glowplugs with the correct lenght fitted? Checked for glow, of the same size and even brand as the originals... |
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if the pump is belt driven its quite common, it can jump a tooth especially if its forcing against thicker colder diesel. Is there some white smoke coming out of the exhaust?
Head gasket went on a mates 106 1.5D and it would not start for love nor money with that blown gasket.
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if the pump is belt driven its quite common, it can jump a tooth especially if its forcing against thicker colder diesel. Is there some white smoke coming out of the exhaust? Head gasket went on a mates 106 1.5D and it would not start for love nor money with that blown gasket. There's nothing coming out the exhaust - it won't run. Headgasket is fine - It has never lost any oil or water in the time we've had it and it hasn't started now. .. |
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his didnt lose any water or oil either, went between 2 cylinders and wouldnt let it start at all! If there is nothing at all coming out of the exhaust it isnt getting enough diesel. Even a diesel that wont run will give white smoke not clouds of it but definately white smoke
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frozen coolant? jammed water pump/belt jumped?
Also i heard the valves receed on these too.
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69 Plymouth Fury Convertible
75 Range Rover 2 door
82 Range Rover 4 door
84 Range Rover 4 door
78 Datsun 120Y 2 door
78 Datsun 120Y Coupe
78 Datsun 620 Pickup
81 Datsun Urvan E23
86 Datsun Vanette van
98 Electric Citroen Berlingo
00 Electric Peugeot Partner
02 Electric Citroen Berlingo
76 Honda C50
04 Berlingo Multispace petrol
07 Land Rover 130
15 Nissan E-NV200
15 Fiat Ducato
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his didnt lose any water or oil either, went between 2 cylinders and wouldnt let it start at all! If there is nothing at all coming out of the exhaust it isnt getting enough diesel. Even a diesel that wont run will give white smoke not clouds of it but definately white smoke Fair enough. I've no compression tester for a derv so can't say with any authority that the HG is OK but it does sound alright (had many a failed HG in my day  ). I'm also thinking it's not enough derv getting through. I think it's off to the mechanic next as I can't bench test a pump and I hate working on diesels. frozen coolant? jammed water pump/belt jumped? Also I heard the valves receed on these too. Coolant hasn't frozen but I guess it could have jumped. Valves are likely though, and it's either that or the pump as far as I can make out after a second day bent double working on it. Time to call in the pros. |
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ruffgeezer
Posted a lot
Attracts french tat.
Posts: 1,252
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The valves are shimmed on these, it is a pain in the  to adjust them with the cam in but certainly possible, the first step is to check them before discounting them though! |
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Try it with a squirt of WD40 rather than easy start some engines just will NOT ever start on ether, old Mercs, Sierra/ Peugeot 504 for example. A good tow start may help.....
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Just another thought could it be gassed up? Burning rag down the inlet manifold (not if its plastic) whilst spinning it over may help
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Aug 23, 2021 18:29:00 GMT
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Found out on mine that it was
1 - the glow plug wiring chain had rotted, leaving on all glow plugs not enough current. Made a new one - 1.4D can flatten and use 15mm copper pipe drilled accordingly, for 1.5D use 3mm copper solar panel cable and copper eyelet soldered and crimped, cheaper than the £15+ for a new one.
2 - does the heater circuit cut in and out - light on dash and audible clicks. 1.4D uses a different heater charger to 1.5D so get the right one.
You can feel if air is in the latter part of the diesel circuit from squeezing the primer bulb until firm before cranking/turnover. Finally check the glowplugs for wetting - if wet either the heating circuit ineffective or injector pintles have blocked. If your head gasket has blown it will still start, just sound bad. Drove mine from Bristol to Plymouth.
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