Russ
Part of things
Posts: 372
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Shame it's not sorted It sounds like timing to me, if if backfiring and as no power. If it was too rich, the engine note will go deeper and lumpy and it'll start to bog down. I've found the best setting for the carbs on these bikes is to find the right size main jet, then set the needle to the lowest notch (richest setting). As for timing set it to about 1.5mm - 2.0mm BTDC and the points gap 0.16 - 0.18", seems to be the best setting for puch/tomos's
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As a bench mark. My timing is set a tiny bit advanced of dead centre, Only around 0.5 /1.0 mm from stock. Seems to work realy well. Might be worth checking it hasnt slipped right round when they were messing with it.
As for pinking, If it still hasnt gone away after all this faff, Double up on base gaskets for the cylinder. Supposedly some of these K star kits suffer from bad port timing...
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Cheers fellas, I'll have a look at the timing tomorrow - I think the fueling is wrong too as it bogs down a bit on wide open throttle but it's very missy and gutless!
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Fungus
Part of things
Posts: 960
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As russ said, adjust the needle. Needle controls most throttle openings between full or shut, so usually curse word running can be fixed by this. Richening should really help. Main jet controls full throttle, so try doing a plug chop after opening it up to dermine wether you need bigger or smaller
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Last Edit: Jun 7, 2011 22:28:00 GMT by Fungus
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Cheers fellas, I'll have a look at the timing tomorrow - I think the fueling is wrong too as it bogs down a bit on wide open throttle but it's very missy and gutless! Probably the same problem i had with the 17mm carb. Float set too high. Not letting enough fuel in so its burning fumes.
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Well, rubbish. I've abandoned it since I picked it up out of pure frustration. Since getting it from the MoT garage the flywheel has been stiff to turn, idle rubbish, running worse and starting nigh on impossible. Then the points gap closed over... So I took the flywheel off and could see where it had been touching one of the ignition plates don't know why, garage clearly ripped me off big time and screwed the bike up. I lightly sanded the inner magnets until it span freely and the gap between the flywheel and inner parts was about equal all round and it spins ok now. However, I'm struggling to get the points to open. It's funny as every manual and every corner of the internet relatin to puch maxis (and my manual) say 'spin the flywheel until the points open and then set with a feeler' except my points don't open, so this information is entirely irrelevant! "Not to worry, turn the flywheel so that the cam in it's centre is lining up to the arm on the points and then set it so that the arm is touching the cam, then adjust it accurately with feeler" you may quite rightly assume....... You may have gathered from my sarcastic tone that this is yielding no results Ridiculous and highly frustrating. Got the day off today so may look again later but my eye hurts so might sack it off.
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Jun 28, 2011 20:16:15 GMT
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Ok guys, I'm in need of some help. I've wracked my brains and looked at this from every angle but unless the mechanical and logical part of my mind has completely gone wrong I have a fundamental problem with the moped. The points WILL NOT open. I'm quite happy for someone to say 'you idiot you've done (X) wrong' and I hope this happens as it's driving mr slightly insane! Here are some pictures of my points and of the cam on the back of the flywheel: Can any moped experts here tell me if anything looks wrong? I can only presume maybe the points are incorrect or something? I just don't know Consider::: If the flywheel is removed, points screw loosened, points body turned fully clockwise until it can move no more screw retightened and the flywheel replaced - surely - this would mean that the points arm would be as close as possible to the cam and therefore definitely open (albeit too far) when the flywheel is replaced and then turned.... As this results in nothing. I think I can't see the wood for the trees here If you can - imagine you are explaining this to a 4 year old girl as this moped seems to have turned my brains into mush
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Russ
Part of things
Posts: 372
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Jun 28, 2011 20:52:55 GMT
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I think i might know the problem your having, i had a FS1-E a few years back which ran like wibblepoo, turned out the timing was wrong, after about 2 weeks i finally discovered how to set the timing. I've done the timing like this on my Tomos and it runs spot on. Put the flywheel back on with the nut, tighten it up etc, then set it to TDC. You should be able to see the points through the cut out and the gap will be closed. Now undo the points screw abit and make sure you're still at TDC. Now using the screwdriver, push the end against this bit i've arrowed: Doing this will make the points open. So now make them open and hold it there, then get a .016" feeler gauge and put it in the points gap, whilst still holding the points apart with the screwdriver. Now loosen your grip a bit on the screwdriver, so the points grab on the feeler gauge slightly, then tighten up the points screw. Now when you pull out the feeler gauge, the points should still be apart and be at the set gap. It might sound a bit awkward but once you know how to do this, you'll be doing it for fun
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Jun 28, 2011 21:13:46 GMT
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see that bit you've arrowed? I believe there is supposed to be a bit sticking up above it to 'twist' the screw driver off but I think mine has been snapped off.. can't imagine this matters though? thanks for the explanation dude - Ive left it for the night but will look again tomorrow. The points obviously being on a spring just as soon as the feeler guage is out even when the screw is tightened they just snap back closed, what fundamentally stupid thing am I doing??? cheers matey
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Russ
Part of things
Posts: 372
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Jun 28, 2011 21:42:56 GMT
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The points of my Tomos are exactly the same, so i just put the screwdriver in the groove and use it to open them.
When you set the gap at TDC, the Cam on the flywheel will hold the points open and they'll open and close as the flywheel turns then.
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Jun 28, 2011 22:20:52 GMT
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Well thats the theory I've been working with and why I'm banging my head against a brick wall trying to see why that's not happening! I'll be honest I haven't held pressure with the screwdriver whilst using the guage and tightening the screw, I've just got TDC then pushed them clockwise as far as poss and then inserted guage and tightened but soon as I remove the guages they close again. Must be due to the lack of putting pressure on it. Much easier in a car engine!!! Thanks again though mate
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curse word dude , Hadnt noticed the new problems I cant see any problems looking at the pics though. And as you said if you push the points as far up as they will go they SHOULD work. The only thing i can think is the problem is. The screw not holding the points in place once you tighten them down?
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Jun 29, 2011 19:19:43 GMT
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I know. It's really frustrating! Certainly doesn't look like they arent holding. It doesn't help that the little nubbin has snapped that helps to put pressure on it but still. Anyone wanna swap for a 125cc bike? Gonna tackle it again tomorrow - I am so desperate to use it
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G A R'goyle
Part of things
Bad to the bones Senior citzien
Posts: 115
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Jun 29, 2011 20:44:15 GMT
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The screws for anchor plate and points have they been changed? My maxi had Ph 2 (now insex) heads there, take them out and check length & put washer under the anchor ones, its also a good idea to check so no cables are jammed between plate & engine. If you look to the right of Russ arrow you see two slots on other side of screw, put a flat blade screwdriver in them to adjust points I see three black cables in pic, are two of them connected to - on coil? The points are bended, round contact edges should be even (?) Don't forget to oil felt pad and put a small dab of thermo Resistance grease on the Bakelite part on points
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Russ
Part of things
Posts: 372
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Jun 29, 2011 21:22:20 GMT
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Been thinking about this again today, so i took the flywheel off the Tomos and tried to replicate what you've done.
I set the points all the way clockwise, tightened the screw, put the flywheel back on and the points would NOT open. Tried this again, points fully clockwise, still won't open.
Then i undone the points screw, set them to .016" doing the method i said, and they open and close fine.
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Jun 30, 2011 22:32:29 GMT
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A good update!! ;D Me and my mate spent a good hour playin with the ignition system, the points were very tricky to hold in the correct position due to the snapped nubbin so took 3 hands and some frustration but got there in the end. A quick set of the timing roughly in the middle as suggested and a push start up the road and SHE RAN! Took it to out for some testing and it was so much smoother with no back firing at all and pretty quick too - he clocked me at 45mph (dial said 35) but it still didn't like 1/2 to full throttle. Played with the idle screw a bit but couldn't get much more from it in terms of full throttle, it'd just bog down big time.. So headed home and whizzed the carb top off, it was on the 2nd notch so put it on the top one and fitted it back together. Fired it up and put it on the stand and played with the idle screw a bit - seemed good so took of out for a blast! Full throttle worked ;D in fact the throttle seemed ok right through the range but it was noticeable at first that although it didn't bog down at full throttle anymore, it wasn't as powerful at full, as it was 10mm before... I did a lot of miles to tonight riding about till sunset and it was great fun, it also seemed to gradually improve, with full throttle becoming more responsive. Sometimes it was quicker than others which is odd, at one point it felt very quick indeed but as soon as I stopped after that it cut out. Started first time though, so all is not quite perfect but it's mostly there, hence the confidence to keep riding One thing that worryingly manifested itself though was yet another bodge by the spanner that ripped me off, I glanced at the speedo and noticed the light seemed a bit wobbly - then saw that the two chromed bolts for the forks had wound right out!! I slowed right down and tip toed home... Had a quick look, tried to wind the bolt in but there appears to be no thread for it to catch as if something has fallen down the forks. Sooooooo.... Think I need to strip the forks and reassemble with better washers - I may also chop and weld the stabiliser. But all in all...
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Last Edit: Jul 1, 2011 19:00:52 GMT by rmad
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Russ
Part of things
Posts: 372
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Well done! ;D
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woooooooooo hooooooooo. Was only thinking about this yesterday while i was at work... Still couldnt get my head round it lol. Well done dude. Gotta be more than a nice feeling
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dungbug
Posted a lot
'Ooligan!
Posts: 2,852
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Well done dude. ;D ;D ;D
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Past: 13 VW Beetles from 1967 - 1974 Bay Window Campers (1973 & 1974) Mini's (1992 Cooper lookalike & 1984 '25 Anniversary) MK2 Polo Coupe S (1984 & 1986) MK2 Polo Breadvan (1981 & 1984) MK4 Escort (1989) MK2 Granada Based Hearse (seriously) Fiat Uno 60S (1986) Punto 60S (1998) Cinq (1997) 1998 Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat 2003 Ford KA
Current: 2004 Ford Focus (barely alive)
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Cheers fellas
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