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mellon farmer.
I got about 25 miles out from home in the Moose-tang and it started cutting out again. Nutsacks. On the return run I got 20 miles before the problem reappears.
So lets start from the top and think this one through:
I have replaced the coil, condensor, rotor arm, distributor cap. The car had fresh HT leads not long before I bought it. I don't think its ignition.
But... rolling along at a steady 3000 RPM and it starts cutting out. RPM drops to 2500 and picks up to 3000 again if I feather the gas then get back on it. Then it cuts again with increasing frequency until it becomes undrivable and which point I stop at the side of the road and the car idles normally.
If will idle normally for a good while.
If you try drive away then it gets 100 yards and then starts cutting out badly again.
If you turn the motor off and leave it to cool for a couple of minutes it will carry on driving just fine. For a while.
Its not as bad as it was when I was limping the poor thing home.
But I suspect its going to get worse.
I've been driving it to work all week without issue.
So I'm thinking either something in the ignition is degenerating, and killing the coil and/or condensor (ballast resistor maybe?)
Or I was barking up the wrong tree with it being an igntion fault. I'm begining to think it reminds me of a couple of fueling faults I had in the past
In which case why did refreshing the ignition fix it for a while? Fuel related faults seem to take longer to "recover" themselves...
I'm starting to talk myself into it being a ballast resistor fault. Assuming the Moose has a ballast resistor...
I'm also thinking dirt in the carb or fuel tank would behave something like this way and that the electricals may be coincidence?
I'm thinking of another poke at the ignition, I also could also strip and clean the carb, install a fuel filter and replace the petrol pump. But I don't like just changing parts randomly hoping the best.
Suggestions on a post card to the usual address...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Cologne V6 cutting out...Davenger
@dminifreak
Club Retro Rides Member 140
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Well there isn't much left to change. What condition are the wires to the coil in? Could it be a faulty ignition switch? Could the earth strap be at fault?
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i'd blow an airline down the fuel pipe the wrong way and make sure the carb is clean internally, try a motorbike tank gravity feeding the carb through a new bit of fuel pipe to elliminate everything from the carb backwards.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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the battery wire to the coil is part of the loom and hard to see. The coil to distributor wire has been replaced as it comes in the kit with the condensor.
Not sure how a faulty igniton switch would manifest this way? All the rest of the electrics stay on OK.
Earth strap has probably been painted blue. I'll check it.
I'll clean the fuel system though anyway.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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will
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,023
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Maybe they forgot to mask the filler hole when doing that blue spray job I'm thinking fuel too, we had a SJ jeep doing similar stuff and ended up running it with the popup method above. Of course this made it run out of juice on the regular usually in the middle of a big mud hole ;D
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ezzysi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,189
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Running a wire from coil straight to battery would eliminate coil wiring / ignition switch
That said we had something similar on a mk1 golf with a rusty filler neck that sucked up crud from the tank to the internal pick-up filter, it would start fine then start spluttering after 15-20 mins.
Good luck.
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1991 Mk2 Golf Gti 8v 2005 Passat tdi (daily) 1971 Mk1 Escort 2004 Touran (her's)
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Cologne V6 cutting out...10mpg
@10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member 204
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Arsebiscuits. I don't think it's fuel firstly that carb is new/rebuilt less than 1000 miles ago admittedly a few years back but nevertheless.. Also the symptoms don't sound like carb problems in any way. It could 'just about ' be a fuel pump problem but that's pretty easy to check.. I did do a bit of wiring on this car, the wiring the garage who restored it did was absolutely amazingly dreadful so I went through and checked everything that looked like it had been messed with and redid it so it was at least safe.. This was the sort of thing i found.. The engine earth strap was just a heavy gauge bare wire wrapped round a bolt, (yes really) so I crimped an end on it and bolted it on somewhere (passenger side cylinder head/alternator mount iirc) might be worth checking it again, as I had the manifolds/alternator of many times trying to find the elusive exhaust blow, might have not nipped it up enough. I'm wondering if, seeing as it starts so well, that you might have got a 12v (unballasted) feed going to a 9v (ballasted) coil this will give you a lovely big spark and great sparking/starting but after a while the coil will over-heat and die, so your new 'premium' coil might have stood up to being overpowered for a week but now is understandably throwing it's toys out of the pram, grab a multimeter and see what voltage you have at the coil, this might well be your problem.. I think it's a bad week for yank rides, this has been my afternoon...
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Last Edit: Nov 6, 2010 22:12:23 GMT by 10mpg
The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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If its got a ballasted coil and you power it direct from the battery for any length of time you'll knacker the coil, it should only get 12v while cranking.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Cologne V6 cutting out...10mpg
@10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member 204
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Last Edit: Nov 6, 2010 22:15:07 GMT by 10mpg
The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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lol, i had coil issues on my '74 benz, turned out mercs first go at Efi in a production car required them to fit an 18v coil, i went through all my spare 12v coils at the rate of one every couple of hundred miles before i gave in and bought a 60 quid merc one and saw it said 18v on the side. :S
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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dizzy's on these old girls can curse word out. is it electronic ignition or points ? i could send you a dizzy and an ignition module to test if you want i have a few knocking about
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Cologne V6 cutting out...10mpg
@10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member 204
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It's point's, might be worth checking the dwell time as well AK, as that's what effects how long the coil is charged for each spark..
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The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,236
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Cologne V6 cutting out...ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Are you coming up in this tomorrow Al?
I can bring the Dwell meter along if you wish...
I reckon it's an ignition issue. Do you still have the old condensor, and also the old rotor arm. Are the rotor arms solid or resistor items? You can make them solid with some coat hanger and solder (no joke, it worked for me on the Beetle when that car had me tearing my hair out).
Another thing is, what voltage/spec is the old coil and what should the car have on it?
Failing that, I guess the wiring would be the second place to check. You could wire in a direct feed from the battery as suggested but you would need to check that you have an unballasted coil.
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Last Edit: Nov 6, 2010 23:12:03 GMT by ChasR
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is the coil staying hot ?
I had a similar problem with a 2.8 cologne in my old granada - coil was staying very hot (no idea why) changed the coil and everything was fine
edit: just had another thought
what carb is it?
not a solex is it?
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Last Edit: Nov 6, 2010 23:13:22 GMT by Autofive
Someone just shot the elephant in the room.
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Uh, condensor?
You told me this is a 1976 motor in the 1974 body, complete with Ford Duraspark ignition. There is no such thing as a condensor used with Duraspark. It either runs Duraspark, or it runs points/condensor. Not both.
Sounds like fuel pump, fuel dirt, or bad Duraspark box.
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Team Blitz Ford Capri parts worldwide: Restoration, Road, or Race. Used, Repro, and NOS, ranging from scabby to perfect. Itching your Capri jones since 1979! Buy, sell, trade. www.teamblitz.com blitz@teamblitz.com
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checked my stock and i have a choice of Bosch or motorcraft dizzy both with duraspark boxes let me know if ya need one
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Cologne V6 cutting out...10mpg
@10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member 204
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it's supposed to be 76 motor (info from previous owner of a decade or so), but I guess it had the original 74 ancillaries fitted to it for ease of wiring/plumbing..
That's my take on it anyway...
I'm 'pretty sure' it has points..
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Last Edit: Nov 7, 2010 8:37:45 GMT by 10mpg
The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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It has points. It has a Bosch distributor. It has a "solid" rotor arm.
I replaced the condenser a week ago and threw the old one away. I also chucked the old coil. I have a dwell meter here thanks to Lizardking. Carb is probably a Motorcraft one. Its different to the UK Cologne one. I think!
I'm off to check everything again. I'm keen on the idea that the coil is now getting 12V not 9V. That makes sense to my rather electrically-simple brain.
Will feed back on what I find, assuming I find anything....
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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These things got a cutout valve of any kind in the carb? Ive had this sorta trouble in the past with dubs , Where the winding gets a bit lazy and slowley closes the valve up and shuts off fuel. Wait a while for the winding to cool down and itll be fine for a while again.
Easy fix is to take it out of the carb body and put a bolt in instead (sealed) and see if the probelm continues... Might find itll run on a bit tho when hot without it....
Also try driving it with the fuel cap cracked open a tiny bit... Could be blocked breather?
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Chops
Club Retro Rides Member
Don't touch me I've been somewhere
Posts: 460
Club RR Member Number: 36
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Cologne V6 cutting out...Chops
@exodore
Club Retro Rides Member 36
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Sounds like fuel starvation to me. I'd check the tank breather, fuel filter and carb inlet filter if it has one. Also check the fuel line for dents etc, I had the same symtoms on a Dodge truck and found that the steel fuel line had been flattened after going over a rock.
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