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well, the coil -ve to centre is "less than 20" (10.3) when read off Lizardking's meter which is correct. It reckons that =ve to centre 1-3 "is good reading for a ballasted coil" but I get 10.3 again. I have 11.3 V coming in on the =Ve and 7.9 - 8.5V on the -ve side so I guess the ballast resistor is working. Points are changed, gapped right and dwell angle is 33* which is close to the 35* the book says. I checked the various earths, there were two connected up to painted metal so I took them to bare. The distributor was making a real squeaky horrid noise, will append a video later with sound, but oiling it seems to have cured that. The timing was off the scale. I've reset that to 12* BTDC and backed the idle speed down as this picked it up to about 1300 RPM with the vacuum advance connected. Interestingly before there was no difference between idle speed in gear and idle in neutral and now there is (as there should be in an auto). Idle in drive is 700 and idle in neutral about 950. I've only done a short test run but it seems to drive a little crisper now. Mind you, I think that every time I have a tinker with it. We'll see how it runs on a longer run when I get chance. I'm waiting in for someone who was supposed to be here ages ago to pick up some wheels and looks like a no show so I might go give it a run. EDIT: here's the noisy distributor:
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Last Edit: Nov 7, 2010 16:00:09 GMT by akku
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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I have to say that it sounds like fuel starvation (or vaourisation) to me - especially the way that it will idle happily but not pull away. I had a similar thing happen on my car, which turned out to be an intermittant blockage above the float needle valve, meaning that sometimes it would be fine for a week and at other times you could only drive it half a mile.
I'd check the tank breather, fuel lines and carb for blockages and dirt, and the fuel pump for proper operation.
I'm intrigued about the 7.5v reading on the -ve (Contact breaker) side of the coil - that should be very nearly zero. The voltage readings for a ballasted system (from the chassis earth, with the ignition on but the engine stationary and the points closed and conducting) should be something like:
Battery +ve: 12.5-13V Coil +ve: 8.5-9.5V (if the same as the battery, then the system is not ballasted) Coil -ve: ~0.5V (lower = better)
It's probably worth checking that the rotor arm isn't shorting to ground when it's hot - next time the problem occurs stop the engine but leave the ingition on, take the dizzy cap off, hold the king lead just above the rotor arm's contact (w/insulated pliers) and open the points (with an insulated screwdriver). You should not see a spark from the king lead to the rotor - if you do then the rotor is shorted to ground, and you won't get a spark at the plugs.
Condensorshave been known to fail soon after replacement - some modern production items are of fairly poor quality.
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Cheers. I don't "get" electrickery no matter how many times it id explained to me.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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My readings were taken with the motor idling as suggested in the meter manual.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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OK........... and so............ how's it running now? Assume the wheel appointment failed/succeeded by now and you've had a scoot about. Still faltering? Or all cleared up?
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Team Blitz Ford Capri parts worldwide: Restoration, Road, or Race. Used, Repro, and NOS, ranging from scabby to perfect. Itching your Capri jones since 1979! Buy, sell, trade. www.teamblitz.com blitz@teamblitz.com
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It's tricky to say as I thought it was fixed last time. It commuted happily all week. It has commuted hapily today.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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OK, could be you got it with the combo of timing changes and refreshing parts.
Or.... dirt in the fuel system sloshes around and exposes/blocks the pick-up tube on/off, as it decides.
I'd install a clear glass fuel filter for a while to monitor for presence of junk in the trunk for a while. I'd change the Holley/Weber fuel inlet filter as well.
Carry a tire inflator in the boot in case you need to blow out the fuel lines from pump to tank by side of road. The pumps can go flaky from old age or blockage, working just enough one day borderline, then underperforming the next.
If you ever care to convert the dizzy to electronic, I have a kit for the 1974-spec Bosch in that M2, same one as my Capri clientele use. Have pumps to hand here as well. And the inlet filter, heck, even whole carbs, should any of that be dif to get locally for you. No hard sale. Just resource-rich here for that particular engine lump...
Hope it needs nothing more. But I would install a clear filter, so's you can see if dirt is being thrust up in signif quantity from the tank.
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Team Blitz Ford Capri parts worldwide: Restoration, Road, or Race. Used, Repro, and NOS, ranging from scabby to perfect. Itching your Capri jones since 1979! Buy, sell, trade. www.teamblitz.com blitz@teamblitz.com
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My readings were taken with the motor idling as suggested in the meter manual. I did wonder. I suspect you do have a ballast resistor, since the +ve coil terminal is below battery voltage. Hmm. 33 degrees of dwell on a 6 cylinder engine means that the coil is on for 55% of the time. When it's on it should see about 9v due to the drop in the ballast resistor, and when it's off it should see about 13.8v, as there will be no voltage drop across the resistor when no current flows through it. (9v * 0.55) + (13.8v * 0.45) = 11.16V, which isn't far off from your measured 11.3. I think the car does have a ballast system, and that it's putting out about the right number of volts. As such, I tend to think that it's not the coil that's the issue. Norm speaks sense - a clear fuel filter would make a lot of sense, as you could tell if there was dirt (and also if there's fuel flowing). I doubt that the tiny in-line plastic ones from Halfords would flow enough, but IIRC they do do a larger one that would work. BTW - is it a mechanical or an electric pump on these? If electric is it a rotary type or a reciprocating type?
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Last Edit: Nov 8, 2010 17:44:12 GMT by jrevillug
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The original pumps are mechanical, via push-rod.
Yes, it's a ballasted ignition. It would be well that AK check to verify he bought a coil which is ballast-compatible. Bosch makes this notation on the bottom of their coils.
If it's a RogWatto email special, heaven forfend what was sent. Hopefully a ballast-compat coil.
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Team Blitz Ford Capri parts worldwide: Restoration, Road, or Race. Used, Repro, and NOS, ranging from scabby to perfect. Itching your Capri jones since 1979! Buy, sell, trade. www.teamblitz.com blitz@teamblitz.com
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Hmm. 33 degrees of dwell on a 6 cylinder engine means that the coil is on for 55% of the time. When it's on it should see about 9v due to the drop in the ballast resistor, and when it's off it should see about 13.8v, as there will be no voltage drop across the resistor when no current flows through it. (9v * 0.55) + (13.8v * 0.45) = 11.16V, which isn't far off from your measured 11.3. I think the car does have a ballast system, and that it's putting out about the right number of volts. As such, I tend to think that it's not the coil that's the issue. I have no idea what you just said! LOL. There be maths and all sorts. Blimey. Yeah, a Halfords "large" clear filter is on the cards. Its only 104 BHP so I don't think its going to restrict anything... Even their regular one should flow enough for it. I might whack another fuel pump on it for a chuckle, a chum has a few cologne bits if he has a fuel pump I might as well. I assume its same as Euro one.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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ezzysi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,189
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1991 Mk2 Golf Gti 8v 2005 Passat tdi (daily) 1971 Mk1 Escort 2004 Touran (her's)
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cheers, probably save me a trip to chavland. Althought I might have one kicking about in the garage, I think I have one from the Lexus or Saab or something I never got round to fitting.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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104 bhp? shiiiiit, just bin the whole lot and drop a UK cologne in there with all its ignition bits, you'll gain an instant 40% power increase.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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I would if I had one handy.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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mr
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,580
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i had the same trouble on my 2.8 v6. my car started,ran......for a bit,stuttered......died.....waited and itd restart. a mate told me to drop the tank and remove the filter from the pipe that draws the petrol up from the tank. the bit that lifts out the tank. problem solved. the filter is a tiny little gauze tube. pull it off and stick a clear filer up the front. youll see any rubbish coming through then. my tanks had rust and stuff in it but after a dozen filter changes I'm all good. filters with clear sides are only 3 quid from hafords.
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Got the car from 105 bhp at the crank to 152 at the wheels.nitrous going on next.....if it ain't broke,keep bolting on go faster parts until it is........ www.fordgranadaclubuk.freefo.de
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Bigging Up The Sum Sum Man Since '99
Posts: 2,664
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Runs curse word when hot, better when you let it cool and seemingly better in the colder weather?
Have we checked for Fuel boiling? Is the carb sitting above the exhaust manifold, or are any of the fuel lines close to it or near the block etc?
I had it on something before, I forget what now, but I had to fit a heat shield between the carb and manifold and re-route the fuel lines...
Worth a check?
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