1985 Dutton Phaeton Series 3 1300GT-Back from a rest

Back in 1980 my cousin made one of these out of his written off Mark1 Capri.

Update -

Took it around corner to Spicers garage who laughed at the previous place's excuse of not fitting on ramps and pointed out their MOT tester is massive so likely couldn't fit in car (once he said this it made sense of some of the mutterings from the garage guys so think is fairly close to truth).

The guy at Spicers seemed way better, clarified the mirror questions off the cuff and even drove me back to original garage to collect my car, using the Dutton and making sure he drove loudly past original garage to rub it in, beeping the horn that the original garage "couldn't find".

We explained to Spicers that the handbrake needed doing. They said would sort.

Saturday tested the car (fitted on ramps) and said would need rear brakes, a split gaiter I missed and a headlight bulb for the re-test. We OKd the headllight and gaiter which they quoted for asked for quote for brakes.

Now Monday morning they ring and have said they can't get parts (?!) so we need to come take it away! They've done neither gaiter nor the headlight (not bothered about light mind) which is annoying since we'd OKd these.

Anyway we picked up and took back to mine.

First job was the gaiter on steering rack. After some more advice off here I split the ball joint off the arm, painted the nut to ensure went on in same location and disambled the arm to swap the gaiter over.

Managed to get a universal gaiter from Motoserv that did the job.


That was one part of MOT issue sorted, Dan managed to steal the headlight from my MGB to get a working main beam (sealed units at presents). Will order upgraded H4 units off ebay I think.

Job 3 was the handbrake. Could not get the drums off. Removed the retaining screw but there was no additional threaded hole to push the drum off like I've normally used. Tried quite a lot of banging but to no avail.

Was getting late by then so adjusted the cable up on the pull rod into back of the drum as much as possible and handbrake does now work a bit but can still push the car along with handbrake on although not easy. Not sure enough to gain an MOT pass.

Will fit new shoes when they arrive (ordered off ebay). Had to get shows for the Mk2 1300 Sport and non-sport since not sure what axle we have.

Whilst under I managed to rotate a few of the exhaust clamps around to provide better ground clearance as was the lowest point.

Booking car in for MOT Monday in anticipation of brake shoes arriving. Will be attacking drums to get them off.

Things learnt about car in process:
Axle is leaf spring with approx 1.5" lowering blocks hence why it doesn't have the 4x4 stance of some Duttons.
Front and rear shocks are Koni. Front seem to be adjustable, will get photo up.
Wheels at rear are on 2cm spacers.
Car was originally green with white/beige stripe down middle.

To get the drum off you'll probably have to back off the adjusters, and then wiggle the drum side to side to get the (probable) wear ridge past the shoes.

I wouldn't lever against the backplate - it's easy to bend it.

The small square device is the starter solenoid. That big red lead in from the right is probably the main feed from the battery and the smaller one from the same terminal will be taking a live feed off to the rest of the car/fuse box. One of the smaller wires is the "signal" one that comes from the ignition switch so that when you turn the key it operates the solenoid.

A dynamo won't charge at low rpm and will put out less amps than even a basic alternator. If the car isn't loaded with electronic gizmos and you will be using for any distance other than short trips ever day in traffic in the winter when its raining and you've got everything on then a dynamo will cope absolutely fine. I wouldn't bother replacing it with an alternator unless it is either broken or the use you make of the car requires it.

Thanks cleared that up. The big one is indeed from battery and the smaller one as you say disappears in direction of fuse box at any rate. I thought solenoid were part of the starter motor though, making it engage and then pop out, how does this perform that function when remote? Or am I being 'fick? Even my MGB has 'normal' electrics.

The car has very few electrical gizmo, rubbish lights, no reverse light, wipers that are no use anyway, no stereo and not even a ciggy socket to power a sat nav so demand is low. Will be fitting isolator for battery to stop it running down and car will be used for track days and the odd Sunday blast, all depends what the weather is like!

I have a few spare alternators so might look at it later as you suggest.

Thanks for advice, possibly means the brake shoe's I've bought are no use as Mk2!

Funny how the car is built from an Escort that had it been left alone would be worth umpteen times more than this.

On later cars you are right about the starter solenoid but this will have a bendix type starter. The solenoid you have is simply a device that switches the high current wiring using a low current input. It is a solenoid in that there is a plunger inside which when activated moves to connect the battery terminal to the starter terminal

The starter pinion is a free fit on a helix. When the starter suddenly starts spinning the pinion flies up the helix to engage with the flywheel ring gear. As soon as the engine starts it flicks the pinion back down the helix. You can see the helix between the body of the motor and the pinion here.



The later "pre engaged" starters you are used to are mechanically a bit more sympathetic as they push the pinion forwards into mesh with the ring gear before spinning it.

Seth, thanks for further clarification, so solenoid is basically big mechanical relay to use low current to control high current device then, simples!

This car really is a learning experience.

Since Mk1 Escort are from Jan 1968–Nov 1974 there is a chance the donor is pre 1 January 1973 for historic tax I guess. Have looked around and found:
"The Dutton Owners Club is now an approved vehicle club for the purposes of the V765 scheme set up by the DVLA. For anybody who is not aware the V765 scheme is the form used to apply for the reclamation of an original registration mark. This means that Mark Young, our membership secretary, can countersign and approve or refuse applications made under the above scheme regarding Duttons. This does not mean that any Dutton that has never been registered can now avoid the SVA.

It does, however, give the potential for a car that has been on the road but has lost its identity to have that identity or an equal age related plate assigned to it, providing that it meets a list of criteria and suitable evidence is available."

Anyone any experience of this? Having looked at the V765 form it seems to only mention return of original plate not equivalent other age related one. If still able may get either free tax or black and silver plates!

I hate drum brakes, but i have only experience with cable operated ones, lot's of stretch in them cables, cable operated disc brakes are even worse! so you should be fine with hydraulic drums.