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Sept 13, 2010 20:22:47 GMT
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Heres another of my current ponderages.. I couldnt for the life of me get the intercooler pipework, airfilter and pipework, wider rad and cooling pipes to sit in the bay alongside the battery in its current location so Ive succumbed to moving it to the boot. I have an old pair of jump leads so I was thinking of running the positive one down the prop tunnel (in the car under the centre console) to the battery in the boot - would this cable suffice? Its not as thick as the ones that its going to be linked to, I have about 5 cables on my positive terminal at the moment two of them nice and fat. I'm presuming that as the charge will be flowing down the slightly thinner jump lead cable first before it gets to the fatter ones it shouldn't cause problem? Is that right? Will I just need to get a very hefty gauge neg wire that comes off the neg terminal and bolts straight to the chassis? And pull an earth off the engine straight to chassis at the other end? Also what safety measurements do I need to ensure when fitting the batt in the boot? Obviously securely bolted down but anything else? Cheers retro ears  |
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Sept 13, 2010 20:28:31 GMT
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Why not strip a cable out of an e34 Bimmer down the scrappy? Or a Rover P6 if you can find one. Just the job, and they'll come with a battery terminal connector attached.  |
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Sept 13, 2010 20:44:04 GMT
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Oh yeah e34s are the rear battery ones aren't they? Good idea! I'll have a scout about the scrappies or see if any are breaking on the bay - ta dude  |
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Sept 13, 2010 20:49:27 GMT
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I'd avoid using a jump lead unless you're going to use really beefy decent ones, in which case you might as well get the right cable for the job.
You might want to consider fitting a battery cut-off switch (rally style) in the boot. If things do go pear-shaped and you get a short circuit, there's an awful lot of energy in a car battery and it doesn't take much of a short to generate a lot of heat and ultimately a fire.
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Sept 13, 2010 20:54:25 GMT
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E class Mercs had the battery in the boot as well.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Sept 13, 2010 20:55:01 GMT
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Ok, jumplead idea binned! How can I safely try to prevent a a short circuit?
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Sept 13, 2010 20:59:35 GMT
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500amp circuit breaker right near the battery?
oops, to big, petrol cars usually draw between 150-200 amps on the starter motor apparently, so maybe a 250amp one?
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Sept 13, 2010 21:14:44 GMT
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Six-cylinder E36 3-series have the battery in the boot as well; if you find one in the scrappy, make sure you get all of the lead from battery to engine bay as it's in two parts.
Usually has a nice terminal block in the engine bay with extra holes to mount ICE off.
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Chops
Club Retro Rides Member
Don't touch me I've been somewhere
Posts: 454
Club RR Member Number: 36
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Sept 13, 2010 21:34:55 GMT
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I use a 150amp "rally" type switch (big red plastic key) on my E32 and it works fine. Another source for cable is welding supplies or any van/small truck with a tail lift or tipper. If you use jump leads, use both cables for the live to reduce the resistance and a standard earth lead straight to the body. BTW E32 BMW's also have the battery under the rear seat (Rob0r is breaking one now I think) |
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Mark
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,097
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Sept 13, 2010 21:51:32 GMT
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E39 also has battery in boot!
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Hitch
Part of things
Posts: 427
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Sept 13, 2010 21:59:38 GMT
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Mine was done using a beemer cable and a mk6 escort battery tray to bolt the battery in. Cost about a fiver all in from a local scrappy. ;D
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Sept 14, 2010 0:17:07 GMT
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i used welder cable & original tray welded in the boot.
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theres more to life than mpg & to much power is just enough.
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Sept 14, 2010 0:44:14 GMT
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Oh yeah e34s are the rear battery ones aren't they? Good idea! I'll have a scout about the scrappies or see if any are breaking on the bay - ta dude Don't ask anyone to take it out, do it yourself. It takes about a year to get it all out, no breaker would do that if they were right in the head  |
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Graham
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,282
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Sept 14, 2010 7:49:42 GMT
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when i done my 105e i went to the local tail lift repair people and got some of there cable out of the skip they seem to chuck loads of it away it was well up to the job from the boot to the from and it was free |
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Maximum signature image height: 80 pixels
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Sept 14, 2010 10:56:44 GMT
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ONe thing to bear in mind is the hydrogen gas from the battery. in an engine bay it is well vented but the boot space is part of the interor. not sure how factory cars vent , i know some batteries have a pipe connection but I don't know if they use this on BMW etc.
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69 Plymouth Fury Convertible 75 Range Rover 2 door 82 Range Rover 4 door
84 Range Rover 4 door 78 Datsun 120Y 2 door 78 Datsun 120Y Coupe
78 Datsun 620 Pickup 81 Datsun Urvan E23 86 Datsun Vanette van
98 Electric Citroen Berlingo 00 Electric Peugeot Partner 02 Electric Citroen Berlingo 76 Honda C50
04 Berlingo Multispace petrol 07 Land Rover 130 15 Nissan E-NV200 15 Fiat Ducato
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Sept 14, 2010 12:11:16 GMT
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Hmmm.. the hydrogen is a bit of a worry tbh!  I'll have to have a think about that.. What ampage/rating welding cable should I go for? Bearing in mind I like to over engineer ;D |
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Sept 14, 2010 12:28:07 GMT
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If you use cable to thick the resistance goes up (the energy required to "push" the electricty along the cable) and you'll see a drop in power at the other end so don't over engineer to much.
you'll want the battery in a box in the boot, a plastic tool box will do if you don't want to buy a proper one, you just need to run a vent pipe to outside the car.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Sept 14, 2010 12:30:52 GMT
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Oh right... Whats the best compromise do you think? It'll be travelling down this wire then joining into a few thickish cables
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Sept 14, 2010 12:49:11 GMT
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Several things to consider - firstly, the cable from the battery to the point at which the "thickish" (I'm supposing starter, alternator et al.) wires bolt onto it must be capable of supplying current equivalent to all of the cables attached to it plus an extra amount determined by the resistance added due to cable length from the boot to the engine bay. Specification for resistance per foot of a given wire gauge is easily available on t'interwebz with minimal google-fu.
Circuit breakers are not required... just fuse everything appropriately and fit the battery in a fibreglass box bolted to the boot floor to prevent the possiblity of it bouncing around and hitting the bodywork. Venting any gasses from the battery needs to be looked into.
The advice mentioned above is, as far as I have bothered to think about it... completely incorrect... you want a nice thick cable... a cable that is too thick (there is no such thing) will not increase resistance.
The plain and simple method is as already mentioned... steal an existing system from a bmw or similar as this will easily be the cheapest, and you will get a proper engine bay battery connector.
Best of luck, any other questions and I'll be happy to help.
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- '80 Mk1 Vauxhall Cavalier Saloon, 3.0l 12v... in progress with some special plans ahead
- '94 106 Rallye, Endurance Rally Car
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Sept 14, 2010 13:03:25 GMT
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I'll have to have a think about that.. 
