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I have rebuilt my CA18DET with ground and polished crank, ACL race bearings, oil pump, water pump, cam belt and tensioners, piston rings, head gasket and new head bolts.. I'm getting loads of conflicting advice on how to 'break it in' some say go really easy with no load for 1000 miles using mineral oil with 3 changes in the 1000 miles. Others say that the'breaking in' period refers manily to seating the piston rings and that the first 20 miles are the most important and you have to ensure a good engine. Here is a page Ive been directed to; www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htmJust getting a few different opinions and I'm a bit confused.
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I recently did my engine (a -series) and with that the rings bed in from at least 50-100 miles, in that time you need to load them enough so they bed correctly. Using running in oil.
Put in cheepo oil, start engine, get it upto temp and bed the cam in (On a a-series anyway) and then drop the oil, change oil filter and fill with running in oil.
First 100 miles half throttle max 4k revs max. don't granny drive or the rings wont bed so give it some gas and also let the engine decelerate so it gets a vaccum load. This should get the rings bedded in correctly.
Upto 500 miles try not to use motorways or have long periods of constant speed and revs.
After 500 miles change the oil and drive it but don't thrash it around till at least 1000 miles.
Thats how i did mine and its running well still.
My friend did it a bit different, drove hard down to shakespeare country raceway (180 miles on a roads) then raced it down the strip after changing the running in oil. He also had no problems with running it in that way.
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The tolerances on modern stuff is much better than it was years ago, running in is far less important these days, all i ever do is drive reasonably gentley for 2 or 300 miles, make sure you use varying road and engine speeds and avoid labouring the engine to much, do a couple of oil changes in that milage and then just proceed as normal.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Jun 21, 2010 10:09:38 GMT
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we used to have a sticker on the landie that said
Running out you really better pass
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Last Edit: Jun 21, 2010 10:09:55 GMT by pauldaf44
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Jun 21, 2010 11:09:33 GMT
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I saw one on the back of a Corvette - "Running in - keep up if you can!". He was doing what I'd probably do - giving it plenty of loud pedal, building up lots of pressure to seat the rings and bed them and the cylinder walls in properly, but not loading the engine or labouring it, just letting it accelerate freely.
You've got very little time to get a good seal, and if you don't, you'll potentially forever be stuck with an engine that has lower compression, worse fuel economy, poorer performance and higher oil consumption - although in some instances, the difference may be marginal - or likewise, could be night and day.
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Jun 21, 2010 11:34:27 GMT
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yeah i recon drive it hard , but not labour it
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Jun 21, 2010 11:42:37 GMT
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Word of warning that driving it hard was what killed my Anglia engine within 50 miles of my rebuild. I wouldn't if I were you
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Jun 21, 2010 11:56:22 GMT
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There does need to be reasonably high cylinder pressures to get the rings bedded in but no high rpm and no need to thrash it or work it really hard. Just firm acceleration up to the middle of the rev range through each gear.
Oil change immediately after initial start up (maybe 10 mins of running) then plenty of oil changes until run in.
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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Jun 21, 2010 12:12:11 GMT
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drive like your 5 mins late but the fuel light is on.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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"running in please pass"HARDCORE
@hardcore
Club Retro Rides Member 190
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Jun 21, 2010 12:25:33 GMT
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drive like your 5 mins late but the fuel light is on. Ha ha, marvelous ;D
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Jun 21, 2010 12:56:55 GMT
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Jonny, weren't you sitting on the motorway at high (engine) speed though at the time? Probably wasn't the best place to run in an engine I'm not implying you should thrash it to curse word, get up on it at every junction and bounce it off the limiter, just exercise it properly across the rev range without loading or labouring it - constantly varying the engine speed and not sitting flat out Here's what the David Baker at Pumaspeed says, he seems to be fairly well reputed by everyone
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Last Edit: Jun 21, 2010 13:02:10 GMT by Lewis
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Jun 21, 2010 13:06:59 GMT
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A guy I know who rebuilds megabhp MR2 engines, says run them in hard. If you are too soft, you'll get glazing.
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Jun 21, 2010 15:19:55 GMT
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A guy I know who rebuilds megabhp MR2 engines, says run them in hard. If you are too soft, you'll get glazing. Been there, done that.
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Jun 21, 2010 22:42:22 GMT
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Gonna be honest here, I'm none the wiser!!!
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^^That's what "collective wisdom" is all about, Davey! ;D
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Team Blitz Ford Capri parts worldwide: Restoration, Road, or Race. Used, Repro, and NOS, ranging from scabby to perfect. Itching your Capri jones since 1979! Buy, sell, trade. www.teamblitz.com blitz@teamblitz.com
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I've been advised pretty similarly when I got my engine rebuilt in the Amazon, lots of steep hills, don't bog it down but use most of the rev range. Lots of pressure to avoid glazing and lots of variation, no sitting at speed for any period of time for the first couple of thousand miles, fresh oil after 600. This comes from the engine builder, a mechanic with 50 years experience and my boss, who races semi-seriously.
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Remade In Australia thereimaginarium.com.au
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Here's one for y'all
two friends of mine, both bought identical, brandnew scooby sti's, both kept them bone stock, did about the same milage, BUT one ran his in too the owner manual specs, the other cained the tits off it fro the start, red line, full throtle take off's, high speed runs, just abused it from day one.
Now the interesting bit, after 2 years, both cars still stock, both around the same milage, they both took their cars to a rolling road session, the one that was abused from the start made about 10bhp MORE than the other..... (and yes, they were both running the same fuel, even from the same pump at the same time)
I know it'll be down to lower internal friction, but why and how???
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Remember the days when sex was safe and motorsport was dangerous. Vintage bling always attracts pussy.
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Oh, and I'd go for the hard and not laboured route,
Sounds the best bet.
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Remember the days when sex was safe and motorsport was dangerous. Vintage bling always attracts pussy.
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i've always driven as normal but avoided motorways for the first few long runs never broke one doing it yet my first long run is normally in the direction of Santa pod for a good days racing couple of half passes first just to make sure everything is fine then in with full passes but keeping it out of the redline . if its built right you should have no problems
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Well, I have another thing to add to the equation, its not MOT'd now it ran out while being off the road so I need to get a ticket - however, I need to somehow incorporate this into the running in period and I'm not sure I can, first off, its probably gonna smoke its tits off for a while isnt it? So thats the emmisions out the window, plus the tester will have it sat for ages idling, so thats the running in period out the window and my bores glazed!.... I need a private test track in the back garden I think.
And so, to run in my turbo 4cyl engine,
1. don't sit idling for a while 2. No constant speed - motorways, dual carriageways, sitting in heavy traffic? 3. Keep below boost?? 4. Don't labour it but accelerate hard up to about 3.8 - 4k (before boost) then let it wind down to build up pressure 5. change the oil at about 500 miles? 6. Oh and after initial startup change the oil immediately?
7. Or just pretty much batter it but not to redline?? GAH!!
How much of that is right?? Its a minefield of different advice and I havent a clue how I can get past my MOT conundrum!!!!
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