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Jun 20, 2010 23:44:40 GMT
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The sump on the Locost hangs considerably lower than we'd like it to as the engine position height wise is constrained by the exhaust port positioning. I am therefore planning to chop the bowl off the the bottom of the sump as shown in this photo: I then plan to weld a flat plate to the bottom, put in some baffles, reposition the sump plug on the side and overfill the oil. It was a common modification in sidecar engines back when they were popular so i'm confident it will work. I have two questions: 1) Is there any sort of aluminium grade I should be looking to use? I'm planning on 4mm thickness but I know very little about different grades and their weldability. 2) Would anyone in the south (Berks area) with access to a TIG welder be willing to spend 5 minutes welding it up for me? I can do all the prep work but not the welding! Cheers, Adam
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Last Edit: Jul 19, 2010 19:48:42 GMT by Adam
1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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Jun 20, 2010 23:51:15 GMT
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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Son, if you were here, I'd do it for you. What is "TESCO Bucks Fizz"? Norm
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Team Blitz Ford Capri parts worldwide: Restoration, Road, or Race. Used, Repro, and NOS, ranging from scabby to perfect. Itching your Capri jones since 1979! Buy, sell, trade. www.teamblitz.com blitz@teamblitz.com
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Bucks fizz, is an orange juice / champagne mix, usually consumed around special occasions christmas etc.
As for the welding, I would be more concerned about cleanliness, get the sump bead blasted and it should be fine for welding. It will be a high silicon content ally due to being die cast, so I suppose you could try and match that, but it will be difficult as sheet ally is rolled and requires a different composition.
I say keep it clean and just use some normal sheet ally.
J
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Bucks fizz, is an orange juice / champagne mix, usually consumed around special occasions christmas etc. As for the welding, I would be more concerned about cleanliness, get the sump bead blasted and it should be fine for welding. It will be a high silicon content ally due to being die cast, so I suppose you could try and match that, but it will be difficult as sheet ally is rolled and requires a different composition. I say keep it clean and just use some normal sheet ally. J And I have no idea why we would have bought 12 bottles of it! Cheers for the info! Will get on ebay and order some. Adam
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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Jun 21, 2010 10:37:25 GMT
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yep like said high silicone content, 5% filler rods around 3mm will be fine tho. get the sump as clean as poss, stainless wire brush it, then degrease with acetone. the cleaner the easier it is to weld.
cast melts at a lower temp that "normal" rolled aly, so maybe use slightly thinner sheet for the modification. and make sure it fits really well, its abit gay trying to build up aly to bridge a gap.
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Jun 21, 2010 11:49:16 GMT
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I just did this exact thing recently with a GSXR sump that was going into the front of a Smart car.
I used 5356 rods both 2.4 and 3.2mm (which is all I had) and used 3mm aluminium plate.
Cleanliness is going to be the main problem. Even though I cleaned the sump - I could still see contamination coming out of the casting as I welded - always the same with these castings - some are just better quality than others.
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Jun 21, 2010 16:24:49 GMT
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it wont be a 5 min job to weld it i can assure you, it took me nearly an hour to weld a 10cm by 5 cm plate onto an old intercooler, even after cleaning you could still see the dirt coming out ! some 1050 plate from ebay will suffice, and clean as directed above just before welding. you cant pre-clean it as shortly after its be cleaned, the oxide starts to reform
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Jun 21, 2010 17:21:37 GMT
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as ruishy said it won't be a 5 minute job, and sumps are particularly nasty due to the oiliness, that said I've welded up Peugeot sumps with much success as well as bits of Fireblade pretty nicely.
If you were nearer I'd have had a go !
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'A' series trigger wheels and sensor brackets, 205 GTi radiator brackets, general fabrication and machining - www.gsmotorsport.net
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Jun 21, 2010 17:24:45 GMT
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it wont be a 5 min job to weld it I can assure you, it took me nearly an hour to weld a 10cm by 5 cm plate onto an old intercooler, even after cleaning you could still see the dirt coming out ! some 1050 plate from ebay will suffice, and clean as directed above just before welding. you cant pre-clean it as shortly after its be cleaned, the oxide starts to reform I do realise its not literally a 5 minute job Cheers for all the tips guys. Adam
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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B-8-D
Posted a lot
down to one car!!
Posts: 4,038
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Jun 21, 2010 18:22:07 GMT
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adam if you can get it to me i will weld it for you.. not for a week though.. as I'm still fettling the viva conversion...
si
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Jun 21, 2010 21:35:33 GMT
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Cheers Si, I was going to stick you a PM if there was no one closer. Unfortunately I'm back in Newbury so you're not quite so local. Thinking about it, I might head down to Area 52 sometime soon so could get it to you then...?
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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B-8-D
Posted a lot
down to one car!!
Posts: 4,038
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Jun 21, 2010 21:51:41 GMT
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Cheers Si, I was going to stick you a PM if there was no one closer. Unfortunately I'm back in Newbury so you're not quite so local. Thinking about it, I might head down to Area 52 sometime soon so could get it to you then...? yeah thats no trubble bloke whenever if i can help i will.. si
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Ads 19
Posted a lot
My old r19
Posts: 1,351
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Jun 22, 2010 19:47:35 GMT
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ok, might not be most legitimate suggestion, buy why not weld in some cast material, i've had this done a few times. Pub beer barrels. Most ales use cast, and its loverly for patching inlet manifolds etc. just obtaining them legally problem. i might have a base somewhere! don't use the spire end as usually when you cut them open there will be cracks on inside
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Jun 22, 2010 19:48:57 GMT
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beer barrels are normally made from stainless steel AFAIK
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Ads 19
Posted a lot
My old r19
Posts: 1,351
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your lager and cider will be stainless. not yet seen a stainless ale barrel. sure there is a reason. Probably cost of Stainless, or difference between presurised keg and Real ale. or maybe just ali takes the pounding from hammer puting in spire. tbh, it wouldn't be wise to cut open a Cider or lager keg as there will almost certainly be a few psi and couple of pints left in them.
Just remembered Milk churns too. though i suppose you could use another sump as the patch.
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I've bought the ali plate Now just waiting on the sump so I can start chopping!
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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Some pictures of what needs doing, for the attention of Si (B8D) who has kindly offered to look at it for me The plate over the cutout and the sump plug: A couple of baffles in the sump: The difficult part, the oil pickup. Would it be possible to dump a load of filler rod in there:? Possibly from the inside: Other views: Some more pictures in here: s125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/LocoPolo/Locost/
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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B-8-D
Posted a lot
down to one car!!
Posts: 4,038
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all looks ok adam,,,
as long as its all bare metal and clean should be ok..
see u tomorrow. and u has pm's. si
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Its all currently sat in thinners and i'll be blasting it tomorrow morning Big thanks again!
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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