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Jun 23, 2010 14:55:11 GMT
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I know that the Daf plugs won't fit the triumph, but that doesn't stop you connecting them to the triumph's ignition system to test it out. Are you sure that the rotor arm is pointing towards the right cylinder's plug lead - if it's 180 degrees out then it won't run however good the spark is. EDIT Even if the leads are inthe right order are they in the right location? /EDIT Try test 1 from my previous post and report back - that will test the LT circuit and the coil together. If you have a spark with that test, but none at the plug leads I'd put money on it being the rotor arm. I currently use old rotor arms, but have one of these to go on: www.distributordoctor.com/red-rotor-arms.html
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Last Edit: Jun 23, 2010 15:00:12 GMT by jrevillug
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,537
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Jun 23, 2010 15:10:41 GMT
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Was it running with the old points? If so, put them back in for the time being whatever they looked like.
I don't have any spare old 25D rotor arms or I'd send you one. Even a new modern cheap rotor arm could be faulty.
ALso that earth lead wire you have running from the dizzy points plate to the dizzy boddy looks like it might prevent the points plate from turning when pulled by the vac advance. The original ones were very flexible for that reason.
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Last Edit: Jun 23, 2010 15:17:00 GMT by Seth
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Jun 23, 2010 15:39:26 GMT
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Do you want me to bung an old rotor arm in the post for you? PM me your address if so.
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Jun 23, 2010 16:34:45 GMT
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Just to throw something random into the mix. Several yars ago I had a Mk2 Fiesta. that suddenly stopped running despite all the usual static spark tests. In the end it was the weights in the dizzy that had failed so it wasn't spinning properly.
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Jun 23, 2010 20:35:36 GMT
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Was it running with the old points? If so, put them back in for the time being whatever they looked like. I don't have any spare old 25D rotor arms or I'd send you one. Even a new modern cheap rotor arm could be faulty. ALso that earth lead wire you have running from the dizzy points plate to the dizzy boddy looks like it might prevent the points plate from turning when pulled by the vac advance. The original ones were very flexible for that reason. I replaced the earth strap incase it was the problem but still have the original so can whack it back on. When I fitted it I checked that the points plate could still turn. That rotor arm wasn't that cheap it was a tenner. I no longer have the old points so cant put them back on. Plugs definatly work as tested as do leads. Oh and the rotor arm only goes on one way. The leads are positioned exactly the same as they where when it was running. Will try everything suggested tomorrow and report back. also I cant see why the vaccum advance would stop the car even spluttering
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Jun 26, 2010 14:20:16 GMT
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Theres no crack in the cap. It was just a trick of the light.
I have had some success today. Fidling with the ignition circuit. I replaced the earth strap and routed my dizzy power supply direct like on Spunkymonkeys. I then checked for spark, we know have a big fat blue spark at every plug. I checked the timing which was 180degrees out and reset it. So we know have spark and at the right time on all cylinders. I think I now have to rule out ignition as to why it wont start still not firing. My next thought is to replace the carb diaphragm, can anybody supply one? From the way it spluttered a few times after starting properly and then died afterwards refusing to start. I think it is more likely to be fuelling than anything more serious.
I'm chuffed anyway Ive at least part sorted it as it didn't have spark but now does.
Carb is zenith stromberg 150CD side draught by the way
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Jun 26, 2010 15:23:13 GMT
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ive had many problems with new sets of point just not working atall, put old ones back in and no problems. if u have your old ones clean them up a little and stick them in see if makes a difference.
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Jun 27, 2010 16:16:19 GMT
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paul you want me to pop over an have a look with you if your at cov thats not an issue??? (dunno about leicester though lol) fresh set of eyes might help? you never know
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Jun 27, 2010 16:25:52 GMT
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I have my old points from the Toledo if you need them (the car ran exactly the same with the new ones, so I don't think the old ones are kaput). Also have the rotor arm and dizzy cap
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1993 Fiat Panda Selecta 2003 Vauxhall Combo 1.7DI van 2006 Mercedes Kompressor Evolution-S AMG SportCoupé
"You think you hate it now, wait til you drive it"
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Jun 27, 2010 20:07:20 GMT
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I'm in wales and as I said its sparking properly now after fiddling so the ignition system is well.
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Jun 30, 2010 12:30:40 GMT
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We have signs of life. Replaced the carb diaphragm and Bruce now splutters. If you pour petrol down the carb it even runs for a couple of seconds. Thwe fuel pump appears to be asthmatic and thus unable to draw fuel up the tank through empty lines thus I think a replacement is in order.
Yippee Bruce is not dead
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,685
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Jun 30, 2010 14:49:21 GMT
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As I'm a believer in - if a car won't run, that did run, then a part (singular) has broken (or I've been "fixing" it ) - I find it very hard to belive the pump is the problem, if it has suddenly started to get closer to running after fitting a new diaphragm. I mean the diaphragm, pump and entire ignition system dying all together is just a tad, well unlikely to happen. If its run dry - which by the sound of it is has, make sure theres plenty of fuel in the tank (5-10 litres?) then run the engine by pouring fuel in the carb a few times, eventually it should draw fuel through and run on its own. This is the method I use with an old mini I have laying around, and it works everytime. If not, and it didn't run by pouring fuel down the carb before you replaced the diaphagm, you've been very unlucky and lots of stuff died together! Might be an idea to fit a fuel filter too, as you might even be suffering from rubbish in the lines, just a thought. Hope its running soon
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Jun 30, 2010 15:26:30 GMT
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Theres an in line filter fitted and its empty. Got one of the clear ones that mounts just before the pump. Thats what makes me suspect the pump. No ammount of turning the engine or hand priming the pump will bring fuel up to the pump. The pump was also full of particulate curse word and has a filter of its own.
The ignitions now working properly The carb is now working as it fires if you stick fuel in it.
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might be worth getting a footpump and blowing BACK down the fuel line to the tank just incase its sucked a plug of curse word into the line in the tank, my hunter estate used to do this from time to time..
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andyf
South West
Posts: 415
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Phoenixescort talks a lot of sense. If the tank ran dry, it is surprising how much fuel you need to get pumping through again (I know from personal experience - I put in over 10 litres before anything happened). If you have plenty of fuel, see if you can find a generic electric pump and plumb that in temporarily to see if it pulls fuel though.
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1980 Triumph TR7.
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Repaired via bodgeneering. I found a 2500 glass dome pump local that has the same arm length and stud pattern for pittance. That is now fitted to the car and after some coaxing it started and now starts and runs normally. ;D
However I have not yet dared to take it on a run for 2 reasons.
1. I noticed smoke. Solved the cause being that the pressure from the new pump was too much for one fuel line and it was leaking. 1 fuel clip later and solved. The smoke was because the line was leaking onto the starter motor and battery. That could have been a nice fire!!
2. Line is also leaking where it exits the fuel pump. It is the joint itself rather than pump or line. This I think is because I had to reangle the line to make it fit. I'm going to run a flexi line from the pump in the hope of sorting that problem and then we can go for a drive.
I'm quite tempted to drive it a mile and call the RAC saying oh dear ive got a fuel leak and get them to bodgeneer it anyway ;D ;D ;D I probably shouldn't be so lazy though
Paul
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Aug 15, 2010 18:07:20 GMT
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Thought i would update here its fixed and running well again. Work that was required to get it going its quite a list but its all done and I'm happy. Ignition circuit and plugs Fuel Pump Carb diaphragm Head skim and gasket Valve and seat regrind and decoke Oh and I changed this as well which scared me a lot that could have been bye bye car and dead me.
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might be worth getting a footpump and blowing BACK down the fuel line to the tank just incase its sucked a plug of curse word into the line in the tank, my hunter estate used to do this from time to time.. My Superminx used to do that for a pastime. Must be a Rootes thing. A lot of older cars have the fuel takeoff pipe far too close to the bottom of the tank and all the crud that accumulated over the years gets sucked in (not to mention water!) which lends to allsorts of problems. Those glass dome pumps are a godsend though. The brass mesh filter in the top only stops large debris like hedgehogs and housebricks that might have found their way into the system somehow but still a lot of muck that'll fit down the fuel line from the tank will be stopped by it. I got quite adept at flushing and re-priming mine at the side of the road Could also change the points in howling wind and hammering rain in the dark because all it required was one flat-bladed screwdriver that lived in the glovebox! (That car had issues. I think it was posessed.) Glad to hear you got it running though. Might want to drop the tank and get it cleaned by the sounds of it though. --Phil
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berendd
Europe
why do I need 3 keys for one car?
Posts: 1,449
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Oh and I changed this as well which scared me a lot that could have been bye bye car and dead me. And that is??? Good thing it's running again!
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Aug 16, 2010 10:23:00 GMT
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Rubber rotoflex coupling. That is the flexible section of a drive shaft used instead of a CV joint.
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