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purplevanman
Posted a lot
Way too orangey for crows
Posts: 3,830
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I have used one for years ;D Today I weighed a discovery in using it. Legal side is a bit dodgy though, supposed to be for breakdown only and towed vehicle should be legal. But.. If you look "right" you should be ok although if you get the wrong copper then lookout  |
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Welder, fabricator, general resto work
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Yes on both counts though i found FWD cars on very tight turns at slow speed can go to full lock and stick there, it still tows straight just jusy drags and screatches a lot  Actually gettin it on the towed car in the wet can be a pain and the design of some cars susspension can cause problems (double wishbone types usually) also some cars that have a low front mounted steering rack or low front spoliers or body kits. Other than that i towed loads of cars about the country with a old transit 2.5 Di till i started getting pulled for using one  |
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R.I.P photobucket
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Yep - I've towed quite a few cars with one. Dead easy, hooked up in about 5 mins and off you go. I borrow it off a friend and use it more than he does....even been thinking of getting my own but he says it'd be a waste because I can use his whenever I like. The only snag is it is useless on lowered cars, it does need a bit of room to get the arms under the front bumper but on standard height cars or older cars with higher valances/bumpers it will be fine.... BTW - it was great to meet you yesterday, I think everyone was envious about the car! It's rather lovely ;D Don't forget to pop in whenever you feel like it. |
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yes, easy peasy to use, technically only legal for recovery though and not vehicle transport, also carefull what you try and shift with them, i bent mine in half towing a Range Rover with another Range Rover.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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purplevanman
Posted a lot
Way too orangey for crows
Posts: 3,830
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yes, easy peasy to use, technically only legal for recovery though and not vehicle transport, also carefull what you try and shift with them, I bent mine in half towing a Range Rover with another Range Rover. How did you do that? biggest i did was a nissan cabstar tipper still with rubbish in the back, towed over 30 miles with my Landy, felt a bit close for me but all was well It gets exiting when towing cars with a car of similair size, the tow car can easily push the back end of the towing car around when braking coming into roundabouts etc  |
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Welder, fabricator, general resto work
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slowing down for a mini roundabout and making a fairly sharp left turn, The Rangey on the back was still pushing a bit I think so as I turned left all the weight went onto one arm and bent it downwards until it hit the road, lost the steering effect on the towed one which started to go straight onwards over the roundabout towards the cars going across from left to right in front of me so I hoofed me toe down a bit and prayed it was still connected.
Turned out ok, I manged to drag it sideways before it ran into anyone and pull it 40 yards or so up the road and into a gap in the hedge.
I guess a 2 ton Range Rover was a bit to much for it, its an ex RAC one so not a weedy one and has a pin hitch so couldnt disconnect at the tow car end and the straps kept it joined on the towed one even when it all went wonky.
It wasn't the first time i'd shifted one behind the other which is a bit naughty, gives you an all up weight of over 4 tons. :S
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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..... It gets exiting when towing cars with a car of similair size, the tow car can easily push the back end of the towing car around when braking coming into roundabouts etc Yep, I jacknifed on a roundabout towing a 406 estate with a 405 estate. The 405 ended up nose-first on the roundabout with the 406 at 90degrees behind it, blocking the roundabout. It was impossible to reverse or move any other way, so I had to bail out, disconnect it, drive the 406 away and park it up the road, run back and shift the 405, then hook it all up again. This is my only gripe with a-frames, the tendency for the towed car to push the tail of the towcar out if braking on a corner. The moral of the story is to get all your braking and gearchanges done well in advance so you can run a constant speed or accelerate round the corners. My frame is also an ex RAC one with a pin hitch. It also has an over-run brake system that's linked to a steel cable that you run into the towed car, where is fits to a lever arm that you strap to the drivers seat and brake pedal. When the hitch compresses, it pulls the cable, which presses down on the cars brake pedal. Fine in theory, but in reality its not up to much, as without servo assistance, most cars require monster effort on the pedal to get any braking effect, and there is too much "give" in the foam of the seat where the device straps onto, so it doesn't really do much. |
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1986 Panda 4x4.
1990 Metro Sport.
1999 Ford Escort estate.
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I've got a 2500kg Solo-Matic and used for all sorts.
Only problem was a Mazda 6 that was impossible to tow (wheels either went left or right as soon as any forward motion).
I always use a towing vehicle far heavier than car being recovered and wouldn't risk it the other way round.
Paul H
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Thats much my experience as well, the built in braking system is pretty pants and i'd given up with it, banking on the fact i was towing with a RR to be able to handle the weight which it did, but the frame gave out instead.
I was lucky the towed RR didn't clump anyone elses car, buying a trailer would have been a hell of a lot cheaper than paying for any damage and it could have hurt someone.
I wont use one for shifting anything heavy again, and i definately wont tow with anything less than a 4x4 or a big van.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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I have one and have used it about half a dozen times without any major problems. The only thing I have found is cars with none standard wheels don't want to play nicely if the width and offset is different from stock. Those sometimes won't follow on mini roundabouts or tight turns. I guess that could also apply to some lowered cars where the geometry is altered. I've only had it happen once though. I probably wouldn't tow anything heavy or go a really long way with one. If you tow with a 4x4, chuck and amber flashing light on the top you look more like recovery, even if you don't turn it on ;D  |
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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I don't think I've ever been as scared on the road as when I was with a mate, A framing a Baywindow behind a T5, at 55mph down the m1 with 3 inches of snow on the ground on the way to dubfreeze. Even just letting off the accelerator made the whole thing squirm, which sat in the back I felt a lot more than the driver did. uffing horrible it was! In the end I convinced him to just unhook it and drive them down separately but he was all for ploughing on :S)
He regularly tows anything from a t2 to a t4 behind his T5. When not in the snow, you can barely tell you are towing anything when there is a bay on the back. He tows them up and down the country, regularly doing hundreds of miles on motorways with an ex AA frame.
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Last Edit: Jun 8, 2010 9:46:26 GMT by cobblers
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I have used one for years ;D Today I weighed a discovery in using it. Legal side is a bit dodgy though, supposed to be for breakdown only and towed vehicle should be legal. But.. If you look "right" you should be ok although if you get the wrong copper then lookout By look right.. Have a reocovery light on? Whats the damage for breaking the law. points/fines...lose licence? |
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Thanks all. Looks like an easy to use tool but be careful with heavier cars!
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The Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989 say; ....amber light from a warning beacon fitted to- (i) a road clearance vehicle; (ii) a vehicle constructed or adapted for the purpose of collecting refuse; (iii) a breakdown vehicle; (iv) a vehicle having a maximum speed not exceeding 25 mph or any trailer drawn by such a vehicle; (v) a vehicle having an overall width (including any load) exceeding 2.9 m; (vi) a vehicle used for the purposes of testing, maintaining, improving, cleansing or watering roads or for any purpose incidental to any such use; (vii) a vehicle used for the purpose of inspecting, cleansing, maintaining, adjusting, renewing or installing any apparatus which is in, on, under or over a road, or for any purpose incidental to any such use; (viii) a vehicle used for or in connection with any purpose for which it is authorised to be used on roads by an order under section 44 of the Act; (ix) a vehicle used for escort purposes when travelling at a speed not exceeding 25 mph; (x) a vehicle used by the Commissioners of Customs and Excise for the purpose of testing fuels; (xi) a vehicle used for the purpose of surveying; (xii) a vehicle used for the removal or immobilisation of vehicles in exercise of a statutory power or duty. If your gonna claim your a breakdown vehicle, be prepared for plod to seek proof, such as the proper insurance or a real business, I dunno about the penalties for misuse of the A frame, I suspect if they really wanted to nick you they'd class your towed vehicle as a trailer which depending on its weight could put your car over its max train weight and be required by law to have the correct trailer type brakes, so construction and use offenses I guess, and possibly driving without a license/tacho if your running something heavy like a van or 4x4 and a bigish towed vehicle. Better to be informed even if you choose to go ahead anyway.  |
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Yep - I've towed quite a few cars with one. Dead easy, hooked up in about 5 mins and off you go. I borrow it off a friend and use it more than he does....even been thinking of getting my own but he says it'd be a waste because I can use his whenever I like. The only snag is it is useless on lowered cars, it does need a bit of room to get the arms under the front bumper but on standard height cars or older cars with higher valances/bumpers it will be fine.... BTW - it was great to meet you yesterday, I think everyone was envious about the car! It's rather lovely ;D Don't forget to pop in whenever you feel like it. Thanks for the feedback Bruce. I might actually buy one. As to the car I must admit I feel a bit of a fraud as all the work was done by Paul and Mark. I do really enjoy driving it though :-) |
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Jun 16, 2010 13:13:05 GMT
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sorry to bump up an old thread but has anyone got a how to use these as ive just got one and need to use it this weekend |
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'90 Audi B3 Coupe 2.3 Auto [gone]
'92 Audi S4 Avant 2.2 AAN Turbo Auto [gone]
'93 Audi 80 Avant 1.9TDi [gone]
'96 Audi A4 Avant 2.6 Quattro [gone]
'97 VW T4 1.9td LWB [gone]
'03 Skoda Octavia 1.9TDi [gone]
'05 VW T5 Shuttle LWB 1.9TDi
'15 VW Caddy Maxi Kombi 1.6TDi
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Jun 16, 2010 13:40:12 GMT
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Pretty much covered by the above..ive used one twice and hated every minute of it.....
just make sure whatever your towing isnt bigger than what your towing with.....
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1984 Subaru GLF Hatch
1983 Skoda 120LE Super estelle
1977 Subaru DL Wagon
1978 Datsun 120Y Coupe
1995 Skoda favorit estate
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Jun 16, 2010 19:43:43 GMT
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Jun 16, 2010 20:18:30 GMT
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www.dropshots.com/how2towfiat126500 look there for instructions .. THE ONE I AM USING IN THE PHOTOS IS A SOLOMATIC RECOVERY FRAME CAPABLE OF TOWING UPTO 2.5 TONS .. IT SIMPLY ALL LOCKS TOGETHER .. I FOUND THAT THE EASIEST WAY WAS. CONNECT THE FRAME ALL TOGETHER, TWO LEGS INTO THE MAIN FRAME, KEEPING THE EXTRA STRENGTHENING BARS ON THE INSIDE. THE STRAPS:- AT EACH END OF THE LEGS THERE IS A "U" SHAPED BRACKET. PULL THE FRAME TOWARD THE VEHICLE TO BE TOWED AND PUT 1 OF THESE ON THE LOWEST PART OF THE SUSPENSION AT THE WIDEST PART, BOTTOM WISHBONE WOULD BE IDEAL. WRAP THE STRAP OVER THIS AND THEN TAKE IT BACK TO THE RATCHET, TIGHTEN IT ONLY ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE LEG BUT NOT TO TIGHT REPEAT THIS ON OTHER LEG. THEN PLACE THE HITCH ONTO THE TOW BAR OF THE TOWING VEHICLE AND TIGHTEN THE RATCHETS ON BOTH LEGS IT IS BEST TO DRIVE A HUNDRED YARDS OR SO AND THEN CHECK RATCHETS AGAIN TO TAKE UP ANY SLACK OR SETTLEMENT. I HOPE THIS MAKES SENSE WHEN YOU GET THE UNIT. TO BE HONEST IT SOUNDS MORE COMPLICATED THAN IT IS. THE FIRST TIME WILL BE THE HARDEST, THEN IT WILL BE A DODDLE.
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Last Edit: Jun 16, 2010 20:19:23 GMT by fiat126
if you have helped me with advice or parts thank you so much ... should anyone require some dining chair covers gimme a shout. I make and manufacture them .
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