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Everything except the wire - it has the plug for the alternator though.
What voltage is on the battery without the engine running?
And what symptoms does it give when you try to start it without the jump start? Does it turn over slowly, does it just click, or does it turn at normal speed but just not fire?
EDIT - if I were doing inner city mileage with traffic I'd be much happier with an alternator. In a queue with a dynamo you'll probably find that you need to keep to just sidelights so that you don't discharge the battery too much. With an alternator you'll be able to use headlights, meaning better visibility both for yourself and of yourself.
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Last Edit: Feb 26, 2010 1:09:23 GMT by jrevillug
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haven't checked the batteries voltages at all yet, will check them tomorrow.
without the jump start it will just turn over indefinatley, or it will will turn over then sound as if its about to fire then it dies.
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haven't checked the batteries voltages at all yet, will check them tomorrow. without the jump start it will just turn over indefinatley, or it will will turn over then sound as if its about to fire then it dies. Interesting - doesnt sound like the battery to me. Maybe the ignition system is weak, and the extra voltage from a jump pack is all it needs to give it that edge. TBH your ignition coil looks a little old. Nothing wrong with that in itself, but it might be misbehaving. I agree with the others. Run through the: -Valve clearances -Plug gaps and condition -Points gap and condition -Ignition timing -Ignition wiring (check of loose/frayed/dirty connections everywhere) -Air filter When it's running, adjust the carburettor's idle speed and volume (mixture) settings - but follow the workshop manual, and ideally get someone experienced to give you a hand, as this bit is, IME, mostly based on knowing what to listen for. It's easy to make the carb settings worse, as there's no easily-measureable setting for most of them. That said, I started out with a workshop manual and trial and error, and don't think I'm too bad now - although I did have help from my dad to start with.
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ive already set the idle speed on the carb according to the workshop manual, well my dad did. My dad said he's checked the points gaps, plug gaps and said there fine.
apparently the previous owner tried to replace the coil but could not get the new one to work so refitted the old one.
the air filter is loose as well if that matters, also the carb makes a slight knocking noise sometimes.
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,649
Club RR Member Number: 1
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Help! herald wont fireNathan
@bgtmidget7476
Club Retro Rides Member 1
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haven't checked the batteries voltages at all yet, will check them tomorrow. without the jump start it will just turn over indefinatley, or it will will turn over then sound as if its about to fire then it dies. Interesting - doesnt sound like the battery to me. Maybe the ignition system is weak, and the extra voltage from a jump pack is all it needs to give it that edge. TBH your ignition coil looks a little old. Nothing wrong with that in itself, but it might be misbehaving. I agree with the others. Run through the: -Valve clearances -Plug gaps and condition -Points gap and condition -Ignition timing -Ignition wiring (check of loose/frayed/dirty connections everywhere) -Air filter When it's running, adjust the carburettor's idle speed and volume (mixture) settings - but follow the workshop manual, and ideally get someone experienced to give you a hand, as this bit is, IME, mostly based on knowing what to listen for. It's easy to make the carb settings worse, as there's no easily-measureable setting for most of them. That said, I started out with a workshop manual and trial and error, and don't think I'm too bad now - although I did have help from my dad to start with. I had the same issues a week ago on the Midget, I ran though this sort of check to find it was the points Arching out. I just replaced the lot including the condensor and boom it work straight away.
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stevea
Part of things
Posts: 281
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Feb 26, 2010 11:54:46 GMT
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Feb 26, 2010 15:11:02 GMT
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okay tested the battery to see if it was getting a charge and it is getting about 15v from the dynamo, but it's not keeping it, so I'm going to get a new battery tonight and fit that, the current one is about 5 years old as it is so probably due a replacement anyway.
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Last Edit: Feb 26, 2010 15:11:31 GMT by yantorsen
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Feb 26, 2010 15:45:48 GMT
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haven't checked the batteries voltages at all yet, will check them tomorrow. without the jump start it will just turn over indefinatley, or it will will turn over then sound as if its about to fire then it dies. Interesting - doesnt sound like the battery to me. Maybe the ignition system is weak, and the extra voltage from a jump pack is all it needs to give it that edge. TBH your ignition coil looks a little old. Nothing wrong with that in itself, but it might be misbehaving. Unless you take the questionable step of wiring the jump pack & battery in series rather than parallel, you don't get more volts, but you do get more amps. The starter takes the lion's share of the amps on start-up, but you can have problems with the speed it will turn over if the iginition timing is too advanced and extra amps can help to overcome it. My knowledge of dynamos is limited - can you still measure static drain as per alternators?
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Feb 26, 2010 18:11:26 GMT
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Interesting - doesnt sound like the battery to me. Maybe the ignition system is weak, and the extra voltage from a jump pack is all it needs to give it that edge. TBH your ignition coil looks a little old. Nothing wrong with that in itself, but it might be misbehaving. Unless you take the questionable step of wiring the jump pack & battery in series rather than parallel, you don't get more volts, but you do get more amps. The starter takes the lion's share of the amps on start-up, but you can have problems with the speed it will turn over if the iginition timing is too advanced and extra amps can help to overcome it. My knowledge of dynamos is limited - can you still measure static drain as per alternators? You do get more volts when turning over the engine, as the internal resistance of the battery is higher than the combined battery and starter pack. This means that the voltage drop when supplying the ~200A to the starter is lower, resulting in better starting power and more voltage at the coil. A higher CCA battery merely has a lower internal resistance allowing the battery to supply more amps before the voltage drops to the test limit (which IIRC is around 7.5V depending on the testing organisation. Not sure what static drain is, TBH. At a guess it's the current drawn from the battery when the ignition is off? It's possible that the dynamo's cut-out is stuck in the on position, but the dynamo would get very hot very quickly if that were the case. However, I'd suggest that anything much above 14.5 volts is overcharging the battery, which could be the root cause of the battery damage. Does the battery have any indication as to how old it is? IME 5 years is a reasonable life for a battery that's treated fairly well. EDIT - just seen that the battery is 5 years old, so it might indeed be time to replace it.
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Last Edit: Feb 26, 2010 18:13:09 GMT by jrevillug
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Feb 26, 2010 19:13:30 GMT
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fitted a new battery and its now working fine thus far, going for a drive tomorrow so we'll see how it goes
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Feb 27, 2010 21:42:38 GMT
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If your oil light's coming on, you've probably got a fair bit of fuel in the sump now if you're been cranking it a lot and flooding it. Thins it out so the oil pressure won't build as well as with clean oil.
Easiest fix for that is to give it an oil change (especially if it's due one) but technically it'd burn off once the oil gets nice and warm on a long journey.
(On a side note my dad said that was a method used on older aircraft engines for cold starts- put a bit of petrol in the sump to thin the single-grade oil out so it wasn't so hard on the starter motor, and then the petrol evaporated with the heat of running and the oil would return to its correct viscosity. This has since been negated through use of multigrade oils.)
--Phil
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Help! herald wont firesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Feb 27, 2010 22:19:13 GMT
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It probably won't help you now you're going to fit a new battery but years ago I was having trouble starting my land rover. I found that it would start once I let go of the key. It turned out the battery was dying and was enough to either spin the engine over or run the ignition system, just not at the same time. New battery cured that one
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Help! herald wont fireBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Feb 27, 2010 23:13:18 GMT
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It probably won't help you now you're going to fit a new battery but years ago I was having trouble starting my land rover. I found that it would start once I let go of the key. It turned out the battery was dying and was enough to either spin the engine over or run the ignition system, just not at the same time. New battery cured that one Funny you should say that, cos that's exactly what my Bond does. I'll have to check my battery tomorrow. I have one from a BMW 525TD in the garage but I think that would actually roll the car over if I hooked that thing up and cranked it. ;D
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Okay battery would appear to have solved part of my problem, it now starts every time (albeit with a bit of trial and error with the choke as I'm still getting used to it) but until it's been warmed up for about 5 minutes it won't idle and it'll just die. That might just be me putting the choke in too early though. I've increased the idle speed to help remedy this a bit but I'm not sure if it should do this or not.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Help! herald wont firesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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It probably won't help you now you're going to fit a new battery but years ago I was having trouble starting my land rover. I found that it would start once I let go of the key. It turned out the battery was dying and was enough to either spin the engine over or run the ignition system, just not at the same time. New battery cured that one Funny you should say that, cos that's exactly what my Bond does. I'll have to check my battery tomorrow. I have one from a BMW 525TD in the garage but I think that would actually roll the car over if I hooked that thing up and cranked it. ;D I think the problem was one of the cells in the battery had died, so there was enough to spin it, just not enough to spark at the same time
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I'm having same problem. I've git a car that's been standing for years.sometimes it fires and runs rough. Not noisy though not able to get on the road yet. It's certainly running risc if it does run at all
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I'm having same problem. I've git a car that's been standing for years.sometimes it fires and runs rough. Not noisy though not able to get on the road yet. It's certainly running risc if it does run at all Remove the fuel tank, dump whatever is pretending to be petrol and inspect the interior. Then blow the fuel lines through, clean both the carb and the fuel pump, and install a cheap in-line filter somewhere accessible. It needs to be cheap and accessible so you can change it frequently. Clean the crud out of the tank, pickup and level sensor using your favourite method(the easiest and best is a new tank) and try again. Depending on access, it might be worth sticking a cheap inspection camera into the tank first.
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Grr, aaaargh, zombie thread.
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in
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Grr aaaaaarg Scaryoldcortina is back!
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I'm having same problem. I've git a car that's been standing for years.sometimes it fires and runs rough. Not noisy though not able to get on the road yet. It's certainly running risc if it does run at all Nearly a 13 yr old thread 🤷🏻♂️
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