ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,199
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Nov 20, 2010 19:56:37 GMT
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A nice bit of progress there from when I last saw the car!
It is looking tidier from the pics than it did before (although I would not have called it scruffy). Hopefully you will get to the bottom of your master cylinder issue.
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,521
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Nov 20, 2010 20:51:54 GMT
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There's a small hole drilled in the bottom of the bell housing that should have a small split/jiggle pin in it to stop it getting bunged up. If the slave cylinder was dumping all its fluid in the bellhousing you'd see leaking out of there.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Nov 21, 2010 14:21:36 GMT
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oh, wish i'd read this before i went ahead today and did it lol. I've took the slave cylinder off anyway, and the rubber seal had split, so am going to assume that is the cause. also fitted my £60 (!) heater valve from an XK120 so the heater works now, other than being silly stiff.
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Nov 23, 2010 13:08:13 GMT
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old clutch cylinder with split rubber seal... new one awaiting fitment...
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Last Edit: Nov 23, 2010 16:25:02 GMT by yantorsen
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Nov 23, 2010 16:26:43 GMT
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few more layers left to do on the steering wheel
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,521
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Nov 23, 2010 16:40:13 GMT
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Make sure you fit it with the bleed nipple at the top Nice work
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Nov 23, 2010 20:12:09 GMT
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Yeah don't do what I did and strip the slave cylinder, then forget which way round the bleed nipple / pipe connections go. They're the same thread!
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Nov 23, 2010 22:23:37 GMT
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not entirely sure I know what you two mean lol, could you explain a little further? Do you just mean make sure I get the bleed hole and the input one the right way around?
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Nov 23, 2010 22:48:31 GMT
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I think the bleed nipple needs to be at the top in order to bleed it fully. The slave cylinder can be rotated 180 degrees and still bolt up.
I might have muddied the issue with my comment - my cylinder is different to that one, and my mix-up was just down to my own forgetfulness.
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,521
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Nov 23, 2010 23:08:12 GMT
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Pipe into the bottom and bleed nipple at the top so that the air can escape upwards out of the cylinder when you bleed it.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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that's odd then, seems like the original was mounted sideways....
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,521
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that's odd then, seems like the original was mounted sideways.... Well, that'd be OK, its just easier to get all the air out if its at the top.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,199
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Nov 26, 2010 20:54:38 GMT
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oh, wish i'd read this before I went ahead today and did it lol. I've took the slave cylinder off anyway, and the rubber seal had split, so am going to assume that is the cause. also fitted my £60 (!) heater valve from an XK120 so the heater works now, other than being silly stiff. At least you didn't burn almost £20s worth of brake fluid to find the cause (as in my thread LOL). Quite a few changes I see .
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Lacy
Part of things
Posts: 247
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old clutch cylinder with split rubber seal... That split rubber is actually just the dust cover......It's only there to keep curse word away from the seal........which, judging by how wet it all is, has clearly failed anyway........Certainly looks like that's your problem anyhoo
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2007 Porsche 987 Boxster S 'Percy' 1994 Landrover 300tdi 90 CSW 'Connie' 2001 Buell M2 'Bertie' 1976 Kawasaki Z1000 A1 'Nobby' ....and my wife has some nondescript modern box of some sort
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oh, wish i'd read this before I went ahead today and did it lol. I've took the slave cylinder off anyway, and the rubber seal had split, so am going to assume that is the cause. also fitted my £60 (!) heater valve from an XK120 so the heater works now, other than being silly stiff. That looks remarkably like a thermostatic valve. That's what was on there originally? If so, very swish! --Phil
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Nov 27, 2010 13:07:07 GMT
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Nope the original didn't have the thermostatic valve, the new one is off a Jag XK120. Not really sure what I'm supposed to with it lol?? new slave cylinder on anyway... was gonna type some more but my hands are too ****ing cold.
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Nov 28, 2010 16:48:23 GMT
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car's developed a horribly loud squeaky vibrating rattly sound. Thought it was the heater pump until I smelt burning and then saw the dynamo on fire when I flipped up the front. So now I have another problem to fix. Out it came... Seems okay... Insulation stuff on the field coils seems shot, but I can't see how that would cause so much noise? Any ideas?
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Last Edit: Nov 28, 2010 16:48:55 GMT by yantorsen
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Nov 28, 2010 18:42:43 GMT
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From those photos it looks as though the bearings have worn enough to let the rotor (armature) catch on the stator (field coils). That can cause lots of noise and untold damage.
Personally, I'd be looking for a recon unit - or an alternator - as refurbing a dynamo can be a complete PITA. BTW, those brushed look a little short to me - not much too short, but enough to show that it's got a fair few miles under it's belt.
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Last Edit: Nov 28, 2010 18:43:09 GMT by jrevillug
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,199
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Nov 28, 2010 22:28:42 GMT
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Josh, if you can get your hands on a conversion kit (you may get away with the mountings but you will need a plug to plug into the Alt), I have a working Lucas Alternator from a Midget 1500 which can be yours . It worked quite a while ago, and I kept it aside for a rainy day (Midget got another engine with new carbs and alt all on the engine when I bought it ).
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Last Edit: Nov 28, 2010 22:30:56 GMT by ChasR
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Nov 28, 2010 22:37:01 GMT
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That sounds like an interesting offer, what is involved in the conversion?
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