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Ok, so I want to make an old games console of mine into a portable entertainment system for my car. Problem is, the console is a Computec Atari 2600 clone, and like a real Atari, only comes with Rf/arial style output. I have a small 12V screen that I would like to use, but it only has RCA inputs.
Are there any generic methods for converting RF into RCA? I've searched the net and looked into Atari modifications, but my clone doesnt closely enough match the chassis layout of the originals for me to be confident in modifying it.
thanks!
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Remade In Australia thereimaginarium.com.au
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I don't think it's that hard tbh. I was talking to a chap at a local I.C.E Shop the other week about doing it with an old Nintendo or sega. He was more worried about powering the Nintendo's (i don't know much about electronics some AC/DC stuff going on lol)
I maybe mistaken but i think RCA's will work just the same as the old style RF. the NES comes with both, I think u'd just need an adaptor cable from an electronics shop. It just splits the signal into different cables for better image and better stereo sound. Although the old consoles wont benefit it's more for the benefit of new stuff
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A lot of the old home computers have a RF modulator. Its a metal box that converts the signal to radio frequency so the TV can receive it. Theres usually 3 or 4 wires going to it. Power, video and sound. Ive heard that you can just wire the video and sound wires to the rca sockets. but might need a video amplifier to get a more powerfull signal. This only has to be a transister and a couple of other components. I tried to look up a circuit. Couldnt find one. Also found out that the Atari 2600 seems to be built differently than more modern consoles. So it may need some one that knows about your specific machine.
I used to have Atari 2600, 7800, 800xl, 65xe, 520ste. But got rid of them. Now only have the modern Atari Flashback.
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TS
Part of things
Posts: 558
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You can get RF Mods and de-mods quite easily. Its an extra expense but not too bad.
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I know I can get modulators, but haven't seen demodulators anywhere? I figure the demod has to be adjustable so it splits the right frequency
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Remade In Australia thereimaginarium.com.au
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Take your video output from the input line to the modulator. Chances are you'll have enough volts peak to peak for your monitor.
Demodulator? Most modern TV sets contain one, yet another silver can. All the electronics of tuner, IF strip and sound channel that used to take a pretty large PCB, miniaturised. I'm sure you can unsolder one, or maybe buy one surplus. However it is likely to be a lot more trouble than it's worth as you'd need some associated electronics for tuning voltage etc.
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"Jeremy Clarkson, a man we motor enthusiasts need on our side like Lewis Hamilton's F1 car needs a towing ball and a Sprite Musketeer" My motor
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Ray Singh
Posted a lot
More German exotica in my garage now
Posts: 1,993
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Go and ask at a Maplins store. They have all the stuff to be able to sort you out.
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I don't believe such a store exists over here. I talked to staff at Jaycar and they had no ideas
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Remade In Australia thereimaginarium.com.au
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Doing a bit of a www search I came up with this: a genuine Atari 2600 board. Your clone board will be different, but the part that matters - the modulator - should be similar enough. See the modulator, to the right hand side, the matchbox sized silver box. The upper edge has the RF output socket, the LHS has two wires going into it. One of these will be the +5v power supply, the other will be the video. Use a multimeter to see which oen is which, wire a video socket to the other.
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"Jeremy Clarkson, a man we motor enthusiasts need on our side like Lewis Hamilton's F1 car needs a towing ball and a Sprite Musketeer" My motor
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^WHeraldS.
You can easily get a modulator to go from AV to RF, however getting a tuner (or demodulator) separately is virtually impossible. Also, doing it this way avoids the reduction in (erm...) quality that goes with the tuning circuits.
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From what I've read I'm pretty sure it's somewhat more complex then that. I'm thinking I might source a genuine one and build a known output.
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Remade In Australia thereimaginarium.com.au
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Nov 11, 2009 14:31:22 GMT
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From what I've read I'm pretty sure it's somewhat more complex then that. No. It really isn't. Please believe me on this one, I'm an electronic engineer.
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"Jeremy Clarkson, a man we motor enthusiasts need on our side like Lewis Hamilton's F1 car needs a towing ball and a Sprite Musketeer" My motor
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I'll post some photos soon but unfortunately by box is about twice as large, with 3 outputs to the rf plug and 41 internal pins!
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Remade In Australia thereimaginarium.com.au
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Nov 16, 2009 10:41:19 GMT
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I'll post some photos soon but unfortunately by box is about twice as large, with 3 outputs to the rf plug and 41 internal pins! Lucky you! In that case, you need to get diagnostic. Ideally you want an oscilloscope to check what's on all those pins, but I'm guessing you don't have one so here's an alternative suggestion. You will need a piece of paper and a pen, a multimeter, and a video monitor of some kind with the video input bought out to a bit of wire. I would suggest a portable TV with a SCART or BNC/phono video socket, a CCTV monitor or even the video input on an old VCR plugged into a telly. Doesn't matter too much what it is, it just has to have a bit of wire that makes a picture show on a screen somewhere when it's touched onto something carrying a video signal rather than just an RF signal. I'd also suggest whatever you use to view the video source be old and disposable just in case you kill it, a scrap VCR is perfect for this as most of them will still pass through a video signal to the tv even when they no longer play tapes. OK, so you have the above kit, and your games console in front of you. Turn on the console, make sure it's working. Number off the pins on the paper, and check each one in turn with the multimeter to see whether it carries a DC voltage. I'd suggest setting the multimeter to "10v DC" or similar, putting the negative lead on the modulator metalwork and touching the positive lead to each pin in turn. Mark off the ones with a DC voltage on the paper, they are unlikely to be the video pins and they must not be conencted to a video output as they will most likely harm your TV, VCR etc. I'd expect the voltage you'd find to be 5 volts. You should be left with some pins that carry no DC voltage. These will mostly be connected straight to ground and will have no video, however you hope one of them will carry a video signal. You now want to connect those no-DC pins in turn to your video monitor. The monitor will have a co-axial input, connect the outer braid to the metal can of the modulator and touch a wire conencted to the inner conductor to each of your no-DC pins in turn. With luck one of them will bring up a nice picture from your console, you can then wire a socket to it and job done. It's worth saying again, don't do this with your most valuable HD plasma TV in case you accidentally fry it. Use an old TV from a skip, a cheap b/w portable, a knackered VCR, whatever. Hope this helps.
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"Jeremy Clarkson, a man we motor enthusiasts need on our side like Lewis Hamilton's F1 car needs a towing ball and a Sprite Musketeer" My motor
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Nov 16, 2009 13:05:16 GMT
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^^ I've used that test method successfully in the past It's also useful for finding audio ins and outs (with an audio amp) when converting car stereos to take line in/out. It sounds (from the 41 pin bit) like your console has the video processing and the RF modulation on the same chip but it's worth probing for a video output from it anyway. Course, if you do have an old VCR kicking about you could always run the console into the RF in of the VCR and the tv from it's video outs.....but you want to use it in the car, so that's not a permanent solution.
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in
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Nov 16, 2009 23:15:32 GMT
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^^ I've used that test method successfully in the past It's also useful for finding audio ins and outs (with an audio amp) when converting car stereos to take line in/out. It sounds (from the 41 pin bit) like your console has the video processing and the RF modulation on the same chip but it's worth probing for a video output from it anyway. Course, if you do have an old VCR kicking about you could always run the console into the RF in of the VCR and the tv from it's video outs.....but you want to use it in the car, so that's not a permanent solution. Yeah, I've had it up and running beautifully through the TV using the RF connection, but as amusing as it would be a VHS in the car would be a bit much. Will try to track down a scrap cable in the next couple of nights and give it a shot, the theory is simple enough. So you think the casing of the modulator/cover should be a fair ground herald?
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Remade In Australia thereimaginarium.com.au
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If the modulator casing is shiny metal then yes, it's almost certainly a ground connection. It's probably worth checking all the pins with the multimeter on an AC setting as well. It's incredibly unlikely you'll have any AC volts of significant magnitude on a modulator input but just for peace of mind before you fry your telly Video is <1 volt with a waveform like this:
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"Jeremy Clarkson, a man we motor enthusiasts need on our side like Lewis Hamilton's F1 car needs a towing ball and a Sprite Musketeer" My motor
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I remember theres a rat look car, think it was a vauxhall estate, that had a games console install in the load area. Was an Atari and a portable tv. made me laugh. Those big installs that they do on Pimp my ride are often too much. even if your just interested in the technology. Would be dificult to get all the benifit of it. I was going to install a games console and tv on my bike. I got a portable tv/vcr from freecycle. Was going to connect it with a joystick game. got a few of them. The Commodore DTV is my fave. But I have an Atari and a Namco one too. The tvs 240 volts. But doent need much watts. So could have got an invertor to go from a motorbike battery. I had the idea of mounting the tv inbetween the bmx bars. But the tvs a big old thing. So it would load up the front of the bike a lot. Be very difficult to park as the front would flop over and just fall. I used to have a butchers bike. thats got a big load platform. And a front mounted stand. So would be easier to work with. Think it'd be like the old hovis advert when I got to a hill though. As those butchers bikes are very heavy and usually single speed.
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you could just ebay your screen and get one with an RF input, they are not that uncommon.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Nov 17, 2009 12:29:56 GMT
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