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Oct 18, 2013 14:35:05 GMT
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I was planning on folding the edge first, then cutting out a small half-moon section of the step, then beating the rib into mine. That's how I've been doing similar parts and it works well, but I'm interested to see if Tony has any better way of doing it! |
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Oct 21, 2013 23:10:53 GMT
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Hi Tony would you beable to advise me on how to go about getting this V shape in my outriggers that i'm going to be makeing? i can't figure out the best way to do it ,so any help would be much appreciated. Here is a picture ![]()   my jacking points there in that picture, what a PITA job  |
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Last Edit: Oct 21, 2013 23:14:06 GMT by slammage
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Oct 22, 2013 15:42:29 GMT
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Did you make that (grey) repair section?
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Oct 22, 2013 21:05:21 GMT
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I love this thread, so I made a TonyBMW metal beating vice/folder:   Then I decided to make a 'normal' folder too:    So thanks for the inspiration Tony. Your thread is superb and your skills are fantastic. Now to tackle this:  |
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dazcapri
North East
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Posts: 1,061
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Oct 22, 2013 21:30:25 GMT
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I love this thread, so I made a TonyBMW metal beating vice/folder: Then I decided to make a 'normal' folder too: So thanks for the inspiration Tony. Your thread is superb and your skills are fantastic. Now to tackle this: Excellent job on the folders how did you make the 2nd one |
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Mk3 Capri LS
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Oct 22, 2013 21:39:34 GMT
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It's basically just 2 bits of 50x50x5mm angle iron with a couple of hinges made from some 7mm plate with a cut down M12 bolt for a pivot. I don't really have any plans for it, but it's a copy of the Sealey one that TonyBMW posted up a few pages back. I might add some bracing to the angle if it looks like it needs it.
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dazcapri
North East
Enter your message here...
Posts: 1,061
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Oct 23, 2013 15:00:02 GMT
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It's basically just 2 bits of 50x50x5mm angle iron with a couple of hinges made from some 7mm plate with a cut down M12 bolt for a pivot. I don't really have any plans for it, but it's a copy of the Sealey one that TonyBMW posted up a few pages back. I might add some bracing to the angle if it looks like it needs it. OK Thanks mate |
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Mk3 Capri LS
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Oct 23, 2013 16:47:03 GMT
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Did you make that (grey) repair section? nope was a genuine ford jacking point! |
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I have a tip regarding metal shrinking without a shrinker tool, which I was given to by a mate's dad who is a metal beater par excellance: Beat a few kinks into the metal, and then hold it tightly with molegrips against a hard surface (TonyBMW bender will do nicely!! ) Like so:  And then beat the kinks with a hammer until flat. It works a treat, it's how I made the inner fender parts on my car. Only thing is, you won't be able to shrink using this method if the panel has a curve on the other flange (it won't be able to sit flat against the anvil), so you should probably shrink first and then do other manipulations needed. It may still work if the curve isn't too big, I just put some shims under the kinks to beat them against. If using this method, it is key to press the molegrips very hard against the surface. |
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Last Edit: Nov 8, 2013 13:17:30 GMT by wheeler
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Nov 17, 2013 21:00:33 GMT
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Hi Tony would you beable to advise me on how to go about getting this V shape in my outriggers that i'm going to be makeing? i can't figure out the best way to do it ,so any help would be much appreciated. Here is a picture ![]() Chris sorry missed this question, I think you will really need to relieve the flange to create this V shape, just a cut should do it, and then form the V in an open Vice, and then cut and dress the flange to suit before welding it up |
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Nov 17, 2013 21:00:59 GMT
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I have a tip regarding metal shrinking without a shrinker tool, which I was given to by a mate's dad who is a metal beater par excellance: Beat a few kinks into the metal, and then hold it tightly with molegrips against a hard surface (TonyBMW bender will do nicely!! ) Like so: And then beat the kinks with a hammer until flat. It works a treat, it's how I made the inner fender parts on my car. Only thing is, you won't be able to shrink using this method if the panel has a curve on the other flange (it won't be able to sit flat against the anvil), so you should probably shrink first and then do other manipulations needed. It may still work if the curve isn't too big, I just put some shims under the kinks to beat them against. If using this method, it is key to press the molegrips very hard against the surface. Top Tip Wheeler |
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aij29
Part of things
Posts: 639
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Nov 22, 2013 11:26:30 GMT
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Hi Tony Just a question on dressing welds my mate is doing some welding on my polo and there's an inner panel that hes welded which will be covered by an outer panel, I know it will never be seen but i don't like the look of the weld beads whats the best way to dress this to make it look like its never been done?  Thanks Adrian |
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Nov 27, 2013 16:59:27 GMT
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i would like to add my thanks to tonybmw for his help in making me some repair panels for my car, they fit better than repair panels i brought and he was very quick to make them
cheers tony
:)allan
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Nov 27, 2013 18:25:16 GMT
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Hi Tony Just a question on dressing welds my mate is doing some welding on my polo and there's an inner panel that hes welded which will be covered by an outer panel, I know it will never be seen but i don't like the look of the weld beads whats the best way to dress this to make it look like its never been done? Thanks Adrian Adrian Its going to be difficult to get into that, Id probably recommend trying to use a Power file, or a die grinder. Id certainly recommend that anyone who is serious about welding cars gets a power file, they are completely invaluable |
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Fantastic skills Tony. I have just finished reading all your work you have been good enough to show on this site. I have a couple of queries on the subject and wonder if you could clarify them for me.
1. Although you obviously take measurements and draw diagrams to make your replacement panels or bits thereof,how do you go about getting all the panels orientated on refit. For example, on the Victor front wing area where you had to take layers of rotten panel after rotten panel off and then make and fit them in reverse order. The orientation of each panel is critical and any error will be magnified if any of the 3D angles are wrong by the time you get to the outer panel. What other tricks /lessons can you give, apart from having a photogenic memory of course. Photos can be helpful but at best are only 2D and sometimes trying to translate "the other side" is not easy and they can sometimes be different panels anyway.
2. You say in one of your entries that you prefer to overlap/joggle the panels as opposed to butt weld. Surely doing this should entail welding both panel edges so that water cannot get between them. Getting access to what would be the inner panel would in some cases be difficult if not impossible. Even spot welding leaves the edges of the panels open to the elements and can allow over time the rust to develop between the panels. I realise you can seem seal etc but would just like to know your thoughts on the subject.
3. Your invisible repairs are amazing but as the metal is only 1mm thick I worry that grinding and polishing could leave the metal a bit thin as regards the strength issue of the repairs.
Cheers for your time.
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Dec 13, 2013 21:22:58 GMT
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Fantastic skills Tony. I have just finished reading all your work you have been good enough to show on this site. I have a couple of queries on the subject and wonder if you could clarify them for me. 1. Although you obviously take measurements and draw diagrams to make your replacement panels or bits thereof,how do you go about getting all the panels orientated on refit. For example, on the Victor front wing area where you had to take layers of rotten panel after rotten panel off and then make and fit them in reverse order. The orientation of each panel is critical and any error will be magnified if any of the 3D angles are wrong by the time you get to the outer panel. What other tricks /lessons can you give, apart from having a photogenic memory of course. Photos can be helpful but at best are only 2D and sometimes trying to translate "the other side" is not easy and they can sometimes be different panels anyway. 2. You say in one of your entries that you prefer to overlap/joggle the panels as opposed to butt weld. Surely doing this should entail welding both panel edges so that water cannot get between them. Getting access to what would be the inner panel would in some cases be difficult if not impossible. Even spot welding leaves the edges of the panels open to the elements and can allow over time the rust to develop between the panels. I realise you can seem seal etc but would just like to know your thoughts on the subject. 3. Your invisible repairs are amazing but as the metal is only 1mm thick I worry that grinding and polishing could leave the metal a bit thin as regards the strength issue of the repairs. Cheers for your time. Grandadio Plenty of photographs can help, and I normally don't completely cut one bit off, until Ive made the replacement part for it, that way it helps when making the other bits aswell I use weld through primer on the parts first, then seam sealer on the rear and then flood them with waxoyl once its finished, Ive had no problems to date I would be the first to agree that it is fine line between grinding it just right and grinding it too far, if in doubt stop just before its flushed off |
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Dec 14, 2013 18:34:05 GMT
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Many thanks for your reply tony. Like you say, you cannot beat experience in the long run can you!
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
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Just saw this on the YouTube thread and, since I was reading through this yesterday, I thought it'd be a food place for it! These guys are awesome! Project Binky Episode 3 up. |
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Jan 10, 2014 17:46:38 GMT
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Id certainly recommend that anyone who is serious about welding cars gets a power file, they are completely invaluable I got a power file when I put the sides in my t25:  £50 well spent, flipping fantastic. I got it from B&Q. Tightarse tip - Buy belt sander belts at 60mm wide and split them down to the 10mm or so required for the power file, saves flipping loads of cash. That said I only used about half a dozen belts on the total t25 resto, they last quite well. |
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Last Edit: Jan 10, 2014 17:48:41 GMT by cobblers
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Jan 17, 2014 19:46:23 GMT
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Id certainly recommend that anyone who is serious about welding cars gets a power file, they are completely invaluable Tightarse tip - Buy belt sander belts at 60mm wide and split them down to the 10mm or so required for the power file, saves flipping loads of cash. That said I only used about half a dozen belts on the total t25 resto, they last quite well. I was recommended to get a powerfile when building my kit car (Stratos replica). Fibreglass, so nowt as difficult or clever as what has been shown in this great thread. Anyway, that tightarse tip might be a good idea. Not just for saving money, but to be able to get a lot more belts in stock, as they can break quite easily if the join gets caught or snagged in use. |
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--
John Rutter (aka Rut the Nut)
Owner/builder/some-time-racer of Hawk HF3000 Stratos Replica
Mitsubish-bosh Evo VIII (daily driver)
Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 (tow car)
Rally Co-driver/navigator, usually in mad seat of a BMW 325 (E30) in RWD Challenge
Rally driver (single-venue events) in Opel Manta V8
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