Making panels.......

Yes, I've done that part, leading corner of offside rear wheel tub. It's a pain because it's three sections that come together - the inner tub, the outer tub, and the back end of the inner sill that sits between them with a part of the structure nearby I think. I made them as separate sections, partly through obsession and partly to minimise how much I cut out at one time.

OK, this is nearside but it shows roughly the inner bit, this is a part of the structure that welds in behind the join between inner and outer tub:



This is the repair for the inner tub corner - this started as a flat sheet bent to fit the curve of the inner tub (the shallow bend), then had the flange bent in the opposite direction to join the outer tub. The lower part of this, where it bends to fit the line of the inner sill, had a wedge cut out and then re-welded and ground down:



This is the repair fitted, and below that the back end of the inner sill which I seem to recall fits between the inner tub and the outer. It looks as if I made a small repair section for the outer where it joins the inner, so I could weld them together from the inside. The remainder of the inner section was made later:



I did the repair the outer tub once the quarter panel was trimmed and clamped in place, so there's not much to see there. If you need any more photos let me know. I don't seem to have uploaded many

I don't remember on the coupe, this is the Sportshatch so it's an estate but probably the same or similar. Yes, I'd forgotten you have a big gap there.

Hmm, the bottom of the outer bit. I test-fitted the outer arch, clamped it in place, then made it in small sections to fit. It's hard work to make as one piece given how it curves back in on itself, then has a 90° flange to weld to the arch lip, so I cheated. I have one part that forms the bit from the join to the inner tub, then I have an L-shaped section that forms the outer bit. Fitted the inner part first, then made the outer part (in short sections all the way around) to fit. Quick weld to hold in place, then remove outer arch and weld properly around the outside. The shrinker came in useful to get the shape towards where it joins to the outer arch, but you could do it by cutting wedges out, curving it in and welding back together. I was fortunate in a way, because I'd removed so much of the outer section I could get to the back to weld it as well.

You can just about see it in this photo, although this was from the back end but you can see the welds where I've attached the outer L-shaped bit having made the inner parts in pieces. I've no doubt it could be made as one if you're really skilful, but this way took long enough.

My tribute to Tonybmw's lessons in welding I learned here:

This is my fourth revision of the housing for the E28 speedometer. But it looks like I'll be satisfied when I'm done this time. Í made this out of a piece of 0.8mm sheet.

I've not made enough pictures to show every step but you'll get the idea.

The electronic speedometer as it should sit.


The housing in flat steel:


Folded up:






Now it comes to the trick I learned form Tony:

Welding steel this thin is really difficult especially on the edges. So using a copper heat sink as Tony demonstrated.


Just after welding:


Using a copper pipe hammered flat and then formed in the same radius for the curved part of the housing:


Made the base plate:


Cut out the opening for the housing:


Tagged the housing on the base plate with everyting aligned to get the angles exactly right:




From the top:


From the rear:


And the front (note the original face is still on. The E28 260 km/h face is slightly smaller so it falls through the hole. I'll make a sticker to put on the E12 one):


So I might have gone a bit crazy in making this piece but it was nice practise and I've learned a lot. I want the details to be right so minimise the possibility of stray yellow light getting on the cockpit faces. The speedometer will be completely boxed in within its casing. A few more hours and it will be finished.

Thanks for reading.

That's the zinc coating burning off, you get lots of weird gases and contaminants when you weld it without cleaning back thoroughly, it does highlight just how far the heat does travel when welding.

BLU

Probably the easiest way would be to take a bit of wood with and cut a hole in it the same size and shape as the bulge and then gently with a hammer dress the steel into the hole on the wood, this will create the bulge and create the shape that you need, the trick would be to ease it down a bit at a time, rather than trying to bash it into shape with one or 2 hefty blows

Damn this thread ......! Every panel,crease and indentation I make has to pass the " Tony Test " now .

thread linky please!!!

We're going to make Tony regret he hasn't patented that bender