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I haven't been here for a while, that sill section is very similar to mine but I was able to avoid making mine in the end, by repairing the top step section and using a pair of thick replacement sills.
Looking around another forum, I dropped on this video which is pretty impressive. Granted he has a good selection of equipment, but even so.
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Hi Tony Just wondered if you could give any thaughts on this. I want to produce some arch extensions along the lines of the rear on this picture. Mt first thaught was to make up the arches to the shape i require, as you have previously showed and then produce the flare by cutting sheet into 'pie' shapes and forming individually. I have not got an english wheel...who has:) so would like to get creative. Regards Geoff Attachments:
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I would be rich if i had not spent so much money on Cars and fast women...oh, i did waste some of it as well!
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Jan 21, 2013 12:16:13 GMT
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I wonder whether you could use a sheet of steel for the majority of the arch, stretch it on the edge where it will meet the bodywork, and shrink it on the outer arch. Might be nicer than having a lot of welds across the whole width of the arch.
I'd mock it up in card or vinyl a few different ways, see which one products the best result and looks like the least work. Presumably it's for a car where you can't buy such arches.
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Jan 21, 2013 20:33:46 GMT
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Maybachman - I think your on the right track with creating the shape using a shrunk and stretched angle to form the lip, Id probably go as far as using some 3 or 4 mm diameter rod to form the basic shape first and then tack the new arch lip to it, this will hold everything in the right place, while you then work on the outer skin From there do as Droopsnoot says and use card or vinyl to work out the shape needed to roll it around to form the outer section, without the need to cut it into pie shapes, you will be basically forming a section of a cone, and given the thinness of the steel and the gentle curves needed, you will be able to form it over a bit of scaffold pole or similar, to give it the correct curve Hope this helps  |
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Jan 22, 2013 10:05:13 GMT
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I wonder whether you could use a sheet of steel for the majority of the arch, stretch it on the edge where it will meet the bodywork, and shrink it on the outer arch. Might be nicer than having a lot of welds across the whole width of the arch. I'd mock it up in card or vinyl a few different ways, see which one products the best result and looks like the least work. Presumably it's for a car where you can't buy such arches. Hi Droopsnoot.. thanks for your input..think thats the way to go! can get flares but about £1500.00 a side  |
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I would be rich if i had not spent so much money on Cars and fast women...oh, i did waste some of it as well!
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Jan 22, 2013 10:09:13 GMT
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Maybachman - I think your on the right track with creating the shape using a shrunk and stretched angle to form the lip, Id probably go as far as using some 3 or 4 mm diameter rod to form the basic shape first and then tack the new arch lip to it, this will hold everything in the right place, while you then work on the outer skin From there do as Droopsnoot says and use card or vinyl to work out the shape needed to roll it around to form the outer section, without the need to cut it into pie shapes, you will be basically forming a section of a cone, and given the thinness of the steel and the gentle curves needed, you will be able to form it over a bit of scaffold pole or similar, to give it the correct curve Hope this helps Thank you Tonybmw..ill have a go! ive recently found a 15" throat vice mounted english wheel thingy for about £180 delivered  so I'm thinking about getting one. I'm thinking that if the anvils are ok they must be worth that alone and if the frame is pants then i can make a good one. |
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I would be rich if i had not spent so much money on Cars and fast women...oh, i did waste some of it as well!
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Jan 22, 2013 12:22:19 GMT
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Wow, that's a lot of experimenting you can do before it's a better deal to just buy some. What's it off, if you don't mind me asking? And is that vice-mounted EW a one-off or could you point to where it's on sale? Sounds interesting if it's any good. ETA: is it this one from Chronos? www.chronos.ltd.uk/engineering-tools/2011/chronos-new-vice-mounted-english-wheel/I wonder whether it has limitations on thickness (just because they're mainly modelmaking people as far as I can see) but does look like it could be expanded quite easily for a deeper throat. |
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Last Edit: Jan 22, 2013 12:26:33 GMT by droopsnoot
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Jan 23, 2013 11:35:00 GMT
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Hi Droopsnoot;
Its for a Porsche 928...i have a couple..and I'm in rehab at the moment;)
Yep its that one...i do alot of modelling as well and have brought stuff from Chronos before, normally good stuff. My thought process was that if the frame was S"^*t I would still have the anvils, and could make my own frame! need to ring them to see if anvils are hardened or coated...will report back. Well reporting back...ive talked to chronos about the anvils and they are hardened, so thats good....but they are only 1" wide instead of the normal 2". Ive no idea how much difference that will make. Do You???
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Last Edit: Jan 23, 2013 18:20:53 GMT by maybachman
I would be rich if i had not spent so much money on Cars and fast women...oh, i did waste some of it as well!
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Jan 23, 2013 18:31:19 GMT
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No, I've just been reading up on another forum (metalmeet) and it seems the EW is very advantageous for making curved panels without cutting and welding, also for removing hammer marks.
I also looked at that one and thought "cut the frame top and bottom and stick some more tube in it" to increase the depth, but actually that might be enough for me. Just not sure whether I'd have enough use for it right now.
Really other than the anvils and the adjustment wheel, you could knock that up out of a bit of box section for less than £20, if you use scrap steel.
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Jan 23, 2013 18:38:29 GMT
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Metalmeet just makes you sick......doesnt it??? Yep its the anvils that are the problem.. i could tun them, there only EN8 Hardened but not for that price. Personally i think an EW is a tool that you use once and don't know how you ever got on without one:0)
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I would be rich if i had not spent so much money on Cars and fast women...oh, i did waste some of it as well!
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duncanmartin
Club Retro Rides Member
Out of retro ownership
Posts: 1,320
Club RR Member Number: 70
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Making panels.......duncanmartin
@duncanmartin
Club Retro Rides Member 70
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Hi I'm trying to replace the seriously rusty floorpan in my Beta. I've made a template in card (I nicked some arty stuff my wife was making boardgames out of which is why no mandatory Kellogs logos!), but I've hit a bit of a snag. The width of the floor is a little over twice the throat of my swaging machine (the one that can't be reached is the one on the side with the folding in it). I've attached a picture to demonstrate the template (the holes are where the swages should go - cut out so it's easy to draw onto the steel) and another to show how it fits into the swaging machine.  card floor template by duncancmartin, on Flickr  swager with template by duncancmartin, on Flickr Is there any alternative to trimming the panel right down and doing the sides separately or cutting it down the middle and re-welding before putting it into the car? I'd like to keep it one big piece if possible (and the current size is designed to run from the inner sill all the way across to the good metal at the trans tunnel). The metal I've got is 1.2mm zintec, so it's on the edge of what the swager will handle, but I've got some reasonable swages on test pieces, and I think it should be stiff enough with the swages and the bend on the sill side. You can just about see the folds to put the right shape into it on the sill side - the inside is just a slight bend. This is the panel now, just for amusement (the welding is not my work)!  rusty floor pan by duncancmartin, on Flickr Thanks for any suggestions. |
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If the machine won't do it, you've either got to split it into separate pieces and join them up, or form the swages manually with a blunt chisel. It will be harder to get a neat job with the manual method, of course, and will be more frustrating given that you've got the machine sat there. I think in your position I would probably form what I could with the swager, then finish the centre one with a chisel.
I had a similar problem on mine, the floorpan was one of the first jobs I did and the manual swages aren't very neat. I am actually thinking of cutting around them, making new ones and welding them in place just to improve it. All for a floorpan no-one will see....
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duncanmartin
Club Retro Rides Member
Out of retro ownership
Posts: 1,320
Club RR Member Number: 70
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Making panels.......duncanmartin
@duncanmartin
Club Retro Rides Member 70
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I don't fancy the chisel method. I've tried before and just made a mess! Here's an example of what the machine can do  swage practise by duncancmartin, on Flickr I guess I'll have to see how best I can cut the template so it will fit in the machine (and produce minimum extra work). :-( Cheers Duncan |
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I know what you mean, I can't picture how the guys in Thailand manage to make those VW Bus floors with such basic tools.
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Id agree with Droopsnoot, and try the chisel method for the ones that your swager wont reach, as trying to join the floor will likely create more work and a more noticeable repair.
And once its all undersealed and painted its unlikely you will notice it, the chisel method just takes patience and practice, and as the Thai guys have shown, you can get some amazing results
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duncanmartin
Club Retro Rides Member
Out of retro ownership
Posts: 1,320
Club RR Member Number: 70
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Making panels.......duncanmartin
@duncanmartin
Club Retro Rides Member 70
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I had a look tonight, and the metal where I have folded my template is pretty solid. So I can trim that bit off the repair panel, and then it will fit in the swager. So I figure that's the easiest thing to do. I'll have to grind down the old weld and make sure it's solid, but so long as it is, I can solve this issue and get on with the more complicated bits!
I appreciated your input, and I have seen some of the incredible things skilled people can do with few tools, but I don't have those skills, and I will have to learn a fair number of new skills to get anywhere with this project anyway!
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roybo
Part of things
Posts: 136
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May 12, 2013 11:34:19 GMT
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wow just read the whole thread and bookmarked it !!!! have you ever thought of
doing weekend classes i for one would pay
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1975 vauxhall magnum 1800
work in progress
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May 12, 2013 15:13:33 GMT
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roybo
Part of things
Posts: 136
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May 12, 2013 15:29:12 GMT
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for someone like me who doesn't weld,it would save me a fortune in the long run.....
go for it and i'd travel to you for a weekend course i've been thinking of an evening course at college but i think i'd learn much more relevant car related fabrication than welding at a college just have a think and let us know ;D
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1975 vauxhall magnum 1800
work in progress
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duncanmartin
Club Retro Rides Member
Out of retro ownership
Posts: 1,320
Club RR Member Number: 70
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Making panels.......duncanmartin
@duncanmartin
Club Retro Rides Member 70
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May 16, 2013 22:27:07 GMT
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A weekend course would certainly be something I'd be interested in... |
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so I'm thinking about getting one. I'm thinking that if the anvils are ok they must be worth that alone and if the frame is pants then i can make a good one.
