|
|
Sept 20, 2012 21:23:47 GMT
|
Cheers Tony, great info! Wnet back over the thread and saw the tool you made, so I'm going to weld a bit of pipe to some box steel to make a former for the rest. That should help reduce the ripples, but you may still need to dress it a bit. Make sure you post some pics once your done
|
|
|
|
|
75nut
Part of things
Posts: 512
|
|
Sept 22, 2012 20:38:16 GMT
|
So got on this today Tony. Found a bit of BMX piping ( I had cut some up to make a go kart for my daughter) that has the same profile as the swage and mounted on a piece of box steel to make a former. Swapped over form the big hammer to my proper metal working hammer which instantly gave a smoother finish, and then dressed it over my former with a flat head. Looking better. Last attempt was the best and the tip regarding the blunt chisel gave a better shape All welded in from underneath. In reality its all going to get covered in heavy stone chip so the ripples would never have been seen but I just wanted to know it was the best to my ability. By no means perfect and being as I was trying to match the alfa swages which is wide in the boot I think a second atttempt with a smaller swage would help get better finish. Many thanks again or the tips Tony!
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 22, 2012 20:45:57 GMT by 75nut
90 Alfa 75 3.0 V6 Cloverleaf 79 MGB Roadster 88 Saab 900i Convertible 94 MK1 MX5 1.6 05 Volvo V70
|
|
|
|
Sept 23, 2012 19:11:44 GMT
|
A Good first attempt 75Nut If you use a straight section of the tube next time to both form the rib in the vice and to dress it afterwards, you should be able to get it even better
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 26, 2012 17:55:31 GMT
|
Hi 75Nut, Here's how I did similar piece like You have. Original piece what I copied. First some measuring and rough shaping. After everything was marked up, I fasten piece over to couple planks. Pipe was used to set cap. I use a right lenght piece a thick wall water pipe and a sledgehammer to drive that bead. After I was happy my "bead", I put piece to vise and make bead a little neater (no picture). Then I use body hammer to shape bead ends. I couldn't find picture of finished piece. And it's waiting welding. BTW: Nice job with that Alfa.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 26, 2012 18:38:30 GMT
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 27, 2012 18:14:29 GMT
|
Thanks Tony. I Appreciate that. btw: waiting (like many others) updates of Yours projects.
|
|
|
|
funkyhunk
Part of things
Old Ford's R Us
Posts: 265
|
|
|
Yes, good job Vilppi, eisäa peitäa! It is really nice that this thread inspires so many to do good jobs with rust-welding and panel making. The quality of my welding improved massively after I found this thread. And it continues to amaze me every time I read through it.
|
|
|
|
75nut
Part of things
Posts: 512
|
|
Oct 10, 2012 15:28:32 GMT
|
Hi 75Nut, Here's how I did similar piece like You have. Original piece what I copied. First some measuring and rough shaping. After everything was marked up, I fasten piece over to couple planks. Pipe was used to set cap. I use a right lenght piece a thick wall water pipe and a sledgehammer to drive that bead. After I was happy my "bead", I put piece to vise and make bead a little neater (no picture). Then I use body hammer to shape bead ends. I couldn't find picture of finished piece. And it's waiting welding. BTW: Nice job with that Alfa. Cheers mate, I'm a div, took a simple job and made a bit of a mess, your way is alot simpler. Very nice job, still you live and learn next time will be better!
|
|
Last Edit: Oct 10, 2012 15:30:00 GMT by 75nut
90 Alfa 75 3.0 V6 Cloverleaf 79 MGB Roadster 88 Saab 900i Convertible 94 MK1 MX5 1.6 05 Volvo V70
|
|
Vogr
Kinda New
Posts: 2
|
|
|
Hi! My name is Vagram, I`m from Russia, Taganrog (A.P. Chekhov motherland =) My 24, I like body repair and making panels, I have some practic in restoration legendary old cars, my cars(Mercedes-Benz w123 `79, and Ford Transit `90). I`ve seen this wonderful board accidentally during inet surfing, when I look at yours professional works, I want to show you my decent progress in making panels and welding. Why? I want to show my respect for yours board, and add this topic content, because after reading it, Victor and Gold BMW E12 rebuild I`ve got new knowledge about metal shaping. Now, its photos about Ford Transit rear spring support rebuild, its complex repair, all rusted parts were cut off and making new, some of them paint by brown spray, another by acid primer, acrylic paint, seam sealer and asphalt If my work is interesting you, I can add another about my Old Mercedes(or posted link cause theme is huge) Thanks for attention, and sorry my English =)
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 6, 2012 9:50:12 GMT by Vogr
|
|
|
|
|
Vagram
That looks some very strong and good work on your transit, it would be better though if you fully welded the patches that you fitted to the floor, where you cut a section out it should be fully welded back again
where parts were spot welded in the past, then that is okay to stitch weld
Would love to see more of your work on your Mercedes, you should start a thread, I for one would follow it
Tony
|
|
|
|
|
Vogr
Kinda New
Posts: 2
|
|
|
Hi Tony and all members! Ok, I`ll show you my works, if you wonna =) About Ford... It is panel van with very high fiberglass roof, my garage gates can let in sedans, SUV`s, but not tall van =(, cause I should repair it on my backyard. When I welding inner box, lying on the grass, a lot of sparks, which co-producting my MIG machine, burn my face hit sometimes under mask and body... cause I want finish this "torture" as soon as achieve acceptable solidity level, no more. Although after that "head down welding training" me takes easy welding in normal position. I can went on my history for a very long time, but I am suggest to you see my Ford Transit in its blog www.drive2.ru/cars/ford/transit/transit_4th_generation/vogr/As of my favorite “toy” Mercedes-Benz w 123 `79, I`ll show you door repairing process here. I bought bottom parts of inner door frame, because make it unreality. Bottom parts of door skin I maked by myself. But first effort weld it on were unfortunately, because of overheating(I welding random 1 inch stitches, as Tony BMW and cooling) nearly surface was warped(What`s the secret, Tony?). Moreover after grinding welded parts were bursted, cause my mig machine setting and welding method was wrong and don’t ensure good penetration. I learning about welding large thin surface, and into second effort I was ready. I cut of higher old weld, make new door skin(cutting and bending on the manufacturing machine), making plywood templates from original doors skin sides, formed new parts, weld it with metal stripe for durability, grind and turning with hammer, dolly and special tool. I`m glad to result that try… As you can see I have talk about my MB more long as my Ford, cause I invite you in my MB w123 blog www.drive2.ru/cars/mercedes/w123/w123/vogr/journal/?sort=ascThanks for attention! Good Luck! sss
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 7, 2012 8:27:25 GMT by Vogr
|
|
viktor
Part of things
Posts: 31
|
|
Nov 13, 2012 11:27:44 GMT
|
Hello! I am very happy that I can ask questions to the professionals. Thank you for your restoration cars and a desire to share the experience! You do welding for panel joint to joint. How does this affect the strength of the seam and the whole construction after grinding seam?
|
|
Restoration Moskvich 401 (1954) and Moskvich 407 (1963). Sorry for my english. I will be grateful for the hints in personal messages.
|
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2012 20:03:27 GMT
|
Hello! I am very happy that I can ask questions to the professionals. Thank you for your restoration cars and a desire to share the experience! You do welding for panel joint to joint. How does this affect the strength of the seam and the whole construction after grinding seam? There is no doubt that when doing this type of repair, you have to be careful not to grind too much, or you will make the surrounding metal or the joint weaker, and always ensure full penetration when welding
|
|
|
|
viktor
Part of things
Posts: 31
|
|
|
But... You avoid using welding parts overlap (overlay) in the hidden places of the car body. Why?
|
|
Restoration Moskvich 401 (1954) and Moskvich 407 (1963). Sorry for my english. I will be grateful for the hints in personal messages.
|
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2012 20:16:01 GMT
|
But... You avoid using welding parts overlap (overlay) in the hidden places of the car body. Why? Viktor I do occasionally do overlapping joints, It really depends on the application and the car. My advice would be to do whatever you are most comfortable with and that suits your confidence the most
|
|
|
|
viktor
Part of things
Posts: 31
|
|
Nov 16, 2012 17:47:50 GMT
|
Ok! Thanks Tony. I understand you.
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 1, 2012 12:34:43 GMT by viktor
Restoration Moskvich 401 (1954) and Moskvich 407 (1963). Sorry for my english. I will be grateful for the hints in personal messages.
|
|
viktor
Part of things
Posts: 31
|
|
|
Who has experience in creating such a profile (sill)? Advise ... Thanks!
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 1, 2012 12:44:44 GMT by viktor
Restoration Moskvich 401 (1954) and Moskvich 407 (1963). Sorry for my english. I will be grateful for the hints in personal messages.
|
|
|
|
|
Viktor Your best bet on something as long as a sill would be to get a local engineering sheet metal workshop bend it up for you, that would be very easy for them But if you do want to do it your self then you will need 2 long sections of heavy angle, clamp the sheet between them and then bend or beat it into shape, as I have shown earlier in the thread Tony
|
|
|
|
viktor
Part of things
Posts: 31
|
|
|
Yes, Tony! We have a saying: You want to do it good - do it yourself! I'll try!
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 3, 2012 14:42:48 GMT by viktor
Restoration Moskvich 401 (1954) and Moskvich 407 (1963). Sorry for my english. I will be grateful for the hints in personal messages.
|
|
|
|
|
Late reply here, but I did exactly what Tony said - went and got it bent up by a local machine shop. They charged me about 80 Euros, the metal was theirs. The work was pristine
|
|
|
|
|