phil1380
East Midlands
Only the depth varies........
Posts: 51
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Forgive me for potentially stating the obvious, but can you not re-drill your exising flanges with the correct PCD for the new wheels ?? I always thought this would be a better solution, if possible, to having multiple sets of bolt holes seen in those pesky "aftermarket" wheels !!
P.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,871
Club RR Member Number: 174
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The hubs would have to be massive to drill to 5x130.
Matt
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,871
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Aug 15, 2009 17:36:36 GMT
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Somebody sellin 4x100 to 5x130 adaptors here. Might work out cheap to buy those then re-drill the hubs to 4x100.
Matt
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MrT
Posted a lot
Just who did Mr Hitler REALLY think he was kidding?
Posts: 1,773
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Aug 15, 2009 18:56:58 GMT
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Where's that Matt?
I did think about that, but that's gonna mean the car being up on stands for god knows how long while I get them redrilled (assuming it's even possible!), and the chances of any off the shelf adaptors being exactly the right width are pretty remote...
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Aug 15, 2009 23:11:50 GMT
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I love cookie cutters and used to have them on a couple of my Beetles......see; One issue I can see (and I might be off the mark as I have never worked on a TR7) is if the adaptors are significantly bigger than the font hub centres they may foul the brake callipers. Would look great and I had 3 sets of cookies last year including a set of 6inch wide but I'm affraid I got rid of them. They should be cheap wheels to get hold of though as they are either loved or hated. Dave.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,871
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Aug 16, 2009 15:10:18 GMT
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MrT
Posted a lot
Just who did Mr Hitler REALLY think he was kidding?
Posts: 1,773
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Stage 1 complete - I should be getting 4 rims tonight
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MrT
Posted a lot
Just who did Mr Hitler REALLY think he was kidding?
Posts: 1,773
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Aug 30, 2009 15:20:31 GMT
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This is gonna look so kool TR7/11 anyone ;D ? Here's one wheel mocked up exactly how far it'll be spaced out: I've taken pretty much all the measurements I need for the adaptors, but first a couple of questions: Should the adaptors be made of alloy or steel? Alloy is obviously preferable. Can I dispose of my original wheel nuts (they're huge closed-end things!) and bolt the adaptors to the hubs using recessed nyloc nuts? Should the adaptors carry new studs or be threaded for new wheel bolts? If studs should be used, are they just like the fine splined studs that are hammered in as standard, or should something different be used? Basically, has anyone got a set of 'genuine' aftermarket adaptors that could answer these questions for me? Ta, Dale
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PhoenixCapri
West Midlands
Posts: 2,684
Club RR Member Number: 91
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Aug 30, 2009 17:31:46 GMT
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Looks great Fantastic idea As regards your Q's I'd say make them from alloy for ease of machining and will be a lot lighter. To mount them well I'd use conical (tapered) nuts with thread lock as this will centre them up perfect along with a hub-centric design (adaptor centre bore same size as original hub centre) Obviously shallow nuts would be better to reduce recess depth I would then use standard studs fitted again with thread lock and the head recessed so they sit flat on the original hub - Ford places sell long wheel studs in M12x1.5 for not a lot of cash. Obviously if you made the adaptors from steel you could use bolts and a threaded adaptor, but I'd worry that the adaptor thread might get trashed sometime then you'd basically need a new adaptor - with studs you can just replace a stud, much easier. like so for the idea www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/manufacturers_subcategory.mhtml?category=wheels;manufacturer=hrwheelsAs long as the centre bores are spot on for the original hub and the porka wheels everything should work out perfect Good luck with it
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MrT
Posted a lot
Just who did Mr Hitler REALLY think he was kidding?
Posts: 1,773
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Aug 31, 2009 17:22:48 GMT
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Hmm... I must admit, I'm not completely confident about hammering a traditional splined wheel stud into an aluminium adaptor . Will that definitely be up to the job? Would there be a massive weight penalty in using steel adaptors rather than aluminium? Just looking to make sure I get this bit right as it would be a tad inconvenient if the wheels fell off! Dale
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Last Edit: Aug 31, 2009 17:23:55 GMT by MrT
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Aug 31, 2009 17:29:52 GMT
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That is going to look awesome.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,871
Club RR Member Number: 174
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The ones i've got use recessed taper nuts to fasten them to the hub. They then have push in studs for the new PCD. Also going by how light they are, and how heavy a 140mm diameter, 25mm thick piece of steel is i'd use alloy.
Matt
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