MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,789
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Whilst on the subject of carburration, I turned my attention to filtration. Currently I'm running K&N's on the stock engine, but they catch the bonnet and as these are bigger carbs there's gonna be more interference. Take one stock air filter housing; Discard original pansy ass filter elements. Fettle and adjust back plate until it fits the new carbs; # Take front cover, cut out original cold air ducts and weld in a 3" diameter pipe to accept mahooosive cone filter; The filter will now sit right up behing the front panel of the bonnet and should get plenty of fresh cold air
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Really ? Any idea which way they differ ? Surely it's nothing that can't be sorted with a change of jet/needle/spring, which I would expect to do anyways. Some of the mil specs had a plastic restrictor to drag the V8 down to 90bhp! Even without that a stromberg V8 will be about 15bhp down on an equivalent SU lump. The SU's run better and get better mpg too, although thats all relative with a V8 Landrover!
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Koos
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,789
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Were is the restrictor ? In the choke itself ? Physically, these look identical to the Volvo ones I've got, but without the silly bimetal controlled air valve to go wrong. They are early ones, without a load of emmisions cr@p attached to bring down performance. I've spoken to Chris Wittor (extremely knowledgable and helpful chap) and he rates Strombergs over SU's. Being a variable jet carb, it should only be a matter of adjustment (possible different needle profile) to correct any fuelling issues so long as the choke size is what it should be.
Kastner apparently got 160bhp on standard CD150's on a full race engine, although I find that difficult to believe tbh.
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Last Edit: Mar 3, 2011 14:01:01 GMT by MrSpeedy
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The restrictor is only on Landrovers AFAIK, so you'll be ok. Wittor a helpful and knowledgeable chap? Jeez are we talking about the same guy? ;D Ive been out of the Triumph scene for yonks, but his reputation way back was a grumpy old t***pot that sold over priced s/h tat. As for Kastner, he's American which means two things.. 1. He's full of prime quality, home grown, organic Bullplop. 2. Yanks used to measure their BHP in SAE rather than European DIN, so 150bhp will be more like 130bhp. The TR6 lost 25 bhp when it went from PI to Strombergs and a softer cam.... SAH & Triumphtune recommend HS6's on a Vitesse, not CD175's - gotta be a reason for that. It'll be interesting to see if Strommys and SU's make any difference on yours. Theres some good carb rebuild/setup/needle info here too.. www.triumphspitfire.com/carbs.html
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Koos
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I don't think strommies are particularly restrictive, but IME they are leaky, unreliable, expensive to rebuild, and have limited tuning options (fewer needle varieties). That said, assuming that yours have the right needles and are not worn (throttle spindles) or corroded (o-ring sealing faces), you can normally stop them leaking fuel and air (and dashpot oil on top-adjust models) with £15 worth of o-rings, diaphragms and gaskets.
SUs seem to be more reliable and in this day and age are cheaper to rebuild - there are more of them out there, so it's worthwhile re-manufacturing parts: just about everything for any SU ever made is available from Burlen. Leaks are less frequent, but more expensive to fix (replacement jets and holders on HS4s, or complete replacement dashpot assemblies, for example).
I'm considering moving from Stroms to SUs on my Imp, but if I can stop the Stroms leaking I might leave them until I can sort out some form of EFI.
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What about a 28/36dcd for your Imp?
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Koos
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Could do - but many are worn, and finding chokes in Imp-like sizes is getting pricey. I don't begrudge the money - but I don't have it at present.
One option is a Ford CFI throttle body on a 28/36 manifold - they share the bolt pattern AFAIK.
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Handy to know, thanks!
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Koos
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,789
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Oooh, I mssed this little carb conference over the weekend ! lol I can't remember my initial reason for going Stromberg over SU ( I think I was thinking the strombergs would take up less room, but not so sure now), but I'm here now, so I'll deal with what i've got and if they turn out to be cr@p then it's only £25 and I'll jst get a pair of HS6's. A rebuild kit for the CD's is about 30 notes, and I rekon a pair of carbs on restrictive manifolds on a 3.5ltr V8 producing 130-150 brake should be easy up to doing the same on a 2ltr straight six ! At the end of the day, the SU's will bolt on exactly where the CD's are, so it's no great hassle to change them. I too have heard mixed reviews about Kastners work, but I'm not following any one set of rules, I've been building engines for nigh on 20 years and know the basic principles of tuning, plus have a lot of input from my old man, who used to race tune motorbikes for the quarter mile (He was the 113th man to top 100mph in the UK on 2 wheels) and was involved with the D Type Jag too. I have also recently read the Dave Vizard article that someone (sorry, can't remember who) posted on here. Basically, I'm taking what I consider to be the best aspects of all the information I can gather, mixing it all up, and probably ending up with an engine that'll got like sh1t off a stick for 25 miles and then blow up !! Re; Chris Witor. I can only speak as I find, and in the past few years I've dealt with him, I have found him very forth coming with any information sought, and his prices on all I've bought have been competitive. If they weren't, I wouldn't have bought from him ! Simples ! Anyhoooo, It's time for a little update. Head now re-assembled; And I just couldn't resist doing a quick dummy build; Next on the engine list, is sorting out the rocker gear, checking geometry of the rockers against the valves and also checking valve/piston clearance. Also need to get my 'wrong' carbs rebuilt. lol I even managed to snag some 'Champion' red silicon HT leads to match the engine. How anal is that ?!
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Last Edit: Mar 7, 2011 21:01:41 GMT by MrSpeedy
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Looks good Speedy!
Will it get a spin on oil filter too?
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Koos
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Copey
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,845
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thats a damn nice looking engine! the airbox is very well done! nice one
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1990 Ford Sierra Sapphire GLSi with 2.0 Zetec 1985 Ford Capri 3.0 (was a 2.0 Laser originally)
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roofus
Part of things
Posts: 58
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Nice looking modification, great work.
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The paint job has gotta be worth an extra 50bhp, at least ;-)
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Koos
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,789
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Looks good Speedy! Will it get a spin on oil filter too? At this time, I'll be staying with the original filter setup, cos I either need to replace the cooler sandwich plate, or fit another adaptor to use a spin on, and I doubt there's enough chassis clearance for another adaptor and I'm not buying another one yet. I may look into remachining the one I have, if it's possible. I doubt the paint job is worth 50bhp, but gotta be worth 5 ? lol
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50 with the paint, alternator bracket and the fancy red leads ;-)
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Koos
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,789
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Mar 17, 2011 13:05:18 GMT
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Time for another update. Recently, I've been mostly rebuilding carburettors; before after You'll notice I've also made new fuel pipes I have also spent a little time fiddling with the bonnet to make it nearly fit You may also notice I've increased air flow to the radiator. It seemed a little daft to me to have nearly half of it covered up
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Last Edit: Mar 17, 2011 13:17:48 GMT by MrSpeedy
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Mar 17, 2011 14:44:49 GMT
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I'm jealous of your fuel lines! I've got a tin of brass fittings in the garage, you've inspired me to do something similar as some of the pipes on mine are dated 1991.
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Mar 17, 2011 23:29:08 GMT
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Loving those new fuel pipes!
The bonnets looking good too, as good a fit asa standard one anyway!
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Koos
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,789
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Mar 28, 2011 12:20:32 GMT
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Update time !! Had some time on saturday afternoon, so I got busy with the CutSaw and radiused out the rear arches. The resulting gap was then closed by welding in a strip of steel to bridge the inner and outer arches together. Seam sealer applied and a quick waft of primer to prevent rust whilst WIP Arch loosley screwed on again to check alignment. Nees a little notch around rear bumper but otherwise NTB I reckon. These will be 'glassed on and blended in to look more 'OE' And a moody 'stanced' picture Earlier in the week, I'd stripped off the front bulkhead, sand blasted and rust treated it, and then topped woth 2 coats of 'Smoothrite' satin black. Whilst the master cylinders were off I thought it would be rude not to rebuild them too. Brake pipes are also being remade in copper.
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,789
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Mar 29, 2011 19:32:26 GMT
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You'll notice in this picture there is a bit of a gap between the end of the arch extension and the rear bumper panel; So, I've added a bit on the end to bridge the gap and give me somethig decent to bond the arch onto. Whilst I was at it I let some new metal in where there was a bit of a hole !
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