|
|
|
I do keep looking at the trunnions on the front end, and as of yet I haven't come up with an easy(ish) solution. I know Canley Classics do a conversion but it's rather pricey imo and certainly clumsy looking. It's something I'll probably look harder at when I eventually get round to making adjustable wishbones for the front. Speedy, l've found that the adjustable top wishbone ball joint used by cateham and the ones you can buy from canley's use a Lada track rod end which had the same taper and a M16 male end the QH number is 11185. While on the caterham site they use a spherical bearing on the bottom with a holder welded on the bottom wishbone so that's what l'm going to use on mine and back the top adjustable.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2013 23:18:12 GMT
|
What are those wheels please mate?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2013 13:02:15 GMT
|
Just found this thread will be watching this it seems a lot better that the old uj system that I have on my Burlington Berretta. Always wondered what I could do with the rear suspension. I have seen a lot of people make up different setups but I haven't got a decent welder to do chassis work this look like a great base to start with.
|
|
|
|
stevietuck
Posted a lot
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png) ![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Never argue with idiots,they drag you down to their level then beat you with their expertise!
Posts: 1,348
|
|
|
Iv just read this from the start(you owe me half a day by the way ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png) ) and i love what you have done to it so far and what your planning doing to it too. I love the look of the front end it looks so mean! keep up the good work steve.
|
|
|
|
MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 19:31:55 GMT
|
Sorry Steve! ;D Thanks everyone else for the comments ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Anyways, mostly due to the sh1t weather I've not been able to get near this for a couple weeks months (and nearly cutting off my finger didn't help either!) ![:-[](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/embarrassed.png) but, with the RoS meet looming next weekend, I thought I'd better crack on a bit. - Nothing like last minute dot com eh?! So, new nylon and stainless steel lower bushes made for radius arm, ![](http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z21/plrdshw/DSC_1833_zpsced8a5b5.jpg) New R100 wheel bearings pressed in and secured with circlip. (Circlip is other side so any side loading is taken by casting rather than circlip) Also note, I added a couple of cut-outs to alow access with a drift for future removal of bearing pack ![](http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z21/plrdshw/DSC_1834_zps6087f858.jpg) MGF hubs fitted and small spigot ring to centralise the brake drum. ![](http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z21/plrdshw/DSC_1832_zpsd94e2d3b.jpg) And finally a trial fit ![](http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/398802_10151504146539887_1663796972_n.jpg) This is the first time it's been offered up to the car Looking a bit tight tho ![](http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/269395_10151504154949887_604510396_n.jpg) Some 'masaging' of the chassis may be neccessary Looking pretty good tho, so all I need to do now is connect the inboard CV to the Diff. These adaptors will help [a href=" ![](http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z21/plrdshw/DSC_1835_zpse891d000.jpg) "] ![](http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z21/plrdshw/DSC_1835_zpse891d000.jpg) [/a] Just gotta work out the pcd's and drill/countersink/tap as req'd and hopefully we'll be somewhere near!
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 11, 2013 20:54:53 GMT by MrSpeedy
|
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 19:44:54 GMT
|
Pics no worky..... ![:'(](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/cry.png) Thought the inner CV might be tight to chassis - mine is and it's much smaller...... Trust they do clear without too much violence! Finally - someone else who thinks that the brake drum centering rings are needed! ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Cheers Nick
|
|
1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
|
|
MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 20:52:37 GMT
|
Pics fixed! Nick, I can't believe people are fitting this kind of set up with no method of centralising the drums? What I ought to do really is skim down the hub flange to leave a new spigot for the Triumph drum, but I didn't really want to thin them down. I think just a simple clean off of the top flange and seam weld back together will suffice ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
|
|
|
|
MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
|
|
Mar 13, 2013 22:12:47 GMT
|
Well, an hour or so after work has resulted in the RHS being loosely fitted. Also the Spax shock is in place instead of that nasty lever arm damper ![](http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/p206x206/544660_10151508709059887_979749464_n.jpg) ![](http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/386185_10151508709094887_299005103_n.jpg) Shaft is all bolted onto diff (via adaptor flange) and all turns nicely. Just need to bolt up properly, reconnect brake lines and we'ree good to go! Oh yeah, then I need to do it all again on the LHS! ![::)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/eyesroll.png) Just for curse word and giggles, I bolted up a silly wheel ![](http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/199185_10151508709049887_1820893223_n.jpg) ![](http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/733816_10151508431904887_2104829167_n.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2013 23:39:04 GMT
|
Looks perfectly sensible to me!
|
|
Koos
|
|
|
MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 21:56:03 GMT
|
Took an hour off work this afternoon and managed to get the nearside all bolted in to ![](http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/734464_10151510476429887_323688410_n.jpg) All, I need to do now is to reconnect the brakes, bleed and hope everything does what it should! This will only stay together for a short period tho, I'm not entirely happy with the adaptor rings and length of the half shafts, so it'll be coming to bits again in a week or two for some further improvements. In the meantime tho, I wrestled two silly big tyres onto two silly big wheels, and then bolted them onto the car, just for a giggle ![](http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/181002_10151510476439887_129006335_n.jpg)
|
|
|
|
Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,524
Member is Online
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 21:59:00 GMT
|
Silly big wheels ;D
Is there enough clearance between the shaft/gaiter and the chassis? I'm sure you've checked but its hard to see in the photos.
|
|
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
|
|
MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 22:32:58 GMT
|
Ah, no, not really! Those pics are taken at full drop. At running height there is a lot more clearance but still rubs slightly. A simple trim of the top flange on the chassis pressing will deal with that, but I'm out of time atm as I'm trying to get it back mobile for the RoS meet at MK this sunday. It'll do for now, but then I'll take it to bits again, sort the cv joint clearance (maybe even a slight chassis notch) and I have a cunning plan involving removing the diff output shafts and remachining the flanges to accept the CV joints directly without adaptor flanges. This will give a little more clearance on the boots and also I'll be happier about the running position of the joints themselves!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 22:48:27 GMT
|
Those Carlos Fandango wheels need to stay! ;D Awesome fabricatinging skillz! Been follwing this - time to leave a comment ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
|
|
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,205
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 23:11:53 GMT
|
It is great to see that you have made progress on completing the CV conversion.
Nylon bushes on the lower arms. Did you take a few brave pills or are they not too terrible?
I shall admit that after driving my Spitfire with 'cheap' Poly bushes, driving a 1500 with rubber bushes all round was not a pleasant experience (it seemed to flop about everywhere, a bump made all the wheels go off in all sorts of strange directions! OK I had Spax dampers on mine, but I doubt they alone aided the driving experience (to further insult matters, the other 1500 was on 14" alloys shod with Yoko tyres!
|
|
|
|
MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 23:27:14 GMT
|
Terrible in what way?
TBH, it's partly me being tight (around £10 EACH bush for superflex) and when I built my old Sprintfire I replaced EVERY single suspension bush with nylon/stainless tubes I made myself. Yes the ride was a little 'firm' (adjustable Gaz all round again) but by christ, it handled like no other Spitfire. Scared a few people with that, who were convinced there was no way we'd make it round the corner/roundabout.
The way I see it, the more rigid I can make the back end, the more predictable it will be. I still remember now the first time I experienced a lift off induced drift at 80mph in the wet on a dual carrageway. The next week was when I rebushed the entire rear end!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 23:56:40 GMT
|
Could you lift te diff an inch...? Should be easy at the front, not sure at the rear.
Can you make suspension bushes? The Cappo club are looking for someone to make a dozen or so sets...
How much dish do the silly wheels have? :-)
|
|
Koos
|
|
stevea
Part of things
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Posts: 281
|
|
|
....Nylon bushes on the lower arms. Did you take a few brave pills or are they not too terrible? ..... It was my understanding that all the roto cars had nylon bushes on the outer lower arms as standard, just like the nylon bush you should have had between your rear vertical link and wheel bearing housing on your Spitfire.
|
|
|
|
MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
|
|
Mar 15, 2013 10:32:03 GMT
|
mdh, The thing you've overlooked there is that the rear spring is mounted on the top of diff, so you can see the problems there! Making Nylon/stainless tube bushes are no problem. I added a 6 1/2" wide band into the standard 3 1/2" Herald wheels. This leaves me with a total dish of 8"!!! stevea - I have a feeling you might be correct there. I seem to recall they have a nylon bush and funny 'O' ring water seal arrangement. Personnally I don't really see the need with stainless bushes!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2013 11:08:48 GMT
|
Oh nuts, forgot that. If you lifted it you'd get some nice neggy camber though! ;-)
|
|
Koos
|
|
|