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10mm OD, 1.3mm wall FEP tubing.
Tried a few simple tests on the plastic that broke.
It doesn't burn, it drips and deforms, and smells faintly of burning hair.
Now to try find somewhere that'll sell me it cheap.
Phil
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Feb 11, 2015 22:57:37 GMT
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Your tenacity seems endless. Where some of us would modify a spanner to get to a tricky nut you are making your own diagnostic equipment to sort your poor running issues, I'm probably not the only one in awe of those skills, keep it up please. having spent the last three days reading the whole saga I'm now eager for more exciting updates!
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It's going to be a bit of a fun ride ahead. I've had a word with a few people about spares, I've found a source of PTFE tube, I just need to find a suitable adhesive (it is possible to glue Teflon) but we have, as of this morning, some funeral arrangements to be taking care of. Bit of a pause for now, but I'll try to keep it updated  --Phil |
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jpsmit
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,274
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Sorry to hear of the death. In our prayers
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Feb 14, 2015 16:32:01 GMT
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Thanks.
I got a new battery for my verniers and measured up the old tube that broke in the window mechanism. It's 0.2mm different in radius so I'm hoping that's going to be not a problem when it comes to the gear meshing properly with the helix.
Loctite have a glue that adheres to Teflon, so if the physical dimensions fit, I'll order a longer roll of the stuff (bought a 12" section for $7 to test) and get it fitted up.
--Phil
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Feb 18, 2015 19:23:42 GMT
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Took another look today- forgot about the power steering reservoir. The coolant tank has a little peg in the middle to show the correct level, with part of it that sticks up to show max and min. There's the same sort of contraption in the power steering tank but the level marker's a window on the side (obscured) that I'd forgotten about.. I'm well below minimum, so the froth would indeed suggest the sucking of air from that point.
Going to grab some PS fluid on the way home and whack it in- I might drain it down anyway because it's filthy already- and see if that helps any.
It probably won't but it's worth a try.
--Phil
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Feb 19, 2015 14:07:08 GMT
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 Topped off so the pump doesn't suck air under load, the steering now works. What's more strange is it looked and felt like it was over, not under-pressure. I know hydraulics better than that.. why did I not put two and two together? Either way, it's leaking gently. A little more than I'd like, so the gearbox needs attention as does the power steering pipes. Fun times. Still, I'll take $4 of power steering fluid over a new pump or rack any day. Phil |
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Today was pretty good. Went see a friend of mine, Russell (below).  We got things going with some new refrigerant, shown here in the window chasing the oil through:  Which means now, when I select AIR CON it actually gets cold! Look! Condensation!  Important thing to have working down here. Even got a spare can of refrigerant which is now sat in the fridge at home. Winning. It was just low. I can drive around in climate controlled comfort now  ...had to tighten up the fanbelt also because it would squeak at idle as it took up. I can really feel it load up the engine when it cuts in driving down the street. However, it cycles properly, the fan cuts in, the computer pushes the throttle open a little to compensate.. all good. Just need to take the cabin fan speed switch apart because on full speed it's a bit intermittent, gets hot and smells bad. --Phil |
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Aircon works nicely. Drove to work this morning. Only negative is that at light throttle and low engine speed (~30 in 5th) the extra load from the compressor cutting in causes whiplash.
--Phil
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jpsmit
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,274
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That one in Oregon actually doesn't look too bad.. seems to be a fairly high spec car also, with sunroof. For $300, that's not bad, if it's not turned to brown lace underneath. "Won't run", lies. Worst it could be is failed timing belt. --Phil |
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tdk
Part of things
Posts: 967 
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What an inspriational tale. I hope the oafs that spannered this together in France some day learn of the love you've put into restoring the old girl.
Good luck, Sir!
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Thanks. The engine and gearbox was thrown together in France- the body was built totally at the old AMC plant in Kenosha, Wisconsin. There's not very much there now. I think all the buildings on Google StreetView now have been demolished. Map of the area around the old plant.--Phil |
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Last Edit: Mar 5, 2015 18:24:59 GMT by PhilA
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Mar 16, 2015 17:34:27 GMT
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Replaced the cracked, leaking tires that were on the car. Got the tracking done also as it was miles out.  New ones have a bit more flex to the sidewall, so the straight line comfort is vastly improved.  Gas station shot. Car will now merrily buzz along doing this all day:  Great photography there. I excel. --Phil |
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Mar 16, 2015 21:40:35 GMT
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I see it's moving quite well now!?!?!?
Any major things to be done to it?!?! Apart from a paint job of course...
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Mar 17, 2015 17:12:46 GMT
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Had to replace a vacuum takeoff bung last night that was causing it to run rough. Aside from that, it's going pretty well.
Need to redo the CV boots as they have both split and the brakes still kinda suck but I can bring the car to a screeching halt, just the pedal travel is a bit long.
And the driver's side window is broken again.
It's just little things, really. I'm driving it and enjoying it.
--Phil
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Apr 18, 2015 19:39:45 GMT
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Hi Phil,
I recently purchased a GTA myself and was linked to this thread. This is incredible! I'm currently on page 10 but skipped forward to ask one question, in case you didn't get my message - where did you source your cambelt and tensioners, and do you have any part numbers or info you could share with me? I have heard that R19 1.8 16v tensioners will work and a R21 1.7 cambelt will do the job, but sourcing even those parts is hard and I'm not sure that info is correct.
Anyway, cheers, and I will continue working forward in this epic thread to prepare for my own restoration!
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~Desmond
1999 BMW 528i touring
1987 Renault GTA convertible
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Apr 22, 2015 21:08:44 GMT
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Desmond, try searching on this aftermarket part number for the timing belt:
Melling B-0140
The Chrysler part number was T0 725 577, but they don't make it anymore and it's much more expensive. Search for NOS parts, but I'd give the Melling a try if mine needed replacing.
Cheers,
Rick
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Sent in PM, but for the help of everybody else
GATES Part # K015305XS is the pulley kit on Rock Auto
GATES Part # 5130XS is the timing belt on Rock Auto
Ignore that the pulleys say "Fits Renault Clio 1.9 diesel". That's what they used on this engine.
--Phil
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May 20, 2015 18:01:08 GMT
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When I search Rock Auto here in Canada, I don't get the Gates timing belt. I am guessing that is the belt for the 1.7L Alliance engine, which is different from the 2.0L belt used in the GTA. If I remember there is one extra tooth in the belt and it doesn't work, so count the teeth before you try something you might regret.
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