broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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We had a bit of a chat about the kit which plugs in. Just out of curiosity. One reply I got was this. I thought I had some pics somewhere. It's quite a large device.  And here's a printout.   Just like a "SUN" diagnostic machine I suppose. Such is my way, lets jump about between jobs. Dug out the rubber grommets to feed the loom through the engine bay and through under the rear seat. I cleaned them up installed them and fed the loom through. Following this I was going to complete the routing in the bay. It was at this point it was brought to my attention that I had missed a couple of repairs, some of the small tabs which retain the wiring loom had broken off and needed welding back on. With these three fellas reattached I also noticed I had someone managed to miss a great lump of painting. So i cleaned the area up on the inner back panel and painted that body colour. Yet another job I was reminded of before the loom could be installed was the requirement to de waxoyl the rear wing air intakes and the rear panel air box. I spent a couple of hours with a scraper and petrol soaked rags to removed it. Then I filled the rear panel cavity with dinatrol cavity wax and inside the side airboxes with a black harder waxier dinatrol. Its not had a few days of curing so tomorrow I should get the chance to feed some wires through! In other news, remember all that work I did on the rain deflector under the scuttle panel? Well what I didnt tell you was that although it was a good fit and sealed up, when I installed the wiper mechanism, the motor mounting tab was about 10mm to far south west. I had considered removing hte bracket and welding it in to the right place. But In the end I had pulled this panel back out for some adjustment later on. While I was avoiding doing this job, this came up on ebay. at £35 I was left with no option but to hit Buy It Now   The leading edge was shot, but as this was the bit which needed reworking on the old panel, it was something id have to make anyway. I hot footed down to the blasters and prayed id still have something to show for my £35. Pleasingly only 1 hole appeared and its not to bad to repair.   Sticking with the spirit of this, I havent done any more with that, but I got my spare set of stock wheels blasted and powder coated so that ive got some wheels to fit to the car while I work out what I'm going to do with my sprint stars.  And there you go, you thought you were going to read more about my wiring loom, oh how wrong you were! That's now the most up to date post. Though Ive got a big update coming  |
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broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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The paint just isnt ready and I havent returned to it yet. But I have been pottering away I cleaned out the rear wing and rear valence cavities and then reprotected with dinatrol 4942 and 1000 for the cavity.   With the continued fear of bumping into a painted panel, I made the decision it was time to recover to fighting room, so the gearbox was refitted. With a new nose cone mount.  And then the biggest space hog needed some love, this dusty curse word ran fairly rough and leaked like me after 10 pints.  The plan being, I know the engine was mechanically fine, it just needed a full regasket and all the tin needed a smarten. I measured the end float and its well with in spec. The firs fight of many was the exhaust, I believe I have joined a rather small club these days of people who have undone the primary heater boxes from the main silencer box. And without the use of an angle grinder. Over the course of two weeks these 46mm buggers were given liberal gulps of super crank and WD40.  I spent quite a bit of time with it clamped in a vice and swinging from a huge spanner. But all I managed to do was turn the work bench around. So at that point I fired up the burning gear and went red hot. Then still took me pre loading the spanner and then some hefty thumps with a hyde face to crack off and finally undo.  I have much more for you and I will give you what you are after later this week |
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Last Edit: Dec 7, 2018 13:41:18 GMT by broady
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broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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Right ive been up to my eye balls for weeks now and putting this off. So sod it lets have at it and do you a proper update. I'm just going to stick the kettle on and make a brew first. Id do the same yourself, its a fair size. See you in 5............... With the box jobbys undone I got on with the rest of the engine knocked down. And I really went to town. Fan flaps out.   Helpfully some yeas ago a friend made me this handy spanner to hold the dynamo pulley, its pretty similar to the VW original too and works a treat.  I seem to remember this was a runaway saturday afternoon, but if I'm honest I really cant place this on any particular day, other than to say it happened in November 2018. I seem to have developed a muscle memory with these engines and before i realized it was in pieces with out having paid any attention.   Then light enough for me to lift into the stand and take the heads off. Note the very black oil below, and that isnt from the tray. I shall explain in a matter of some photos time.  Other matters are pressing, that oil leak I told you about, and youve have since forgotten. Well I didnt want to split the block, but I made myself do it. It was so very well stuck together which is a shame, but the lower front corner had this delight. The oil had breech the liquid gasket due to the over heating incident. [img src="https://eelkkq.am.files.1drv.com/y4mET26MFn2croNRKLt-k92ExRlQSn7MF1JXaFMNHtYPwOL9bPr_5Hb0LqrZeXXTsdKV2NOTIY7MtpEQKVXvmKMXNVCNr7Eh5lHT7fYHi-TPqW8feFqg58I8qeu44IWi4QAXRGCL2U9_N ![]() "]xv9G28MxpsLRhLzbNA-V1DjDBfy5mvAr8x9M5GphVIfn44v9SuVa4vbqAxXT_NHgy8-jqmnARwnA?width=1600&height=899&cropmode=none[/img] So worth while splitting the block, even if it had taken up more time I don't really have. ANd after a suitbale clean up, yet again notice the very black much in the sump.  I rebuilt the engine up to short block and then added the barrels and pistons. That big pile of tinware brackets clips pipes ect all went of to the powder coaters, I took all of the exhaust system too, but just for sand blasting. This is an original system but I had just thrown it on the car without ever looking at its condition. Turns out it was a little bit sick. The small boxes should have a decent chunk of copper in there to seal it to the muffler, this had all but vanished, along with dodge joints to the heat exchanger and last but not least the curse word poor job someone had done welding on an original tail pipe into some old beetle smaller diameter exhaust. If youve stuck with me, the reason for explaining that is, I set up my engine with a carb balancer and CO meter, needles to say I had it running way over rich as the tail pipe was the last place to be emitting and gas. It had long since buggered off before it stood a chance of making its way that far through the system. End result coked pistons and heads, and the very grotty oil. To that end I had to do something about it, the type 3 had a bespoke tail pipe diameter so there was no way I was going to be able to borrow from the parts bin to make good. Not wanting to was years on a simple fix, I found this perfectly diametered exhaust repair section on ebay for four of our queens finest pounds.  Roughly a foot long wit ha 2 inch flared end I could make a sliding tail pipe. With not a moment to waste, out with the tube cutter.  I cleaned up the face on the silencer and with rough measurements.    Not as VW intended, but a quick and serviceable repair, once fitted to the car I will clamp the sleeve to seal it up. The heat exchangers were a less pretty site, though ive yet to do anything about these yet.  And just because I went to the effort of taking photos.   don't tell the missus, but i sat in front of the stove and masked off the black areas ready for the silver.   Ant some point during all this waffle I got a phone call to say my wallet needed emptying and I got this box of shrink wrap.  There has been much debate on these fellas (if you want me to waffle on about them do ask, but otherwise I will spare you), anyway my question wasnt to fit or not. It was regarding orientation. Those of you who can count will have noticed the 4 cylinders, and these chaps only have three wings.  My logic suggested to me this was the correct way around. Number 2 being well cooled if not best cooled. Closely followed by No.1  Where as 3 and 4 also share with the oil cooler, 3 being well know as the worst cooled. The little wing should direct a little more air flow around the head just to help a few degrees. Rational to my thoughts? Added goodies from VWHeritage.  Suddenly a long block.  Ive grown tired of typing this evening, I will finish the story tomorrow. |
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Last Edit: Dec 6, 2018 21:57:27 GMT by broady
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broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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Feeling a little more awake then. The fan housing needed building back up, but as it was nice and clean, this was a joy to do.  With the flaps and linkage reinstated.  And rehomed with a few of its other friends. Were racing through it now.  I continued the build up fairly slowly, making sure everything was properly aligned and every fitting suitably lubed to help me undo it when the day finally came, and to keep the fan flaps moving as they should.  A friend of mine recent visited California and said he could pop into ISP west if i needed any bits, as I want to revive the original heating system (hence the efforts with an original muffler ect) I had managed to collect all the parts required other than the two small diameter hoses which carry the cool air to the top of the mixer boxes behind the rear seat. I couldn't find a single UK supplier, but ISP stocked some so he brought me these back.  One happy chap!  Some hours later I got to this.  I had painted the coil the closest blue I had kicking around in the garage, its too dark but it will do for now and I even bought some cheesey stickers just because.  In pursuit of the heater system I had these mixer boxes cleaned up and blasted. I stripped the thermostats out and get them a few coats of stove paint.  And tested the thermostats on the stove, both of which open and close smoothly.  With that complete i rebuilt them, setting the correct pre load on the thermostat of 1mm. I just need to go fetch the gaskets Ive had made and they're ready to go on. Then there wont be much stopping me fitting the engine.   ANd so I fear we have caught up, well just about. I feel rather pleased with how its all gone. Though with an exam looming next week I can see progress coming to a stop for 4 or 5 days. |
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gess
Part of things
Posts: 220 
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Loving this thread!
I assume you will be one of the few people on this planet with a fully working heater system in your aircooled VW. The idea of using exhaust heat to warm up the car is brilliant and idiotic at the same time. Yes it will heat quickly but also fail in 9 out of 10 cars within too short a time.
I guess that if VW spent as much time and effort as you do on the heating system, that it would have lasted longer. Every aircooled VW I have been in contact with has been cold as ice in the winter.
Looking forward to the next update.
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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1971 VW Type 3 Fastbackluckyseven
@luckyseven
Club Retro Rides Member 45
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Engine looks fantastic  I spent quite a bit of time with it clamped in a vice and swinging from a huge spanner. But all I managed to do was turn the work bench around. So at that point I fired up the burning gear and went red hot. They still took me pre loading the spanner and then some hefty thumps with a hyde face to crack off and finally undo.  I'll add this to the list along with undoing rotary engine flywheel nuts and Beetle rear hubs to the list of "jobs more likely to break the Earth than undo the item you were trying to" |
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broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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Loving this thread! I assume you will be one of the few people on this planet with a fully working heater system in your aircooled VW. The idea of using exhaust heat to warm up the car is brilliant and idiotic at the same time. Yes it will heat quickly but also fail in 9 out of 10 cars within too short a time. I guess that if VW spent as much time and effort as you do on the heating system, that it would have lasted longer. Every aircooled VW I have been in contact with has been cold as ice in the winter. Looking forward to the next update. Why thank you for the kind words. The heater has always worked in all my VW's its dead easy to do. But this system on the fasty is by far the best. In the beetle is simply ducts million degree exhaust heated air into the car and you can either melt. Or be red hot on one side and cool on the other side by opening the 1/4 light. The little boxes with thermostats fitted to the fasty take hot air through the middle and when those thermostats open, cool air is blown in to mix with the very hot air which should give a much more pleasing warm. Rather than boil. Thats the part of the system Ive never had working. Mine has only ever been "beetle" spec haha Engine looks fantastic I spent quite a bit of time with it clamped in a vice and swinging from a huge spanner. But all I managed to do was turn the work bench around. So at that point I fired up the burning gear and went red hot. Then still took me pre loading the spanner and then some hefty thumps with a hyde face to crack off and finally undo. I'll add this to the list along with undoing rotary engine flywheel nuts and Beetle rear hubs to the list of "jobs more likely to break the Earth than undo the item you were trying to" Thats a good list, beetle rear hubs are easy (I bought a mr torque), its bay window camper ones that make the world spin backwards  |
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broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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Dec 26, 2018 17:20:07 GMT
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Boxingdate for you then, On a wednesday a few weeks ago I drove for around 6 hours up to perth for an exam on the thursday. I crossed paths with dave summers which was nice to put a face to the name. I think went to the hotel, a spot of revision and early to bed ready for an exam and a long drive. but 1045 thursday morning I hit the road for the 300 mile drive home. Arriving home around 5ish I needed to do some moving around, so I thought id treat myself to some garage time. Having lost a lot of time to revision in the previous weeks. Pleasingly this was one of those easy fits, the clutch and studs lined up very easily.  Just over an hour from moving it round the garage, under the car and then into the bell housing, a pleasing evening. With the engine in i could start connecting up the various heater pipes and cables. The keen eyed will have noticed I missed these tabs off the mixer boxes earlier, thats because I hadnt got round to painting them yet.   I also spent a little time in the IPC looking up correct screw specs and heres a few bag i subsequently purchased for fitting the mixers boxes, diagnostic socket and other odd bits like the brake fluid reservoir bracket  I then did other silly things like clean the lagging for the heater tubes. They look much better now they arent covered in waxoyl over spray. Shame about the frayed stitching but I'm not going concourse!  Another bag of goodies arrived, this time the flag terminals were to connect up the reverse light switch on the gearbox as straight terminals would hit the subframe, and the piggy backs were for the starter motor diagnostic wiring.  Much time was spent under the back end, my cars never had a complete working as factory heater systems, but having gathered all the parts, it was now time. Other such jobs were to fit the fuel line and install the filler in a much cooler area to help prevent a leak in the engine bay.  First up it needed the freshly blasted and painted exhaust system.       Before I went much further I though id see if it runs, so plugs out and a good cranking was in order. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jWQkQJ172go" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> And once I had the oil circulated I get it plugs and petrol. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1n66N0unptA" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> I ran, but roughly, it seems my carbs are very tired and the spindles leak, so that something I will tend to in the coming weeks. |
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Dec 26, 2018 17:29:55 GMT
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I have a rebuilt engine for a type 3 for sale i have bills for £600 i want £1,200 for it love yours
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Peace,Max signature height = 80px
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broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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Dec 26, 2018 17:48:18 GMT
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I have a rebuilt engine for a type 3 for sale i have bills for £600 i want £1,200 for it love yours Cheers, having been over it some years ago, this rebuild was a fairly quick job. and all being well its only temporary as ive got a couple of hot ones coming once the resto is finished Good luck with your sale, I don't recall seeing it on the type 3 and 4 club? As I'm one of the admin ill steering you that way www.vwtype3and4club.org.uk/forum/index.php |
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broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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Jan 20, 2019 18:29:33 GMT
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Quite a bit to update you on, though it didn't feel like it until I looked through my photos and realised how far id come. So the engine might have started but it ran badly, first fault spotted was leaky spindles, I didn't spend much time trying to sort any of the issues as the exhaust wasn't tight as I waited for this spanner to arrive.  This allowed me to tighten the silencer to the small preheater boxes. Then a couple of tidying up jobs underneath like fitting the rubber boot to the clutch cable.  I then thought id rebuild the air filter and set up the warm air intake. I put it in the oven with a thermometer set to 45c and then adjusted the thermostat until the flap was fully open. Just don't tell the other half! The carbs are away for a rebushing so the engine finishing will have to wait. All thats left to do under the back end was align the gearbox, which needs to wait until ive done the wheel alignment. But I'm a little way off yet! Lets look a little further forward then. Reading practical classics, their workshop section had a piece about overhauling small motors, more specifically wiper motors. That was all the motivation i needed to do mine.  Stripped down to remove the core.  After a thorough clean and the shaft lubed ready for the rebuild.  Sandblasted and painted.  Some time later after everything had been cleaned and lubricated where required.  As I was preparing to start building the dash up, it needed a quick flat and then a polish. I obviously didnt get much paint on as I went through the colour every quickly. So I masked everything off flatted and degreased, then put 3 more coats on.  About 3 weeks later and after alot of time in front of the IR heater. I rubbed down the one run in the paint and then polished it Its got a reasonable finish too it, I might revisit this in a few weeks to give it a further polish, I might not.   More to come, but i need to step away from the PC screen for a while |
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Jan 20, 2019 18:45:38 GMT
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Your dash looks great! I'll have to look at my wiper and heater motors. I'd not considered them.
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1966 Ford Cortina GT
2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
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Jan 20, 2019 22:14:05 GMT
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Yet again, excellent progress,
This is going to be a very high quality, usable car,
Don't stay away from the computer too long ☺☺
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BMW E39 525i Sport
BMW E46 320d Sport Touring (now sold on.)
BMW E30 325 Touring (now sold on.)
BMW E30 320 Cabriolet (Project car - currently for sale.)
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broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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Jan 21, 2019 20:55:14 GMT
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Very kind words both of you, youre always your own worst critic. but I know of a fair few imperfections with it. Still it'll be out for the work to see this summer. Be best viewed from a distance |
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1971 VW Type 3 Fastbackjohnthesparky
@johnthesparky
Club Retro Rides Member 6
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Jan 21, 2019 22:06:43 GMT
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Very few people will look at it as critically as you If I see it over the summer I’ll stand back a bit  Great work! |
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broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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Jan 22, 2019 22:32:57 GMT
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Thats all I ask. Though if all goes to plan, ill have improved the paint somewhat before it sees the real world. I hope I wasnt away from the PC for too long. Heres the second part of that update. Those of you with a keen eye will notice that my rain deflection panel is missing again. And you may recall some months back I manged to get a second one. Well now was the time to repair this item. It was at least twice as good of a starting point as the last one. And the last one never quite sealed. I ended up having two goes at installing it and had to use far more tiger seal than id have liked. Out it came. A different approach this time, rather than trying to replicate the original panel exactly, I more wisely focused on getting the profile I was going to make for the new one to match the profile of the car. Much like before I folded a nice long section of channel. Some hour or two later with a fair amount of strinking and general hitting over the dollys I was left with this.  A mock up with a few tacks.  After a little trimming it looked a little like this.  It then got blasted to remove any light surface browning, several coats of epoxy which was baked in front of the stove, seam sealed and a couple of liberal colour coats.  Installed this weekend just gone, it resulted in one small drip which the addition of some tiger seal has cured. I have pour many gallons of water through the vents with no issue. So I dried it all out and have left it to stand for a few days before it gets a liberal coat of dinatrol 1000. That should see thats job out the way. Which means I can then build the dash up, fit the fuse box, install the wiring loom and then steering colomn and fuel tank. Bit of a chain reaction to come I hope! In the mean time I returned to the forward section loom, I have bought an ultra sonic cleaner, it lasted all of 7 days, which is a sore subject at the moment. But ive used it to clean a few original spade connectors. Although not mint, they are much improved and clean on the inside.  But back to the amp carriers, I'm not sparky but that aint right.  I can find no reference to that wire on the wiring diagrams, but none the less its got a terminal number so ill figure it out later. I also had a spare plug with a wire in that terminal, so it was removed and fitted to this assembly. I then removed all the wires from the fuse box and dash switches to cleaned up the whole lots, wires fuse box and switches. It gives me the fun job of remembering when it all went. I hope I can neaten up this rats nest a little. Bearing in mine only half of the wires are connected here.  The final job worth commenting on for now is the installation of some switches into the dash. I spent quite a few hours wiping wires down with degreaser and cleaners. I thought id start the build with dash switches and start hooking wires up from there. VW switches have a special tool to install them. Previously ive just used a pair of a needle nose pliers and slipped and scratched my dash far to many times on too many cars. So being a grown up now, I made the escutcheon tool for the job.    Keep that chain reaction in mind. Ive got another exam this friday then ill be letting the chain react and see if we can get some rapid progress for a couple of weeks. Could it be a driving car? Even if its just in an out of the garage! |
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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1971 VW Type 3 Fastbackluckyseven
@luckyseven
Club Retro Rides Member 45
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Jan 22, 2019 22:46:31 GMT
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Ooooh, get you. Bespoke escutcheon in-screwing tool Actually, bit jealous of that. Yep, I scratched my dash  |
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Last Edit: Jan 22, 2019 22:47:07 GMT by luckyseven
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broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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Jan 22, 2019 23:02:09 GMT
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Its a jolly easy doerupper to make. The actual key itself was made with nothing more than a hack saw and a flat file. Then id just drilled a hole through the other end, slipped some round bar in and beat each end with a 2 pounder (reshaped the metal, because I'm a professional ) until it was wider than the hole diameter. For the 15 minutes it took, I wish id done it years ago rather than mullering the dash and the inserts like an ape. Not that I dislike apes, if any apes happen to be reading this. |
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broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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Its long over due, but owing to a very busy early part of the year at work and a bit of illness I haven't updated you. Though I have been getting on with the car a couple of evenings a week. Just not at quite the pace I had been. Some of it isnt the most photo friendly work, wiring ect. Right, we'll start with some shots of the carbs. With the engine not running well I pulled the carbs to bits to get the spindles rebushed. And while they were away I used the ultrasonic cleaner on the rest of the bits. It was during this which is cooked its self. And I'm still waiting for a replacement some 6 weeks later. As luck would have it, there is one at work which ive been able to use to finish this job.   Then a slight fastforward to a pair of repaired and fitted carbs, with a properly set up air filter. With the thermostat opening the flap at 45 degrees, handily set up in the oven (don't tell the boss)  Those with a keener eye will also notice the warm air pick up which isnt fitted to the engine. It was something I was sure I had powder coated last year, but when it came to engine rebuild time. I couldn't fit it, never mind ill get it done and it it late I thought to myself. it was only when someone else has problems fitting theirs when peter pointed out this needs to be installed before the exhaust system! curse word, thats something I will revisit once I'm road worthy. Its not the most critical or parts for now. In order to progress the front end rebuild I went for a petrol tank refit in an attempt to make it a running driving car. But more curse word!  It seems when the tank was blasted and powered coated, it revealed a few more pin holes. As a result its petrol containing capabilities are greatly reduced. I cleaned it up, silver soldered the three pin pricks and returned to the powder coaters. I also too my old tank and had that done. I looked at POR15s tank lining kit, which is enough to do 78L worth of tank, and once its open you can't reseal it. At £70 a kit it seemed a waste to throw half in the bin, so I plan to line both tanks to help with and future pin pricks. Thats a jobs ive been working through this week with the various cleaners which come in the kit. I began the rats nest fathoming.  I rung out any of wires which I couldnt fit on the diagrams, Ive got half a dozen bonus wires, owed to this back section being an injection loom and I'm running carbs. But I have re purposed some of this wires. More on that later. In order to connect up to gauges ect I needed a dash pad fitting. And as it was already cracked I figured any repair I did would be better than a crack, so I bought some plastic epoxy.    Once I had filed down and the fine sanded the filler. I failed to add any sort of texture, I cleaned the while thing very carefully with a tooth brush and panel degreaser. Then painted with black vinyl paint.   Ive no idea how long it will last, but it looks quite a bit better than a cracked dash pad. I plan to get my hands on replacement pad and recover it this summer. Next step was some instruments, which weren't in fairly good order to start with. I soda blasted the rims and give a few liberal coats of silver.  Freshly polished bezel and glass. Left me with this.  And finally for now the dash part way built.  |
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broady
East Midlands
Posts: 406
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Feb 24, 2019 20:46:55 GMT
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So I had a little problem getting the clock to push back in far enough to get the springs to click. This isnt a huge issue, but at the instruments hold the dash pad in place, i want it to seat. I pressed the gauge in as far as I could and marked the spring.  Thats no small margin, so I can only assume there were two different clock spring lengths. One of each type of dash pad. I know they later did a clock with an earth terminal on the back, rather than relying on the body to earth on the dash. So maybe the change was made there? Anyway, I simply trimmed the springs on mine to just above the line id drawn. It now clicks in just as well as the fuel gauge pod. I have been working through a number of small jobs, simply things like. Rather than screwing the earths of the loom straight to the body, which will inevitably seize, then result in damage to the loom as they screw is forced out. Ive screwed ring spade in and then changed the loom earths to spades.   I also re vinyled the A and B posts as the sun had made them crispy at best. And at worst burnt through them.  Its a pretty good match and once the head liners had a good clean, I think you'll only be able to notice if I tell you! The next exciting step was finishing the loom work, well just about. I wanted a couple of USB charging sockets hidden under the dash. Which sneaks in here, and Following VW wiring code of the period. Red for permanent live and brown for earth. We will see how long it lasts, or if I need to change it to a switched live.  Now a rare weird move by VW, the boot light was an option. And should you elect to have that option the factory wiring was to take a live from the rear light cluster. Some what strange as this would mean the boot light would only work if the lights were on and the boot was open. And generally I expect to be going in the boot before or after a journey. Which would mean my lights werent on yet, or id already turned them off and got out of the car. Thus rendering the boot light useless. So I planned to correct this and wiring it in a similar fashion to the interior light. Ie open the door/boot and the light comes on. As chance would have it, I found a green wire in my loom which is from the back of the fuse box to the right hand rear light cluster. It appears on no wiring diagrams, so Ive no idea what it was for. But Ive extended it into the boot and its now the live for my light. Thinking about it. I should have really connected the battery so it was turned on!  Ive also got some new nylon tube to replace the sleeving on the bonnet cable as it had split in two places.  So what else have I done? Well I planed to do this at a later date, but it seemed like hard work trying to find somewhere to mount a temporary switch for the washers. So I got stuck in, and again used the original wiring colours greed/red stripe.I was kindly given a wiper switch to play with. I removed the old pneumatic valve from the back.  And I found this little push to make in my box of electrical bits. It was a tad to big, but it proved the theory and I ordered a smaller diameter from ebay. All I had to do was slight open up the internal diameter of the old valve. and it would sit inside nicely. With the two terminals sticking out the back.  This is an earlier protoype version which didnt pass quality control. Still it shows what I was upto.   I set the depth of the switch so I wouldnt need to trim the plunger. Meaning if I ever feel daft enough I can return this to factory tyre flattening washers. The last step was to put the rubber valve back in, so it feels like the original to operate, but really is letting the electrons flow. And to avoid drilling any holes in the body work, I made a bracket which slips over the washer bottle. This wont be the final version as ive realised a few short comings. But you get the idea. And yes I have cleaned the waxoyl off the bottle  Ive been having problems with the brakes this weekend, I found a RHD master cylinder in my stash which I rebuilt to replace the LHD one which was fitted. It seems not to work though as the pedal travel is 7/8. ive set it by the book and even pre loaded with the push rod and had the rear shoes adjusted up to the drums. All of which made no difference. So I didn't get as much done as I wanted to this weekend. But the tanks are busy curing after a good work out with this kit.  its got a 96 hour curing time. It ill be friday before I can do anything with it. But it was great to use and it seems to have coated the inside very well. I will report back when I have some use out of it. |
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I'll add this to the list along with undoing rotary engine flywheel nuts and Beetle rear hubs to the list of "jobs more likely to break the Earth than undo the item you were trying to" 
