Greg
Part of things
Posts: 192
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Jan 11, 2009 18:33:01 GMT
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if you want perfect clarity then possibly justy run speakers in the front, but not in the doors pointing at your ankles The detail comes from the tweeters which you should have pointing at your ears. The problem with a big sub is you stop hearing the bass but instead feel it, listening to the radio is a nightmare the dj's voice is always full of bass, I don't want Terry Wogan massaging my ass however I do want to hear in perfect clarity John Squire's epic guitar solo's on the The Seahorses album!
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Last Edit: Jan 11, 2009 18:33:43 GMT by Greg
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Jan 11, 2009 19:37:03 GMT
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if you want perfect clarity then possibly justy run speakers in the front, but not in the doors pointing at your ankles The detail comes from the tweeters which you should have pointing at your ears. The problem with a big sub is you stop hearing the bass but instead feel it, listening to the radio is a nightmare the dj's voice is always full of bass, I don't want Terry Wogan massaging my ass however I do want to hear in perfect clarity John Squire's epic guitar solo's on the The Seahorses album! I usually have my tweeters mounted on the windscreen pillars at the base pointing forwards, i had some really directional kenwood ones but they were annoying cos the passenger side one needed to be pointed right at me and the whole set up sounded cack from the passenger side, so i'm running cheaper ones now that spread the sound out more. Thats why you have sub control though so you can turn it down when you want to listen to talking, my TV has settings on it for music, voice sport movies etc for exactly that reason, My current head unit has a DSP built in so i can flick between settibng sutable for various reasons, but even just a volume control on the sub will sort that problem.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,304
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Jan 11, 2009 19:45:09 GMT
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I agree that Philips is no bad thing (they used to make great top end amps back in the day (early 90s DAP gear) which now goes for near nothing and IMO represents great value, especially when the Alpine 3500 series (what the DAP amps are based on/same as) go for alot more. And yes, you can tune some speakers to do bass or buy dedicated bass speakers (like the Genesis Profile 69s, and some of the CDT 6" bass units, both (although those CDTs are great) do an acceptable job for midbass, and CDTs the lower stuff. I feel we're both saying the same thing, but are going about it different ways. As for tweeters pointing at your ear, that is very dependent on the tweeter in question. Some tweeters work great like that, others (like Focals) will have your ears bleeding within minutes (not literally :lol:). As for you hearing the bass from the sub, the problem is not the sub, but the setup of the system. Midbass you should hear from the fronts in a well setup system, and the sub should integrate seamlessly with the fronts. The last part is tricky to do, but nothing a a bit of fine tuning can sort. I used to listen to Terry Wogan, and (sometimes) Vine, and had no problems with the bass from the sub causing 'tub thump'. The stock subs in cars I found did do this, but of course, they offer no adjustment. I tried in my Pug to get bass, and to be honest, below 400Hz, I have one massive hole, as with engines, there is no replacement for displacement when it comes to subs. What makes me go for a sub now is that it is miles easier to take a sub out come resale time and sell the car off as it came from the showroom, as opposed to trying to fix rear holes (where they were not originally) or taking off door panels etc. Just my 2p anyway .
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Darrel
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,167
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Jan 11, 2009 19:52:50 GMT
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I'm looking at these myself as all you can fit in an Mr2 is 2 4inch ones in the dashboard and 2 3.5 inch pitifull things in the rear. Bearing in mind my exhaust I cant hear the radio on the motorway. Will have a look at the ripspeed ones to see if there any good. As for not needing a sub I would disagree. I think it depends on the car and also your music tastes. Ive had Metros, with just 4 6x's in them and it sounded amazing. Ive also had other cars that needed subs etc to get the same sound.
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Greg
Part of things
Posts: 192
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Jan 11, 2009 20:08:23 GMT
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Oh another tip would be to have a look at some blaupunkt gear on ebay, their headunits have hardware that reduces distortion on your speakers, I had one in a clio with standard speakers it sounded very nice. As for an MR2, we put a pair of Sony 4" co-axals in the dash and fitted kenwood 6x9 subs behind the seats amped it all up with an Alpine V power 4ch amp and used an Alpine CD player, we also used dynomat in the doors and rear firewall and the results were really good. To sum this thread up I would say for a quick fix use a sub but personally if I had to give my boss a lift and he put his laptop in the boot and saw a big grisley sub box with wires sprouting out I would be embarassed. A much richer, detailed sound can be achieved with dynomat and quality gear. Yes you can make a pair of 6.5" components thump in the doors when tuned right, IMO the bass sounds better when its coming from the doors and not your ass.
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Last Edit: Jan 11, 2009 20:11:39 GMT by Greg
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Jan 11, 2009 20:15:17 GMT
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for tiny diameter try focal 5" subs, there was a rash on ebay a while a back. or search out some infiniti uniplane mid-bass units for ultimate thin-ness, these had neo magnets and an inverted cone- someone mounted one UNDER the pedals of a calibra! maybe try an alpine under seat system? i was going to try one, or pioneer done a 4" sliding cone bass tube that acted like a car pistion giving the low frequency extension. sometimes I miss a sub, but there is no substitue for really good sound deading if you want it to sound good. I have got a rockford 8"xlc from a while back and that kicks it out for a little 'un, tiny .5 cubic foot box too. got a cerwin vega stealth 8 as well, punches as hard as my old eminence 10" ever did so don't let people tell you its all about the diameter
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Jan 11, 2009 20:21:40 GMT
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Wow, this thread has really developed now.
There is clearly a lot of experience and knowlege here.
In fact, I feel quite OLD now .
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mym
Part of things
Posts: 443
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Jan 11, 2009 20:28:07 GMT
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grizz.
best advice in this thread.
ignore lude and get registered on talkaudio.
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Jan 11, 2009 20:31:39 GMT
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My audio gear has been in about 10 of my cars so far, so its not like its a waste of money buying good stuff as you do tend to keep it, I dunno about thin subs though, not something I have ever used, I have a pair of "thumpers" I was given which are designed to go under the seats, they are not speakers but apparently just thump the floor for a "similar" effect, not tried em yet as they seemed a bit daft to me and I was thinkin they'd come in handy for something else, like building a gamig chair or something. See if you can set them to run 33hz then get a lady to sit on the gaming chair. See if the rumour is true.
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Jan 11, 2009 20:42:03 GMT
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I'm not really big into my ICE, I find Sierra standard speakers are ok, Just lacking bass, So i got another one of these (first got nicked years ago) from ebay as they don't do them anymore, Pretty small, Tidy and punchy!
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Greg
Part of things
Posts: 192
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Jan 11, 2009 20:43:32 GMT
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grizz. best advice in this thread. ignore lude and get registered on talkaudio. ;D I didn't say I was an expert, experience has taught me well, trust me, I used to fit subs in everything with number plates rattling and rear view mirrors shaking, I think the turning point was when I had a Omega Estate that was full of Philips gear from the factory, no sub just big ole components and an amp under the seat. and all I did was change the headunit to a cd changer and fit the steering wheel control adapter and Goldfrapp's Supernature album was sweet inside that car. Its all about cutting road noise out. Cars are the worst place to achieve sound quality, but subs don't have to be the way. If you want to do all that SPL stuff and the 150db goals fine, but for everyday use I'm not floging anyone a lemon and you shouldn't so blatantly write my advice off.
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mym
Part of things
Posts: 443
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Jan 11, 2009 20:52:08 GMT
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because your giving a black and white view of a subject thats got infinate shades of grey.
subs range from 5" focal woofers, to 34" subs just released at CES. so its safe to say there is something for everyone.
the easiest way for most people to upgrade there system is to stick a sub in it and enjoy the extra bass.
subs don't have to be about booming bass, but its what most boy racers want so they have got a bad rep for that.
as you put in one of your posts, "don't use a sub as you don't want the sound comming from behind you" well if its setup correctly you wont be able to tell where its comming from (below about 100hz your brain cant detect what direction its comming from)
in another part you mention that tweeters should be pointing at you, some are designed to work off axis and some aere designed to work on axis, again, time sent setting up would tell you which is which.
your experiences obviously differ to mine, i've run 4 amps systems with crossovers, EQ's and subs in them and i've loved them, you obviously prefer a simpler system, but to say that you way is the only way is wrong imho
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Last Edit: Jan 11, 2009 20:53:08 GMT by mym
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Greg
Part of things
Posts: 192
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Jan 11, 2009 20:57:28 GMT
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I don't think the original post was about big tunes which is why I advised accordingly, I could advise anyone how to build a competition system and advise them very well but that wasn't the original question was it? Original question was about underseat subwoofers, are they good, and my answer is high quality components run off a decent amp are better, am I right? Who knows but what I do know is its my opinion which I was asked to give. We're not talkin about balls out installs are we? In this instance, as in this thread right now my advise is relevant.
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Last Edit: Jan 11, 2009 21:03:11 GMT by Greg
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Lex
South East
日本車 <3
Posts: 2,404
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Jan 11, 2009 21:51:27 GMT
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Grizz, get on talk audio and you will get endless supplies of help.
For a clear setup (that can get loud and clear), with decent highs mids and lows i would run with components midrange woofers in the doors (with the doors/cards covered in dynamat), tweeters up on the a pillars, and a subwoofer in the boot with dynamat around the bootlid and floor.
4 channel amp, channels 1 and 2 to the comps and bridge 3 and 4 to run the sub.
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Resto-UKal
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Jan 11, 2009 22:29:02 GMT
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Grizz, get on talk audio and you will get endless supplies of help. For a clear setup (that can get loud and clear), with decent highs mids and lows I would run with components midrange woofers in the doors (with the doors/cards covered in dynamat), tweeters up on the a pillars, and a subwoofer in the boot with dynamat around the bootlid and floor. 4 channel amp, channels 1 and 2 to the comps and bridge 3 and 4 to run the sub. Thanks Lexx, and the rest of you guys. I have a few weeks before the car comes, and clearly need to look at all options, but I am not spending silly money, I just want more than the standard fitment offers. I am sure I will do a small thread in the other modifications part fo the site.
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Jan 11, 2009 23:05:54 GMT
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My audio gear has been in about 10 of my cars so far, so its not like its a waste of money buying good stuff as you do tend to keep it, I dunno about thin subs though, not something I have ever used, I have a pair of "thumpers" I was given which are designed to go under the seats, they are not speakers but apparently just thump the floor for a "similar" effect, not tried em yet as they seemed a bit daft to me and I was thinkin they'd come in handy for something else, like building a gamig chair or something. See if you can set them to run 33hz then get a lady to sit on the gaming chair. See if the rumour is true. Years ago when it was really hard to buy bass tubes in the UK we built one from a 400 watt 12" pioneer sub (big power back in them days) and a length of yellow gas pipe with a tuned port in the opposite end, it would go so low you couldnt hear it but it set stuff rattling on the shelves in the house, i tried it on my girlfriend of the time and it set her off, but she was one of those girls who's easily pleased, the vibe my XR4i picked up at 110 used to set her off as well so its hard to tell if the myth is true.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Mr K
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,993
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Jan 11, 2009 23:29:02 GMT
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Yes I always found this to be the best option, My Audi A4 is full of little enclosures in the doors and a 10" sub on the rear shelf it sounds excellent and on comparison my Honda has non of this and sounds rubish! ooo tell me more about your A4, my old 1.9TDi had rainbow components up front and a pioneer head unit, which sounded OK but the front door cards couldnt really carry the base very well. my new one has the bose 8 speaker job (components up front, rear shelf and rear door speakers) but the rear deck speakers are blown; and are annoyingly 2ohms so finding a replacement is pretty tricky!
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Greg
Part of things
Posts: 192
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Yes I always found this to be the best option, My Audi A4 is full of little enclosures in the doors and a 10" sub on the rear shelf it sounds excellent and on comparison my Honda has non of this and sounds rubish! ooo tell me more about your A4, my old 1.9TDi had rainbow components up front and a pioneer head unit, which sounded OK but the front door cards couldnt really carry the base very well. my new one has the bose 8 speaker job (components up front, rear shelf and rear door speakers) but the rear deck speakers are blown; and are annoyingly 2ohms so finding a replacement is pretty tricky! Hey thanks the Germans really do know how to build quality cars. Its a 2002 A4 1.9TDi 100 SE It has a centre speaker in the dash, component speakers in all the doors and a 10" sub on the rear shelf. I love this thing because it looks nice and is good for driving the kids around. For some reason though its abit steep on insurance, twice that of my Honda actually. Next family wagon is either the new Noel Edmonds A6 avant or an older E class diesel, maybe an 05 reg or something but in a couple of years yet.
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Jan 12, 2009 10:01:25 GMT
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Pioneer and Blaupukt have both also done flat fit subs similar profile to the Phase Linear Alante.
"directionality" with bass can also be due to rattles and harmonics picked up in the car. My old Rover was bad for this. Got the sub tuned lovely (12" Directed Studio in a shallow sealed box) but when playing in certain conditions you'd get vibration from the rear shelf and back seat frame which spoilt the integration. Shame as that was the closest to a proper SQ system I ever got to.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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