Banded Nova Steels I've won on ebay (safe or not)

Hey Man,

Cheers for that. I have a spare set of low profile tyres (195/45/14, 185/50/14 and 175/50) my local tyre fitted is well sound and he will try them all for me and i can test whtehr they seal and don't leak air.

I was considernig putting then on my potential track car, but even my daily is soon to have a wishbone conversion as well as some rose-jointed suspension goodies and i drive alot of country lanes so i would be giving it beans sometimes.

Not sure on the offset, they are normally 5 or 5 and a half inch i think and ET45 or higher as standard, I'm a vw man so dunno much about vaux wheels bar they are 4x100 and the centre bore is like 0.3mm smaller.

Standard VW offset is et35 ish, I'm currently running 14x7 et20 alloys and they sit fine in the arches these are 7.5 inch so i assume they would sit ok.

Are there several places that offer certification or testing for home brew banded wheels. I assume i could find somewhere that bands lorry wheels and get it tested through them.

And currently with the Coupe S my broker is Admiral, so I'm sure they would love the idea of banded steels =/ =[

I know the gentleman at widewheels, so i will give him a ring tomorrow and see what he says, he may be able to offer certification to them just need to find out if the cost is reasoanble enough to bother with and sack off running the wheels as the idea of putting wheels on at the show ground are ridiculous lol i wanna drive me little cars =]

i know its a can of worms but i apprieciate your input, nice one

ps. did you get an iso certification off somewhere for the amazon? or were you just at the stage of enquiring

I`d roll them. As long as the welds seem solid, and they hold air

if the weld has penetrated well (remove paint / powder coat and examine) and they ballance and/or have little or no run out (you can measure with a simple dial gauge) and they hold air then WIN.

you could check they balance by putting it on your car with the driven wheels in the air and starting the car in gear. should be able to see if they spin true.

I agree. Those are the cat's sack. Paint them black and put them on a hardslammed Mk2 Astra police car replica. ;D

well, banded steels, welded rims...etc......

if you don't know the guy who welded or you welded them yourself.......you need to , as Akku said.....get the paint covering off them and if you don't know what to look for...get them to someone who does...

as long as its a good weld there should be no reason not to use them.....the weld will be stronger than the steel.....as long as they are true.....your sorted...

PS...what happened to the muppet..?

They look like a bit of a pain to fit tyres on though, the well is in the middle not near the outside lip.

well thinking about it ,,,,i would imagine the wheel nuts to take far more stress than the welded seam on the wheel,,,,,and due to the weld being over such a large area i would imagine the welded joint to have more tensile strength than the wheel nuts (assuming the weld has as said pentetrated properly)

the side load on the rim when cornering is offset over the distance of the sidewall,,,,bigger profile puts less shockload's into the rim,,,,but generaly in a hard corner the force is taken by the bead on the inside of the wheel rim (on the outside wheel of the corner,inside having negliable grip),,,,maybe striking curbs really hard repeatedly with a really heavy car would bend the rim enought to fracture the weld,,,,

just found some maths stuff that may apply,,,based on a 300mm wheel well diameter

if the metal is 3mm thick and the weld circumference is 942mm gives an area of 2827.8mm square,,,,or 0.0028278meters square,,,the elastic limit of normal mild steel is 207GN/M so a normal rim will get to 0.5853 GN (59633 kgs) before its elastic limit is reached ,,,,however the problem comes when welded joint efficiencies are added to the equation,,,a perfect uniform bead will give almost 100% efficient joint,,,average quality welding goes as low as 70%,,,,,and birdpoop welding is probably too bad to classify,,,,anyhow if it has penetrated properly and is reasonably smooth to the touch (the weld that is) then you can expect at least 60% joint efficientcy (35.798 ton's) ,,,,supposedly joint efficiency takes into account of porosity and fatigue

(as normal the maths could be very wrong,,,,so would need someone who knows more about stress calculation's)

however i can imagine that the bigger the wheel,,,,the more weld area to apply stress to and so the stronger it would be