ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Jan 28, 2009 14:58:17 GMT
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especially like the lights, are they the regular irmsher double lights just without the covers or have you used different lamps? Just normal replacement twin headlights (Hella), without the surrounds and the mounting brackets have been cut down to sit them and inch or so further back.  ^^^^front one's been cut back, rear one as std. Would like to change the lamps to something better as they're only sealed beams so not very good (especially after being used to HIDs on my SX) - I have however changed the inner main beam units to the same as the outers, so i've got 4 sidelights, 4 dip and 4 main beams  |
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2017 7:10:19 GMT by ChrisT: replaced pb links
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Been working on getting the rear wheels to fit this week, which is turning out to be slightly more work than anticipated  As they're a universal stud pattern they rely on the hub centre to locate properly, unfortunately the manta doesn't have much of one on the rear (best pic I could find).....  If I wasn't running spacers then it would just be a case of using a spigot ring a couple of mm smaller to account for the tapered centre. Instead I've made up some adaptors which will fit into the spacers, housing a 54/63 spigot ring to locate on the hub and fit into the wheel with a 66/73 spigot ring (hopefully). Also been making up a couple of 4x100 plates to fit into the outside of the wheel, drilled out to take sleeve nuts....  All I need to do now is replace the studs with longer ones - got some +20mm ones on the front so I'll swap them over, and it might be sorted  |
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2017 7:25:22 GMT by ChrisT: Replacing pb links
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If they go on easy,they ain't worth the bother! ;D
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Feb 18, 2009 12:33:20 GMT
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True, but it would be nice just buy something and fit it rather than having to adapt everything to try and make fit Studs have now been swapped over - less than an hour a side to do which is good considering it took me a day to replace the front ones last month. Adaptor plates fit nicely in the wheels  Just need to fill the cut-outs for larger 5 stud fittings that are in the wheel as I think they spoil the look. Got some spigot rings for the spacers/adaptors and fitted them, one inside to locate on the hub and one the other side to locate the wheel properly.   All bolted back in place the wheel looks to spin true so they seem to have worked. |
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2017 7:24:04 GMT by ChrisT: Replacing pb links
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Feb 18, 2009 20:13:19 GMT
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I like this build because it isn't a 'normal' Manta build ..
Keep the picnic table , keep the front spoiler and roll into Billing this summer and watch the reactions .
Brilliant , keep it coming .
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Feb 27, 2009 18:26:02 GMT
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I like this build because it isn't a 'normal' Manta build .. Keep the picnic table , keep the front spoiler and roll into Billing this summer and watch the reactions . Brilliant , keep it coming . thanks, not sure it'd get onto the show field at billing now it's so low - although it has been there before looking similar, did get a bit of a reaction ;D Time for a bit of paint on the new wheels..... First I filled the cut-outs in the centre section to give them a smoother look  Not as easy as I thought it would be, just putting some filler in and rubbing down I found I couldn't follow the curve of the wheel so had to make a plastic template to follow the contours of the centre and spread the filler to the right depth. Next a layer or two of spray filler to level it all off  Followed by a few coats of satin black and finished off with some opel blitz centre caps (stickers)  dish just needs a bit more work with the scotchbrite pad..... |
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2017 7:28:46 GMT by ChrisT: Replaced pb links
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Feb 27, 2009 18:30:12 GMT
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Great work on the centres.....they look almost factory. Just noticed the title change too..  |
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Feb 27, 2009 19:00:47 GMT
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thought you'd appreciate that one
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Mar 28, 2009 21:41:35 GMT
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Been a while since I've had chance to do anything what with having to move garage and work weekends but got chance to do a little today. Realized the other week that I've not got any front indicators. Originally I had some side repeaters cut down and fitted in the slots in the bumper but that was always a bit of a bodge. After much deliberation and weighing up various options (LED strips, round indicators recessed in the top of the bumper) I decided the best thing to do would be to make the fog lights into indicators. Just fitting orange bulbs in the existing lenses wasn't working as I could only fit sidelight bulbs in there and they weren't realy bright enough for me so I found Vehicle Wiring Products were selling 100mm round lamps at a decent price and got a couple of those.  Decent enough unit (certainly for the price) with a good water resistant connector to the bulbs (LED versions). I hoped being 100mm diameter they'd be a straight swap but not quite  Rather a large gap round the edge of the light - could have pushed it forward more but it wouldn't have looked right from the side Had to cut out the back for room and access to the bulbs too  And to fill the gap between the lamp and the casing a bit of fibreglass filler - I found a lid that fitted just nicely in the surround to give a good edge......  After a bit of sanding, filler and paint the result is not too bad  Made up some L-brackets to bolt the lights into the casing and bolted the casing directly to the bumper   Light output even from the LED bulbs I've got (which are not as good as a 21w bulb) is pretty good, compared to the sidelight bulbs in the original fogs  While I was messing about with the electrics at the front I remembered a thread on here about adding relays and powering the lights directly from the battery. The manta came with a relay already but that's somewhere under the dash and the power feed to that is not very direct. Adding to this I've changed the headlights to give me 4 dip, 4 main and for sidelights (using extra relays, but still the same power source) so the need for better supply is greater, and the fact they're sealed beam units I need all the help I can get. The battery is in the boot so I'm taking power from the starter motor feed. Using 8awg cable and an inline maxi-fuse holder from Maplins I made this cable....  If my calculations are right (Current=Power/Voltage) then a 40A fuse should do the job. This cable splits at the end, with two bullet connectors, to some 9awg cable which goes to a couple of boxes containing the relays..  The boxes are mounted in the nose, not too noticeable but accessible if need be.  All seems to be working OK. Are they any brigther? I don't know but before I started I ran a cable straight from the battery to a lamp it was noticeably brighter than when using the old wiring |
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2017 7:38:55 GMT by ChrisT: Replacing pb links
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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May 17, 2009 18:43:42 GMT
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Hoping to have a bit more done by now but what with one thing and another (like having to do some gardening) it's not moving at a great pace at the moment. Finished off the front bumper, decided it looked a bit plain so added some stainless bolts between the two sections to break it up  That's with the MOT number plate fitted, got one a little smaller for normal use. And so onto the back. The top edge of the rear bumper being quite thin fibreglass with no lip to it had sagged quite a bit  Thought it should be a quite simple fix, just get some steel angle, rivet it along the underneath and it's pull it all straight, as per usual it didn't Only used 2mm thick angle (25x15mm) as I didn't want to add too much weight and it seemed quite rigid. But it made very little difference once in place....  Plan B - Borrowed a length of 5mm angle from work, clamped that to the top side of the bumper (which pulled it level) and bolt in some supports to stop it dropping back down.  This almost worked - after releasing the clamps it dropped back a little but it was better than before. Plan C (and maybe what I should have done at the start) - make up the edge with fibreglass/filler. Using the 5mm angle as a straight edge across the bumper I filled the gap with fibreglass  to create a level edge to work to with more fibreglass  After a skim of filler and a good rub down I now have a level top to the bumper   A lot of work for something nobody will notice but it needed doing. Need to replace the rear infill panel between the lights - the one I've got is obviously not original as it doesn't follow the shape of the lights very well so I'm thinking I should be able to make one out of steel, it's only a few bends......... Got the arches all done as well Where they had been bolted to the body they'd sunk a bit so they needed some filler work to bring them back in shape. Also recessed the bolt holes slightly.  In primer/filler  And finished  Found out last week that work is shutting down for a week in July so I've now got an unofficial deadline to work to as that week will give me time to get it off for MOT, hopefully....... and on the subject of MOT, I bought these....  Spring assisters to raise the bodywork enough to get it on the ramps/rollers - I usually swap the bumper for a standard version and remove the sideskirts but hopefully this time I won't need to... |
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2017 11:17:37 GMT by ChrisT: Replaced pb links
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sparko
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,627
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looking good chap. been thinking about spring assisters to get the front of my chevette off bump stops for a bit.
fancy taking some before/after shots of how much it raises them please?
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looks like it means businnes mate keep us posted
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smoke tyres not drugs
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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May 19, 2009 17:43:49 GMT
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looking good chap. been thinking about spring assisters to get the front of my chevette off bump stops for a bit. cut off the bumper stops  I'll be getting the tape measure out before and after I fit them - hopefully it makes some difference. Got them from towsure, just over £20 delivered so not too bad if they don't work. Got some paint on the rear bumper and stonechip on the inside (as with the front bumper and arches)   and the mock up of the rear infill panel seems to work OK  just need to tranfer it to steel |
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2017 11:23:11 GMT by ChrisT: Replaced pb links
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sparko
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,627
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May 19, 2009 17:51:19 GMT
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cheers fella, and there arent any more bump stops to cut ;D
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May 19, 2009 19:23:25 GMT
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You're mad for your chocolate cereal aren't you!
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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May 20, 2009 18:21:20 GMT
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You're mad for your chocolate cereal aren't you! I buy them for their whole grain goodness, the fact they're covered in chocolate is just an added bonus and chocolate is some kind of fruit (probably) so a big enough bowl full counts as one of your five a day so double win ;D |
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sparko
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,627
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May 20, 2009 18:23:35 GMT
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aye chocolate is made from coco which comes from summit that grows on trees so id say it was a fruit ;D
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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been thinking about spring assisters to get the front of my chevette off bump stops for a bit. fancy taking some before/after shots of how much it raises them please? Don't know if you're still interested but I fitted the front ones the other day. No time for pics, actually under there trying to fix an oil leak and failing so thought I'd try the assistors. Tried them at the top of the spring and that made no difference so wound them down to the bottom and that's definately lifted the car - could only just get the trolley jack under the front cross member before and now there's a good inch clearance. Will double check tomorrow, give it chance to settle and see if there's still a difference. |
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This thread is fookin awesome! Totally love the hard as nails Manta, excellent skillzor going on to. Respect, can't wait to see more progress ;D
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Thanks Progress has been slow, lost a little enthusiasm lately - not helped by a huge oil leak (oil all over the engine bay, wings, underside of bonnet, gargage walls and floor) think it is down to a split in one of the oil cooler lines so I've got new ones on order. Was hoping to get some red silicon hoses to match the rest of the engine bay but it seems silicon is not good for constant contact with oil - thought about using Samco Stretch & Seal tape to cover the new pipes but there's a good chance it'll look nasty so I'll just go with stealth black. Cleaned up the sandwich plate, oilstat and temp take-off while they're off and gave them a coat of satin black  Still working on the sideskirts, seem to be taking ages to get the fit right and I'm completely bored of rubbing down/shaping fibreglass and filler by hand. Taking advantage of todays excellent weather I thought I'd wash off all the filler dust (or rather I pushed it out into the rain for an hour or so)   Back end is sitting higher as I've fitted the spring assistors to the rear as well - raised it up about 1/2" which will help no end getting it on the MOT ramp. |
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2017 11:30:15 GMT by ChrisT: Replaced pb links
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