Hi guys,
Again, thanks for all of the replies, and the advice that gives a bit of confidence when picking up an angle grinder and sucking through your teeth.
Terraroot – interesting idea, and one that I can see working but perhaps posing an issue with the relatively small time frames I can allow myself to be without a car. However, I’ve a spare low mileage 1100 on a stand at the moment and wouldn’t mind having a stab at a turbo build as time goes by. I can see three shells just isn’t going to be enough!! I would hope that tuftridden and decked would give the block a certain amount of longevity [even with the increased revs] but as pappy always says, ‘the only way to get experience is by getting experience,’ so I guess that I’ll suck it and see.
I feel as though I’ve gotten much closer towards an outline spec for the block, thanks for that, so what are people’s opinions of what I’ve detailed below? If the mods want me to move it into a readers rides thread, then I’ll stick it over there, but I think at this point it’s still worth having it here for its general theme of small block / bigger bang.
Also has anyone had any dealings with Simpson exhausts? I’ve been recommended to go there for the 4-2-1 manifold, but haven’t heard much about them. Has anyone dealt with any firms closer to Bristol / the South West that were good for the same sort of thing? Not immediately urgent, but nice to get an idea of who’s doing what and when. Unfortunately my access to decent bench tools is a long way off again [Architectural workshops are great for cutting balsa but a bit of
when it comes to mandrel bending and polishing out welds – concrete lab equally redundant at this stage of the project
]
Engine preparation: I’m looking to recondition the 1117 engine, with all parts acid bathed and then chemically hot washed and cleaned.
Engine rebuild spec: Cylinder head – completely reconditioned [new valve springs, stem seals, valves, valve guides and head surface ground as necessary] – Fully gas flowed. Valve seats recut/new inserts fitted as required. An unleaded conversion [bronze valve guide inserts] if applicable or offer up a feasible and practical alternative. A matching set of machined seats and a set of new heavy duty valve springs.
Cylinder block – [Rebored and cross hatch honed with all new core plugs fitted] - A new, matched set of pistons, mains checked for alignment and ovality. Surface ground where necessary and rebored to 0.040” [think this is the safest maximum] increasing cubic capacity to approx 1150cc. Each bore cross hatched honed to exact size of each individual piston. Pistons fully balanced.
Crankshaft – Reground to bottom limits available and polished. All new, matched set of mains and big end shells.
Con rods – Crack tested and checked for alignment and ovality in big end housing. Fully balanced and lightened. Tuftridden
Camshaft – I was looking into running a Kent Cams FTS2 camshaft that I thought would be suitable for this type of application. Either this or fitting an equal alternative? I take it that I haven’t the room beneath the cover to run a vernier gear so I guess offset dowels are my only option?
Timing chain and tensioner – New
Oil pump – New, blueprinted
Carburettor – Fitting the Webber DCNFs as fitted to the Series X Fiesta. Jetted for the 1100 these came off a working car, and come complete with linkages, filter, air box and air box bracket. They would require setting up on the engine once built up and re-choking/re-jetting for this application.
Engine balance – Half balance [pistons and con rods] and bottom end balance [crankshaft assembly, refaced flywheel and pressure plate]
Piston CROWNs “decked”
Exhaust – I am currently running an Ashley system on the car but this suffers from a home made [read ‘it’ll do bodge’] link between standard manifold and performance system. Looking to run a 4-2-1 manifold into this system as apart from the blow at the weak link it’s in great shape.
So what do we think?
Again, thanks for all of the replies, and the advice that gives a bit of confidence when picking up an angle grinder and sucking through your teeth.
Terraroot – interesting idea, and one that I can see working but perhaps posing an issue with the relatively small time frames I can allow myself to be without a car. However, I’ve a spare low mileage 1100 on a stand at the moment and wouldn’t mind having a stab at a turbo build as time goes by. I can see three shells just isn’t going to be enough!! I would hope that tuftridden and decked would give the block a certain amount of longevity [even with the increased revs] but as pappy always says, ‘the only way to get experience is by getting experience,’ so I guess that I’ll suck it and see.
I feel as though I’ve gotten much closer towards an outline spec for the block, thanks for that, so what are people’s opinions of what I’ve detailed below? If the mods want me to move it into a readers rides thread, then I’ll stick it over there, but I think at this point it’s still worth having it here for its general theme of small block / bigger bang.
Also has anyone had any dealings with Simpson exhausts? I’ve been recommended to go there for the 4-2-1 manifold, but haven’t heard much about them. Has anyone dealt with any firms closer to Bristol / the South West that were good for the same sort of thing? Not immediately urgent, but nice to get an idea of who’s doing what and when. Unfortunately my access to decent bench tools is a long way off again [Architectural workshops are great for cutting balsa but a bit of
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Engine preparation: I’m looking to recondition the 1117 engine, with all parts acid bathed and then chemically hot washed and cleaned.
Engine rebuild spec: Cylinder head – completely reconditioned [new valve springs, stem seals, valves, valve guides and head surface ground as necessary] – Fully gas flowed. Valve seats recut/new inserts fitted as required. An unleaded conversion [bronze valve guide inserts] if applicable or offer up a feasible and practical alternative. A matching set of machined seats and a set of new heavy duty valve springs.
Cylinder block – [Rebored and cross hatch honed with all new core plugs fitted] - A new, matched set of pistons, mains checked for alignment and ovality. Surface ground where necessary and rebored to 0.040” [think this is the safest maximum] increasing cubic capacity to approx 1150cc. Each bore cross hatched honed to exact size of each individual piston. Pistons fully balanced.
Crankshaft – Reground to bottom limits available and polished. All new, matched set of mains and big end shells.
Con rods – Crack tested and checked for alignment and ovality in big end housing. Fully balanced and lightened. Tuftridden
Camshaft – I was looking into running a Kent Cams FTS2 camshaft that I thought would be suitable for this type of application. Either this or fitting an equal alternative? I take it that I haven’t the room beneath the cover to run a vernier gear so I guess offset dowels are my only option?
Timing chain and tensioner – New
Oil pump – New, blueprinted
Carburettor – Fitting the Webber DCNFs as fitted to the Series X Fiesta. Jetted for the 1100 these came off a working car, and come complete with linkages, filter, air box and air box bracket. They would require setting up on the engine once built up and re-choking/re-jetting for this application.
Engine balance – Half balance [pistons and con rods] and bottom end balance [crankshaft assembly, refaced flywheel and pressure plate]
Piston CROWNs “decked”
Exhaust – I am currently running an Ashley system on the car but this suffers from a home made [read ‘it’ll do bodge’] link between standard manifold and performance system. Looking to run a 4-2-1 manifold into this system as apart from the blow at the weak link it’s in great shape.
So what do we think?