sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 17, 2009 18:45:09 GMT
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I probably spent about an hour this morning dressing the big hole I cut yesterday so it's profile matched the passenger side, and all the edges ready to weld a plate to. I didn't want to be burnt by mig splatter underneath the car so I turned back to the exhaust. Using the new elbows and some existing ones I already had, I fabricated two up and over exhaust pieces, spent about an hour fetling them and tacking and fetling some more until they both fitted snugly between the front section and both cherrybombs, then run out of mig wire just as I was seam welding the second exhaust piece , but at least it was solid, so I culd fit them both: I'm really pleased with how the exhaust fits, now the cars dropped back down on the ground so I can get on with the rest of it.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 18, 2009 18:56:03 GMT
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archieboy
Posted a lot
Volvo Amazon 2 door
Posts: 1,168
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Sept 18, 2009 19:31:22 GMT
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Wow! just had look through the whole built so far, its bleeding awesome Great work, stuff i could only dream of
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 26, 2009 22:11:06 GMT
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Sept 27, 2009 0:39:24 GMT
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that looks mean, epic stance very nice
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2001 Micra 998 - Daily
1986 Mini Mayfair 998 - Former Daily - Garaged
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 27, 2009 7:37:28 GMT
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Cheers Stance wise, the front sits about 1/2" higher at the front, and with the dropping roofline looks a bit pants. Either I raise the rear a little to make up the difference, or drop the front, or even possibly both? Not sure either way yet, but when the new engine goes in, it should pull the front down by possibly 1/2" - 1". Now the bumpers are black, I don't know whether I should paint the chrome light surrounds black, or leave them shiny? It's one of those things that could work either way, but I've got a spare set of lights so I could always paint them and try it.
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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Sept 27, 2009 9:07:34 GMT
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All looks fab!
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Sept 27, 2009 9:36:41 GMT
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Awesome build................
It just gets better every time i look...
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The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 27, 2009 13:53:29 GMT
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Thanks ;D Work on it will slow down a bit now, as the mini seems to be taking up a bit more of my time now. I've been busy clearing out the interior today, ready so that I can tip it up on it's side to finish a bit of the welding underneath, and while I was at it, I've temporarilly fitted the numberplate, numberplate light and rear reflectors. I'm thinking the brightwork should stay now, as it contrasts well with the black bumpers, but I'm still undecided. I'll post some pictures later. At the current rate of progress, I should be getting it mot'd sometime this year. Once that's done, I can turn my attention to building the engine
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Sept 27, 2009 18:14:10 GMT
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Are you going to fit a balance pipe in the exhaust? improves torque at low revs no end.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 28, 2009 17:45:26 GMT
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Are you going to fit a balance pipe in the exhaust? improves torque at low revs no end. I've read that balance pipes do work on true twin systems, but surely it shouldn't make any difference on what I've built or am I missing something? Out of the 4-2-1 exhaust manifold goes a single 2" pipe that runs along the side of the gearbox and then sits centrally in the tunnel under the tailshaft, before it splits into twin 2" pipes that gardually seperate and go over the axle before exiting out of two cherrybombs either side of the boot out the back. The plan will be to fit the v8, and run seperate pipes both sides, which will join with the existing twin rear pipes so I don't need to make another new exhaust to match the new engine. Both pipes will need bracing together so at least one balance pipe could easily be fitted somewhere in the tunnel. Is there a recommended size for the balance pipe if the whole system is made from 2" pipe?
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tolson
Part of things
Posts: 69
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Sept 29, 2009 9:43:44 GMT
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That looks awsome I live the wheels and stance suits it down to the ground (no pun intended)
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IT'S NOT ROVER YET!
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Colonelk
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,742
Club RR Member Number: 83
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Sept 29, 2009 17:22:54 GMT
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thats looking sweet man! hope the mini doesnt take you too long
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Sept 29, 2009 19:28:28 GMT
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Ah, my mistake, thought the V8 was already in and twin pipes were run through. When you fit the true twin system, its best to fit the balance pipe as close to the engine as practical, this is usually somewhere around the gearbox area. 2" system should have 2" pipe ideally, but min 1.5". Or you could just siamese them for a few inches if space allows.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 29, 2009 21:02:52 GMT
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Ah, my mistake, thought the V8 was already in and twin pipes were run through. When you fit the true twin system, its best to fit the balance pipe as close to the engine as practical, this is usually somewhere around the gearbox area. 2" system should have 2" pipe ideally, but min 1.5". Or you could just siamese them for a few inches if space allows. No probs mate, it's easier for me to get everything ready now before dropping the v8 in, and then needing to re-engineer parts of it again. I need an exhaust hanger around the gearbox crossmember because it bangs on it now when I move the car, so I think that's where the balance pipe will probably go. Just need to lay underneath it to work it all out.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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I really haven't had much time to touch the rover over the past month or so. My daily driver mondeo started to break every few weeks, and with work commitments, the rover went on the backburner. That hasn't stopped me doing a few little jobs though for a little mojo boost. With some of the interior going back together, and the cabin now sealed, and two threads in the general board about steering wheels and steering wheel covers, I thought I'd do something with the wheel. I'd been looking for a while for something that'd be suitable in a smaller size than the 16" original, and the sportier looking 15.5" wheel I've had fitted from my old 3500s spare arts car. Most aftermarket wheels are either woodrim or chunky leather, with a huge ugly centre boss. A little thinking out of the box, I decided to stick with the genuine rover wheel, but make it smaller . I stripped the old cover and manky original cover underneath, and cut the rim off the two spokes. I cut 4 1/2 inches out of the rim and welded it all back together, resprayed the spokes and boss, then covered the rim with 10mm petrol hose, and then fitted my lace up vinyl steering wheel cover ;D . The smaller diameter is subtle and fits in well with the black interior. It has such a 70's feel to it now, and cost only a few quid for the petrol hose and cover kit ;D .
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Great idea!
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194? Willys Jeep MB 1965 Volvo 544 Special 1968 Opel Rekord 1975 Opel Kadett Estate 1985 Mercedes-Benz 230E 1985 Datsun 720 King Cab 4x4 diesel 1997 Volvo S70 2.5SE (ex. "Volvo544special65" - changed to more reader friendly username. )
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Awesome work so far!
Do you think you'll have any clearance issues with the V8? Depending on who you talk to at Rover P6 meets some say it will go straight in no problems; some say no way, as the inner wings are a different shape.
Regards,
Ric
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"You're about as likely to come across a fully functioning old Jag, as you are a taxicab that smells agreeable." - James May
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Awesome work so far! Do you think you'll have any clearance issues with the V8? Depending on who you talk to at Rover P6 meets some say it will go straight in no problems; some say no way, as the inner wings are a different shape. Regards, Ric Yeah I've heard and been told that one too. The chassis legs on series two p6's like my one are the same I believe between the v8 and 2000. My 2000 front crossmember has the cutout for the v8 oil filter, and the chassis legs have the cutouts for the v8 downpipes. I've already fitted the v8 specific parts of the inner wings into my shell to relocate the brake servo, so I have no worries about that. I know it will be tight around the rear of the engine bay around the steering box and idler because the 2000 models have slightly larger reinforcing uprights from the lower rear tie rod, but that's a simple issue of channeling if it's an issue. I've also rebuilt the front brake calipers, and fitted spacers to clear the vented discs, and fitted the spacers to the vented discs to put them in the correct place for the calipers (been a long time now but finally back together ). Just need some more brake line fittings then the front brakes WILL be bled and tested.
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wow those calipers are so bright they have started to upset your camera!
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1974 Lancia Beta Saloon 1975 Mazda 929 Coupé 1986 Mazda 929 Wagon 1979 Mazda 929 Hardtop 1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica 1977 Toyota Carina TA14 1989 Subaru 1800 Wagon 1982 Hyundai Pony 1200TL 2-dr 1985 Hyundai Pony 1200 GL 1986 Maserati 425 Biturbo 1992 Rover 214 SEi 5-dr 2000 Rover 45 V6 Club 1994 Peugeot 205 'Junior' Diesel 1988 Volvo 760 Turbodiesel Saloon 1992 Talbot Express Autosleeper Rambler 2003 Renault Laguna SPEARS OR REAPERS
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