sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jun 18, 2018 11:08:08 GMT
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Jun 18, 2018 12:09:06 GMT
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Or blue
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jun 19, 2018 14:36:44 GMT
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Or blue Not really a fan of the all one colour look with a bulge, and I'm used to it being black in the middle anyway! So with the decision made I've put a first coat of black over the centre of the bonnet. Not sure if I should leave the middle of the bonnet at the front going into the scoop black or keep it blue? Also painted the rear lower valance and got the rear end going back together The rear wings are giving me lots of trouble where I've moved the wheelarch up but are getting close to being ready for a coat of lacquer at last. That'll leave just the bonnet to finish, and to start the lower front valance and doors.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jun 23, 2018 20:55:23 GMT
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Jun 23, 2018 21:48:20 GMT
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Very nice.
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This is looking so so good now, cracking effort. Get the doors done and show us a proper all in shot!
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1987 Supercharged BMW R1150 Citroen 2cv Hillclimb Monster 1995 Renault Master Mk1 Race Transporter 1994 Mazda MX5 Mk1 / NA Road Going Class Hillclimber 1991 UMM Alter II Crew Cab OM606 SuperTurbo Diesel MegaUMM Overlander 1992 UMM Alter II Station Wagon 1980 UMM Cournil - survivor - resto project 1979 Lomax 224 2014 VW T5.1 Transporter Kombi Highline
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jul 16, 2018 20:45:48 GMT
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This is looking so so good now, cracking effort. Get the doors done and show us a proper all in shot! The clock is ticking to get it ready and running properly for RRG and it's just too hot to paint recently! See what happens over the next month but I have started smoothing out some of the blemishes.... The power steering pump bracket has been welded up, painted and all reassembled Got the front valance painted and fitted Due to going bumperless I need a rear number plate light. After a lot of thinking I bought a cheap pair of trailer number plate lights, made some spacers and screwed them on. They need a little extra shrouding to stop it looking like I've got reversing lights stuck on! And then a huge hurdle was overcome, getting the little Rover out of death row! The front air dam has been fibreglassed and now screws on so almost done Lights, windscreen wipers and washers all work too The last big job is to get the engine running properly, which means tuning the Megasquirt. I've been fiddling with some settings on and off over the last few weeks so it starts happily from cold, runs upto temperature, restarts when hot, and revs freely. I do however have some issues which I'm struggling with, and that's an erratic TPS signal only with the engine running and the afr wandering. First thing I checked was all of the earths, and they were good, even adding a second engine earth strap. The battery voltage is also slightly erratic by about 0.4 volts so I'm beginning to think it's a power supply issue with some electrical noise getting through. I'm now in the process of moving the EDIS wiring away from the ecu loom, and fitting capacitors wherever suitable to help clean up the electrical feed to the ecu
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jul 16, 2018 20:54:04 GMT
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Here's how it's running now
Got some more work to do on the idle control since it has a habit of hunting around 1000-1100rpm. If I rev the engine up and let it idle it drops to 700-800rpm, and the idle control valve is chattering away like it's working, then goes quiet after 5-10 seconds and the idle rises again. I don't know if it's a faulty idle valve or I've simply got the configuration wrong on the Megasquirt?
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,001
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Jul 19, 2018 21:16:34 GMT
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This thing is looking as awesome as ever, hope the idle issues are easy to sort
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Jul 19, 2018 21:33:52 GMT
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That car looks very nice!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jul 20, 2018 17:21:20 GMT
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This thing is looking as awesome as ever, hope the idle issues are easy to sort Thanks . I'm still struggling to figure the idle issues out, just short of buying another idle control valve and chancing that? It periodically works perfectly, with an acceptably stable afr, but then starts hunting again with the afr wandering. Got a few more things to check and some other settings to try on the ecu. Fuel pressure is stable at about 38psi, until it begins hunting and the pressure rises and falls with the manifold pressure changes on the stock Saab fuel pressure regulator. That car looks very nice! Thanks
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Jul 20, 2018 17:52:08 GMT
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jul 20, 2018 18:30:00 GMT
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Interesting stuff, mostly over the top of my head but I can kinda get some of it! I should have a few spare IN4001 diodes that I can splice into the loom and see if it makes any notable difference? What makes it more annoying is how my 'squirted SD1 has the stepper motor and that works as good as the original hotwire installation, yet I'm struggling with a simple on off valve with 2 wires!
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Jul 20, 2018 20:17:25 GMT
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I'd set the idle valve to warmup only and see if you can get a stable idle without it, usually the "always on" idle control is used with things that drop the revs a fair bit like aircon kicking in etc..
*Edit- car is looking awesome!
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Last Edit: Jul 20, 2018 20:17:50 GMT by quaggers
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jul 20, 2018 21:06:07 GMT
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I'd set the idle valve to warmup only and see if you can get a stable idle without it, usually the "always on" idle control is used with things that drop the revs a fair bit like aircon kicking in etc.. *Edit- car is looking awesome! I did have it on warm-up only, but it was worse at the time I was last trying it. There are surely some other underlying issues that I haven't figured out yet, and putting it on closed loop seemed to help enough for it to run noticeably better. If I don't get any reasonable improvement over the weekend I'll bypass it entirely and try to get the base tuning done without. I've recently bought a noise suppressor aimed at audio installations which I can patch into the power input to rule out electrical noise coming from the alternator?
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If you were closer I'd offer to wrap that air dam on the chin in carbon offcuts we have laying around, that'd look baller.
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1987 Supercharged BMW R1150 Citroen 2cv Hillclimb Monster 1995 Renault Master Mk1 Race Transporter 1994 Mazda MX5 Mk1 / NA Road Going Class Hillclimber 1991 UMM Alter II Crew Cab OM606 SuperTurbo Diesel MegaUMM Overlander 1992 UMM Alter II Station Wagon 1980 UMM Cournil - survivor - resto project 1979 Lomax 224 2014 VW T5.1 Transporter Kombi Highline
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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If you were closer I'd offer to wrap that air dam on the chin in carbon offcuts we have laying around, that'd look baller. I've stuck some sheet rubber over the top of it already, it's low done and vulnerable and will inevitably get bashed so some rubber will resist and hide most of the lighter scrapes
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jul 21, 2018 11:48:47 GMT
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As per vitesseefi 's suggestion I did some reading on flyback diodes, and had a rummage and soldered a spare one into the loom near the idle control valve The P6 has been left idling and got to temperature, with a stable idle speed, no hunting Even with a hot restart and some revving, it would return back to a steady idle, although sometimes needing a little coaxing on the throttle to stop it stalling and clear it out. If first impressions continue, then that's a massive accomplishment and huge leap forward in getting it ready to tune up and mot
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Jul 21, 2018 14:56:19 GMT
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As per vitesseefi 's suggestion I did some reading on flyback diodes, and had a rummage and soldered a spare one into the loom near the idle control valve The P6 has been left idling and got to temperature, with a stable idle speed, no hunting Even with a hot restart and some revving, it would return back to a steady idle, although sometimes needing a little coaxing on the throttle to stop it stalling and clear it out. If first impressions continue, then that's a massive accomplishment and huge leap forward in getting it ready to tune up and mot FORUM VICTORY! You're bringing this to RRG right? Can't wait to see it!
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1987 Supercharged BMW R1150 Citroen 2cv Hillclimb Monster 1995 Renault Master Mk1 Race Transporter 1994 Mazda MX5 Mk1 / NA Road Going Class Hillclimber 1991 UMM Alter II Crew Cab OM606 SuperTurbo Diesel MegaUMM Overlander 1992 UMM Alter II Station Wagon 1980 UMM Cournil - survivor - resto project 1979 Lomax 224 2014 VW T5.1 Transporter Kombi Highline
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Jul 21, 2018 17:56:43 GMT
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Excellent Really must get around to swapping my ancient bimetallic strip extra air valve (Ex K-Jet GTI) for one of these proper, active ones as the Vitesse needs a bit of help in the idle department with the wilder cam....... especially when we go to the mountains. Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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