sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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absolutley amazing . some of the people and there skills in this country are well words stagger me . spent 2 whole hours reading every page and was gutted when I reached the end not becasue of the car you understand just because there was nothing left to read . time for an update on this one ... pretty please !! Thanks ;D I have made a little bit more progress recently, not much but enough for an update... A bag of stainless countersunk screws arrived through the post during the week so today I took the side cover off the plenum chamber and countersunk the holes and put the new screws in: I don't know what finish the side cover should have, whether I paint it or polish it, but I guess that will depend on how it looks in the engine bay when I get round to dropping the new lump in. I have also made an adapter to turn the thermostat housing round 90 0 so it points roughly in the right direction to the radiator and gives some room for the turbo: I've also started making a coilpack mount to sit it high up away from the exhaust in one of the few remaining free spaces around the engine. It's the second attempt, using parts recycled from attempt no.1, when I realised that it would sit in the heater hose outlet . It's not finished yet but is mostly there: It will need a heatshield underneath it, but that can wait for now. Before I drop the engine into the car, I plan to start it up on the floor, but not knowing how much space there will be for the turbo and alternator, I can't adapt the donor turbo manifold to fit. Fortunately, the original turbo log manifold will clear the starter motor with an elbow so I can at least see the engine working on the floor minus the turbo. And here's the donor manifold compared to the stock Rover log manifold: The tubular manifold will need the flange cutting off as it originally come off a Nissan turbo but is a close match to the Rover's port spacing. I started making my own tubular manifold a while ago, so I have a flange that fits my cylinder head which has suitable stubs to weld the tubular manifold to so it shouldn't be too much of a big job to fit it when I'm ready
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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A few other little jobs I've done on the engine are finishing the camshaft blanking plates on the rear of the head and tapping a second oil take-off for the turbo oil feed on the oil pump housing: The engine originally had a distributer mounted on the back of the cylinder head on the exhaust camshaft, but going in a rwd set-up, it had to go. So using a second inlet blanking plate, I drilled two extra holes to mount on the exhaust side of the head and welded up the two redundant holes, looks much better now . I need a third oil take-off on the oil pump housing for the oil pressure transmitter in addition to the light switch and turbo feed. I have an adapter, but it looks clumsy so I'm thinking of putting a fitting on the centre of the big oil gallery plug and having that as the third take-off. In preparation for dropping the engine in the car, I've made the engine mount block flanges out of 10mm steel plate, nice and sturdy as I believe the mounts will need to be a cunning shape to sit either on the chassis rails or front crossmember: Physically on the car itself, I have replaced the leaking brake calipers with a pair of overhauled calipers. Being as mine have home brew spacers, I had the calipers supplied in plated zinc, and painted them blue to match the rest of the car I've also spent a lot of time fettling the front valance, most of the arch lip is done and almost all the rust pitting is gone at last. I'm beginning to chase the high and low spots in the metal trying to keep filler useage to a minimum, so now it is starting to take shape: I'm hoping to get the fist coat of primer on the valance during the week, then it will leave finishing off the front wings to match
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ewokracing
Part of things
Snuffling for food in a river
Posts: 502
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very nice!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 15, 2011 21:14:55 GMT
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Okay then Since the red landy passed the mot last Monday with no problems, it's now out of my way and after doing some little jobs on the rest of the fleet, my car play time should be more focused on the ol' Rover now I bought a length of blue ignition lead and made some new leads for the engine: I've also scavenged an old tailpipe and downpipe in 2" diameter and bodged up a downpipe to go on the stock Rover turbo log manifold so I can do the initial setting up in naturally asthmatic form: I've also made some brackets that fit on the back of the valance to attach it to the front of the Rover and given it a coat of primer: After a trip to Mini in the Park yesterday at Santa Pod, my mojo has been fully recharged and I got going on the front valance and wings tonight after work ;D The wings are now bolted to the valance, and the valance bolted to the front chassis rails, first time it has been solidly mounted since I first acquired the car all those years ago . All I need to do now is finish the front corners of the wings to flow from the swage line to the valance join and paint the whole lot ;D
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Em
Part of things
Fuel Injected? Carb Infested!
Posts: 601
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Aug 15, 2011 23:10:15 GMT
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WOW! Not checked in here for a while, that is some fantastic and neat work going on there! Really love the coil pack bracket and the plenum cover, super neat stuff! And the valence is a continuing work of art...! Top Stuff!
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Brilliant work going on here! Love your fabrication and ideas, and love the car!
Just a question, I might have missed it, but what will you be doing about fuelling? In my understanding you have to modify the carbs to handle air being forced through them? Very interested in this as I've been looking at a twin carb turbo setup for my car...
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 16, 2011 21:18:23 GMT
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Brilliant work going on here! Love your fabrication and ideas, and love the car! Just a question, I might have missed it, but what will you be doing about fuelling? In my understanding you have to modify the carbs to handle air being forced through them? Very interested in this as I've been looking at a twin carb turbo setup for my car... I've done a lot Googling into getting SU's to work in a blow through set-up, and the general internet based knowledge seems to imply that standard HIF44's can work reasonably well on low boost applications. Basically what needs to be done is have the dashpot sealed to the main body (some silicone type sealants appear to be up to the job), have a means of increasing the pressure in the float chamber to prevent the fuel being blown back out and turn the throttle seals round so they seal against pressure not vacuum. I think there are a few other mods that need doing, just I haven't got round to rebuilding the carbs just yet. I have so far fitted a Bosch high pressure fuel pump and rising rate regulator in the engine bay which works fine on the original engine: . Tonight I did a little bit more on one front wing. Most of the welding is done and mostly smoothed out and worked with the hammer and dolly to get the overall shape almost spot on Little bit more work needed to make the join line match and fill the remaining holes, copy on other side then paint, wahoo!
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Aug 16, 2011 21:20:31 GMT
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I adore how agressive this looks. It just screams 'RACE ME'
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DutyFreeSaviour
Europe
Back For More heartbreak and disappointment.....
Posts: 2,944
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Aug 17, 2011 15:19:52 GMT
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this is soooooooo bookmaarked. I'm also looking at the twin carb blow through scenario - but I've got a supercharger sitting here waiting patiently....
Superb work on both the 88 and the ¨P6 - thie thing is simply stunning......
Well done.
John
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Back from the dead..... kind of
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 17, 2011 17:59:21 GMT
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this is soooooooo bookmaarked. I'm also looking at the twin carb blow through scenario - but I've got a supercharger sitting here waiting patiently.... Superb work on both the 88 and the ¨P6 - thie thing is simply stunning...... Well done. John My brother wants to run a supercharger blowing through a single SU on his Mini, similar in layout to the turbo setup, except with a front mounted Eaton m45 and mahoosive intercooler. It seems like a practical project if a suitable off throttle bypass system can be devised to work progressively with the SU so it remains civilised and driveable on the road. I've got an idea on how it can all work, just need a vehicle to test the concept out on, hmmm...
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Aug 17, 2011 18:04:14 GMT
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For the M45, get the re-circ valve from a bini. job done. Slarke do a conversions like that now. Have a look on www.turbominis.co.uk for info on making n/a HIFF44 carbs sealed up for boost (use the search). You may also need to think about a restrictor ring in the mouth of the plenum for each carb to keep the pressure in there above that in the carbs or you will find it leans out as boost builds.
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Aug 17, 2011 19:43:22 GMT
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Just read this thread front to back.
Wow!
I'm always amazed when I read about build like this. The imagination and ingenuity blow me away.
Top work. Can't wait to see it finished.
Matt
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1982 Granada 2.8 Ghia X - SOLD ☹️ 1976 Mini Clubman Estate - Getting there slowly.
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Aug 17, 2011 21:25:56 GMT
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Volvo used 2 headgaskets for the T5, so it's a factory bodge Hmmm, you quite sure about that? I've just rebuilt mine and it only had 1 on it, and only 1 went back one, plus a few other goodies, now has 400bhp The Rover looks great, keep up the good work
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1987 24v powered XR4x4 on LPG 1995 Volvo 850 BTCC replica also on LPG, life's a gas!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 17, 2011 21:30:07 GMT
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For the M45, get the re-circ valve from a bini. job done. Slarke do a conversions like that now. Have a look on www.turbominis.co.uk for info on making n/a HIFF44 carbs sealed up for boost (use the search). You may also need to think about a restrictor ring in the mouth of the plenum for each carb to keep the pressure in there above that in the carbs or you will find it leans out as boost builds. Yeah there is quite a lot of info and expertise in the mini world on how to force air through SU's . Most of my Google searches end up going that way. I am planning to fit a pitot tube into the plenum intake to pressurise the float chambers, I believe just a case of figuring out what size is suitable rather than fitting a restrictor plate. I need to clear the workbench at some point and go over the whole intake side of things anyway, work out how many take-off ports I need and where they'll all be going and build up the whole lot ready to run. I think the last piece in the puzzle is the bypass valve for supercharging, looks like finding a stock new mini valve should do the trick , a little more research needed to confirm but it looks like a top candidate
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Turboing is the best way to go for power. you may have seen my metro van at mitp running a few 14 second runs ;-)
not sure how pilot tubes would work in this scenario. the restricts are.just a bit of tube with a.hole in it across the carbon mouth. easy. I'll try and dig out a picture for you.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 27, 2011 21:18:55 GMT
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Aug 27, 2011 22:47:41 GMT
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Really looking good dude,Keep up the good work.
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,058
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Aug 28, 2011 10:15:33 GMT
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loving the fabrication work, and the thinking outside the box for the engine ;D should be fine with 10:1 cr, just as long as thers not too much boost and the timing is kept in check always liked the P6 rovers, but didnt know the front valances were different between v8 and 4pot
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welder
Part of things
Posts: 518
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Aug 28, 2011 11:27:37 GMT
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Again great work. Really can't wait to see this done!
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I'm not completely useless, I can be used as a bad example.
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