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Oct 19, 2009 19:03:09 GMT
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Thanks Edd, I like them, and suspect I may get to like them even more once they are under my roof Friday night.
I never bought alloys before the bus, and did so with trepidation, but to have bought a 2nd set, that really pushes the boat out for me.
Kinda mad in my book, even if I do need 2 more wheels for the trailer.
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Oct 19, 2009 19:19:10 GMT
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With the alloys can you put polished set on one side and white on the other!
Then they will all match as you look at it and you have two looks for the van and trailer at the same time!
John.
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Hitch
Part of things
Posts: 427
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Oct 19, 2009 19:33:36 GMT
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Nice wheels!  Personally Id put the polished wheels on the bus as the bus will presumably be used more without the trailer than with and they look pretty all shined up.  Stick the white ones on the trailer and then during winter with the salt on the roads, stick the white ones on the bus and some steelies on the trailer to avoid damaging the polished alloys. |
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Busy, busy, busy.... where did we get too? oh yeah, bushes bearings and post strikes. I scrounged some metal to make the adapter plate, thought this was thick enough. it is- its too thick! 5/8" strap!-  Got hacked off at the spigot bearing, phoned the local bearing stockist up (not always helpful  ) but they had an oilite bush in 22mm od and 16mm id, so i got it.   took it to a nice chap down the road to play with it   thats the OD and ID sorted.  parted it off at the same distance a standard ford bearing is.  like that! easy when you know how.  the tall one is what we started with, the shortest bit is what was left over and the piece in the foreground is what I'm using.  and there is its home, all nice and snuggly. awww.  clutch aligned. I wanted this and the spigot done before I cut metal as it holds the gearbox in a more correct plane.  and start on the adapter. doing it in a few pieces as that slims the chance of me ballsing it all up. It will happen but I won't have wasted so much time when I do  and thats the top piece done.  next up was the side. done today, and yes- i duly buggered it up  made another piece, all fine and dandy  the one side on, the starter side is next up. I moved the starter 180 degrees because of a more convenient location. still got to cut the bellhousing to fit it, but thats the only thing I can do  thats where the starter now goes. I drilled the tin sheet on the old orion bellhousing but upside down clamped in perfect allignment.  coming together now, starter to be cut out- I marked it by lightly spraying the tin sheet with spray paint whilst it was bolted up. I tacked it in situ so it didn't move, finished on the flatest peice oif concrete I have.  better shot of the paint mark on it.  gonna have to chain drill it and jigsaw between the holes I reckon. my air sabre saw got a little bit upset when I tried it  and thats where we are so far. its coming along..... |
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Was asking Rian earlier how you´re getting on......now we know ;D
Looking good sir. ;D
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tetleysid
Part of things
rockin reimo
Posts: 138
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Great idea with the paint overspray must remember that one................sometimes the simple tips ae the best |
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Edd
What about using a large hole saw, (good quality mind) as long as you have a good Pillar drill, and use a slow speed with plenty of cutting spray it will be fine. Worst case scenario is that you might need to drill it from both sides.
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I am Grinning Insanely Edd.
That's all.
Thanks.
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Love the YELO album, one of my favourites of theirs. Especially "The Race" and "Alhambra" |
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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humm theres something familar about this thread
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totti
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,153
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great progress!
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65 'Ford Taunus 17m
66' Ford Taunus 17m Turnier
73' Ford Taunus
63' Ford Taunus Transit 1250
72'Ford Escort 2000cc
71'Ford Escort 1700 4 door
89'Ford Escort Express
87'Ford Fiesta Diesel
64'Ford Cortina 1500 deluxe
57'Volvo PV 444 Califonia
54'Peugeot 203 Commerciale
2004 Harley Davidson Fat Boy
78'Zündapp ZR 20
88'MZ ETZ 250
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humm theres something familar about this thread Slater's dad in the pics, or driving the lathe ?? |
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Thanks Thorsten. Glad its getting done, 100PS is better than 55PS ? |
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Edd What about using a large hole saw, (good quality mind) as long as you have a good Pillar drill, and use a slow speed with plenty of cutting spray it will be fine. Worst case scenario is that you might need to drill it from both sides. Hey Tony For one I don't have a big enough one, two I snapped my arbor and three post strikes  . It would have been MUCH easier to do like you said. I have a beauty of a pillar drill- a pllard bench mounted device- takes 2 people to lift just the base. we got here last time. I wanted to get the starter motor hole cut out.  a bit of this.....  makes this. lots of holes! This is called chain drilling, a true craftsman can get the holes perfectly next to each other and a tap with a chisel will separate them. well that ain't me I'm afraid  Cut it out with the saw between the holes and a few hours later we get this. lots of file action..  twix fits! got to countersink the bolts on this, might as well look a bit more professional  some more got welded on. it doesn't need the lower bit but it adds a lot of stiffness to the plate.  migged up. My welder goes to 7  used a few slitting discs to clearance the flywheel. it sits almost behind the flywheel without cutting but I'd rather have more clearance.  bellhousing will have to lose this lump, which is where the lower bolt would locate. I'm making a plate that goes inside the opening at the bottom of the bellhousing to gearbox casting and then running two struts from there downwards to give it more rigidity and torsional strength. They will mount to the bottom of the sump where the orion gearbox would have bolted up originally- a convenient strong location. Not an easy thing though, first thing I find is that on an entirely european (read: metric) threaded bus- it has 7/16" whitworth bell housing bolts!  I don't have any whitworth bolts at the workshop, but I do have some whitworth taps and dies so I re-threaded these E12 fitting M10x1.25 bmw bolts I had  I needed some spacers to get it to clear the bellhousing strengthening web, so I got my non-HSE spec lathe out  rubbish pics as I didn't take my DSLR today, sorry. This is reducing the length of a bit of ally bush I had. I made two of these.  the plate fits in here. the holes in the underside will carry the struts I will be making. And thats it for now, folks |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,784
Club RR Member Number: 34
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ed, for future reference, as tony says, you could have done that with a hole cutter in any pillar drill very easily and cheaply, with little effort and no filing/cleaning up needed. would have taken 10 mins a new arbour and a decent enough bi-metal holecutter can be had from screwfix, for £10-15 for both. i think ive got holecutters up to about 4", i use em all the time, for just about everything! |
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Yeah, more hours of my life lost my bad, I know. got some bigger biceps from it though ;D I need a decent set of holesaws, my heller set from machine mart is OK, but the drill bits in the arbors are utter toss. and it only goes to 40-odd mm. I need tools, dammit ;D |
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Still looking good though, and love the lathe.
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Morning Edd,
Just looked at this again with a friend..... and he is amazed at what you are getting up to.
Great progress continues, love your problem solving thinking.
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Shamelessly stolen from Runar's first posting thread on his discovered old abandoned scrapyard. Love the patina. This is now my desktop background. Glad Edd did not have to start with this.  |
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Nov 22, 2009 21:29:23 GMT
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right, its that time again. More work done..... Starting with the stiffener piece I was making because the lower bellhousing bolt couldn't be used.  here I started making it.  in the meantime I also dusted the plate off. Finished and fit for use  this is what the stiffener looks like all finished. but it wasn't of course...   mmm, paint   the problem was it needed slimming where the clutch pressure plate was touching it, only ever so slightly but it needed clearance  starter all bolted up  finished and painted stiffener. and here I fitted the gearbox up for what I thought was the last time. no. I operated the clutch and it felt OK and then it went TWANG! and then it most definetly did not feel OK   in these shots you can see that the release bearing has a spigot tube that locates on the bus clutch but on here its larger than the hole through the clutch fingers and is just the right size to go twang through the fingers under compression and lock the bloody thing up!  something had to be done!....  what I done was procrastinate. instead I cut the bellhousing to fit around the starter motor. this is the entire reason the stiffening plate is needed (anyone else done laughing when I say that? ;D)  Off to Mr slater snr and had the release bearing trimmed off in the lathe. this made the clutch have a lot of extra clearance that would mean most of the adjustment would be all used up. so I needed to bring the release fork towards the clutch the pack...  so I put an extension bolt into the fork mount and promptly snapped it off in the belhousing   I managed to centre it perfectly and the drill bit "bit" into the remnants of the stud and threaded it out reverse. thats more than lucky!  todays lesson was clean the thread first....  there are the extension studs in place.  fitted and working! wooo! but you may notice the stiffener isn't fitted here and you can't fit it with the gearbox in place. why is this?...  .......because the M10 bolts I rethreaded to 7/16 bsw aren't MM perfect so after a few too many runs in and out- the thread stripped. ordered some proper whitworth bolts from www.namrick.co.uk/ at £4 each (!) and had to wait . and wait... until friday evening when I they came and I fitted it all and the gearbox is all butted up nicely, not to be removed for some time. maybe when tony robinsons great great great grandfather unearths the bus in timeteam 2235ad ;D  today something magic happened.  I know its not in yet, but it's been a chalenge enough to get this far. and the engine had to be slid under the front as I haven't got enough elevation- my jack runs out of lift me and rob0r stuck it on some hardboard and slipped it under. thanks Rob- I really appreciated the extra muscle  "and a light shone from above and it was pronounced that from this day forward you will be zetec powered" thats it for now |
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Personally Id put the polished wheels on the bus as the bus will presumably be used more without the trailer than with and they look pretty all shined up. 
Stick the white ones on the trailer and then during winter with the salt on the roads, stick the white ones on the bus and some steelies on the trailer to avoid damaging the polished alloys. 
) but they had an oilite bush in 22mm od and 16mm id, so i got it.
made another piece, all fine and dandy 
. It would have been MUCH easier to do like you said. I have a beauty of a pillar drill- a pllard bench mounted device- takes 2 people to lift just the base.
