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Oct 10, 2013 21:53:13 GMT
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Duh! I’m an idiot, the valve collets cannot be hitting the heads as the stem seals are in perfect condition and they are about 3/16” thick. If the collets were hitting the seals would be crushed & split.
Still does not tell me why the valves have a burr on them after 1/2 hour of running though? I guess a new set of collets would be a good idea, will get a new set of Comp cams ones from Real Steel tomorrow.
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Oct 11, 2013 19:27:45 GMT
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I went to Real Steel today and showed my valves to their engine guru for his opinion. Apparently it's completely normal for a small burr to occur on the collet ridge on the valve stem & it should be deburred with a fine diamond stone. However he looked at my valves and although he thought they were ok & usable he thought I might want to put new ones in anyway. So, I now have a new set of Manley valves to lap in tonight - oh joy, my favourite job :evil:
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Oct 12, 2013 21:18:57 GMT
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Oooo an evening of fun ahead then!
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Koos
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Oct 13, 2013 14:20:54 GMT
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With all the valves lapped in I reassembled 2 of them without springs and fitted the head with gasket on one side to check clearances. With zero lash set up I checked the inlet & exhaust with the std rockers and there is plenty of room Exhaust has 0.176in clearance; And inlet a bit less with the stem seal fitted - could not get the digital vernier in the gap but its plenty anyway. Gaps will be a little tighter with the roller tip rockers (1.52 ratio) than with the ones in the pics (1.50 ratio) but still plenty of room so heads can go back on today Also checked the rocker tip fitting and its bang on the first 1/3 of the valve stem, so pushrods are perfect length - at least I got that bit correct!
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Oct 13, 2013 22:26:15 GMT
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Well today was a trial! Eventually got the heads on - not quite as simple as it sounds as I noticed that the ARP stud washers were wider than the pockets in the head, so I had to make a jig to grind the washers down till they were the right circumference. 34 washers later and the heads were torqued down. Then I thought I'd install the oil pump intermediate shaft...........only to realise that I should have put this on before fitting the oil pump ..........which means I need to take the sump back off.......curse word! Hope I can re use the gaskets as they were blinkin expensive I Can't believe I made such a schoolboy error :grr:
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Oct 14, 2013 17:31:20 GMT
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Well curse word :grr: things are not going well - heads need to come off again for pushrod clearances with the new roller tip rockers according to the instructions and pushrods are a bit too long now as well due to the new ratios. Instructions also say if you have a high pressure or volume oil pump you need to fit oil deflectors on the valvetrain as it damages the rocker arms & pushrods otherwise *sigh* bit f***ed off with it right now - mojo seriously dented
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Oct 14, 2013 17:32:55 GMT
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*double post
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remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 931
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Oct 14, 2013 18:46:06 GMT
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Sorry to hear that , my mojo is boosted just looking at this thread , sadly my woeful efforts wont do the same for you. Chin up ,
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Oct 14, 2013 21:52:30 GMT
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Thanks mate Mojo slightly restored, masked up the valley & one head and removed the rocker studs. Then with the aid of magnets I slowly drilled out 2 pushrod holes in the head. I'll mask up better tomorrow with cardboard panels and extra sticky film tape we have at work and also run the hoover by the drill and drill out all of the other holes. It would have been so much easier on saturday before I put the heads back together!
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How much oil pressure is it running? :-O
Just gotta keep that first green light as your motivation dude!
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Koos
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No idea, it's just a brand new high pressure pump. I'll call Real Steel today to find out whsat pressure they run at and if the oil deflector is really necessary.
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Oct 15, 2013 21:21:04 GMT
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Bummer that !!!!!
Could you not crank the engine over slowly by hand with the pushrods in and see if they rub on the holes in the head before you decide to drill them out?
Only needs one bit of swarf in the engine to accelerate mayor wear once you start it up
Should have stuck with a Ford engine !!!!!!!!!
Good luck though
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Oct 15, 2013 22:26:22 GMT
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Pah! ford engine are for propping the garage door open with Well another job done, pushrod holes are now 29/64ths diameter. Engine was well taped up and 2 strong magnets placed either side of drill bit while drilling with tray under to catch the swarf. Hoovered up everywhere as well before wiping down with clean cloths. Fairly confident none has got anywhere near the internals.
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Oct 19, 2013 22:01:14 GMT
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Back on track again, rockers studs & guideplates are back in the heads and pushrod length is being checked, unfortunately the tool Real Steel sold me was the wrong length so I cant check the correct length yet. This is with the 7.8 inch rods in, which are too long. This is the dipstick, I'm wondering if the outer tube should be longer as the original dipstick had been worn by the crank. The tube end feels a bit rough so might have been cut by a previous owner, any thoughts anyone? Engine beginning to look a bit more engine like, inlet is only resting on at present.
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drdick
Part of things
Posts: 359
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Length of dipstick below the little shoulder (where it seats on the block) is unimportant. You could cut all of what you can see in the picture off if you wanted as long as the top half was the right length.
Nice looking engine, valve covers are particularly cool.
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Oct 20, 2013 12:35:05 GMT
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Thanks mate, I like the valve covers too The reason I ask about the outer tube for the dipstick is that it can flap about quite a bit beyond the outer tube (which is why the original had almost been cut in half by the crank?) so if the outer tube was longer it would keep the dipstick away from the crank?
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Oct 20, 2013 15:16:26 GMT
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Did you weld those valve covers up? Thats some pretty welding.
If the 'stick can flap about enough to touch anything then the outer should be longer IMHO.
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Koos
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Oct 20, 2013 16:25:53 GMT
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I think I've sussed the old one, it was about 3" longer and would have been hitting the oil pickup which would have pushed it sideways so the crank could hit it.
The new one finishes just above the oil pickup so should be fine. It cant get near the crank now even if I push it with my finger, though I would agree that I would prefer the tube to be longer. I blueprinted the oil pump today but might leave the sump loose for a bit while I sort out a different pump spring, so I might be able to get a longer outer tube at the same time.
The valve covers were bought, but the welder at my company could weld them a lot nicer than that!
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Oct 20, 2013 20:43:05 GMT
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Blueprinted oil pump back on engine (with intermediate drive shaft fitted this time!) Then tried the headers back on - a little massaging was needed for clearance to get the socket on the bolts but mostly there now. Just stuck for the correct parts to finish it off now.
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Oct 20, 2013 20:47:50 GMT
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That's a damned sexy looking motor
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72 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. 95 BMW E34 525i Manual. 80 Lotus Elite, sold 86 Mk4 Escort RWD V8, sold
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