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Mojo not back, but i've managed to poke the embers a little. Tint - hope so! its no worse that the glass in my mondeo. What does the big list of things to do look like at the moment? Feel like I wanna give you a hug or a beer, which ever is more appropriate, this thread and the work you are doing is fascinating and motivating, so want to say thank you for keeping on with it. Winter is a crappy time for cars, outside cold, garage cold, no events to give you a kick up the backside. I took the cooling system apart on the Datsun in the middle of November, not touched it since, just moved things around it in the garage. It'll come back around though. |
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Your build made me do mine the correct way,I understand what your feeling i was going to sell my Trojan but like your car it needs to be finished and live.CARRY ON give it life.
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Peace,Max signature height = 80px
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Yeah got to say, when I got the buggy I thought it would be safer to incorporate at least some of the IVA requirements, so this thread has become an inspiration to me and also something that I am in awe of!
We can all club together and take you out for a few beers to tide you over until your mojo returns!
John
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I don't have a full list as I don't know all that may need doing, but a quick run through is this; I cant put it in for a test as I don't know how to do all the paperwork  Lose 14db from engine noise – no idea how without making new exhausts – not economically very viable Get emissions down to acceptable levels – another difficult one – especially as I have no way of checking this. Stripping out complete roof console, making entirely new flat roof section and remake 40% of wiring loom to cope with this with new switchgear – all just to get past the stupid sightline rule. Remodelling more of the interior to pass the radius and squashiness rules. Make sills and find way of fitting them together with header covers. Finish wiring the tow bar. Get new windows and replace them Cover sharp edges on exterior of car – gutters etc Try to sort radius on lower door hinges – not sure how yet. Cover steering wheel with squashy material. Sort out all documentation on car & parts - don’t know how to do this or what is needed Get stickers for parts that require them. Make some sort of non welded fixing for the brake bias bar that will pass test. Buy very expensive new rear tyres Spend lots of money to replace perfectly good parts that don’t have the correct markings on them? Lots of other stuff – probably. |
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
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Wouldn't it be an idea to get someone from the approving body out to look at the car? All work looks to be done to a very high standard. This might make it easier for them to approve it than some thing just cobbled together and which is what the rules really are there to stop?
Another more drastic method would be to get the car approved in another EU-country and then bring it back to the UK?
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Current
1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype
2004 TVR T350C
2017 BMW 340i
Previous
BMW 325d E91LCI - sold
Alfa Romeo GTV - sold
Citroen AX GT - at the breakers
Ford Puma 1.7 - sold
Volvo V50 2.0d - sold
MGB GT - wrecked by fire
MG ZT 1.8T - sold
VW E-golf Electric - sold
Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold
Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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You go to them, they don't come to you!
Getting it registered somewhere else in the EU is downright impossible - only the UK has the option of IVA - we are extremely fortunate this (onerous) test is available at all.
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jpsmit
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,274
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I don't have a full list as I don't know all that may need doing, but a quick run through is this; I cant put it in for a test as I don't know how to do all the paperwork Lose 14db from engine noise – no idea how without making new exhausts – not economically very viable Get emissions down to acceptable levels – another difficult one – especially as I have no way of checking this. Stripping out complete roof console, making entirely new flat roof section and remake 40% of wiring loom to cope with this with new switchgear – all just to get past the stupid sightline rule. Remodelling more of the interior to pass the radius and squashiness rules. Make sills and find way of fitting them together with header covers. Finish wiring the tow bar. Get new windows and replace them Cover sharp edges on exterior of car – gutters etc Try to sort radius on lower door hinges – not sure how yet. Cover steering wheel with squashy material. Sort out all documentation on car & parts - don’t know how to do this or what is needed Get stickers for parts that require them. Make some sort of non welded fixing for the brake bias bar that will pass test. Buy very expensive new rear tyres Spend lots of money to replace perfectly good parts that don’t have the correct markings on them? Lots of other stuff – probably. How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. Take away 3/4 of the list and only add when something comes off |
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,060 
Club RR Member Number: 77
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I don't have a full list as I don't know all that may need doing, but a quick run through is this; I cant put it in for a test as I don't know how to do all the paperwork Lose 14db from engine noise – no idea how without making new exhausts – not economically very viable Get emissions down to acceptable levels – another difficult one – especially as I have no way of checking this. Stripping out complete roof console, making entirely new flat roof section and remake 40% of wiring loom to cope with this with new switchgear – all just to get past the stupid sightline rule. Remodelling more of the interior to pass the radius and squashiness rules. Make sills and find way of fitting them together with header covers. Finish wiring the tow bar. Get new windows and replace them Cover sharp edges on exterior of car – gutters etc Try to sort radius on lower door hinges – not sure how yet. Cover steering wheel with squashy material. Sort out all documentation on car & parts - don’t know how to do this or what is needed Get stickers for parts that require them. Make some sort of non welded fixing for the brake bias bar that will pass test. Buy very expensive new rear tyres Spend lots of money to replace perfectly good parts that don’t have the correct markings on them? Lots of other stuff – probably. None of that sounds too horrific though, other than maybe the roof console and door hinges  As for the exhaust noise level, where abouts are you testing it? As the official method is 45degrees from the tailpipe and .5m away. If you are testing in a workshop/built up area it will muddy the results from sound reverberations  |
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,878
Club RR Member Number: 39
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I am normally a real Mr negative - but you have the CROWN at the moment  - I have great admiration for the time and effort you have put into this and if I can be of assistance I will try - I need a few Karma points. So lets have a look at the list Download from the DLVA site what paperwork you need and just start working through it methodically. It's not as hard as it seems. There are examples on the web of filled out forms and I may have mine somewhere from a Fury I built, although mine was a new build they are not that different. Noise - Don't worry about pretty at this stage it can all be changed after. Find someone with a Innovate wide band - If you can't find anyone - get you Mojo sorted and I will buy one for us both to use. For anything IVA just do the minimum to get through the test - no not worry about making it 100% finished for life. Use cheap parts and foam and carpet and just bodge it on as it will all be coming out after. - We removed 20kg of IVA parts when the test was complete. Sills and header cover I cannot visualise but don't worry about looks - IVA is not a beauty contest - do all that after. A bit like all the effort with your wing mirrors - jJust fit ugly ones that work for the test and then remove them. If you want some that will work you are welcome to the ones I took off the Fury. Fully e maked and all that guff. Remove the tow bar - do it afterwards Gutter etc. glue on rubber trim with evo stick messy but it comes off afterwards - look how old late mini's and Polo's etc did it - Steering wheel - cut some alloy the right shape trim with foam and wrap and glue with vinyl - I just used the alloy with tabs to wrap around the spokes - thrown away after the test. You have loads of photo's all you need additional is all the reciepts etc depending on what type of reg you are going for. For the engine age and therefore test requirements you should try and get a manufacturers ageing certificate. Bias bar - loads of options on locking those avaialble - give a picture and I will find a solution. Why expensive rear tyres - they only need to have tread and be rated at the max speed rating you list for the car on the documents - Borrow some - not looking stupid is not an IVA requirement. There is no need to spend vast amounts to replace good parts - ugly will pass an IVA I would suggest there is probably far less than you think IVA is not the devil people make out - its like any test it takes a bit of homework to find out the easiest way to pass. Get a location in your profile bar thing. Just treat the whole thing as an opportunity to develop and learn new skills. - Even form filling skills  I don't have a full list as I don't know all that may need doing, but a quick run through is this; I cant put it in for a test as I don't know how to do all the paperwork Lose 14db from engine noise – no idea how without making new exhausts – not economically very viable Get emissions down to acceptable levels – another difficult one – especially as I have no way of checking this. Stripping out complete roof console, making entirely new flat roof section and remake 40% of wiring loom to cope with this with new switchgear – all just to get past the stupid sightline rule. Remodelling more of the interior to pass the radius and squashiness rules. Make sills and find way of fitting them together with header covers. Finish wiring the tow bar. Get new windows and replace them Cover sharp edges on exterior of car – gutters etc Try to sort radius on lower door hinges – not sure how yet. Cover steering wheel with squashy material. Sort out all documentation on car & parts - don’t know how to do this or what is needed Get stickers for parts that require them. Make some sort of non welded fixing for the brake bias bar that will pass test. Buy very expensive new rear tyres Spend lots of money to replace perfectly good parts that don’t have the correct markings on them? Lots of other stuff – probably. |
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for the noise have you tried fitting orifice plates in all the flanged joints? It might only make 50hp when finished but no one checks it again after the test....
For emissions isnt it just an idle test like the mot? i think the level depends on the original date of manufacture of the engine.
For the sight line have you looked at moving the seat and or restricting it's travel (moving forward usually helps) doesn't have be comfortable only just about driveable for the test again if the stop falls off on way home....
For the paperwork there are people who will prepare it for fee, plenty of the kit car forums have people who can help with this as well, with a lot of this it just a case of getting the forms for the basic iva there is not to much documentary data required., filling in what you can and asking here and other forums when you get stuck.
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mantamutilator79
Part of things
I love the smell of kerosene in the morning….
Posts: 160
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Happy New Year Mark!!
Yeah, I'm in the same position as you with the Mojo, however, my garage roof is tight but still a little bit damp inside.
During these dark, miserable nights I have been reading my back log of car mags and came across this evening an article in Custom Car February 2017 edition (how do they do that, it's still early January?!!), featuring a simply beautiful orange Ford pop, built by Dave Owen. Dave's car is street legal, running a 350CI Chevy V8 and TH350 tranny. Surely, getting your Pop registered is achievable, as your car's build is not far off Dave's specification?
I've been spending the "down time" buying little bits and pieces, with the kids buying me a large shot blasting cabinet for my Xmas pressie!! This, combined with last Summer's purchase of a new compressor should see some progress, when I get round to buying some media, to test it all out.
2017 is looking good (hopefully) with my Daughter buying a new place (it's got a double garage, which I can utilise!!) before we make a final decision and move house? BIG decisions, eh?
As I wrote about 12 months ago, this time of the year can be very depressing and enthusiasm is severely lacking to get anything done in the garage. Roll on warm days and pleasant evenings.
Stay positive, dude, and come over for a chat. I'm only down the road!!
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mantamutilator79
Part of things
I love the smell of kerosene in the morning….
Posts: 160
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Oh, and I've just Read Darkspeed's post. All makes perfect sense!! You CAN DO IT!!
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Darkspeed, It would be jolly useful to read sonmeone elses paperwork if available. Towhook - has to be fitted - if not fitted for test its illegal to EVER fit one afterwards as you need all the towing weights declared at the time of the test. Towbar is not really an issue - thats one of the easier jobs. I have an innovate wideband gauge - it will be very useful but it does not read HC levels which are the ones I need to keep down. Rear tyres are awkward - I hear what you are saying - but the sheer size of them makes borrowing some awkward - but I do have a lead on some that I can hopefully use. Adding the wrong diameter would aid brake performance but then would require (less) expensive gear changes in the gearbox to keep the speedo correct. Sightline is a pain in the  , the seat needs to be lowered in real life but has to be raised to get sightline - which makes the roof console cut off 50% of forward vision.....grrrrrrrr Exhaust noise is a bother as so far nothing has even dropped it a little - wadding will reduce it possible enough, but might also strangle the engine enough to put emissions through the roof The rest is hopefully not too difficult - I understand what you mean about less than permanent finish. Receipts are a problem as I built it over 23 years so most are long gone. |
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Darkspeed,
Bias bar - they now require welding, but I don't want to do this as it would mean never being able to get the brakes undone for servicing again. Another dumb rule.
They wont allow split pins through the locking nut but I think a roll pin through the nut should suffice - it's removable but only with specialist tools.
Your thoughts?
MM,
PM me your addy & phone no and we can sort out a visit.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,878
Club RR Member Number: 39
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PM sent
Looks like you have a few of the points on the list already sorted.
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Engine noise levels are always a concern with having custom vehicles tested, but on motorcycles it's easiest to restrict the intake, especially if the intake tract is short and straight, fitting a 50% reducer will drastically reduce all round noise.
Fitting it between the carburettor and intake will limit effect on the emissions and/or fuelling. Since noise measurements are also done during throttle pulls, restricting throttle-range and/or secondaries will also help.
Good luck sorting it all out, it's a shame you have to do it all by the book, and the troubles that come with that, but in the end, it'll be a amazing achievement:)
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I don't know which IVA station you will go to but I trailered the Ronart from Thurleigh to Norwich three times to get the IVA done. It really helps if they look at it, even if it fails, because they will say exactly what will be needed - and it may be that it is less than you think....LOTS of folk on here are rooting for you.
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Yes, tonnes of support here. You can do it.
Please do it as it's helping me with mine in the earlier stages!!
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Hi Phil,
I fully expect it to fail on the first attempt, but I'd like to get it as close as possible as it may fail on something big that requires a lot of work.
You are right - having a real list of genuine fail items will make it far easier to hopefully get it passed.
My local station is Hayes.
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quadra
Part of things
Posts: 162
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Darkspeed, Bias bar - they now require welding, but I don't want to do this as it would mean never being able to get the brakes undone for servicing again. Another dumb rule. They wont allow split pins through the locking nut but I think a roll pin through the nut should suffice - it's removable but only with specialist tools. Your thoughts? Yes this has been OK in he past, drill the nut and bias bar and fix with a roll pin. |
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- I have great admiration for the time and effort you have put into this and if I can be of assistance I will try - I need a few Karma points.
