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Sept 14, 2017 19:51:49 GMT
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It's not odd, you can build anything you like but they are realistic in that you can't get an old engine to pass new regs - no Fi or 'lean burn' tech etc.
Actually it IS odd - as they recognise old engine emissions but don't recognise old bodies can't comply with new regs........
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,864
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Sept 14, 2017 20:43:12 GMT
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It's not odd, you can build anything you like but they are realistic in that you can't get an old engine to pass new regs - no Fi or 'lean burn' tech etc. Actually it IS odd - as they recognise old engine emissions but don't recognise old bodies can't comply with new regs........ But, your project is proof that statement wrong as you are getting a 1953 body to meet the latest regulations. It's not that they can't comply, it's that they don't - no real surprise there - and they need a small amount of additional work to bring up to date The further you go back in time with a design the more difficult it becomes but nothing is impossible, it just takes that extra effort and dedication - the sort of effort and dedication that makes the contents of this thread so admirable. Lets face it - you have picked just about the most difficult of aspects of every possbile build scenario and crammed them all together into one.
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Sept 15, 2017 8:37:46 GMT
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Lets face it - you have picked just about the most difficult of aspects of every possbile build scenario and crammed them all together into one. This is true, but the end result will be awesome
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Sept 15, 2017 9:40:26 GMT
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Actually mine is possibly easier as most of it is bolted together - so bits can unbolt and compliant bits bolted in their place.
A more 'original' car could well be far more difficult.
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Sept 28, 2017 20:36:10 GMT
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Been quiet of late as put half a new roof on the garage and other chores. BIVA work has continued though, I've added a bit of reinforcing to the rear seatbelt mounts - I'm sure they were fine but they are definitely fine now! Tricky welding in new steel without damaging the paint too much. Nothing photo worthy to show. Another little job is the front number plate mount. You cannot have number plates for the test but you do have to have a mount of sufficient size to show where a plate will go. A quick bit of programming on the CNC machine at work resulted in this; which will be mounted here with some nylon blocks that will clamp on to the grill bars.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,864
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Sept 28, 2017 20:51:15 GMT
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Have they changed the requirements recently as the only number plate space that you needed to allow for previously was the rear - Specifically because this has to be illuminated.
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Sept 28, 2017 22:27:37 GMT
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Oh? Will have to re-read that bit, I assumed both. Saves work if only rear needed.
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Sept 28, 2017 23:06:55 GMT
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But look on the bright side, you've the makings of a dashboard for the next project!
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Sept 28, 2017 23:22:49 GMT
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It only took about 60 seconds to machine
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Sept 29, 2017 12:24:07 GMT
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Andrew is correct, front plate panel is not required. Been advised to leave it on though as it's one less reason to fail.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,864
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Sept 29, 2017 12:41:48 GMT
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Unless they fail it on projection or radii - Leave it off, it's one less reason to fail For example: [pedant] - If a plate was fitted to that mount and the plate be larger than the mount the edge of the plate could fail on projection - For the test you would need to ensure the mount was larger in area than a standard rectangular plate so that the edge of the mount with correct radii was larger than a stock plate. [/pedant] See what I mean. - You cannot fail on something not required that's not there - but if you fit something that does not need to be there then it will then be tested and could fail.
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Last Edit: Sept 29, 2017 12:43:24 GMT by Darkspeed
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Sept 29, 2017 18:41:52 GMT
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Andrew, that was my thinking too - it is a little smaller than a regular plate. [pedant] they can only test what they can see so your plate arguement is not relevant [/pedant] I guess I'll make brackets (already got them) but leave it in boot of tow car, if they want one it can be fitted if required.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 29, 2017 18:51:40 GMT
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I need to really catch up with this again! Skimmed through the last few pages and am really impressed and pleased you're sticking with it Planning on severely chopping one of my cars about and some of your posts will be really helpful for a heads up on what I'm letting myself in for!
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,864
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Sept 29, 2017 19:13:34 GMT
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[pedant] they can only test what they can see so your plate arguement is not relevant [/pedant] Actually, that's not the case - Sorry to be a proper pedant here but if there was a mount they would actually have to test it as if you had a plate on it as that would be seen as the function of the mount. As an example, if you present a sports car for a test but do not fit a windscreen but the fixings and holes - even fitted with blanks - are there, the car would fail on no Windcreen / Screen demist / Heater / Washers Wipers and anything else associated with it, all because the holes and the ability to to fit one was there. The only way it would pass is if all the holes are filled and the screen could only be fitted with modifications to the body. They do not only test what they can see so my point is very relevant.
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Sept 29, 2017 20:04:14 GMT
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Sorry, should have explained better - mount will be part of the plate panel (just a nylon clamp to clamp on the grill bars with a bolt) so there will be nothing to see unless they ask for a plate mount area.
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Front plate is aparrently not required so will be left off for the test but as I had almost finished it I completed it anyway. It can sit in the boot and if required it fits in a few seconds. and how it can clamp on to the front grill. The hockey stick moulding is now painted up and fitted around the dash panel. And the nuts with roll pins for locking off the brake bias bar have been bought.
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Can't het this out of my mind:- BIVAman - I'd liked to have seen somewhere to stick a front numberplate. BPR (opening boot) - [Valerie Singleton] Well children, here's one I made earlier [/Valerie Singleton]
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Last Edit: Oct 2, 2017 0:33:48 GMT by georgeb
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George upwards (literally) & onwards - a while ago I sort of fixed the roof dash - was not happy with it as the fix restricted forward vision & looked a bit gash, been pondering it for months as I was going to remove it completely for the test but had a brainwave the other night I need to have a 5mm radius on pretty well everything in the roof around the head area - 2.5mm on edges of smaller items but main parts like the metal panels are 5mm - preferably (but not essential) with a deformable surface - thin layer of foam/vinyl cover or similar. The cover I made was padded downwards but this lowered the roof dash too much - but I can go BACKWARDS to get the radius I drew a bit up in Cad and ran it on the CNC machine at work to test the idea - 7mm tester peice fitted & it will work A full design cut out to test fit - needs some tweaking to get all the holes lined up properly; and laid over the dash. It will be cut out of 10mm so I can radius all edges with a 5mm radius cutter - might add a second 7mm layer over the guages to get the rings sunk right in to avoid any doubt of edges for the testers. A 'D' bar will go under the naked aircraft switches to keep the ball off the levers. It's led me on to another cunning plan to cover the map lights and switches too..........and mount the rearview mirror better......
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Following on roof dash progress, sample no 3 in yellow fits perfect - quite like the yellow, lol! Close up shows ball can no longer touch the aircraft switches with the D handle fitted (work donated that bit ) With the 10mm & 7mm sandwiched everything is recessed - no problems now will run a 6mm ogee router around all edges. My map reading lamp switches were also sharp enough to decapitate me so another panel was cut for the same thing - it also incorporated the mirror fitting with 8 different fitting points for full adjustability - the wood is hard enough to tap a thread into. Edges radiused; Very pleased with this, will add some soft padding plates to sides of dash to make sure the forward folds don't cause any issues too. plan view shows there is plenty of room to get to switches. Radiused now - but ball can touch the ring of the dial - so D handles may now be fitted below guages - I think we have some 2mm lexan at work so I might just glue a panel over the gauges instead as that is safer. Will check tomorrow.
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Mark
I commend your work, but what a load of tosh you are having to go through, all I can think is the second layer will probably make some of the switches harder to operate quickly if needed.
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