Davey
Posted a lot
Resident Tyre Nerd.
Posts: 2,335
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Thanks John, If you could send me a week as well that would be great  as I've got about 2 1/2 weeks to finish it for the NSRA Supernats! It's going to be really tight to do - I may have to deliberately leave some jobs & concentrate on just getting it drivable for now. Just use the wrong fixings, half as many as you need and leave everything finger tight? That's got to be worth a day or so.  |
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K11 Micra x3 - Mk3 astra - Seat Marbella - Mk6 Escort estate - B5 Passat - Alfa 156 estate - E36 compact
Mk2 MR2 T-bar - E46 328i - Skoda Superb - Fiat seicento - 6n2 Polo - 6n polo 1.6 - Mk1 GS300
EU8 civic type S - MG ZT cdti - R56 MINI Cooper S - Audi A3 8p - Jaguar XF (X250) - FN2 Civic Type R - Mk2 2.0i Ford Focus - Mercedes W212 E250
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As I'm waiting on parts to complete the stuff underneath the car I've made a start on bits that are on top  The aluminium throttle bracket is roughed out here;   and the slots cut for fixing the throttle & kickdown cable.  Then cut a bit of 1.5mm steel up,  Bash, bash, drill,drill, file, file and it ends up like this. The slot is not perfect but its fine for what it needs to do.  It all fits on here like this. The kickdown cable only moves 5mm to engage it so the plate allows 95% throttle travel before the last bit of travel engages the kickdown cable. A couple of washers and a split pin will fit it all together. This is with the throttle closed. The tabs will be gently crimped over the cable nipple once its painted.  And at full throttle travel; The correct throttle return springs are arriving tomorrow so I can make up the bracket for those and it can then all be polished up on the mop. I'll fit new carb studs in the manifold as 3 are missing and bolts have been used instead which is a recipe for stripping the threads at some point. |
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Davey
Posted a lot
Resident Tyre Nerd.
Posts: 2,335
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I'll fit new carb studs in the manifold as 3 are missing and bolts have been used instead which is a recipe for stripping the threads at some point. See, already saving time... |
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K11 Micra x3 - Mk3 astra - Seat Marbella - Mk6 Escort estate - B5 Passat - Alfa 156 estate - E36 compact
Mk2 MR2 T-bar - E46 328i - Skoda Superb - Fiat seicento - 6n2 Polo - 6n polo 1.6 - Mk1 GS300
EU8 civic type S - MG ZT cdti - R56 MINI Cooper S - Audi A3 8p - Jaguar XF (X250) - FN2 Civic Type R - Mk2 2.0i Ford Focus - Mercedes W212 E250
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Not much to report tonight as Mrs Blackpops car decided to break down on her way home from work. It's an Eco boomboost 1.6 turbo and it's always used a bit of coolant but tonight it lost a lot & overheated & went into safety mode. It was recovered home but I fear the worst of a cracked head or block as they are knowm for this - just what we needed  I'll buy an endoscope and look into the bores for coolant, if I find any I see a possible visit to webuyanycar very soon.......  Soooooo.....the trans fluid got delivered today;  As did the new throttle springs, so a bracket was made from some more ally angle and fitted.
Small step forward, the starter motor wiring was re-terminated and fitted back on to the starter motor - a new P clip was added to keep it away from the exhaust.
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Amazing how bad those ecoboom..boost engines are.
I live in a ford friendly circle of peeps and they are avoided at all cost....
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Yeah, we've had it a few years and it's always been fine, half a pint of water every couple of months.
There is no water in the oil or oil in the water, and now its cooled off ot runs nicely with no vapour in the exhaust, and it does not smell sweet.
I'll pull the plugs tomorrow and see if one is contaminated, usually cylinder 2 Apparently.
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misteralz
Posted a lot
I may drive a Volkswagen, but I'm scene tax exempt!
Posts: 2,474
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Jul 10, 2024 14:29:40 GMT
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I've only ever been in one vehicle with the EcoBoom motor, and it grenaded itself when I was in it. Had a weird misfire at a very specific rev range, then filled one cylinder with coolant. Fun times!
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Jul 10, 2024 15:12:01 GMT
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As it's a 1.6 I assume it's the turboed
4cyl sigma as fitted to fiesta ST's etc, not the 3cyl 1.0. The 1.0 is pretty good for head gaskets and unless it's been overheated most of the issues relate to substandard servicing and consequentional wet belt degradation, the 1.6 did have issues with headgaskets though, I think there was even a recall in the states around them overheating.
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Jul 11, 2024 15:18:31 GMT
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Well good news, plugs were all perfect and it appears that the fan speed controller (or fan) is the culprit. The fan will not kick in when I expect it to - although I can't get the engine past the midway point on the guage either - it just seems to not want to get past proper temp??.
Switching on the AC did not put the fan on until I pulled the fan relay out & refitted it - then the fan came on at a low speed only - though the AC was ice cold.
I'll hotwire the fan tonight to make sure it works at full chat to confirm the controller is not ramping up when it should. I've got a Boroscope now so after a good run I'll check the bores when cold for any coolant - though it always starts smoothly the next day - so no aparrent water in a cylinder.
It still does drink a bit of water all the time - about a litre every few weeks. This is a common fault - so thinking maybe some K seal or similar might be a good idea???
EDIT,
Yes it's the 1.6 Turbo 185 bhp model.
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,047 
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Jul 11, 2024 16:55:56 GMT
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Don't put any rad sealant in it, that will bung up something and give it circulation issues  Most likely cause for coolant loss may be the water pump |
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Jul 11, 2024 17:36:27 GMT
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I can't get the engine past the midway point on the guage either - it just seems to not want to get past proper temp??. I think you'd need a scan/OBD tool to see the actual engine temperature - I think the gauges are set to read cold, bang in the middle, or "too late". |
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Living vicariously through other people's projects!
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Jul 11, 2024 17:37:27 GMT
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you are probably best off getting a forscan set up onl around £20 and you can check what all the sensors are reading plus read and reset fault codes etc.
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Last Edit: Jul 11, 2024 17:38:07 GMT by kevins
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Jul 11, 2024 19:21:46 GMT
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I've got the forescan tool and software on laptop, so will have a look at the weekend. Engine seemed normal temp though, not over hot.
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Jul 11, 2024 23:01:49 GMT
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I'll look at mrs blackpops car over the weekend - fairly confident it's the fan controller but I got a boroscope delivered today so I'll inspect the pistons to confirm all is ok as well. Some good progress tonight, as it was such a warm sunny evening it seemed prudent to do a bit of painting. So the inner wings and the A posts were prepped & masked and a couple of layers of basecoat laid on.  Once these were dry I shot them over with 2 coats of clearcoat, they have turned out very metallic indeed - noice!   And the A posts;   One slight problem, my paint is a lot shinier that the car SOS paint  I did plan on then doing the fuel & brake lines, but got sidetracked fitting the new plug leads and sorting the engine wiring.  Annoyingly the alternator warning lamp (after adding a wire specially to make this work) does not seem to have a 12v output - it does say optional on the label on the alternator so it's not required for charging so I'm not sure whats up there. EDIT - just had a thought - is it 12v power to bulb and alty is the ground (to make bulb work) and once charging it goes to 12v thus cancelling the lamp? -can anyone confirm? Anyway.........I did then start on the fuel & brake lines  Fuel line union sorted and the new brake line to the rear is also completed and fits tight in all the clips now.  Just the new fittings and pipe on the rear axle to complete and that's another section ticked off. |
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,152
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EDIT - just had a thought - is it 12v power to bulb and alty is the ground (to make bulb work) and once charging it goes to 12v thus cancelling the lamp? -can anyone confirm? Yes that's normally how they work ( at least on older systems before Canbus, BCM's etc) |
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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Cheers Jimi, I should have remembered really - been a while since I've wired a car.
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Jul 12, 2024 14:34:28 GMT
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if the ign loads are managed by a relay you might want to put a diode in the wire too, the 12v from the alternator through the bulb can be enough to hold the relay closed when you key off and it keeps running.
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as I've got about 2 1/2 weeks to finish it for the NSRA Supernats! It's going to be really tight to do - I may have to deliberately leave some jobs & concentrate on just getting it drivable for now.
Fuel line union sorted and the new brake line to the rear is also completed and fits tight in all the clips now.