A tip for anyone reading on how to straighten out brake pipes.
First, get a bit of wood around 4" thick (or several thinner bits clamped/screwed/glued together) and drill a hole in it just slightly larger than the pipe outer diameter. For me I used a 6.5mm drill bit as the pipe is 6mm.
Then start feeding the pipe through the hole - it will need to be roughly straightened by hand to achieve this;
Run it through the hole about 3 or 4 times and it will be straight.
I then did a bit of bending partly on my tube bender, then by hand around an old brake caliper piston to finish, with the other bends put in to match the car shape.
And temporarily fitted here with some masking tape - it will end up replacing the black tubing.
I need to have a look at what lumps of ally we might have at work tomorrow for making some mounts for it.
If the copper pipe is to be used on the pressure side it may be an idea to solder two pipe crush fit olives on the ends and then push the pipe past them before fixing the pipe with jubilee clamps, if it's on a low pressure side you should be ok as long as they are not over tightened?
Nice pipe manipulation there not easy to do without collapsing the tube.
Pete, it's only venting to atmosphere so no real pressure. That's why I used 6mm tube, as the silicone is only 3mm bore its a really tight fit over it. I might run a small bead of solder around the ends anyway to create a bit of a barb but it does not require any clamps.
Then a bit more drilling and tapping later they look like this;I love the machining side of making stuff Next stage is to cut/file/linish/polish the mounts so they look smart. A pleasant 23.5 degrees in the garage today so a break for lunch now, extractor fan provides a nice breeze with these temps.
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Ha-ha, the loop is not really required as the red part that Darkspeed reccommended mostly does the job. Originally I was just going to do a simple 180 degree bend, but while doing it the full loop looked better. It also will catch any fuel droplets in the bottom of the loop so they should never escape to the outside world.
Anyway, garage this afternoon was a sultry 26.5 degrees, extractor fan most welcome to provide a breeze and drop it a few degrees at the same time.
So, some filing and sanding got the blocks to this stage;
And some work on the polishing mop brought the first one up like this;
I need to paint the copper line next in gloss grey to match the boot insides and dismantle half the car to remove the interior trim so I can drill and fix the mounts in.
Bump stops arrived from Summit Racing yesterday but only got a note through door about it as they did not bother to leave with a neighbour.
So I went online and booked it for redelivery today - but to my neighbours house as there are in all day at present. So arriving home I had another note in door saying unable to deliver as no-one in. So what was the point of accepting delivery next door???
Oh well, I'm off tomorrow so I can collect from the post office at least.
Well bumhats, looks like the bumpstops were an expensive error. Anyone need to buy some?
To fit them in a place that would work would also mean in general driving they would bottom out The problem is the rear end articulates so well the body rolls around the axle fixings as the outside edge of the tyres are so far from the fixings.
So...I raised the back of the car by an inch instead, not as drastic as it sounds as the suspension has settled a bit now so was a bit low at the back (though it did look good).
Arch not looking too bad for 6000 miles of use though, it was good to clean up my flange when I removed the arch.