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Jun 29, 2008 17:29:53 GMT
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i've seen about 3-4 this year on ebay so far. they are bit like marmite, you either like em or not.
try asking on triumph torque forum.
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Sept 29, 2008 16:40:21 GMT
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picked this up from spitsx (roy) as he's having a clearout of spit stuff. been after a fibreglass hasrdtop for a while but this also has the plexi glass sunroof. has some crack here and there but really pleased:-  also rested in place a roll hoop in place. will weld some pads in and bolt in. |
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Sept 30, 2008 9:24:44 GMT
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hood looks good matt, glad u like it. now pull your finger out and make some progress.
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Speedle
Posted a lot
Need a Country Rock band in the Hampshire Area? https://www.facebook.com/DirtRoadDiaryUK
Posts: 2,221
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Sept 30, 2008 15:01:22 GMT
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that hood does look awseome! now crack on man! we likes a good resto thread here you know  |
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update time.........first off I gave the old girl an oil and filter change. 30yo curse word slowly poured out the sump. and had a job trying to get the 30yo filter off too. note the threaded bit that came out with the filter.....curse word...the new doesn't have that...ah, ok, it unscrews and you put it on the new filter   I had previously put new plugs, leads dizzy cap, points , new coolant hose and a rad in etc on and with the old air filters removed, cranked the bird over. there was a lot of gum in the carbs but after a while she wanted to go. plenty of fuel leaking out the carbs and a decent spark got a very lumpy idle...yeay. left the carbs a while to soak in some fresh fuel then cleaned out the float chambers and made sure the float needs valves were OK. plenty of choke and the engine wanted to idle. I think the front carb needs attention. fuel was pi$$ing out the base of the float chamber where the tube enters...hmm..no difference when tightened.......... see carbs here  after I knew the engine was a goer, I moved to the rear suspension that was hosting plenty of spiders and creepy crawlies wheels off, bum up  crusty  bloody drum secureing screws had rusted solid. no choice but to drill em out. otherwise, all the bolts on the drivers side came out no problem at all. this was great cos i'd heard all the seized bolt based horror stories  not wee wee but bilt hamber rust eater  everything has a generous coating of surface rust and flakey paint/underseal mixed with soil  soil for tomatoes  |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,201
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Coming along nicely Matt! It's looking great. If you need another pair of hands with the project let me know  . |
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i stripped out the radius arms and verticals links from the drivers side but left the shaft, trunnion and hub bolted to the diff   moved round to the passenger side and repeat...  erm, no don't think so.......... despite wire brushing and soaking the bolts in wd40 for a week, all the bolts apart from the spring bolt and the shocker nut were seized solid. cue the angle grinder fitted with a very thin stainless steel disc, a hammer and cold chisel.   currently the radius arm is off but the trunnion bolt is still holding the trunnion on to the vertical link. bah anyway, admitting partial defeat, i moved on to getting the rear spring out. going in the through the cabin and popping 2 bolts behing the seats allows access through an inspection panel. hello....what..ah curse word more...well....curse word  more wd40 and wire brushing got the spring out but only 2 studs managed to stay in. think i'll order new studs. i bulked ordered a load of UNF nylocs in imperial flavours too for this rebuild.   whats the crack.....spring retaining plate that clamps the spring to the diff housing shouldn't. managed to get on off ebay for £4.50 delivered - will be going in the bilt hamber  |
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Coming along nicely Matt! It's looking great. If you need another pair of hands with the project let me know . cheers - might well hold you to that when i need to free the clutch plate off |
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good to see some progress again! KEEP AT IT!
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this week, i'm cleaning up the spring ready for some primer and top coat (not chassis black BTW.,,,). the other bits and bobs are in the bilt hamber slowly cleaning up. should be ready for paint at the weekend.
next job will be to get the shafts off and the diff out as its leaking. shaft and prop UJ's seem to be OK. wheel bearings too
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,627
Club RR Member Number: 1
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The needles may be sticking open in your float chambers mate, I had the same on the Midget.
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yeah took them out and checked them. the rear one was sticking (known issue on the spits) but was then ok once de-gummed (put a new float chamber gasket on too).
the problem now is the seal where the jet pipe screws into the float bowl. it was replaced with a new one by the PO but i think the o ring isn't doing its job (or missing)
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well, only a bit of progress this weekend on the spit as i've been doing swmbo house stuff and also sorting out a few isues on the mini. this is one of the rear vertical links that in the previous pictures had really heavy surface corrosion. a week or so in the bilt hamber -  rear spring after a brushing, one coat of "International" anti-rust primer and one top coat of battleship grey metal gloss  same again for one of the radius arms  |
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786 
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Looking good there fella. These things can be a pain to get apart after tears of 'use' but i always find them pretty easy to work on in general. Very satisfying work i'm sure.
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its all a bit odd. this car has stood for 30+years in a dry garage then been on my driver for the last 18months under cover. some stuff came out real easy like they'ed been fitted yesterday. other stuff was completed seized.
nice to see a contrast from super crusty to nice and clean
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i've managed to get both rear drive assemblies off the car and have started to clean/paint them up. bearings seem nivce and smooth and the UJ's appear to have no play so will leave well alone. Before:-  After a good wirebrushing,l degrease and one coat of antirust primer  i've also asked on the trioumph forum about the these holes. its the driveshaft flange that bolts to the diff. the holes appear oval. they look uniform so not sure if its supposed to be like that or its is actual wear. the bolts have a corresponding "waisted"aection too    |
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Jul 29, 2009 10:49:05 GMT
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Err. . good work on the paint, did mine a few weeks ago, fun job. as for the holes, my 1970 herald has circle holes not oval. I don't think they are supposed to be oval, you can get new ones for about £10 each from TD Fittchets but watch out as new UJ's don't seem to fit well in old mounts.
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DutyFreeSaviour
Europe
Back For More heartbreak and disappointment.....
Posts: 2,944
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Jul 29, 2009 11:52:31 GMT
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Definitely not oval as standard mate - mine are still of the circular variety.
As Spit says - cheap enough but I had a complete nightmare getting the 'new' uj's into the driveshafts on the 2500S.
I'm contemplating chickening our and going for the full mgf conversion when I attack the spit!
Great work so far fella - one bonus on these things being like a meccano kit for adults ;D
This make the RR?
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Back from the dead..... kind of
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Jul 29, 2009 12:23:16 GMT
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well, thats 3 people now who have confirmed the flanges are fubared. looks like the car was driven for many miles with loose bolts. bolt shoulders have worn too.  UJ's have no slop so might just leave alone. will order some new flanges and 5/16 bolts |
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Aug 26, 2009 17:35:18 GMT
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obviously to clean up the axle tunnel, ideally the body should come off but that isn't gonna happen. the underside of this area has got a heavy coat of surface rust, no perforation etc. I managed to get a wire brush in there and gave it all a good scrubbing. just done the drivers side so far with a good coat of kurust. must have slopped on about 3 coats worth in one session. everything has gone really black. before:   after:   i'll key the surface with a scotch pad then apply a couple of coats of bondaprimer, then finish off with some black rustoleum |
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