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Mar 28, 2024 20:30:45 GMT
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Thanks motardman. Mine is only a 1 litre but it goes perfectly well, and yes the brakes are really terrible on mine too! I'll be trying to do something about that, try a good brake service with new fluid and braided lines and take it from there. Thanks for your interest!
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1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,336
Club RR Member Number: 160
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1987 Volkswagen Polo BreadvanRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Mar 28, 2024 22:17:22 GMT
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Thanks motardman. Mine is only a 1 litre but it goes perfectly well, and yes the brakes are really terrible on mine too! I'll be trying to do something about that, try a good brake service with new fluid and braided lines and take it from there. Thanks for your interest! The lack of servo makes the brakes quite alarming against even anything else of the era. You can use a bulkhead cut from a 2F polo to add a servo. I can't remember if I did that or not when I did a 1.3GT 2F drivetrain and harness swap into a 2. Can't find any pics of doing it sadly.
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Thanks motardman. Mine is only a 1 litre but it goes perfectly well, and yes the brakes are really terrible on mine too! I'll be trying to do something about that, try a good brake service with new fluid and braided lines and take it from there. Thanks for your interest! The lack of servo makes the brakes quite alarming against even anything else of the era. You can use a bulkhead cut from a 2F polo to add a servo. I can't remember if I did that or not when I did a 1.3GT 2F drivetrain and harness swap into a 2. Can't find any pics of doing it sadly. That's good to know, I'll certainly look into that option. Thanks
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1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
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Mar 29, 2024 10:00:59 GMT
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For the brakes I found on my elan most modern mainstream pads are hopeless for a non servo car, greenstuff ones transformed it.
That said I used to be involved with testing a lot of cars in the mid to late 90's VW's were the only ones we always had to order spare brakes for.
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Mar 29, 2024 18:42:55 GMT
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For the brakes I found on my elan most modern mainstream pads are hopeless for a non servo car, greenstuff ones transformed it. That said I used to be involved with testing a lot of cars in the mid to late 90's VW's were the only ones we always had to order spare brakes for. Interesting, I thought greenstuff were meant to be curse word unless you got your brakes very hot. I'll try them. I've tried blackstuff which were meant to be the regular road pads, wasn't overly impressed.
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1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
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jmotor
Part of things
Posts: 54
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Superb work on the Bready.
Yeah, that area behind the filler neck is a tricky bit and you did the right thing lop the whole quarter off. Looks sooo much easier to repair everything instead of working through a letter box!
I had the same area to repair on a Polo I owned a few years ago, was quite lucky as I didn't have to repair as much of the corner. It was a sub 40k miler car. My heart sank when I discovered a small hole peaking through. As it never stays a small rust hole!
I run greenstuff brake pads on my Altezza. It's a 1400kg, 200bhp saloon and they work fine from cold with good performance. I followed the bedding in period recommended by EBC and so far no issues.
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Mar 30, 2024 13:24:26 GMT
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Thanks jmotor. Good to get another positive review on the greenstuff pads.
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1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
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The brakes were nasty even when new, postage stamp sized pads. later G40s had better hubs with decent calipers. The 1.4 golf mk3 engine is the biggest that uses the same mounts. Back in the day I went from one of these to a mk2 16v golf and scared the curse word out of myself with the speed difference
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Right, well I got a bit done yesterday afternoon when the kids were out on a jolly. Got the hole for the fuel neck cut out, using the template I took from the old one. I offered up the rear quarter and marked off the rusty area to be cut out at the bottom of the window aperture. I needed to fix the inner skin before welding the quarter back on. Then repaired the inner skin. Repair plate is oversize, to be trimmed back later. Then I sorted out a few bits of surface rust on the back of the rear quarter, removed as much as practical and brushed on some Vactan rust converter to deal with the rest. Then I refitted the quarter, and started the long process of slowly welding around the edges of the panel. In between welds I cut out the section I wanted from the new arch panel. Bad quality panel but easier than making my own, and it can be fettled to fit just fine. Offered up the arch panel, it was a bit too long so a cut near the back to shorten it by 5mm and it sits nicely. Original rusted arch section removed and the new arch tacked into place Fuel neck hole fully cut out and the flange welded, welds complete around the quarter and arch repair. It was getting late by the time I finished this so I decided to dress the welds another day, my neighbours probably prefer not to be serenaded by an angle grinder on a Sunday night. Ignore the pile of filler on the bottom of the quarter, the new sill comes quite far up the quarter so I'll be cutting that out, soon. I also have this hole to sort, need to pop out the window on the other side to make a template. More next weekend. Probably. Thanks for reading! Pete
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1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
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teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 2,125
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That's pretty good for an afternoon. It would probably take me a fortnight to do that much.
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That's pretty good for an afternoon. It would probably take me a fortnight to do that much. Spare time is really hard to come by when you've got little kids and run a business, got to make the most of it. I'd rather do it at a more leisurely pace but also I want to get to drive it this century!
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1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
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Apr 14, 2024 22:28:51 GMT
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Fantastic work PM! But I do blame you for my recently acquired obsession with welding stuff... 👍🏼
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1984 Mercedes 190 d...
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Apr 21, 2024 17:12:21 GMT
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Fantastic work PM! But I do blame you for my recently acquired obsession with welding stuff... 👍🏼 Sup bro! Happy to be a bad influence
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1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
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Apr 21, 2024 17:53:14 GMT
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Small update. Made this annoying little panel. To go in this hole. Made a bit of a c*ck of it, cut it a bit short. But it welded up alright. Also got all the welds dressed from last session. It dressed quite nicely with hardly any warping, which is the aim of the game. I then had planned to fit the sill to finish off welding on this side, but I found this bit of rust at the front of the sill. I'm not sure if I noticed it before and I've just got more fussy with the project or I might have just missed it originally. Either way, it had to get sorted. Looks like it had been patched previously, this is the floor behind the rusted inner sill. I had to chop out this jacking point strengthening fella And then hacked merrily at it until I had this hole. Welded up... Then a coat of rust converter on the bare metal to protect it until next time. I have until now been a fan of Vactan rust converter, but it separates in the bottle and you need to shake the hell out of it before using, and sometimes it goes on chalky and doesn't seem to work properly. After following commycouper 's LT build, thought I'd try the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 stuff. Same principle as Vactan but it doesn't separate in the bottle and so far, I prefer it. That lot somehow took 6 hours. I'll get the sill on next time. Honest.
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1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
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Hi Peter, what a great little project you've got going on here! 'Little' as in the size of the car....not the scale of work it requires 😁. I've used an array of different rust treatment products over the last few years. Hydrate 80 is definitely my favourite. Don't get me wrong, only time will tell if it actually does what is says on the tin, but out of the products I've used so far, it looks to be the most promising. The product I will never ever use again is POR 15. I blasted my front hubs, light bowls and a few other bits nearly 3 years ago. Once there was no visible rust on them, I de-greased everything and painted on the POR 15. I then popped it all on a shelf, and thats where it all stayed until a few weeks ago. Everything that was painted with POR 15 had rust coming through. Not just a little bit either, but loads peppered all over. You can even see the rust tracking under the paint. I started to pick at the rust on the light bowl and the POR 15 literally came off in strips. I did exactly the same process on some other cast and steel components about 2 years ago using Hydrate 80 and there's not a spec of rust on them. Plus, have you tried to remove Hydrate 80 once it's dried....it's not easy....which surely has to be a good thing! Anyway, that's some excellent fabrication work going on there. Looks like you're making good progress too.
Dan.
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Opel Commodore A Coupe Opel Rekord C Coupe Opel Rekord C Saloon Vauxhall Magnum Coupe V8 (Magnumania) Mk1 Scirocco GLS Mk1 Scirocco GLS (early chrome bumper) Corrado G60 Mk1 Cortina 2 door Pre Airflow Mk2 Escort 1300 2 Door VW LT35 Tipper Truck BMW 320D E91 Tourer
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Super to see a Polo in the hands of a craftsman! I had a 1988 E reg as my first car. It had the 1043cc engine and that was plenty fast enough!
Mine had a lift out pop up sunroof and single speaker radio - happy times! 😎
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