andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,218
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Dec 14, 2023 16:43:26 GMT
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other thoughts. What inlet manifold are you running and do the coolant ports line up ok with the heads. Is the heater circuit plumbed in and open(this is the bypass on RV8's). Thermostat is the right way round? First, thanks everyone for still trying to help. I'm waiting at the moment for parts to arrive for the failed boat anchor, but since my last post, I have replaced the water pump, slightly re-routed the bottom hose to remove the slight kink it had and rewired the electric fans and changed where in the top hose the heater feeds into, now further from the thermostat. I'm waiting for stepper motor temp gauge to arrive. Yes, you've guessed it, the capillary tube on the new temp gauge got damaged and is now junk! I'm sure this car has a big bad gremlin living in it who hates me more than anything else in the world! (anyone remember the Gremlins cartoon strip in Custom Car magazine back in the 70's!) Anyway, it's got a Edlebrock manifold which does line up pretty well. A good quality gasket was also used and care was taken to ensure it fitted well. The heater takes it's feed from the back of the inlet manifold, through the heater and into the top hose. It has a one way valve fitted into the pipe from the heater, water can only flow from the manifold and into the top hose. Stat has been removed and checked, it works and I even double checked on the internet to make sure I hadn't gone mad and fitted it the wrong way round! Because this is a SERPS engine, the water pump hasn't got a by-pass, the by-pass is in the stat. I can't use the correct stat (lack of room), so have the above water circuit. I believe the only drawback to this, is a slower warm up? |
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Last Edit: Dec 14, 2023 16:44:24 GMT by andyborris
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,218
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Dec 14, 2023 16:48:32 GMT
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Car is now messing with my brain, making me paranoid. Just watched 2 Youtube videos on thermostat fitting to make sure!
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Dec 14, 2023 20:14:44 GMT
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It's grumlins.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,218
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Dec 16, 2023 16:52:04 GMT
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OK, the new stepper gauge is fitted, looks a bit too "fast & Furious" for the old Landy   But as I didn't have Smiths Retro coin, it'll have to do. 2 issues (of course!) 1st is non important parts missing and the 2nd is the sender. It looks completely different to the one in the instructions having only a single wire terminal, the instructions show a 2 terminal with attached loom, so I don't know if it'll work! Didn't get a chance to test it against a hot water source. However when I wired it with a live to the terminal and earthed the other wire, it did light up, make whirring noises and move the needle, so half the battle. Whilst doing this, the lights and wipers decided to stop working! Not my fault, the Landy had been re-wired before I got it, have some pictures of the re-wire and see how many problems you can spot.     Fused relays behind the dash that's bolted in, meaning a dash removal to change a fuse, household 3 core wire removed from the outer insulator and "in at the top of the chart" fuses used a wire connector! Anyway, will start a fresh thread about the wiring, what was going to be a slow summer job, now needs to be done sooner rather than later. Will try to get some lights and wiper, I'd like to drive it to see if it overheats! And if anyone can offer advice on wiring a stepper coolant gauge, please do. |
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Dec 16, 2023 19:49:34 GMT
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A 2 wire connector is likely to be a connection for power from the gauge and an earth
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,218
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Dec 17, 2023 16:52:42 GMT
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Well, that didn't work.
Either it's very faulty or the sender isn't right for the gauge, it overreads by about 55%!
Have emailed Rally Design to see what they say, disappointed because it's another backwards step and Rally Design products are normally pretty good.
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turbogeek
Part of things
Posts: 40 
Member is Online
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What made you suspect the heads/gaskets being at fault in the first place?
Can you share a diagram of the cooling circuit? It might be the picture in your first posts, but it looks like the 90° bend coming out of the manifold at the front of the engine is very high - could it be airlocking?
Have you tried taking the heater matrix out of the circuit - could the water be taking the "easy route" around the matrix, and not flowing through the radiator?
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Living vicariously through other people's projects!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,218
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Jan 15, 2024 17:10:07 GMT
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Sorry, just seen your reply.
Exhaust gas in coolant (could see it bubbling!), pressurising without over-heating and sniff testing.
At the moment I've stopped thinking about overheating and started re-wiring, worried about an electrical fire! I do have a build thread now and I'll use that to get advice and document successes or failures!
The 90 bend in the top hose is unavoidable, given the space and location of the engine versus the rad. Can't take the heater circuit completely out of the loop, it's the pump bypass when the thermostat is shut.
The heater used to feed into the top hose just below the 90 bend, but I'm not sure that would've provided an easy route for the coolant to bypass the rad. It has now been relocated into the highest point of the top hose with the fan switch lower in the upright potion of the top hose.
I may also look at shortening the down part of the top hose, hopefully it'll provide less of an air gap in the top hose.
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