owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Dec 20, 2023 20:38:56 GMT
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Nothing much happened on the car, I have been knocking down a wall to make my drive easier to access. I have collected some box section to start strengthening bits of the chassis  The headlights that fit in the wings  1 more slot mags  And most importantly the tandem fuel pump off the rolls royce  I also got given the original log book for the car from when it was new, the reg is different to the reg on the car now, although my v5c doesn't say anything about it not being a transferable reg, so maybe the reg was changed when it was converted to a hot rod originally. Need to crack on it the new year |
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Last Edit: Dec 20, 2023 20:41:29 GMT by owen
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jjp666
Part of things
Posts: 139
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Dec 21, 2023 20:58:42 GMT
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,352
Club RR Member Number: 64
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1939 Morris Eight V8glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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I sold a few registrations back in the late 90s, early 00s, and normally the V5 would come back with the new age-related number and the clear statement “non-transferable”; but a couple of times it didn’t have that on it. Both times I was able to transfer the age related one as well. Bonus. I think it was a glitch at the time, back when there was still a human element in the process, and inspections were carried out at local offices.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Small update, we went over to Iceland for Christmas so haven't been in the garage a while, then we collected a jimny for my sons first car, had to make some tweaks to it, straighten the steering wheel, adjust the clutch, check the spark plugs ect. So only just got back to the morris, I decided to make a rubber grommet for the wiper lever to come through the bulkhead, I used a large tyre valve 20mm one, and machined the correct grove in it so it sit tight in the bulkhead  Got this little lathe which will come in handy for a few little jobs  Then I started trying to sort the gear selector, I was given a bmw one which hasn't worked out, then I swapped the original linkage around so it's above the pivot point instead of below. This means I can make my own shifter rat style using a bit of round bar   It's a bit long at the moment but you can get the idea. I need to work out how I am going to lift the body off next |
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Last Edit: Jan 10, 2024 0:33:27 GMT by owen
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Jan 12, 2024 15:34:19 GMT
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Gear selector progress, I found an old shock Bush metal insert in the boxes of junk I have, it's about 4mm walled with an 8mm hole up it, I got to play with the lathe, I machined the 10mm round down to 8mm so its a quite a tight fit   Then I tapped the gear linkage to 12mm, ran a bolt down it. Then cross drilled the 2 gearstick and the bush parts. I then welded the old shock Bush part to the head of the 12mm bolt   I made it like this so it can be taken apart easy without having to take the tunnel out, I then did some measuring and cut the slot in the tunnel.  Next I need to make a splash cover, probably us some rubber mat and make 2 brackets so it slides along the under side of the tunnel. Also need to make a neutral lock and a park lock, I might design a cable operated mechanism to lock it at neutral and park |
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Jan 16, 2024 11:41:04 GMT
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Ordered lots of new bits and they have started to arrive, Hydro handbrake which is going to have a set of small alloy 2 pot Calipers mounted on top of the disc  12v compressor to start the air suspension setup, this is a very basic setup just 2 pump/exhaust buttons one for front and one for rear for now  Some stainless rivets to start getting floors and stuff fixed  Lots more bits on route, so will be cracking on soon |
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Last Edit: Jan 16, 2024 20:58:56 GMT by owen
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Jan 16, 2024 20:53:42 GMT
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Started a quick mockup, should be enough space for the handbrake  Not going to get much shopping in the boot though 😂  |
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Last Edit: Jan 16, 2024 20:58:31 GMT by owen
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Jan 17, 2024 11:28:20 GMT
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More new bits, v8 defender engine mounts £10 a pair, rolls ones were £60 each second hand so I will make these work  |
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Jan 17, 2024 11:35:45 GMT
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Classic mini yellow tag master cylinder, this is designed with 2 differen bore sizes 0.7" front 0.75" rear so should give a decent brake balance  |
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Jan 17, 2024 12:04:28 GMT
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Drill powered rivet gun, was £9.16, so will see if its any good soon  This is the Calipers I will use for hand brake  |
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Jan 17, 2024 13:06:53 GMT
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Rivnut kit arrived, will be a handy tool I feel  |
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Jan 17, 2024 20:43:54 GMT
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Had some time in the garage tonight, an hour finding a roll of brake pipe I knew I had. threw the master cylinder in loose and there's enough space for it, will get a photo when I remember, then onto the gearbox mount that is not there, tried a load of different bolts in the holes not knowing what thread it is. Then came up with the wise idea of trying the land rover mount in it, turns out there the same thread  So this makes things easier, so the plan is, when my angle gauge turns up, set the ride height some where near the angle I want it. Then set the transmission flange angle and make the box mounts. Make the 2 engine mounts up thst are broken using the landy mounts. Set the pinion angle and finish welding the rear end up. Then move the front axle forward 12 inches. Then we are getting close |
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Last Edit: Jan 17, 2024 20:45:03 GMT by owen
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Jan 18, 2024 12:44:51 GMT
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Few more goodies brake tees, master cylinder clevis, Hydro unions  Angle meter  Alternator belt  10mm wheel spacers to pull the rear wheels out a little  |
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Jan 18, 2024 16:25:00 GMT
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More new bits, v8 defender engine mounts £10 a pair, rolls ones were £60 each second hand so I will make these work I used these on a Mk1 escort as "ford" ones were 3x the price.... |
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Jan 18, 2024 19:21:54 GMT
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Probably won't be much of an issue for you but when I used the pattern ones on my Range Rover they were noticibly harsher than the originals.
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Jan 18, 2024 20:47:04 GMT
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Probably won't be much of an issue for you but when I used the pattern ones on my Range Rover they were noticibly harsher than the originals. The other engine mount option was to bolt it solid, so anything should be better than that😂 |
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owen
Part of things
Posts: 287
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Came into a bit of a problem possibly, the gearbox out put was sat really bad, I have lifted the box around 6 inches to get it to 3.5 degrees of flange angle.  I can't find any solid details on the angle it should run at, but the carburettor tops sit level at that  Problem is, the transmission is a big lump to hide in this tiny cabin as it is. I think it was running at 6 degrees initially, which to me seems a lot. Options are drop the engine an inch or 2 to counteract the output shaft angle? How many degrees can I get away with since the back axle is designed to run at 0 |
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Jan 19, 2024 10:01:23 GMT
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Everyone has a different opinion and it's dependant on factors like the prop length and RPM I would suggest an absolute max of 5 degrees and idealy around 3 max, you also don't want zero as the joints wear out quicker aim for a minimun of around 1/2 degree.
Oh and remember it's not just the angles of the diff and gearbox, the relative heights affect the angle too.
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Last Edit: Jan 19, 2024 10:03:55 GMT by kevins
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Jan 19, 2024 10:48:15 GMT
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I always understood that the flanges should be parallel with each other but not inline because as said the joints can 'freeze'. So offset either up or down or left to right is OK. If not, phasing the joints can help if there are vibrations.
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