gazzam
Part of things
Posts: 740 
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Been doing various small jobs on the Jag over the past few days. Finished the last door card and got it back in place, so that’s the interior finished for the moment. Made a couple of rear door buffers. The ones on the car had gone soft and deformed.  Started by drilling some holes in an ARB rubber.  Then cut it close to size.  And finished them with the belt sander.  In place. Doors shut with a nice thunk.  Also did some fiddling with the ignition. Took the distributor out and cleaned the centrifugal advance.  While it wasn’t seized, I must have pleased the gods of spark, because the car was running much better after. Maybe I freed it up. Much less backfiring. These cars had vacuum retard on the distributor, and I’ve heard conflicting reports on whether that’s needed or not with the ignition system I’ve used. I’m right out of my comfort zone with this stuff, but the advance unit above has 18 degrees stamped on it and from what I’ve read they probably need more than that, The existing vacuum unit was kaput, so I thought I’d make it so I could at least fix the trigger unit in place, and maybe have the ability to adjust some more advance into it. Drilled a hole in it and silver soldered a nut on, so I could put a bolt in it and lock it.  And started to do some more to the carbs. I found out about this.  That’s a bimetal strip that lifts the plastic plunger and opens a port when it gets hot. Was told by someone who should know that these are A GOOD THING. I thought that it was part of the emissions stuff and the book had dire warnings about it, so I left it alone. But now I took the carbs back off and cleaned it so that the plunger moves freely. Adjusted it so it is just closed at cold and moves open when the heat gun is waved in its general direction. And made a small gauge so I could set the float levels at least consistently, if probably incorrectly. 18.5 mm if anyone is interested or knows this is wildly wrong. This setting is apparently a closely guarded secret. I got that number from a TR6 forum. Same carb apparently. I think, I’ve looked at so much stuff I’m getting confused…  Thanks. |
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Aug 17, 2023 19:14:17 GMT
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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gazzam
Part of things
Posts: 740
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That’s probably the one, but I’m not looking. I’ve gone with 18.5 and don’t want any more confusion! Finished the carbs and reinstalled them. It is easier the second time. Once I had them mounted, I pulled the plugs as it was missing on the left side. All the plugs on that side were black, one was wet. That’ll be the miss. Cleaned them and put them back in. Started it and the miss was gone. Let it warm up, and then it was time to see about getting the carbs synced. Used this.  And I must say, it was a breeze. It’s really just a matter of separating the linkages between the carbs and then going back and forth adjusting the throttle screws on each carb, till they’re all reading the same on the device above. And getting the idle speed to where you want it. This motor is nice and smooth at 700 rpm. The hardest part is getting at the little bolt on the clamp that locks the carb linkages together. The lack of adjustability on the needle/ jet makes it simpler. And the test of raising the slides a fraction showed that the mixture is pretty well spot on, maybe just a touch lean. But it’s starting beautifully, idles smoothly and has heaps of power. Exhausts feel the same, when you hold your hands behind the outlets. I checked the timing, it’s at 12 btdc, might have a fiddle with this after I get it registered and drive it on the road. Definitely if it’s pinging. I’m very pleased. As well, these were in the mail.  Not the chrome bit, just the badges. The V12 is secondhand, not available new apparently. But it’s way better than the one I had.  The Jag head was missing from my car, so it’ll be nice to have one back in place. I used some TRex adhesive on the back, so once that’s set I’ll put it back on the grille. Thanks. |
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gazzam
Part of things
Posts: 740
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Yesterday was a bit of a milestone for the Jag. For the first time in ten years it’s registered. On what we know as “club plates” or historic rego. The best deal going in this state. I can drive it on 60 days in the 12 months for the total of $96AUD That includes $50 for the plates, next year it will be $46 including 3rd party personal insurance. So I took it for a short drive, only about 5km. It did everything right, but as my better half was away at band practice, I didn’t have anyone to rescue me. I will take it further as it gains my trust… The temperature and fuel gauges aren’t working, but once I was home I zapped the motor in a few spots with an infrared and 75C was the highest I saw. It doesn’t tell me how much fuel was left… So I took the gauges out, nothing obviously wrong. Removed the glass and cleaned them up. The difference is very pleasing.  There really is glass in that speedo. Had to do a few repairs on the plastic housing that covers the wiper and indicator switches.  The boot wouldn’t stay open and one of the straps on the lhs hinge was obviously adrift, so I removed it for a closer look.  Once I’d taken the remaining pivot out the problem was obvious. The holes were a bit worn, but the pins were really bad.  So I made some new pins with a larger diameter. Just out of mild steel bar.  Added some weld where the wear in the pins had allowed the straps to cut into the body. And where the spring had worn it down.  Reamed the holes back to circular and reassembled. Peened the ends of the pins with a small cold chisel, almost looks original.  I thought the other hinge would be similar, so I did it as well. As it happens it was different. Much less wear on the pins. Now they’re the same as the ones on the other side, so I think they’ll be ok for another 50 years… No visible means of support. Nice not to have a stick holding it up. And getting clouted when you bump the stick.  Thanks. |
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nord
Kinda New
Posts: 6
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Seeing an XJ that ia not a complete rustbucket gives me hope of ever owning one.
Exceptional craftmanship, just keep going!
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Volvo:
'88 765 M57D25, '90 744 Turbo EvolutionII 16S, '86 780 Diesel
+ 960 x6, 940 x12, 760 x5, 740 x12, 360 x1, C10M Exclussive
Mercedes:
'03 W220, '91 W124 220D 16V, '81 W126 500SE, '79 W116 280SE, '76 W116 280SE
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gazzam
Part of things
Posts: 740
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Thanks nord.
Good luck finding an XJ, though I doubt there will be many as rust free as this one, particularly in your part of the world (assuming Europe)
I would love to get stuck into making this one pretty, the retrimming in particular.
But I promised myself that I’d get the Triumph done next.
And there’s another one in the queue after that.
So the Jag will have a bit of a wait.
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gazzam
Part of things
Posts: 740
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Took the XJ out for a drive the other day and there was a bit of a clunking noise coming from the front. When I got home I found this.  My first thought was mice, because that red stuff looks exactly like the mouse bait I use. But then I realised it was the remains of the front upper shock bush. Both sides were the same. So I ordered these. Genuine, not cheap.  It was only the top half of the old ones that had disintegrated.  Nice easy job, and true to form with this car the nuts undid easily. Didn’t get time to take it out for a run to check that it’s cured the noise, but I’m fairly confident. Thanks. |
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nze12
Part of things
Posts: 193
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Oct 31, 2023 19:37:41 GMT
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Took the XJ out for a drive the other day and there was a bit of a clunking noise coming from the front. When I got home I found this. Right back at you - XJS after 10 years storage, I thought it was rats. These aftermarket bushings definitely need ongoing scrutiny!   |
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1986 BMW E30 refreshed to original spec
1973 BMW E12 520 converting to Motorsport 530
1982 XJS V12 converting to 5 speed manual
Many landscaping projects overriding above!
Cogito cogito ergo cogito sum!
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gazzam
Part of things
Posts: 740
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The XJ has had a bit of a clunking noise in the rear since it’s been on the road. I thought I must have installed the left hand sender at the wrong angle, and the float was hitting the inside of the tank. So I hadn’t replaced the valence, and thought I’d empty that tank and then fix it. Jacked the car up to remove the rear wheel and as I raised it I could hear the noise. And it’s coming from the other side! Which I’ve just brimmed. I would have bet good money that the sound was from the lhs. Anyway I pulled the bumper and replaced the panel. Blurry progress shot.  And I must note how liberating it is not to care about the paint. I’m sure that when I’ve painted this car, and I am much looking forward to having it looking nice, putting the bumper back on will be a drama. A two person job. But since I don’t really care about it’s current paintwork, I replaced it by myself and can guarantee I didn’t mark it one little bit. So now I’ll use the right hand tank and have a fiddle with the sender on that side when it’s empty.  Thanks. |
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Thanks for keeping us updated. The V12 is a fascinating engine and getting it to run correctly is very satisfying.
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