jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 681
Club RR Member Number: 121
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Dec 15, 2022 17:14:17 GMT
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Hi all! Having not done it before, I'm looking for some advice on fitting glass and have a couple of questions.... I got my VW T25 back from the bodyshop recently, however, it only has 4 of the 8 windows fitted; one of which is leaking (windscreen). Question 1 - refitting the remaining windowsThe only glass I’ve ever re-fitted was a rear side window in my Mk2 Golf which involved some paracord and colourful language. Assuming paracord is still the way to go, what is the best lube to use to aid installation? WD40? Silicone spray - poss detrimental to paint? Vaseline? ‘Adult’ party gel?  I know washing up liquid is a no-go due to the salt. Question 2 - SealingThere’s a bunch of conflicting advice about whether the screen should be installed dry or have sealant. According to the Bentley manual my van should have sealant on the screen only. It’s been installed dry and judging by the fact my brand new screen and new OEM rubber still leaks I’m inclined to agree. ‘Arbomast Autograde’ seems to be the go-to from what I’ve researched. Non-setting and specifically designed for windscreens. Do I need to remove the screen again and ‘seal’ where the rubber meets the frame OR should I be fitting the screen first and then running a bead under the rubber to the body all the way round? Be cool to have a vague idea before I either break the screen make a complete mess  Thanks in advance!  |
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Last Edit: Dec 15, 2022 17:16:21 GMT by jmsheahan
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Dec 15, 2022 17:29:50 GMT
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if you pry the chrome infil strip out there should be enough give to run a bead under the rubber, re-fit the strip and clean the mess up with a plastic scrapper then panel wipe (check a hidden area of paint for reaction first, it should be fine but better safe than sorry).
it may be you can even get the nozzle in with the chrome strip still there, give it a try!
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Dec 15, 2022 20:30:54 GMT
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When I fit glass I run a bead of Arbomast in the glass slot of the rubber then fit it to the car. Once fitted I run another bead of arbomast under the rubber to the car body.
Scoop excess off with a filler applicator and then wipe off the rest with panel wipe.
Repeat 2 days later when any excess Arbomast squeezes out.
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I did my Humber Hawk screen with it in the car (no way was I taking that out!). It had been installed dry and leaked profusely in the rain.
Both the glass seal and body seal went well, just very time consuming. Be aware that not all chrome trims can be removed to make it easier. Some, like the Humber are fitted installed in the rubber.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-(
2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap
V8 Humber Hawk
1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD
1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 282 
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Dec 16, 2022 10:51:52 GMT
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I've used water based lube sold for pulling electrical cables through ducting - works well. I have used other water based lubes recently - the bottle in the garage causes a few double takes  I've been using electrical cable for the cord - maybe 4mm outside diameter, multi-strand, pvc covered. Strong, and slides nicely along the rubber and the metal. Can't comment on sealants as I've never used, or needed, any. |
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jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 681
Club RR Member Number: 121
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Dec 19, 2022 11:01:27 GMT
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Thanks for all of the replies!
Sounds like I’m heading in the right direction then and that fitting the screen THEN running a bead under the rubber to body is the right way to apply. If I end up taking the screen back out, I'll put a small amount in the window channel too as per blackpopracings advice. Thank you!
The chrome trim on my van is actually just decorative plastic, easy enough to remove and re-install and it’s not crucial to the glass integrity like it is on some classics.
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Last Edit: Dec 19, 2022 11:31:19 GMT by jmsheahan
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Dec 19, 2022 15:57:28 GMT
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Is this Arbomast stuff easy to remove again?
I have water curse word in the back screen of my '69 Mercury and I know the "real" fix is to take out the screen, carefully peel back the vinyl roof, repair any rust damage to the channel, paint properly, refit the screen, replace the vinyl.... but the car is my "daily" and I am not able to do that much work on it now. I have another late 60s Ford in the garage now with the screens out and its vinyl roof removed and thats been there a year now....
So I want something which will effectively stop the leaks for now but when I come to strip it down to do the job properly I won't be tearning my hair out wishing I'd used something else...
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Dec 19, 2022 18:17:16 GMT
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Panel wipe or white spirit, either work well.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-(
2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap
V8 Humber Hawk
1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD
1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Dec 19, 2022 18:28:37 GMT
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Firstly fold the rubber back hard and you can roll the majority of it out with your thumb. If it's old you will get 95% of it out this way (but you wil get a very black thumb, lol).
The rest cleans out nicely with panel wipe (smells much better than white spirit).
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Dec 19, 2022 18:50:58 GMT
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Cheers, my rear window is bonded rather than a rubber seal but I'm sure the effects are much the same. I used some stuff in the past which set like glue and that wasn't fun
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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