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teach
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Posts: 67 
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Nov 26, 2022 11:26:16 GMT
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i like the sound of it so far. Gonna be dropped slightly? Are there much options for the bluebird out there in regards to adjustable suspension?
Nada for mine, gotta get creative.
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Nov 26, 2022 12:36:17 GMT
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Aye it will be lowered not too much though. Only thing I have found so far is 40mm springs some cheap direnza things I think. Could possibly go for a u11 rear disc conversion and use s12 components. Haven’t really looked into it yet though will be expensive no doubt.
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Nov 26, 2022 13:37:01 GMT
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Nov 27, 2022 11:41:38 GMT
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My mate Amran’s sunny zx he might have a set of wheels if your looking think he has a black set of mini lites  |
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teach
Part of things
Posts: 67
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Nov 27, 2022 15:17:04 GMT
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My mate Amran’s sunny zx he might have a set of wheels if your looking think he has a black set of mini lites cheers, i'll bare that in mind. Not sure what wheels I'm after yet, what size are they do you know? My sunny came with some cool retro metal wheel covers that I'm quite fond of  thinking to just get some wider steels made up to stick them on. we'll see! |
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teach
Part of things
Posts: 67
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Nov 28, 2022 18:44:20 GMT
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planned to have a little go at some of the stuff you mentioned today, but it started pouring down  I was a little impatient so i did manage to give a quick squirt of easy start at least and tried starting it and it did come to life! ...for a few seconds, then died. So guessing its starved of fuel. Will drain the tank completely and top up with fresh fuel in case it is stale. I did also remove both hoses from the fuel filter and tried starting it up, I was expecting to see some fuel spurting out, but nothing. Am I incorrect in thinking that is what should happen, or is there an issue in fuel delivery there? The filter was full of fuel, poured out when I removed the bottom hose.   |
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Last Edit: Nov 28, 2022 18:45:14 GMT by teach
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Shadow1
Part of things
Posts: 222
Member is Online
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Nov 28, 2022 19:37:56 GMT
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I had the same issue with mine. I think it needs a carb rebuild tbh. But does run and drive. But carb runs dry. It will start again and do the same continuously. Bored of it now so may sell her on.
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Mk5 Cortina 1982
Nissan Sunny 1987
Audi A6 black edition ultra
VW Transporter Kombi
Suzuki B King
Kawasaki ZX10R
Honda max 125
Suzuki SB200 (1979)
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teach
Part of things
Posts: 67
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Nov 29, 2022 20:34:14 GMT
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I had the same issue with mine. I think it needs a carb rebuild tbh. But does run and drive. But carb runs dry. It will start again and do the same continuously. Bored of it now so may sell her on. exact problem? just stopped starting up? I connected it up to direct fuel feed (hose in jerry can) it still wouldn't start. Easy start or splash of fuel in the carb manages to get it alive but stalls after a couple seconds.    |
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Last Edit: Nov 29, 2022 21:42:21 GMT by teach
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They would be 13 inch wheels I would think. Is the fuel pump on the head? Could be the diaphragm inside gubbed. Dizzy doesn’t look too healthy either I’d get a new cap and rotor arm
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Last Edit: Dec 2, 2022 14:18:49 GMT by 88zxturbo
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If you message this guy and tell him what you have he will sell you loads of little hard to find wear and tear bits at a good price. I got all sorts at a very good price, water pump, Speedo cable, rotor arm, gasket set and loads of other little bits that will eventually fail. I’ve also got a fair bit of spares here aswell but not sure if any would work on your car. On 80s & 90s Nissans lots of parts are interchangeable but it’s a minefield because not many people have modified what we have. Mostly sr20(det) conversions which completely changes all of the parts you need. I opted for the ca20 with bike carbs so that most of the the ancillaries, pipes, bottles etc don’t need changing just electronic fuel pump and better cooling. www.jonniejumble.co.uk/classic_car_parts/vehicle/Nissan.shtml |
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teach
Part of things
Posts: 67
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nice one, thanks for the link
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teach
Part of things
Posts: 67
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SHES ALIVE! positive update, managed to find the problem and now she's running, and sounds pretty sweet tbh. Will get better once I give all the usual bits a service. I had to do a bit of trouble-shooting to find the cause, was pulling a lot of hoses, using direct fuel feeds etc. Eventually came to the conclusion the pump wasn't doing its job. Ordered a new pump, had to wait a few days. New pump arrived, went to remove the old one...and of course I ordered the wrong type There's a 2 pipe version and 3 pipe that has a fuel return on it, mine was the 3. Even though I doubled checked this (in the dark, somehow missed it) and to be fair the bloody haynes manual only shows 2 pipes and mentions nothing about a fuel return. ANYWAY... i decided to take the old pump off anyway, and it felt pretty seized up. So i sprayed whatever penetrants I could find and pumped away and eventually loosened it up to where it was working again. Rinsed it all out with fuel, and a loada limescaley curse word came out. So whacked the pump back on, hooked it up to direct fuel feed...success, drawed it in. Then tried it again with the fuel filter involved, success. Hooked it all back up as normal to see if it would pull from the tank, failed. So I narrowed it down to a blockage somewhere between the tank and fuel filter. So i got the compressor out and started testing. Hoses in the engine bay were clear. Pulled the rubber hoses off the pipes connecting to the tank, tested the long section of pipes running from tank to bay, clear. So at this point i could see that the pipe feed coming out of the tank was the culprit. Popped the boot open, opened up the access panel for the fuel transmitor and pulled that little unit out... Rusty as fook      So as expected the fuel feed was blocked. Squirted some parafin down the blocked pipe, let it sit for bit then blasted it out with the compressor, free at last! As it was a rustfest I got some wire brushed and wool, some thinner and got to cleaning...   Not bad. Connected it all back up and fired her up. All is good. A relief. May get the tank off one days and give that a thorough clear out too, needs it. For now, next step order some bits. Could prob do with a service so Will get new fuel filter, leads, oil and filter. some wiper blades etc. Until that turns up, she needs a good clean! Looking forward to that, will be a transformation. Will post up some photos too |
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teach
Part of things
Posts: 67
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Dec 20, 2022 17:47:29 GMT
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teach
Part of things
Posts: 67
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Dec 20, 2022 17:54:23 GMT
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teach
Part of things
Posts: 67
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Dec 20, 2022 18:01:18 GMT
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been having thoughts about how to get some lows and trying to find what coilovers I can use from other cars. Got told about mk1 golf coilies apparently fitting by just swapping the top mounts, but done a bit of research... mk1 golf bolts holes are 58mm apart, measured my stock ones today and they are about 65mm. so not sure how they were made to fit.  |
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teach
Part of things
Posts: 67
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Apr 12, 2023 13:53:00 GMT
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ok finally got around to posting some updates... as mentioned before I decided to give the tank a flush out because the amount of rusty curse word in there when i solved the fuel blockage. removed the tank  lots of rusty crud on the sides and sitting at the bottom...  flushed it out multiple times. soaked it couple days in vinegar and baking soda, loosen up a lot of the curse word. small hole so did my best to get in there and brush off the sides. Shoved the pressure washer in and gave that a good go too.  er this was after multiple flushes already...  not perfect, but alot better and best I could do  outside was looking worn, so gave that a paint too. Used some tough roofing waterproof paint, bit like tar. Did the job and should withstand stonechips bit better than normal paint.   painted  had a delivery of bits for basic servicing. Changed fuel filter once i'd flushed the tank. Changed the distributor cap and leads. Was going to change the rotar arm too but the one i received was different size, making it stick out more. I left this out as i assumed its not suitable... anyone able to confirm that?  rear brake shoes were seized up pretty much so changed both sets on the rear. Fronts seem ok.  other odd bits like wiper blades and bulbs. Still have to do oil and filter change when i get a chance. |
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teach
Part of things
Posts: 67
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Apr 12, 2023 14:41:20 GMT
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then onto the fun stuff. Suspension. As you see in the photos, it was on stilts. So time to get some lows in, which involved a bit of measuring and research as there are no off the shelf products for this vehicle. So had to look at what options there were for other cars that I could mod... Based on the hub thickness and bolt spacing i decided to get some VW Lupo coilovers that i planned to mod to fit the Sunny. The rears both had pencil style shocks, but rear springs were smaller diameter on the lupo, so planned to source some alternative springs or chop some leftover mx5 springs i had laying about which had similar diameter. Worry about that when I get to it... FRONTS remove tophats from the originals and slapped them onto the new coilovers. These style spring compressors are fantastic, never had such an easy job. The standard 2 claw style i used before were a nightmare. These are great and safe, hard to go wrong.   had to do some filing and slot the bottom hole so that it could bolt onto the hub.  new coilovers slightly wider fit on the hub than the originals. Fixed that with some heavy duty washers. Those washers came in handy, also had to use them for the topmounts. The thread and nut was bigger on the new coilover, and it was getting lost inside the tophat when tightening, so threw a stack of heavy duty washers to fill the space and let the nut sit higher to tighter properly, worked a treat.     fronts done.  onto the rears... new spring vs old  after having a look, decided i could make these springs fit if i grinded down the tip of the top coil. I only had the biggest disc available so wasn't the neatest job  swapped out the bumpstop for the new spring seat   new shocks were wider, so had to cut off the tube sticking out either side. Angle grinder was the star of the show for most the suspension work    new springs fit alot tighter that originals so couldn't use the original rubber hat on it anymore. so made so custom ones out of what was laying about to make sure there would be no clanging noises afterwards!  everything back in place. lower car slowly to ensure spring falls into place   not low enough. had this problem with my mx5. maxspeedingrods brand tend not to go low enough on the rears. odd. anyway, back to work.... after some more choppy chop trials, I took a couple coils off the new springs and found a height i was happy with. new modded spring vs new springs vs old spring  ground down the top coil to get it seating as flat as possible.  the top coils were a smaller diameter, so chopping them off brought me down to some larger diameter coils which seated in the spring holders better and also allowed me to use the original rubber mounts again for the top of the spring which was great.  back on the car. looking a lot better...  took for a test drive, could hear some knocking.... stuck my head in there to see the problem:  only about 20mm gap between the bottom and top spring seats. back to the grind....   problem solved. pretty chuffed with how its sitting. Will need to raise the fronts slightly to match the rears. But will wait for the springs to settle and they adjust to desired height.   |
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thinking to just get some wider steels made up to stick them on. we'll see!
