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Sept 21, 2022 16:45:39 GMT
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thinking of buying a k series metro. I like the gta ones, but in my mind id live apov spec one and put the bits i want onto it.
id like a solid colour one like white or red really, but the question is, the rover 100, i know the fronts different but are they any more rust resistant? What goes on metros? is there anything to avoid? the 100 metro id probably put the earlier front on it.
thanks
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Sept 21, 2022 18:10:09 GMT
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thinking of buying a k series metro. I like the gta ones, but in my mind id live apov spec one and put the bits i want onto it. id like a solid colour one like white or red really, but the question is, the rover 100, i know the fronts different but are they any more rust resistant? What goes on metros? is there anything to avoid? the 100 metro id probably put the earlier front on it. thanks The Rover 100 and the later Rover Metro's have the K-Series engine which has a long history of head gasket failure, i've done quite a few of these headgaskets in other cars and you can buy a better gasket and a stiffener that goes into the bottom of the engine to help this.
Very good engines apart from this, quite light and the 1.4 is quite powerful, I remember back when they were fairly new a friend of mine specialised in them and he said the 1.1 version they did wasn't any more economical than the 1.4 so the 1.4 is the one to go for.
You could also put a 1.6, 1.8 or 1.8VVC in one to make a real pocket rocket.
The earlier Austin ones of course have the A-Series which is fairly bullet proof although the gearbox in the MG and MG Turbo versions can be troublesome if driven hard.
All of the Metros and 100's have hydrogas suspension and so you need a special pump to pump this up after changing components, its the same pump as the hydrolastic minis, 1100's, 1300's and also the MGF (which I recall is based on the Rover 100 subframes and suspension).
Generally all of them are good cars but the dreaded tin worm can be an issue and I would suggest that bits are'nt going to be that easy to get secondhand as the survival rate probably wasn't great.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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metrosslater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Sept 21, 2022 19:22:29 GMT
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No they all rust the same. There are (relatively) alot of clean examples around tho. I think they were popular with old ladies that had them garaged all thier life and never really used them. They are so dirt cheap still theres not much point in buying one with any more than minor rust but you want to factor in a bit of time to clean up and rust proof at the very least.
Nothing much else to worry about in the grand scheme of things.
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Sept 21, 2022 19:40:47 GMT
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right ok that is what I'm hoping to find a one owner etc 1.1 and then make it a bit nicer. it dosnt have to be fast but its like the retro rides show at mallory last weekend, i could have gone in a metro, but DarrenW and myself went in his BMW and parked outside. Its just something reliable and small I'm after. I have a mini but its not going to be good for long distances.
I was worried a bit about the engines, but id more than likely rebuild one now while you can still get bits. itll be a long term keeper.
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Sept 26, 2022 12:33:53 GMT
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Plenty of dog eared povvo spec R100s about. They're going up in value though. I had a 1.1 Kensington (which meant it had the optional extra of, a fag lighter and a radio) and it was wicked. Headlinings can sag, seats can lose their sproing (although Rover 200/400 ones apparently fit) and the rear arches/sill ends and front jacking points go. If it's got a sunroof, they can sometimes go crusty but mine was minty fresh despite the grotty arches.
Head gasket issues are MUCH more pronounced on the later 1.6/1.8 engines as they were a later development and changed to plastic studs and cheaper gaskets. The thermostats on K series's are round the wrong way, on the inlet from the rad to the engine, so you need to warm them up gently but thoroughly before beansing it otherwise you get a slug of cold water run through the block and THAT is what damages them. Relocating the thermostat to an inline housing in the rad hose is common and works well. It is that issue that really hurt the K series in the MGF (hot engine bay, loooong coolant hoses) and the Freelander (always worked hard from cold by school run mums in a big heavy car). They're really not as bad as people say so long as you are considerate and keep the coolant fresh.
There's a fair bit of interchangeability in the front suspension and steering with MGF parts, so quick racks, better brakes and lower arms are a bolt on upgrade. Saggy suspension is relatively common, but the pumps aren't ridiculously expensive to buy and recon units aren't any more or less pricey than buying suspension for any other small, old car.
Service parts are easy to come by and pretty cheap. I think new pads for mine were 20 quid for Brembos!
A 1.4 twin cam from a ZR/400/whatever would make it fab on longer runs, the 1.1 has good power cruises on dual carrigeways right in its power band and it'll physically do 90, but you need to plan overtakes in advance. I happily did Oxfordshire down to Chichester in mine, and over to Brizzl.
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Sept 26, 2022 14:27:13 GMT
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Big thumbs up from me on Metros, to answer your question about rust.... No the 100's are no better, the points where they go are around subframe mounts on the rear, arches, front of the foot wells and the sills.
Got my latest one back in July / August and the first thing I had done to it was epoxy coat the underside.
As stated above, ragging from cold is the real killer for the K series, as long as they're allowed to get nice and warm first they're fine, I've had 4 K series cars over the years and 1 head gasket go which I take full responsibility for as I was ragging it from cold all the time.... Other's I let warm up first under 3k until then and not had an issue.
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Sept 26, 2022 19:52:27 GMT
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right thanks,t aht susefull info, ill keep looking for one now, they seem to be like 2k upwards though. I have a mini I'm doing up and ills ell that to fund the metro. i cant wait to be honest to get one
thanks
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Sept 29, 2022 19:31:01 GMT
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i collect this satruday, its a rover 111, not sure what a 111 is, but thats the car. it wasnt expencive, its just had some poor welding to it, but it has 12 months mot.
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Sept 29, 2022 20:14:18 GMT
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Rover 100 series, 1.1 litre therefore a 111
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Ich habe kein Geld!
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Sept 29, 2022 20:17:36 GMT
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thought so, cant wait to see how slow it is ! its single point injection, mems ecu, its not a bad one i think, but needs a little bit of sorting.
where is best to get bits for them? thanks
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gezzard
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 611
Club RR Member Number: 69
Member is Online
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metrosgezzard
@gezzard
Club Retro Rides Member 69
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Sept 29, 2022 21:46:47 GMT
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Last Edit: Sept 29, 2022 21:47:24 GMT by gezzard
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Sept 30, 2022 2:52:49 GMT
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I've had 2 MG Metros and a Rover 1.4 Gsi one. The Rover was a great pocket rocket and felt more refined.
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Congrats and welcome to the club! Looks like a nice car.
Parts wise as above Rimmer bros but also the metro Facebook groups are a pretty handy bunch, and for uprated new parts check out compeng24 on ebay (run by Ralph a metro guy) does stuff like drop links and anti roll bar kits, windscreen rubbers etc.
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thanks, whats the score with radiators? they are not available or like £350 on ebay
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A new MGF one isn't a third of that price, and is easy to fit. Cools slightly better too, but that isn't necessary even with a VVC engine.
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ok, is it any mgf or a certain model?
mine is working but it looks a bit cruddy lower down, id like a new one really. thanks
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