1948 Triumph Roadster Supercharged plus other stuff…

Thanks again Nick.
An overdrive would be ideal. I have no idea how that would work though.
More research needed.
When I get a chance I’ll see if there’s a transmission number stamped on the box (as per you link) and do some investigating.


Painted all the front suspension pieces.






Lovely paint to use. Brush on a coat of the first stuff and a few hours later spray a coat of the second.
The first is DTM but not UV stable, the second is UV ok, but needs a primer.
And it turns out like a really thin powdercoat in appearance. Also tough as nails.

Plated the bolts that hold the front spring on.





So tomorrow I’ll be able to assemble the front end.
I still need to plate some nuts, but that can happen as I put the spring on. This is starting to feel like progress!

Thanks.

Still poking along with the front end.
Plated lots of fiddly little bits and prepared others for paint.
The diff has been pressure cleaned and grunge scraped.
Here it’s waiting for paint stripper.





Didn’t get as far along with the front hubs as I’d hoped.
The cast iron brake cylinders, which I'd had sleeved in stainless when I did the brake job previously, were looking pretty ordinary and would return to the same condition fairly quickly if I just bead blasted them again.
So I plated them. Just so the little bit that’s sticks out of the backing plate would stay looking good.
Things like that add to the time.
How that area looks atm.





And how it used to look. I do love this hobby!





Thanks.

Thanks Glen, it’s not hard to maintain them here. Not that I drive them a lot, but more that they don’t see moisture.


Finishing the front end is a goal that eludes me.

Don’t have spring washers to fit 3/8 BSF, so can’t finish the backing plates, so can’t assemble the brakes.

Cleaned up the pistons that I'd pulled from the brake cylinders ( to plate them - the cylinders ) and noticed they were a bit rusty.
Now the brake job on this car, when I put the Jag mc on it, wasn’t a million years ago.
So I made an executive decision and plated them, the pistons, as well.
And this car will get silicone fluid.

And noticed that one of the front shocks was leaking.
Girling lever shocks, similar to the XK, so I don’t have to learn something new.
Well I hoped it would come back to me, it was 2 plus years ago that I had those ones apart…
Removed the top cover and it looked familiar. That’s a plus.






Welded a bit of threaded rod to the expansion plug on the side. I hoped that would shrink it enough for it just to come out, but it required the slide hammer. Thus the threaded rod.





Then pressed out the shaft so I can replace the seal.





The seal is obvs past its sell by date.
But my seal supplier doesn’t have suitable seal in stock, so that has to be put to one side. I ordered enough seals to do both shocks, the other will be ready to do, I’m sure.

Another thing that needed doing was this.
The diff housing had this rub mark, from the travel limiter.
Maybe 'rub mark' isn’t a strong enough term.





It’s this deep.





I took two things from this.
Not worried about sanding some rust pits from other spots on the axle.
Be careful with the first bit of weld that I put in there.

Sanded the rust off.






All sorted.





Thanks.

A little progress on the tank mounts.
I bought some rubber and shaped the straps accordingly.
Boy I wish I’d have done this before painting the chassis/ tank. Just have to be careful all the time.
Got one side to the point where I was happy with the fit.






Then copied it for the second.





Made a pair of special headed bolts to fix them to the crossmember.
Found a piece of 1/2 x eighth flat and drilled a suitable hole for a 5/16 BSF bolt, cut the head off and welded it in.









Times two.





The flat gives more clearance for the tank

No photos but I got the seals for the shocks, so I put that one back together, and blasted all four ready for paint.
And the diff and a few other bits.

Thanks.

Finally got the front hubs/brakes assembled.





That let me get it to another milestone of sorts.







The rear springs are on as well.

I need to make a bump stop for the rear.
There’s one above and one below the axle on each side. Three are ok but one is missing the rubber completely. Luckily the metallic part is still there. That’s it on the left.






So the plan is to cast a new rubber bit onto the steel piece in a mould.

First the mould.
Plaster of Paris and a tin is my starting point.





Once the tin is cut away I am left with this.






After it’s trimmed and the bump stop removed, half the mould is done.





It and the bump stop are put together in another tin and more plaster added.





Again the tin is cut away and the two halves separated so the original bump stop can be removed.





They are then clamped together and the void filled with the goop of choice. Then I pushed the steel piece into place.





I used a Wurth product and it’ll just be a matter of wait and see how it turns out and whether it is tough enough.
I’ll leave it a couple of days to set up.
If it works I’ve got four to make for the front end, but they’re much simpler.
This is a bit of an experiment, so any suggestions welcome.

Thanks.

Thanks dadstaxi, we shall see in a few days.

The diff is back in. It was a bit of a struggle to get the springs pulled up enough to get the nuts on the u bolts, but ratchet straps are great things.
Funny, but I don’t recall the chassis jumping up when I undid the u bolts… I suppose it did have the weight of the engine/trans on it.





Two of the u bolt nuts were stripped, well they were part stripped and I finished the job.
Looked in my stash of nuts and of course, found one replacement, not the two I need.

Strange thing, this I thought was a breather.





It leaked oil when the diff was upside down. So I taped it up during blasting, with the idea that I’d plate it afterwards.
But when I took off the nut, the stud wouldn’t come out. I noticed that it twists back and forward and it sounds like a small arm or somesuch is hitting the inside of the housing. It also felt like it could fall into the housing.
What would that be? Is the hole in the top any clue?
Ideally it would be the two speed actuator and it’s been in low range all along…

Anyway, it’s now on its own wheels.





The brake cylinders are on the backing plates but nothing else.
There’s a lot of bits to be plated etc for the handbrake mechanism, so all that is yet to come.

Thanks.

are you sure it's not a breather with a drilling through the shank of the bolt and out of the head inside the diff?

try blowing through it.

They used to do things like this, morris minor door swiitches are a drilled bolt.

Big day today, lots of painting and plating.

Before pic of the handbrake mechanism, well the bits of it that were to be plated.






And after.





Again, they are more in focus in reality.
There were also the throttle mechanism and the steering bits.

On the paint side, all the bits from those three lots plus a few others, mainly three shocks and links.
I think 29 pieces in all. Here they’ve had the final coat.






Even though I had most of this stuff almost prepped, there was still a full day in getting it shinyish.

Thanks.

Have you considered buying some polyurethane that's meant for casting such things?

Here's an Omega diff mount repair:



The plaster moulds are worth remembering