Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Mar 13, 2024 22:56:53 GMT
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The whole “EP additives/GL5 will eat my gearbox” issue has been done to death on various Land-Rover forums over the years. Broadly, it seems that the problem was only really an issue with the first generation of those products, and only from certain brands. Information is hazy, but the broad consensus from industry sources suggests that the problem simply doesn’t exist, and hasn’t for years. Armchair/internet experts will assure you that it will actually cause your vehicle to melt in front of your eyes. Nuns and goldfish will perish. Plagues of locusts. Armageddon. Personally, I had access to a free supply of extremely high quality Shell GL5 80W90 for a while, and used it for the best part of a decade in my Land-Rover without any issues whatsoever. Now that I have finally run through the last of it, and have to actually pay for some with my own money, I buy GL4 from Rye Oils, because I’m a cheapskate, not because I think I really need to. 🤣 thats interesting/good to know, mainly going off what i read on forums.. which as you say may not be the best source of info, though any reliable information on them is kind of hard to find, what with the state of the internet as it is i guess that manufactures of speciality oils used it to their advantage, with the 'yellow metal safe' tagging etc, thinking of it logically, i would guess that gear oil manufacturers would try to avoid making a product that can damage customers vehicles, as that could get very expensive.. even if its just negative pr. Original spec for the gearbox in my truck (a T495, formerly called a T35) lists either SAE50w engien oil, or straight 90 gear oil... (oil weights still confuse me as to my mind those shouldnt be remotely similar in viscosity....) I have heard anecdotal evidense that EP oil can make some international gearboxes hard to shift.. again this may be hearsay, though i have experienced that happen myself on a vauxhall, when as a inexperianced mechanic, i put 80/90 in my novas gearbox.. and could no longer get first gear.. those gearboxes are supposed to run something like 75w oil from memory, usualy they got ATF in them rightly or wrongly.
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Last Edit: Mar 13, 2024 23:01:54 GMT by Ratchet
Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Mar 14, 2024 20:09:13 GMT
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Adding to my previous post.. been doing more reserch and apparently the international T495 (and its relations the T494 & 496) transmissions apparently should be run on 10-40 engine oil, with a zinc additive, something to do with the design of the first/reverse gear, and tolerances meaning they get oil starvation issues if run with gear oil.. despite the owners handbook listing sae 90,
now the info i found seems to come from a fairly reputable source, but man.. why does there seem to be so much obsfucation and misinfo regarding vehicle lubricants. and thats before you get to the 'my mate down the pub said' type info disseminating via social media and forums....
Will see what comes out of the transmission i guess but i do i have a lot of high quality 10-40 engine oil to hand, plus zinc additives so if it is the case no big issues.
At least the engine oil is easy, for the uks climate it needs 10-30w with a zinc additive the zinc additive is something that is advisable for flat tappet engines.. as many older american v8s are, used to be in engine oil, but was mostly removed as it kills catalitic convertors.
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Last Edit: Mar 14, 2024 20:41:40 GMT by Ratchet
Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Mar 17, 2024 11:56:18 GMT
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Changed the fluids yesterday, well the gearbox and engien oil anyway Wasnt much oil in the gearbox worryingly.. but it was pretty clean, and does add creedance to the theory that the random but clearly never piped in hydrualic pump on the pto, was fitted by whoever messed with the chassis.. and they aborted the project half way through (the front winch also has no coupling to the prop.. presumably it wss run off the gearbox pto originally... made a huge faux pas... as i was adding the molybendium additive the straw fell into the gearbox.. thankfully i hadnt added the oil, and was able to retrive it through the side plate.. was so enraged at my own stupidity that i took 0 photos of me doing this, did find some metal on the gearbox magnet, but i don't think it was anything to worry about right now. after that fracas drained the engine oil, and changed the ancient motorcraft filter which had taken on a torque beyond belief. I'm glad to report that the scourge of the cam bearing which can be a bit of an issue on these engines seems to have passed mine by, no metal in the sump, and the oil which is presumably been in there since the 90s was surprisingly clean. Weirdly though.. the correct filter i bought for it.. does not fit, luckily i had the "wrong" type too, so i fitted that for now Light line SV engines had a 3/4" thread, mid and heavy line ones should have an 1" for some reason mine has the former.. ihave three theories on it, one with i will check again today. first, international fitted the wrong type at the factory.. by mistake or on purpose, second, the owner changed the stud/spigot as the 3/4" thread filter is the same as most ford v8s so cheaper and far easier to get. and finally.. the winch driveshaft gets in the way of the larger filter, so it was changed for that reason, I didnt think of chacking that until i had packed up i need to swap it anyway, as the one i fitted is puny compaired to the one i removed, and loadstars have a far larger sump than scouts, and after a bit of digging i found what i think is the correct hreaded insert, so will swap it out when that arrives. Oh and and i have moved it under own power now, will upload film of that as soon as i get a chance!
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Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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Mar 21, 2024 16:21:35 GMT
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Oh wow, this truck is super super cool!
I'll be following along it's resurrection with interest!
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Mar 21, 2024 22:31:28 GMT
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This took a bit longer to post than i hoped.. had to blur out some details, and video editing is currently not my forte. full video is a lot longer, but you get the idea Also found some more parts, including the correct PTO to drive the front winch (it had been swapped for one with a hydrualic pump for who knows what reason, as it wasnt even connected to anything, will use the transfer box PTO for a hydraulic pump if i need one) and a set of seals for the Rockwell transfer box, so those are on their way to the uk. Hopefully get the brake booster parts back soon, so can get at least partialy working brakes, and want to get the axle back in its proper home soon so can get the rear prop made up and make up new brake lines
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Last Edit: Mar 21, 2024 22:34:21 GMT by Ratchet
Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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Davey
Posted a lot
Resident Tyre Nerd.
Posts: 2,294
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Mar 22, 2024 10:13:39 GMT
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Very good!
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K11 Micra x3 - Mk3 astra - Seat Marbella - Mk6 Escort estate - B5 Passat - Alfa 156 estate - E36 compact Mk2 MR2 T-bar - E46 328i - Skoda Superb - Fiat seicento - 6n2 Polo - 6n polo 1.6 - Mk1 GS300 EU8 civic type S - MG ZT cdti - R56 MINI Cooper S - Audi A3 8p - Jaguar XF (X250) - FN2 Civic Type R - Mk2 2.0i Ford Focus
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Mar 22, 2024 17:57:46 GMT
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Brilliant work there, A very interesting thread to follow, Thanks, Nigel
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BMW E39 525i Sport BMW E46 320d Sport Touring (now sold on.) BMW E30 325 Touring (now sold on.) BMW E30 320 Cabriolet (Project car - currently for sale.)
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,209
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Mar 22, 2024 22:53:40 GMT
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Excellent to see and hear it moving. Really highlights the goofiness of the chassis extension too, what a weird decision the previous owner made.
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Mar 23, 2024 23:50:36 GMT
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Excellent to see and hear it moving. Really highlights the goofiness of the chassis extension too, what a weird decision the previous owner made. yeah no idea what they were thinking, (to be fair the original body is just sat on the chassis right now, i assume they were going to fit a roll on bed/ tipper or something) Its such a janky job though.. as well as hacking the frame reinforcments they have fitted a random selection of cross members, some are the original.. with poorly thought out and executed reinforments, plus randomly shuffled round the chassis from their original homes, some are from the donor truck that the rear part of the frame came from ( a internationl S1800 or similar i belive) with one mounted upside down(?) and one is the most agriculturaly fabricated mess, made from what appears to be 1/2" thick box section and plate .. and all it did was hold a center bearing (for the idiotic 3 section prop they had made).. then they didnt bother to bolt the rear springs to the chassis. Plus there is stuff like fitting a proper gearbox pto for a hydraulic pump, going as far as wiring in the dash indicator... but nothing on the truck had any need for a hydraulic pump, and it was never piped in.. just weird decisions all round. at least i have all the original crosmembers bar the rear one so at least i don't have to get replacements though i think I'm missing some blackets for the front of the rear springs, annoyingly I'm struggling to find photos or info of what should be there. Cant wait until i get the truck to the indoor storage i have so i can rectify the issues and get rid of all of the awful fabrication 'work' didnt get much done today as was trying to get the farms cursed vauxhall movano to run (this thing just does not want to get its MOT...) but i did free off the high low selector on the transfer box, and machined a few bits for the brakes so a little progress at least.
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Last Edit: Mar 25, 2024 19:58:12 GMT by Ratchet
Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Mar 25, 2024 23:23:31 GMT
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Got some actual progress done on sunday. albeit a small amount, as finally managed to get the farms Vauxhall movano to start.. damn modern.ish diesels (its 22 years old!) still don't know why it refused to run, after checking every sensor, wiring, fuel etc at least 3 times and finding nothing amiss it suddenly decides to start and runs as if nothing happened anyway, Repaired the exhaust downpipes and refitted them for now, without the silencer as its rusted out, and the exhaust is bent/badly repaired so it wont fit without hitting the prop, found its somehow its even louder than it was with just open manifolds.. ah well it sounds nice when its running anyway, Then messed about with the iginition timing, and got it close, and it runs a little better, however the carb is not happy, so definitly needs to come off and get rebuilt once its inside in the new unit (if i ever find someone to transport it....) or maybe i'll just thow on the NOS one i have.... took off a few more parts to clean up and refurb namely this .. filter thing for the brake booster intake And a bolt i machined the head down on to better match the original, as couldnt find any 1/4" x 2 1/2" stainless bolts wth a small slotted head on them like i wanted, yes its only a tiny thing that no one else would probably notice but i want stuff to look right. And as per a previous post, some photos of the absurdity that is the chassis crossmembers on the loadstar for anyone thats interested... (the closeup of the awful welding is on that home made addition over the top of the only original one that hasnt been moved from its original position...) as you can see the originals ones have holes cut in them, very roughly. I'm 99% sure that butchery was done by the original owner kind of moot at this point however as all needs repaired/re-made regardless the above chungus is made out of 5/8 thick plate and half inch thick box section and did nothing but hold one of the center bearings... will probably repurpose it into a anvil or something The crossmember in that last photo is with the yellow ratchet strap on it is.... not actually attached to anything ?!? Also found one of the original brackets for the front rear spring hangers.. on the majority of these 4x4 trucks the front hangers are fitted in odd way, as the bottom two mounting holes on the hangers actually sit below the chassis rail and there is a small angle section that rivets to the bottom two bolts and then to the chassis, though some 4x4s had a lower ride height and had them mounted further depending on what was ordered (could write an entire book just on the various iterations of these trucks) Sadly just have one as the other one is missing but can use it as a pattern at least, and its just a bent piece of 5/16" plate with 5 holes in it so I'm sure i can get some made easily, hopefully anyway and i imagine will be far easier than finding somone to make the other chassis parts....
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Last Edit: Mar 26, 2024 21:12:09 GMT by Ratchet
Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Mar 31, 2024 14:58:55 GMT
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this weekends achivements... remove the warped and damaged fiberboard headliner.. which disintigrated in the process, will need to re-assemble it to make a pattern. found some rust as a mouse had made its home in the roof rails.. so edge of the roof needs a bit of work on left hand side, not holed but really thin, and a piece above the windscreen on the rhs, both not terrible but annoying.. stupid mice. Also did some work on the drivers door, took the handle and lock mech out, pushed the majority of the dent out and got the handle and lock working again, will need to properly panel beat it but it looks 100 percent better already. while i have the interior door panel off i assesed the extent of corrosion on the bottom not terrible tbh, and its all flat metal so fairly easy to repair, after that bypassed the brake booster (that is still away for repair) with a dubious pipe and attempted to bleed brakes, .. found the line from the brake master cylinder is leaking, and its 5/16th pipe, which i don't have right now, so thats off until next week then i guess, might have the booster back by then so i needent have bothered with the bypass pipe... while i was at the above i removed the brackets for the booster as they were bent and rusty so can attend both of those things.. Weirdly they were bolted on with 5/16" bolts. despite the holes in the brackets and the chassis being sized for 3/8" ones.. clearly been that way since new too. will refit it with 3/8" bolts though
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Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Apr 10, 2024 22:03:51 GMT
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So new brake line made and bent... 5/16" brake pipe is far harder to bend nicely than 3/16, took me three attempts as i messed up the bends, and trying ot unbend them dents the pipe easily got it bent up nicely in the end and fitted, minus some of the p-clips for now as they had disintigrated, so some brass ones on order. Filled the brake reservoir again and found... the brakes wont bleed, front hoses are completly blocked, not really surprised looking at the state of them, luckily the hose from the master cylinder to brake pipe, and brake pipe to booster hoses are 'ok' though will need to get replacments made at some point. luckily i ordered replacments earlier in the year when i got some other parts from the states, so on they went.. without much drama really, pipes all undid ok (will be replaced in due course) and the brakes actually bled.. not got very good brakes however, and they the pedal sinks but i was expecting as much, once the rebuilt booster arrives i will look further into them. so that was it for the weekend, other than moving the truck probably the longest distance its moved under its own power in years.. onto the And on tuesday, finally got the loadstar moved to the unit I'm renting and out of the weather.. wasnt without its dramas as of course it rained.. heavily but got it there ok, and took advantage of the nice concrete floor (in comparison to mud and grass...) to pull off the parking brake drum, Now i kneww the transfer box was leaking into it, and have a set of seals en-route for that issue. but the brake shoes arent looking too hot.. and worse, the drum is badly pitted where water has sat in it for a very long time. going to skim it on the lathe, but i think its too deep for me to be able completly remove the pitting so on the lookout for a replacment, and of course it seems its obsolete.. or at least not readily available. so if anyone knows of a Meritor parts dealer (its a Rockwell built transfer box).. or knows of anything that uses a 10" x 3 " diameter drum that could be adapted that would be most welcome. Now its in the dry though, and somewhere with a hard floor i can start work on undoing all the bodges on the chassis, and doing bodywork (though my welding equipment is still at the other workshop for now) before that i think i'll be removing the transfer box so i can reseal it, repair/re-bush the worn handbrake linkages, get rid of the stupid added on reinforcement on the cross member and get new mounting bushes made, and of course paint it
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Last Edit: Apr 11, 2024 20:34:15 GMT by Ratchet
Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,190
Club RR Member Number: 64
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I wouldn’t be concerned about that handbrake drum at all. Obviously, it wants a damn good clean, but I’d not worry with skimming it even. It is for applying when the vehicle is already stationary, the only time you’ll ever consider using it on the move is in circumstances where a bit of vibration is the last of your worries. You should be able to get the friction material replaced easily enough, and that’s all I’d bother with.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Apr 11, 2024 20:41:24 GMT
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I wouldn’t be concerned about that handbrake drum at all. Obviously, it wants a damn good clean, but I’d not worry with skimming it even. It is for applying when the vehicle is already stationary, the only time you’ll ever consider using it on the move is in circumstances where a bit of vibration is the last of your worries. You should be able to get the friction material replaced easily enough, and that’s all I’d bother with. thats probably fair, onlyconcerna i had was for MOT, wasnt sure if they test the operation of transmission/driveline brakes other than them holding, have only ever dealt with HGVs that used 'normal' spring type handbrakes will get the shoes off and send them to be relined, they don't actually look that worn, but oil etc soaking into them wont have done any good at all. forgot to post a pic of it in the new unit, Also a very wet Patch (farm dog where my mates workshop is on, and where my truck was being stored) she refused to go inside as was more interested in watching us load the truck onto the transporter.
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Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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Apr 11, 2024 20:46:38 GMT
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What he said^^^, only he was much more succinct. I would have just flicked a fag end away, muttered "She'll be reet", mopped the worst off, and shoved it back on.
I would just get the shoes re lined and not worry.
Edit to say, it's a long time since I have taken a wagon for mot, but when brake testing trailers they apply the park brake then start the rollers, apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs etc....
As long as it works, I can't see it being a problem.
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Last Edit: Apr 11, 2024 21:08:57 GMT by generallee
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Apr 22, 2024 20:39:50 GMT
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ok been slacking on the updates, but have got some things done in the last two weeks, firstly a bunch of parts turned up from the usa, including, the correct oil filter adaptor, the right pto for the winch, a seal kit for the transfer box and the front grill and side panels. i also went and removed the carb as despite the truck running it was not happy and wouldnt idle too well, and hesitated and coughed when applyign throttle.. so obviously needed looked at took it home and gave it a quick buzz in the ultrasonic bath to get rid of the remains of dirt dauber nests on the outside.. then pulled the lid off.. and.. how it ran as well as it did amazes me, thing was absolutyy packed full of dirt and mud *the fancam style lens flare isnt delibrate.. my phone camera lens is broken
Anyway stripped it all down and gave it all a good clean in the ultrasonic bath, I had a new old stock carb kit kicking around so installed that.. well most of it, turns out there are various versions of the 2210 holley carb, and the ones fitted to IH engines have a different base plate gasket, which many kits don't supply.. luckily there is a big thread on a international forum going into it, and i found the right kit, so duly ordered that, for now i stuck it back together with the original one.. as it was usable for now, also had to order the brass inlet adaptor, as it has been overtightend at soem point and split, though it did seal ok.
Reassembled with some of the rusty fasteners cleaned up and zinc plated, didnt take apart the throttle butterflies as there was negligable seem to be any play in the shafts, so i didnt want to mess with them.
also found some perished vacuum hose blanks.. and this thing: which i cant find much info on, but from old forum posts apears to be to be part of the emisions equipment, thoug hall it did was push the throttle lever so I'm not sure thats correct it leaks though and appears like somone had plumbed it directly into the carb, from what i can work out there is supposed to be a valve on the bulkhead controling it, not been back to the truck to look and see if i can spot where it used to go though so removed it for now, though if i can find a similar part i have a half baked idea for re-implimenting it as a hand throttle for the PTO.. if that wasnt its original purpose. not decided wheter to fit it now, or wait until the new gaskets come, have also got a mod to do to remove the hot idle compensator, which is another early emisions device, a bi-metallic strip that opens a port to give more air, which doesnt seem terribly effective nor a particularly great idea, if it even works anymore, going to machine a small aluminum block to blank it off. may well change this carb in future, as seems they arent the best carburettors that holley made, most people fit Holley 2300s, so half looking out for a good one of those.. if i don't decide to go the whole hog and pick up a 4 barrel manifold for the engine...
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Last Edit: Apr 22, 2024 20:58:28 GMT by Ratchet
Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Apr 22, 2024 20:56:37 GMT
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so this last weekend was finishing off repairs on somone elses vehicle, and between that did a little bit of fabrication on the replacment grill panels: the top corners of the corner panels crack, seems to be a common issue, there is a double section, but its mostly a slot, and on this one was missing altogether, i made up a small section that extends the double skinned section, and plug welded it on to make it a little stronger, still need to do the same to the other side one, forgot to take before pics, but similar issue on the end of the lower bar, there are cage type nuts that go in here, one end has previoust been repaired, and has broken again, and the end section is missing altogether, thankfully despite the one on my own truck having been hacked out this section is intact, it looked rusted beyond use, but after a dunk in some deox-c i found it was.. almost rust free, well in the part i need anyway. I ran out of time to finish it though so next weeks job, need to track down some 5/16" cage nuts in the meantime, as those were beyone reuse, despite undoing fairly easily. Have also been making a bunch of new P-clips for the truck to replace the ones that are missing, or rusted away, now while i could just buy the normal rubber lined ones.. thats not really my style, wanted to make some that match the originals, which are flat steel wit ha plastic coating, and to that end i got some brass ones, re-drilled them to 1/4" and rebent them in a couple of cases, then zinc plated them, and dipped them in plastidip, heres the stages next to one of the originals, the plastidip isnt totaly uniform.. but the original ones arent either, will find out in due time how well the plastidip coating holds up.
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Last Edit: Apr 25, 2024 19:46:51 GMT by Ratchet
Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Apr 26, 2024 20:53:10 GMT
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Made the blank off block for the hot idle compensator in the carb out of a piece of aluminum, with a small gasket made to fit in the area there was previously an o-ring. Fits really snugly in there, and the cover plate holds it in position so should have no issues with vacuum leaks I did some investigation into why they were fitted, seemingly it was it was something to do with trying to prevent stalling at idle when vehicle was really hot, usuathough not all these carbs had them and most that did seem to be 'smog' carbs and/or AC so how nessasary it is anyones guess. Seems they they often stopped closing properly and cause issues that way, and if i find it does start cuttign out on idle can always re-instate it. Will get the carb back on at the weekend and see if i've improved the running even without changing that one gasket. (the correct carb kit is en-route) Oh and got a call on thursday from the engineering shop saying my brake booster was finished being re-sleeved, so should see that monday, and can then get it reassembled and then check how well the brakes work when thats refitted, hopefully at least slightly better than currently.
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Last Edit: Apr 26, 2024 20:56:28 GMT by Ratchet
Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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Been off work all week with some nasty virus, and mostly been sleeping. not fun at all. Did manage to get a little done to the truck on sunday before it got really bad, got the carb on, and started it, and it runs so much better, not perfectly but i think i can get the timing right now so may improve it further, was one pat i didnt remove to clean on the carb as its staked in, so could also be that, gaskets arrived so when i take it off again to do the base gasket will look into that. annoyingly the inlet fittign i ordered is wrong, but the cracked one thats on now doesnt leak so it can wait, found the correct parts on mikes carburettors .. and turns out gaskets etc are far cheaper from them.. oh well, i know for the future. anyway it looks nice, though does make the rest of the engine look really scruffy... After that dropped the gear oil again, and pulled the PTO off, only to find the one i bought to replace it doesnt fit, or it does but not with the output facing forward as its too close to the gearbox, but did find out i can convert the once i have to shaft output easily enough, so tracking down the parts to do that, stuck it back on for now, annoying waste of an afternoon that was. I could of course convert the pto winch to hydrualic and use the pump that i have, but that will require more work and research. and I'm not keen on the pump hanging off the gearbox where it is, as it sits really low, and isnt exactly light, if i do go for a hyd setup will probably run it off the transfer boxes pto instead and can mount the pump anywhere then. Brake booster turned up on monday, looks good though ive not been in the mindset or physical condition to really do much about it, need to paint it and reassemble the booster, want to paint the cylinder itself in cast iron effect paint, anyone know if the Rustolium stuff looks half decent?
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Last Edit: May 4, 2024 16:26:24 GMT by Ratchet: my spelling and typing is truely awful at times xD
Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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Ratchet
Part of things
The user formerly known as Thomas
Posts: 699
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May 11, 2024 22:02:15 GMT
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Got this put back together today, and looks pretty good if i do say so myself, hopefully it all works ok, might get it fitted tomorrow (yes most of the parts will need removed again for the chassis work, but i don't even have a timeframe for that yet) painted in chassis black, with the brake cylinder itself sprayed over with cast iron effect paint, to try and replicate the original without it going rusty the second it sees water... doesnt look too bad really. note the factory mistake on the vacuum chamber....
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Competition is the law of the jungle, but cooperation is the law of civilization.
1971 vw beetle 1200 1978 international loadstar 1700 4x4 1987 landrover 110 1994 Yamaha FZR600r 2010 honda CBF100GT
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