jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,777
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It won't sound as good as new, but it'll sure as hell sound better than torn! While applauding your ingenuity đ and agreeing that it will sound better than torn, it will never sound the same as an undamaged driver, so you end up with a stereo pair that aren't matched, that wouldn't work for me âšī¸ I would either find a second hand same model replacement or I'd source 2 equivalent midrange drivers and change them both đ
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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misteralz
Posted a lot
I may drive a Volkswagen, but I'm scene tax exempt!
Posts: 2,297
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Ahhhh now, when I did it BOTH speakers were torn...
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,777
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Ahhhh now, when I did it BOTH speakers were torn... Can't argue with that đđ¤Ŗ
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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Well , during all this speaker digression , i have not been idle ...oh no.. next on the list was to tackle this window a bit more . it started off looking like this ^^^^^ , basically , a georgian sash window ,where the wooden side boxes with the weights in and the whole surround ,had been removed , and a pvc double glazed window put in . then someone smashed the inner pane on the lower half , so its a single sheet of glass 1350 x 1200 in size . Plan is to tidy the area around the window , by paying a specialist lime plasterer to plaster all the edges and walls , then have a carpenter come and make a new frame . then a double glazing specialist will come and replace both panes since the top one is leaking and condensey...... AH HAHAHAHA !....... NOT. Actual plan is to use scraps of wood ,cover what i can .and get a new sheet of glass to repair the bottom pane , or get a new double pane made ,and swap it in . the plaster on the wall beside the window is using the air gap design , and is not even remotely adhering to the wall . so as you know i made a 6" x 2" frame in the recess screwed to the bricks and the lintel .. went a bit mental with the foam in the gaps .. then had a happy time scraping and cutting off the excess.. i then hunted the grounds for wood that would work .i found a nice plank , and cut it to size with the hand held disc saw.. i only had enough for bottom and left hand side , you can see i am also experimenting with architrave , since i found a load from the hs in the playbarn . so i thought , ok i'll just pop and buy some more , except i now found out it was a 27mm thick 168mm wide plank i could not match .BUM . more hunting , and found a close enough width plank , but too thin ...so i found ply to pack it with ,and thought i'll use that tomorrow for the other side and the top . Net day , just about to cut it and thought hmm , this has a rounded top and is painted pale yellow , i wonder where its from , should i use it for this , then realised where the blimmen thing was from ... yup , its the missing 12ft skirting board from the hall. pox. but ..yay . so more hunting , and found a wall shelf in the falling down shed ,right thickness , too wide , that'll do. dragged it in , scraped it off, and cut it's side off .. then a couple of 45 ish cuts with the disc saw , and i have another side done.. now for the top , again stuck for 27mm thick wood i found a selection of shelves in the butchers chapel , and lopped one of those up .. its about 4mm too thick , but i am hoping i can hide that with adjustement and filler and paint . it all turned out ok ish , all done with the hand held disc saw so i was not expecting too great a fit .. next was cutting up the scraps left, to box in the inner edge of foamy plasticness.. the tim burton picture quality is predominently down to the room being filled with wood smoke and dust due to my blade on the saw being fairly blunt , so burning its way though fifty percent of the time . this was the house temperature yesterday afternoon , so today i am going to be finish screwing the surround , then breaking out in a rash of curtains poles in the house,so i can curtain off the windows and stairs and try to keep more heat in . regards robert
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Having worked for a DG company, you've already done more than most fitters. The written procedure was to fill the sash boxes with softwood screwed to the walls, and attach the windows to them using stamped lugs. What actually happened was a few blocks to attach the lugs, and the resulting voids filled with foam - I used to buy a pallet of foam cans every couple of weeks. The the whole aperture would be lined with hardwood, with shaped architrave around the edges - again, we'd buy a thousand metres of 90mm architrave at a time.
As for the glass, by the time you've had a single pane cut to size and done a tidy job of packing it out to fit, the small cost difference of a correctly sized sealed unit becomes excellent value for money.
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Thanks nick good info , window wise it looks like about 45 quid for a pane , or 110 to 130 for a unit .
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Thanks nick good info , window wise it looks like about 45 quid for a pane , or 110 to 130 for a unit . Do the whole unit. Knowing you, it'll bug you knowing if one of the units wasn't quite right, and having to re-do it all down the line.
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Double glazed units are filled with Nitrogen I believe for better thermal insulation.
Replace both of them - it will pay for itself fairly quickly in lower energy bills.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,072
Club RR Member Number: 64
Member is Online
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Fun On The Farm.glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Thanks nick good info , window wise it looks like about 45 quid for a pane , or 110 to 130 for a unit . That seems a bit steep. Might be worth shopping around or trying to find a local independent supplier. Another vote for getting two new sealed units. If you try just replacing the broken inner pane it's almost certain that you'll have condensation problems in short order and you might as well not have bothered. I have similar Victorian sash boxes that have got modern-ish sealed unit windows fitted. Every single one I have investigated so far has been simply screwed to the outer part of the original sash box with some really floimsy brackets and then the gaps covered by huge plastic strips fixed on with mastic. I have done similar to yourself with making a substantial new inner frame, properly fixed to both the wall and the window.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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good points , i did shop around a bit locally , all around the 120 to 130 range . for one unit . in other news, i have the framing finished ... and it passed site inspection .. also started filling the one visible hole underneath . then onto the curtains , fitted poles in the kitchen and the new frame in the big room , and found some curtains to hand up .. red ones are a bit long but hey , keeps the heat in . then curtained off the stairs and hung some on the doors .. this morning it seems to have made quite a difference . before curtains inside n outside at 5 am... so -0.2 and 11.3c a temp difference of 11.1c . today at same time .. -5.2 c and 10.1 c , so a difference of 15.3c . not sure if that makes perfect sense , maybe different wind rain etc , but it deff feels warmer my side of the curtains if you put your hand behind . both those sets of readings with no heating from 8pm the night before . was a crisp morning today . lowest temp recorded was ... regards robert
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Progress is a good thing.
That temperature difference is massive.
A few years ago I had 6âC for about 10 days, due to gas not being delivered (Calor 47kg bottles here) and though you adapt and acclimatise quick enough, it is not ideal. Was thankful for my fireplace downstairs.
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Dec 10, 2022 10:56:11 GMT
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Good work with the window and curtains...... getting to be nice and cosy!
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Dec 10, 2022 12:04:08 GMT
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Good work with the window and curtains...... getting to be nice and cosy! Thanks phil , doing what i can bit by bit , its about 16c in the sitting room , and 14c in the rest of the house , that's with the rayburn water set at 75c . The rad in the sitting room is around 50 to 60c , i just wear a lot of clothes , and try to work out how to make it work better , i think the rad in the siting room is too small .around 5000 to 6000 btu ,but with a big bay window its losing more heat than a room this size normally would especially with solid walls . where the walls were removed in the big room , there were rads but they were on the walls that went so no rads in the big room and the kitchen . thats this area , which i have now cleared a bit , slightly concerning is the grey pipe in the ceiling looped together ,that used to feed the rad in the big room , does not get warm , it used to ... also the rad in the other bigger bedroom is cold , i wonder if 10mm hep2 piping is more prone to blocking , especially if the system has not been used for ages , however , the water of the heating circuit did come out clean. also , re heating i am wondering if there are bits missing rom the wood burner , like some sort of baffle , at the mo all heat goes straight up the flue .. i did make a board for the big fireplace .. and gabby has now decided to sleep on my bed , which is nice just too black to photograph . funnily enough just as i type this i head the familiar cat sound of wailing anguish , meaning she's either stepped on a nail , or there's a present for me ... mmmm yumm ! kicked her offering across to the back door ,dropped it out of the catflap , and she scooted out and is happily crunching it up . ending as usual with some nice -3c pics of the morning .. regards robert
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,072
Club RR Member Number: 64
Member is Online
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Fun On The Farm.glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Dec 10, 2022 12:44:55 GMT
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Using a smaller bore pipe in a network of piping will alter the flow rates.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Dec 10, 2022 16:31:52 GMT
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I think your correct, the log burner should habve a plate at the top that sits on the back plate and leans against the front, it would be bent at a shallow angle to allow it to just wedge in place. Thats certainly how mine worked anyway.
Regarding the 10mm pipe, unless its a single pipe circuit then generally rads should be capped off rather than looped out as a loop is a low resistance route for water to travel meaning that other parts of the system don't get warm. As you mention this loop is cold it doesn't seem to be causing you an issue but I would then want to know why it wasn't.
Are all the rads that you do have warm? Could the system have any air locks in it? We had issues with one of our heating sytems at work at the start of the week that was down to air where some pipework mods were done the week before, turning the pump to its highest setting moved everything around enough to shift it and we could then bleed the air out.
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Dec 10, 2022 17:11:40 GMT
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Homer , the rads in the house are all warm barring the 2nd big bedroom , and that loop . i have bled them repetitively and used the higher pump speed , also drained the system down . it just has fresh water in i have some fernox to go in , but was waiting till i had the 3 port valve to fit ....and time to fit it . as far as i can tell the system is a simple 22mm hep2 pipe running along the upstarts floor , with 10mm spurs to each rad , then a replica 22mm return . the boiler is a 29 kw output one , so i have the balancing taps down on all the rads bar the sitting room one which only just gets to 17c by 8pm . the log burner is a Champion Bergen , i found a plate on the back .. and i think its missing this .. www.championstoves.com/shop/stove-parts/baffles/bergen-baffle/which is a bummer !
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Dec 10, 2022 19:10:53 GMT
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Aww....Gabbie loves you!
It's an honour to be gifted a mouse, she is thanking you for her home (& food). Re sleeping on the bed, cat's aren't daft - she is using your body heat - ours do it all the time.
I have been told that rads should be approx 70 degrees F (as they will never get a room warmer than they are heated to) I always prefer to fit nice double convectors with a big BTU in a room, if too warm they can always be turned down.
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Dec 10, 2022 20:00:47 GMT
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Aww....Gabbie loves you! It's an honour to be gifted a mouse, she is thanking you for her home (& food). We've always had at least one cat, so I would suggest it's more of a threat: keep opening the tins, or this will happen to you. The cat is too self-absorbed to realise that it can't carry out the threat...
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Dec 10, 2022 21:05:50 GMT
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Homer , the rads in the house are all warm barring the 2nd big bedroom , and that loop . i have bled them repetitively and used the higher pump speed , also drained the system down . it just has fresh water in i have some fernox to go in , but was waiting till i had the 3 port valve to fit ....and time to fit it . as far as i can tell the system is a simple 22mm hep2 pipe running along the upstarts floor , with 10mm spurs to each rad , then a replica 22mm return . the boiler is a 29 kw output one , so i have the balancing taps down on all the rads bar the sitting room one which only just gets to 17c by 8pm . the log burner is a Champion Bergen , i found a plate on the back .. and i think its missing this .. www.championstoves.com/shop/stove-parts/baffles/bergen-baffle/which is a bummer ! Is the boiler running all the time and the radiators continually hot, if so then its as you said and you just need more/bigger rads. If one of the rads isn't warm then you need to turn the others down on the lockshield valve (assuming that you have a TRV on the other end) until it is. This of course assumes that there are no other issues, the general process is to remove all the TRV heads, work out which radiator you think is the longest run/most resistance (the index run) and open all the valves and then slowly turn the valves down starting at the one nearest the boiler until all the radiators are the same temperature.
I'm afraid I don't like being cold so I would be making that a priority but then i'm a bit soft these days compared to my welding up old mini's in the snow days of my youth!
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Boiler is running in short spurts of a few minutes .apart from first thing in the morning then it runs for about 15 m.
rads are always around 50c once warmed up .
no trv's .
the furthest rad is the living room one , that's the rad i think is too small , as mark says, i'd like a double in there ,and its a single .
directly above it is the rad that stays cold . i think there may be a manifold in the floor upstairs with 4 feeds in 10mm hep2 coming off it .
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