Bosch hydraulic accumulator.

Is it not basically the same thing as a Citroen (or even RR) suspension sphere?

Also used in some industrial hydraulic systems for pretty much the same reason as yours.

Ought to work IMO.

Nick

If it's the one's used on Merc suspension systems I wouldn't recommend it, ATF fluid destroys the membrane inside them. They use ZHM OR LHM fluid only.

You might do better to approach it from the industrial angle. You need something with a nitrile membrane or bladder to work with a mineral oil and something where you can either adjust the fill pressure or that has a fill pressure suitable for your system working pressure. IIRC the fill pressure needs to be a bit higher than your system maximum working pressure so you get the maximum working volume / storage from the accumulator. Do you know what the system pressure is?

Nick

Thanks for the replies guys.

Sorry for the slow response.


The front suspension is built up out of much modified Capri front struts with heavy duty billet steel steering arms.

Geometry is completely changed to correct bumpsteer and rollcenter.

Fully rosejointed ( TCA's, compression struts and rollertops )

Custom length TCA's to work with the non stock steering rack W/O bumpsteer.

The rack is a '88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe quick rack

The electric pump is out of a Volvo.


I've read a lot of positive things about the Volvo pumps, but every now and then somebody will mention it will lag behind with fast steering inputs.


While reading up and trying to find more info, I did find out that the T-Bird rack needs more flow than a Mustang rack ( eventhough they look similar at first glance)

Sofar I havent been able to find out if a SVO quick rack is the same as a T-Bird rack, or a regular ( slow ) Mustang rack - flow wise.
( not that it really matters for my car, but I'm just curious )


So the lagging behind with very quick inputs is a known problem with these pumps, and with my car its likely worse because of the T-Bird rack ( and a small 10" steeringwheel, so I am physically able to put in a lot of degrees in a short amount of time )


I started out with all used and junkyard parts.
But there was a problem with the rack, and I replaced that with a brand new one ( ouch ... )

The lines are AN-6, but very long ( about 6' and 6' back...)
I don't know if that matters.

The pump just runs in limp home mode, the way these are usually wired up, without any kind of extra controller.

So I think that means it runs at 80% capacity.



The questions at the beginning of this thread were to see if I could salvage this setup.

But to be honest, I've spent too much time and money on this already.

With very limited success.

And I'm tired of messing with it...



In my internet travels to try and find a solution to the problem ( or even a clear identification of what the problem, and/or the cause of the problem is ), I think I'm better off ripping the electric pump out and put in a conventional engine driven pump.


One of the main attractions for the electric pump ( for me ) was that the front of the engine is really crowded already

And it has a special racing serpentine belt system on it, which I'd hate to modify because of cost and availability.


I'll have to do a bit more checking and ask questions with the suppliers, but I think I have found a combination of parts that should work ( the right press and flow for what the rack needs )
A combination of belts & pulleys that will work on the engine, with that pump & my existing alt and water pump, and in the space that I have ( with some modifications ).
At a somewhat affordable price.

It will be a bit of a project, so its going to take me some time to do.

I'll have to do it in between other stuff.


I'll keep you guys posted as I find out more.

And when I make more progress.



Thanks again...

Your long and narrow lines (-6 ID typically 5/16” /8mm) certainly will not be helping. Potentially some significant pressure drop there.

Are you able to shorten (best) or enlarge?

Nick