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Mar 31, 2022 18:37:35 GMT
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Putting a Saab b234 in an MGB. It's a tall engine so thinking of dry sumping it to reduce the height. There are sumps on ebay so I would just need the rest. I can find much about building your own system. Am I right in thinking I would just need a scavenger pump, a tank, pressure regulator and a way of getting the oil back in the engine?
How do I know what size pump I need?
Anyone done it DIY before?
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Mar 31, 2022 19:33:03 GMT
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How far does the wet sump stick out below the flywheel? If it doesn't, you are not reducing the height ( unless there are chassis clearance problems) All the dry sump pumps I've played with had the press regulator on the pump ( usually adjustable from the outside, which is nice) Most dry sump setups work with a Gilmer belt driven off the crank ( most likely what you'll have to do for a one-off system as well ) And usually the pump has 2 or more stages, one for pressure, the rest for scavenge. The plumbing isn't that complicated. Here is an example.  |
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16grit
Part of things
Posts: 213
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Mar 31, 2022 20:31:53 GMT
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On some engines it's possible to retain the existing oil pump, using this as the pressure side, with suitable plumbing to draw oil from the oil tank into the pump, and then have a twin scavenge only dry sump pump, sucking the oil out of either end of the sump and back to the oil tank etc.
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Thanks, that really helps
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madmog
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,153
Club RR Member Number: 46
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Dry Sump -DIY Kitmadmog
@madmog
Club Retro Rides Member 46
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Apr 16, 2022 12:40:32 GMT
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I don't know if it would give you the clearance but have you investigated the MGC hood? You should be able to get a fibreglass one for less than a rare original.
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Last Edit: Apr 16, 2022 12:43:21 GMT by madmog
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,191
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Dry Sump -DIY KitChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Apr 17, 2022 21:23:21 GMT
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I don't know if it would give you the clearance but have you investigated the MGC hood? You should be able to get a fibreglass one for less than a rare original. If they are like the wings I had from a certain dual name based place, the fit of them is terrible. Stevie Wonder could make a straighter edge without trying. There are enough folks happy with them, but IMHO, if someone is after a factory quality part, they don't come close. The shut lines on my Sebring wings for example were wavy! Tight in some areas, loose in others on the same run of the shut line. But folks will buy them for -The 10 feet look, where they are passable -Cost -Rust removal issues. |
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Last Edit: Apr 17, 2022 21:24:14 GMT by ChasR
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I don't know if it would give you the clearance but have you investigated the MGC hood? You should be able to get a fibreglass one for less than a rare original. Already got an MGC bonnet. The Saab engine is really tall! |
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I don't know if it would give you the clearance but have you investigated the MGC hood? You should be able to get a fibreglass one for less than a rare original. If they are like the wings I had from a certain dual name based place, the fit of them is terrible. Stevie Wonder could make a straighter edge without trying. There are enough folks happy with them, but IMHO, if someone is after a factory quality part, they don't come close. The shut lines on my Sebring wings for example were wavy! Tight in some areas, loose in others on the same run of the shut line. But folks will buy them for -The 10 feet look, where they are passable -Cost -Rust removal issues. Got fibreglass sebring kit. Will need a lot of work to get the shuts acceptable |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,191
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Dry Sump -DIY KitChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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If they are like the wings I had from a certain dual name based place, the fit of them is terrible. Stevie Wonder could make a straighter edge without trying. There are enough folks happy with them, but IMHO, if someone is after a factory quality part, they don't come close. The shut lines on my Sebring wings for example were wavy! Tight in some areas, loose in others on the same run of the shut line. But folks will buy them for -The 10 feet look, where they are passable -Cost -Rust removal issues. Got fibreglass sebring kit. Will need a lot of work to get the shuts acceptable Without detailing this too much, I’d do the Sebring conversion another way, knowing what I know now. Feel free to PM me |
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I expect it's a stretch as I'm presuming you've already got the vertical version of the Saab B, but how about changing it for the canted over version? AFAIK they only came in the 2.0l variety rather than the 2.3, but can still be boosted significantly and had in 16v.
I did read a thread once about a guy stroking a slanted B with the 2.3 crankshaft, but it involved counterweight shaving to clear the crankcase and subsequent heavy metal slugs to rebalance it. Might make for an interesting engine though!
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May 12, 2022 12:20:15 GMT
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I presume you have already looked the wet sump offered by DA Performance?
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Badger
Part of things
Posts: 250
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May 15, 2022 21:17:42 GMT
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A dry sump system can be put together with moderate technical skills, dependent on how much you're doing yourself. There's three main components - the sump, the pump and the tump. I mean tank.
The sump could be fairly easily made by modifying the original; it just has to taper down to a collection point (or a few of them) where the scavenge pump(s) can pick up the oil dropping out the bottom of the engine. No need to hold a great deal of oil, it just needs to drain right. If you're confident welding or know someone who is, this is just a bit of sheet metal work.
The scavenge pump is probably the hardest bit to get right. As the oil will be aerated the pump will likely need to be of the gear-rotor type, and have a much higher capacity than the original oil pump - at least 2-3 times as large I'd have thought. Unless you have machining skills to make a pump or heavily modify existing ones, this is probably best bought. Of course you also need to figure out how to drive the thing...
Some scavenge pumps come with a high pressure one integrated, but as long as the old one is up to the job and the drive is not in the way it's not really necessary.
The tank holds the bulk of your oil, but can't be just a normal catch-can style one - the oil needs to be fed in from the top and run through a series of baffles to de-aerate it. Again, fairly standard sheet metal work there.
As long as the original pump is maintained, the pickup can be modified to exit the new sump and be connected to the tank. Otherwise the new pump needs to be connected to the output of the old pump.
Et voila, simple as rocket surgery!
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